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Arches National Park
IUCN Category II (National Park)
Location	Grand County, Utah, USA
Nearest city	MoabNearest city: Moab
Coordinates	38°41′0″N 109°34′0″W / 38.683333°N 109.566667°W / 38.683333; -109.566667Coordinates: 38°41′0″N 109°34′0″W / 38.683333°N 109.566667°W / 38.683333; -109.566667
Area	76,358.98 acres (30,901.38 ha) (federal: 76,193.01 acres/30,834.22 ha)
Established	April 12, 1929, as National Monument Established: April 12, 1929, as National Monument
Visitors	860,181 (in 2007)
Governing body	National Park Service

Arches National Park is a U.S. National Park in eastern Utah. It is known for preserving over 2000 natural sandstone arches, including the world-famous Delicate Arch, in addition to a variety of unique geological resources and formations.

The park is located near Moab, Utah, and is 119 square miles (310 km²) in size. Its highest elevation is 5,653 feet (1,723 m) at Elephant Butte, and its lowest elevation is 4,085 feet (1,245 m) at the visitor center. Since 1970, forty-three arches have toppled because of erosion. The park receives 10 inches (250 mm) of rain a year on average.

The area, administered by the National Park Service, was originally designated as a national monument on April 12, 1929. It was redesignated a national park on November 12, 1971.

Geology

Map of Arches National Park

The Organ is an impressive "sandstone fin"

The national park lies atop an underground evaporite layer or salt bed, which is the main cause of the formation of the arches, spires, balanced rocks, sandstone fins, and eroded monoliths in the area. This salt bed is thousands of feet thick in places, and was deposited in the Paradox Basin of the Colorado Plateau some 300 million years ago when a sea flowed into the region and eventually evaporated. Over millions of years, the salt bed was covered with debris eroded from the Uncompahgre Uplift to the northeast. During the Early Jurassic (about 210 Ma) desert conditions prevailed in the region and the vast Navajo Sandstone was deposited. An additional sequence of stream laid and windblown sediments, the Entrada Sandstone (about 140 Ma), was deposited on top of the Navajo. Over 5000 feet (1500 m) of younger sediments were deposited and have been mostly eroded away. Remnants of the cover exist in the area including exposures of the Cretaceous Mancos Shale. The arches of the area are developed mostly within the Entrada formation.^[1]

The weight of this cover caused the salt bed below it to liquefy and thrust up layers of rock into salt domes. The evaporites of the area formed more unusual salt anticlines or linear regions of uplift.^[1] Faulting occurred and whole sections of rock subsided into the areas between the domes. In some places, they turned almost on edge. The result of one such 2,500-foot (760 m) displacement, the Moab Fault, is seen from the visitor center.

As this subsurface movement of salt shaped the landscape, erosion removed the younger rock layers from the surface. Except for isolated remnants, the major formations visible in the park today are the salmon-colored Entrada Sandstone, in which most of the arches form, and the buff-colored Navajo Sandstone. These are visible in layer cake fashion throughout most of the park. Over time, water seeped into the surface cracks, joints, and folds of these layers. Ice formed in the fissures, expanding and putting pressure on surrounding rock, breaking off bits and pieces. Winds later cleaned out the loose particles. A series of free-standing fins remained. Wind and water attacked these fins until, in some, the cementing material gave way and chunks of rock tumbled out. Many damaged fins collapsed. Others, with the right degree of hardness and balance, survived despite their missing sections. These became the famous arches.

Long panorama of the 'Parade of Elephants' section of the park

Climate

Temperatures in Arches National Park vary by month, as does the precipitation. Generally, the hottest month is July. The coolest month is January. October sees the most precipitation in the park. Snow is not an uncommon thing to see during the winter months.

History

Ute Petroglyphs in Arches National Park

Humans have occupied the region since the last ice age 10,000 years ago. Fremont people and Ancient Pueblo People lived in the area up until about 700 years ago. Spanish missionaries encountered Ute and Paiute tribes in the area when they first came through in 1775, but the first European-Americans to attempt settlement in the area were the Mormon Elk Mountain Mission in 1855, who soon abandoned the area. Ranchers, farmers, and prospectors later settled Moab in the neighboring Riverine Valley in the 1880s. Word of the beauty in the surrounding rock formations spread beyond the settlement as a possible tourist destination.

The Arches area was first brought to the attention of the National Park Service by Frank A. Wadleigh, passenger traffic manager of the Denver and Rio Grande Western Railroad. Wadleigh, accompanied by railroad photographer George L. Beam, visited the area in September 1923 at the invitation of Alexander Ringhoffer, a Hungarian-born prospector living in Salt Valley. Ringhoffer had written to the railroad in an effort to interest them in the tourist potential of a scenic area he had discovered the previous year with his two sons and a son-in-law, which he called the "Devil's Garden" (known today as the "Klondike Bluffs"). Wadleigh was impressed by what Ringhoffer showed him, and suggested to Park Service director Stephen T. Mather that the area be made a national monument.

The following year additional support for the monument idea came from Laurence Gould, a University of Michigan graduate student (and future polar explorer) studying the geology of the nearby La Sal Mountains, who was shown the scenic area by retired local physician Dr. J.W. "Doc" Williams.

A panoramic view of sandstone fins of the Fiery Furnace

A panoramic view of Tower of Babel

A succession of government investigators examined the area, in part due to confusion as to the precise location. In the process the name "Devil's Garden" was transposed to an area on the opposite side of Salt Valley, and Ringhoffer's original discovery was omitted, while another area nearby, known locally as "The Windows", was included. Designation of the area as a national monument was supported by the Park Service from 1926, but was resisted by President Calvin Coolidge's Interior Secretary, Hubert Work. Finally in April 1929, shortly after his inauguration, President Herbert Hoover signed a presidential proclamation creating Arches National Monument, consisting of two comparatively small, disconnected sections. The purpose of the reservation under the 1906 Antiquities Act was to protect the arches, spires, balanced rocks, and other sandstone formations for their scientific and educational value. The name "Arches" was suggested by Frank Pinkely, superintendent of the Park Service's southwestern national monuments, following a visit to the Windows section in 1925.

In late 1938, President Franklin D. Roosevelt signed a proclamation which enlarged Arches to protect additional scenic features and permit development of facilities to promote tourism. A small adjustment was made by President Dwight Eisenhower in 1960 to accommodate a new road alignment.

In early 1969, just before leaving office, President Lyndon B. Johnson signed a proclamation substantially enlarging Arches. Two years later, President Richard Nixon signed legislation enacted by Congress which significantly reduced the total area enclosed, but changed its status to a National Park.

Recreational activities

The Three Gossips

Climbing of named arches within the park has long been banned by park regulations. However, following a successful free climb of Delicate Arch by Dean Potter in May 2006, the wording of the regulations was deemed unenforceable by the park attorney. In response, the park revised its regulations as follows:

"All rock climbing or similar activities on any arch or natural bridge named on the United States Geological Survey 7.5 minute topographical maps covering Arches National Park are prohibited."^[3]

Climbing of other features in the park is allowed, but regulated. The revised regulations also prohibit slacklining parkwide. Approved recreational activities include auto touring, backpacking, biking, camping, and hiking, some of which require permits. There are also guided commercial tours and ranger programs.

Publicity

American writer Edward Abbey was a park ranger at Arches National Monument where he kept journals that became his book Desert Solitaire. The success of this book, as well as the rise in adventure-based recreation, has drawn many hikers, mountain-bikers, and off-road enthusiasts to the area, but activities are limited within park boundaries: camping, foot hiking (along designated trails), and driving only along marked roads.

Biology

The Western collared lizard

There is an abundance of wildlife in Arches. The list includes: spadefoot toad, scrub jay, peregrine falcon, many kinds of sparrows, red Fox, desert bighorn sheep, kangaroo rat, mule Deer, mountain lion, midget faded rattlesnake, yucca moth, many types of cyanobacteria, Western rattlesnake, and the Western collared lizard.

Plants also dominate the landscape in the park. The list of plants includes: prickly pear cactus, Indian ricegrass, bunch grasses, cheatgrass, lichen, moss, liverworts, Utah juniper, Mormon tea, blackbrush, cliffrose, four-winged saltbrush, pinyon pine, stemless woollybase, evening primrose, sand verbena, yucca, and sacred datura.

Features

Among the notable features of the park are:

• Balanced Rock — a large balancing rock, the size of three school buses
• Courthouse Towers — a collection of tall stone columns
• Dark Angel — a free-standing 150 foot tall sandstone pillar at the end of the Devil's Garden trail
• Delicate Arch — a lone-standing arch which has become a symbol of Utah
• Devil's Garden — with many arches and columns scattered along a ridge
• Double Arch — two arches that share a common end
• Fiery Furnace — an area of maze-like narrow passages and tall rock columns (see biblical reference Fiery Furnace)
• Landscape Arch — a very thin, very long arch over 300 feet (100 m); the largest in the world
• Petrified dunes — petrified remnants of sand dunes blown from the ancient lakes that covered the area.
• Wall Arch —located along the popular Devils Garden Trail. Collapsed sometime on August 4-5, 2008^[4]

The Double Arch	Balanced Rock	Skyline Arch	Double O Arch
The Delicate Arch from another arch	Delicate Arch, one of the most famous arches in the park	Landscape Arch	Balanced Rock During Winter
Dark Angel

See also

• Rainbow Bridge National Monument

References

• The National Parks: Index 2001–2003. Washington: U.S. Department of the Interior.

External links

North America portal

• Media related to Arches National Park at Wikimedia Commons
• Arches National Park official site
• Arches National Park travel guide from Wikitravel

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From Wikitravel

Delicate Arch

Arches National Park [1] is a United States National Park that is in Utah's Canyon Country near the town of Moab. It is home to the world's greatest concentration of natural arches, including the famous Delicate Arch that was seen all over the world during the 2002 Salt Lake City Winter Olympics.

Understand

Arches National Park preserves over 2,000 natural sandstone arches. This area contains the largest concentration of arches found any where in the world, including the world-famous Delicate Arch as seen on the Utah state license plate, in addition to a variety of unique geological resources and formations. In some areas, faulting has exposed millions of years of geologic history.The extraordinary features of the park, including balanced rocks, fins and pinnacles, are highlighted by a striking environment of contrasting colors, landforms and textures.

History

Throughout the park, rock layers reveal millions of years of deposition, erosion and other geologic events. These layers continue to shape life in Arches today, as their erosion influences elemental features like soil chemistry and where water flows when it rains. Arches is in a "high desert," with elevations ranging from 4,085 to 5,653 feet above sea level.

In 1923 Alexander Ringhoffer, a prospector, wrote the Rio Grande Western Railroad in an effort to publicize the area and gain support for creating a national park. Ringhoffer led railroad executives interested in attracting more rail passengers into the formations; they were impressed, and the campaign began. The government sent research teams to investigate and gather evidence. In 1929, President Herbert Hoover signed the legislation creating Arches National Monument, to protect the arches, spires, balanced rocks, and other sandstone formations. In 1971 Congress changed the status of Arches to a National Park, recognizing over 10,000 years of cultural history that flourished in this now famous landscape of sandstone arches and canyons.

Landscape

To many, the most outstanding natural features of Arches are the park's geologic formations. Over 2,000 catalogued arches range in size from a three-foot opening (the minimum considered to be an arch), to Landscape Arch which measures 306 feet from base to base. Towering spires, fins and balanced rocks complement the arches, creating a remarkable assortment of landforms in a relatively small area.

Two unusual natural features common in Arches intrigue both scientists and visitors: cryptobiotic soil and potholes. Cryptobiotic soil is a living groundcover that forms the foundation of high desert plant life.

Potholes are naturally occurring basins or pools in sandstone that collect rainwater and wind-blown sediment. These potholes harbor organisms that are able to survive long periods of dehydration, and also serve as a breeding ground for many desert amphibians and insects. Both of these communities are very vulnerable to human impacts.

Flora and fauna

The plants and animals in Arches have many adaptations that enable them to survive these conditions. Some species are found only in this area. The diversity of organisms reflects the variety of available habitat, which includes lush riparian areas, ephemeral pools, dry arroyos, mixed grasslands and large expanses of bare rock.

Generally, the trees of Arches grow small and far away from each other. However, mixed stands of Pinyon pine and Utah Juniper, two trees that thrive in dry, rocky environments, can be found throughout the park. In Arches, there is more tree diversity in riparian environments where there is plenty of water. In such locales, trees such as netleaf hackberry, box elder, and Fremont's cottonwood can be found. Nine species of cacti can be found in the park, as well as many types of desert wildflowers and shrubs.

Nearly 50 species of mammals can be found in Arches National Park. Among the more commonly sighted mammals are mule deer, desert bighorn sheep, desert cottontail rabbit, and kangaroo rat. Other large mammals, such as the mountain lion, are present but rarely spotted.

Although Arches National Park is not a birding hot spot, 273 species of birds have been spotted in the park. Species such as Spotted Towhee and Canyon Wren can be found near water in spring and summer. In drier grasslands and pinyon-juniper woodlands of the park, Say's Phoebe, Black-throated Sparrow, Western Meadowlark, Juniper Titmouse, Pinyon and Scrub Jays, and Lucy's and Black-throated Gray Warblers are present. Common Raven will likely be seen by nearly all visitors, and can be spotted throughout the park. Cooper's Hawk and Turkey Vulture are among the birds of prey that glide above Arches' desert landscape.

Arches is home to many reptiles as well. These include 10 species of lizards and 9 types of snakes. Venomous rattlesnakes are present, but are reluctant to attack, so use common sense and caution when observing them.

Climate

Southeast Utah is part of the Colorado Plateau, a "high desert" region that experiences wide temperature fluctuations, sometimes over 40 °F (22 °C) in a single day. The temperate (and most popular) seasons are spring (April through May) and fall (mid-September through October), when daytime highs average 60 to 80°F (15 to 27°C) and lows average 30 to 50°F (-1 to +10°C).

Summer temperatures often exceed 100°F (38°C), making strenuous exercise difficult. Late summer monsoon season brings violent storm cells which often cause flash floods.

Winters are cold, with highs averaging 30 to 50°F (-1°C to +10°C), and lows averaging 0 to 20°F (-18 to -7°C). Though large snowfalls are uncommon (except in nearby mountains), even small amounts of snow or ice can make local trails and roads impassable.

Local weather conditions and forecasts are available by phone at (801) 524-5133.

Precautions Before You Visit

Stay on the path: Throughout the park and the Southwestern national parks, you will see warnings about Cryptobiological soil. Foot prints erode the soil and destroy years of growth.

Leave your dog at home: . As the climate indicates, there is extreme heat in the summers. Perhaps more importantly, the environment is not supportive of domesticated pets. There are reasons that there are still 1000 year old corn cobs in archeological sites, items do not deteriorate like they might in your back yard. Cactus and Fido do not make for good bedfellows.

Leave only your footprints, take only photographs: Do not take rocks or any other type of souvenier from the park. Allow your grandchildren's grandchildren to see the park as you see it when you visit it. Throughout the southwest, you will walk right next to archeological sites. These are rapidly disappearing as people take just one little thing back home.

Get in

By plane

Moab's Canyonland Field Airport [2] has daily service to Denver on Great Lakes Airlines.

The closest major airport is Salt Lake City International Airport [3] about a 4 hour drive away by way of Interstate 15 and US Highway 6/191.

The next closest airport is Denver International Airport [4] about 5 hours 45 minutes via Interstate 70.

By car

The entrance to Arches National Park is located 5 miles north of Moab along US Highway 191.

By bus

Most visitors see Arches National Park on their own, driving automobiles, riding bikes or hiking. However, there are a few privately operated tour companies authorized by the National Park Service to provide visitors with guided trips into the park:

• Canyonlands Tours/North American River Expeditions, 543 N. Main, PO Box 1107, Moab, UT 84532, Ph: (800) 342-5938.
• Desert Highlights, 50 East Center St., PO Box 1342, Moab, UT 84532, Ph: (800) 747-1342.
• NAVTEC Expeditions, 321 N. Main St., Moab, UT 84532, Ph: (800) 833-1278.
• Moab Adventure Center [5], 225 S Main Street, Moab, UT 84532, Ph: (888) 622-4097.

• Tag-A-Long Expeditions [6], 452 N. Main Street, Moab, UT 84532, Ph: (800) 453-3292.

Fees/Permits

Park entrance fees are $10 for private vehicles and $5 for individuals on foot, bike, or motorcycle. These fees allow entrance for seven days. Alternatively, the $85 Multi-Agency pass allows entry pass, amongst others, to all national park areas for one year. It also allows entrance to parks of other agencies. The $50 National Park Pass, which allowed entry to all national park areas for one year was discontinued by the national parks service in 2007. If the entrance booth is not manned, there is an electronic kiosk to pay the entrance fee and receive a receipt to place on your vehicle's dashboard.

Get around

By car

A car is the most common way of exploring the park; most visitors will drive to sites and then take short walks to view the amazing geologic formations of the park. There are several four-wheel drive roads in the park's backcountry that may appeal to those with appropriate vehicles.

By foot

There are numerous trails throughout the park, providing an alternative means of travel for those not wanting to spoil the nature experience with a vehicle. Hiking at or around sunrise (5-6 am) can provide a less crowded experience and easier parking.

By bike

Although the summer heat can make a bike a masochistic way of viewing the park, in cooler months it can be a popular option. Though there are no bike lanes and traffic can be heavy at times, biking the scenic drive is a great way to see the park. The Salt Valley and Willow Springs roads are less traveled but are more suited to mountain bikes due to washboards, deep sand and other obstacles. Bicycles are only permitted on roads: there is no single track or trail riding in the park. When biking on the main road, please use caution and ride single file on the edge of the lane.

• Park Avenue. A relatively easy one mile (one-way) trail located near the park entrance. The trail leads through through a steep-walled sandstone canyon with a smooth bottom. Many hikers will get dropped off at one end of the trail and picked up at the other to eliminate the need for a round-trip.

Park Avenue in the morning sun

• Double Arch. A 0.8 mile roundtrip leads to Double Arch, a massive joining of two arches that will be recognizable from the beginning of the movie Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade. The trail is very easy and located within walking distance of the Windows.
• Windows. The North & South Windows, as well as Turret Arch, are located along an easy 1.0 mile roundtrip trail.
• Wolfe Ranch. Located near the beginning of the Delicate Arch trail, this ranch is a restored homestead of John Wesley Wolfe, who settled in the area in the late 1800s.
• Delicate Arch. The most famous arch in the park (and perhaps in the world), Delicate Arch can be seen from a roadside turnout, from a short 0.8 mile trail, or you can take the 3.0 mile (roundtrip) trail starting from Wolfe's Ranch, gaining 480 feet of elevation, and stand underneath this natural wonder. The trail to the arch is strenuous; be sure to carry adequate water with you. Note that during peak season you are likely to be sharing the trail with many people; visiting at sunrise provides the best chance of solitude, while sunset offers the best photography.
• Petrified Dunes. An overlook of the petrified dunes lies just off of the park road between the Courthouse Towers and the Windows Area. These colorful formations are ancient sand dunes, hardened into stone as additional layers built up on top of them and were later eroded away.
• Fiery Furnace. The Fiery Furnace area is accessible only on ranger-led tours, which can be reserved at the visitor center. The tour leads through a maze of sandstone fins, showcasing one of the most interesting geologic areas in the park. A fee is charged for this tour and tours often sell out quickly, so trips should be booked as early as possible.
• Devil's Garden Trail. Devil's Garden is a series of sandstone fissures that are home to Landscape Arch (the park's largest), Double O Arch, and numerous others. A series of trails lead to the arches, with Landscape Arch only a 1.6 mile roundtrip from the trailhead, while Double O Arch is a more strenuous 4.2 mile roundtrip. Sadly, Wall Arch, once one of the most photographed arches in the park, is no more, having collapsed in August 2008.
• Klondike Bluffs. Visited by only a very small fraction of the park's tourists, Klondike Bluffs is in the northwest corner of the park and is accessible only by a dirt road or on foot. Tower Arch is located down a short trail, as is the formation known as the Marching Men.

• Hiking. The park offers numerous short trails (see above) ranging in difficulty from very easy to moderate.
• Photography. The park is a photographer's paradise with reddish brown rocks, distant snow-covered mountains, and fantastic rock formations. As with most places, light can be harsh during the day, so it is best to have the camera ready during the early morning hours and late evening hours. Delicate Arch and the Windows are best photographed at sunset, while the light on Landscape Arch and Double Arch is best near sunrise.
• Rock climbing. Climbing is not allowed on most features named on USGS maps, but is allowed on other formations.
• Backpacking. Limited water supplies and a lack of true backcountry trails limit the appeal of backpacking in the park, although backcountry use is allowed. Inquire at the visitor center for details.
• Wildlife Viewing. Almost 50 species of mammal are known to live in Arches. Some, like desert cottontails, kangaroo rats and mule deer, are common and may be seen by a majority of visitors. However, many desert animals are inactive during daylight hours or are wary of humans, so sightings can be truly special events. Tracks and scat are the most common signs of an animal’s presence. [7]

Buy

There is a cooperating association sales outlet in the visitor center that offers books, maps, postcards, posters, and a variety of other educational and interpretive items. For a larger selection, the town of Moab has everything necessary to satisfy your shopping needs.

Eat

There is no food available within the park. There is a water fountain at the parking area near the Devil's Garden Trailhead. The nearby town of Moab offers a vast number of restaurants, convenience stores, and grocery stores.

Sleep

Lodging

There is no lodging within the park, although the nearby town of Moab has an enormous number of hotels to choose from.

Camping

There is only one campground within the park, and reservations are highly recommended. Outside of the park the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) operates several campsites (see [8]).

• Devil's Garden Campground. Located at the end of the park road, this campground has 52 individuals sites and two group sites. Water and flush toilets are available. Costs per site is $10 per night. Between March 1 and October 31 up to 28 individual sites may be reserved. Reservations can be made no less than 4 days and no more than 240 days in advance from www.reserveusa.com [9] or by calling NRRS at 877-444-6777. There is an additional $9 fee for reservations. The remaining 24 sites are first-come-first-served and will be taken shortly after the park opens each day; stop at the visitor center when it opens at 7:30 for the best chance at a site.

Backcountry

Arches is a relatively small park, with very few areas far enough from roads to qualify as backcountry. Outside the developed areas there are no designated trails, campsites, or reliable water sources.

In order to backpack in Arches, you must obtain a free backcountry permit at the visitor center. The maximum group size is twelve, but smaller groups are strongly recommended to reduce impacts. Permits may not be reserved in advance. Backpackers should know how to navigate with a topographic map, recognize safety hazards and practice low-impact camping specific to the high desert. Primary safety considerations include steep terrain, loose rock, lightning, flash floods, and dehydration.

Pets may not accompany groups in the backcountry.

Stay safe

Summer temperatures can reach or exceed 110°F (43°C), so it is important to carry (and consume) enough liquid to keep you hydrated. One gallon of water per person per day is recommended. When hiking on open rocky areas, be aware that lightning is a danger during storms. Also, the dry sandstone-dominated terrain is susceptible to flash floods during thunderstorms. The most intense thunderstorms occur from July through September, during monsoon season.

Many of the formations within the park are sandstone and can easily crumble when climbing. Numerous individuals must be rescued each year after they scale a formation and then discover that they cannot easily get back down; know your limitations, and be aware that it is usually easier to climb up a formation than it is to climb back down.

• Canyonlands National Park