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A U V I L L A R
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Auvillar is situated in south-west France, in the department (county) of Tarn et Garonne, which itself is part of the Midi-Pyrenees region of France. Auvillar is between the large cities of Toulouse (80 kms) and Bordeaux (140 kms), by the southern (left) bank of the River Garonne, on its long passage from the Spanish Pyrenees to its wide mouth above Bordeaux. By the time the river reaches Auvillar, it has already travelled over 300 kms and it about 100 metres wide. It has a further 150 kms to flow before it meets the Atlantic Ocean. In the past, the valley of the Garonne has flooded, leaving it very fertile and allowing good cultivation for a variety of crops on the alluvial plain. Auvillar is close to the towns of Valence d’Agen (5kms) and Moissac (15 kms), but these are both on the northern side of the river. The river, after Moissac, turns sharply west and this is one of 2 large curves in which the land between is known as the Gascon Plain. Auvillar itself is a hilltop village, but with a separate quarter of a port nestling under the village adjoining the river.



Then and Now
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It is known that Auvillar was the site of an ancient community and was possibly rebuilt in Roman times. If it were possible to excavate beneath the site of the old castle (which belonged to the Earls of Armagnac), one could possibly find the original village, the remains of a Gallic “Oppidum”. It is known that this old site had been a monument of the Gallo-Roman period and the Middle Ages. We know that Auvillar existed during the period when the Romans were masters of Gaul. A roman road, probably one that connected Toulouse to Agen, passes by Auvillar. Fragments of mosaics have been found locally and old engravings uncovered.

Under the auspices of the local nobility in the Middle Ages the village of Auvillar played a more important part than in earlier times. Proof of this is found in debris from civil construction and in religious buildings. Towers and bastions strengthened the walls of the village. One of these towers was knocked down by the order of the Revolutionaries in 1794 and the last bastion was demolished in 1839.

Auvillar has always been a magnet to artists. During the 12th century, Macabrun, a poet and a musician, was born and lived in Auvillar. Most of the well-known troubadors at that time were noblemen, but Macabrun was not an aristocrat. Nevertheless, many people admired his humour and strived to imitate the literary techniques and the art of this famous Gascon. More recently, when the “Felibres” were active and well known, a number of Occitan poets lived in Auvillar, for instance, the blacksmith who hoped to provide his readers with “Lou pau d’or qu’ey dins la pensado” (Elie Pimpeterre 1872-1945). Until the beginning of the 20th century the “Macabrun School” participated in Occitan intellectual life.

More recently, the elaborately decorated ceramics of Auvillar were another important part of a long tradition. The very attractive artefacts and artistic objects were still being produced during the 19th century. A remarkable collection of ceramics made in Auvillar during the 18th and 19th centuries is to be found in the Auvillar Museum of Art. Today, Auvillar is still a very attractive village for artists looking for inspiration. Painters like to spend awhile quietly appreciating the calm and serenity of the village.

Nowadays, during the summer months in particular, the village sees the pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compestella in Northern Spain, to pay their homage to Saint Jacques. The route of these pilgrims is lengthy (starting from many places in Europe) and many people return each year to walk a further length of the route, until they eventually complete. Most pilgrims walk, but some ride horses, some with mules, even one with a camel. There is a ‘gite’ available for the pilgrims in the village and a surprising amount of pilgrims return to the village later in order to enjoy the ambience of Auvillar for another time.



Artistic Links
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Currently the village of Auvillar has a creative, acclaimed and well-respected potter in residence, with some work normally on display most days. There is also a large gallery housing a syndicate of 7 different artists, mainly painters, but including sculptors, in the centre of the village. In the quarter of Le Port there is a workshop and gallery of the Moulin a Nef, which is used now by artists sponsored by the Virginia Centre for the Creative Arts (VCCA) in USA. In addition, there are many artists from other countries often in residence. These artists are often invited to stay in accommodation provided by the village. During the summer you could encounter French artists, German musicians and singers or American painters, sculptors and musicians all staying locally.
By no means least, mention needs also be made of our resident calligrapher and letter-engraver whose work in stone, as well as other materials, is recognised as outstanding : Bruno Riboulot.

“Viens Peindre Auvillar” (Come to paint Auvillar) is the name of an important artistic event that takes place over a weekend at the end of July. The event, now over 10 years old, continues to grow and has become an International Festival of painting. It is a competition open to both professional and amateur painters.


Cultural Exchanges
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Every year cultural exchange programmes occur between Auvillar and other French towns, and also with foreign countries; mainly Germany and the USA.


Auvillar Inhabitants
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The people of Auvillar (‘Auvillarais’) are well known for their hospitality. They like to welcome tourists and any visitors. There are now more than 20 official organisations, each dedicated to the promotion of a special festivity or a particular leisure pastime. To obtain a list of these organisations contact: Office du Tourisme, Place de la Halle, 82340 Auvillar, tel. 05 63 39 89 82, or through [1488]. Alternatively, contact; Intersociete Auvillaraise, Le Senat, 82340 Auvillar, tel. 05 63 29 20 06.


In particular, the following organisations have become well known well beyond the bounds of Auvillar and deserve a special mention.

The Friends of Old Auvillar. (Les Amis du Vieil Auvillar) are responsible for a number of excellent artistic and cultural events. A special page is dedicated to the subject: Auvillar, City of the Arts. (Find this at the end of this article.)

The Brulhois Dancers. (Les Danseuses du Brulhois) comprise of about 30 amateurs. Their aim is to keep alive not only the folklore traditions of music, songs and dances, but also the Occitan language and culture. They perform throughout France, other European countries and abroad. In recent times they have given performances in Ireland, Canada and the USA. Their contact is; Les Danseuses du Brulhois, Cave Co-operative du Canton d’Auvillar, 82340 Donzac.
Saint-Noe



WINE
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Auvillar is within the wine growing area of the Cotes du Brulhois. Brulhois is well known for its red and rose wines, with an ever growing and deserved good reputation. Try them and you may be pleasantly surprised. You can taste the wines at the Cave and at the local independent growers. Contact; Cotes du Brulhois, Cave de Donzac, 82340 Donzac, or www.brulhois.com


THE PORT OF AUVILLAR
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Until the middle of the 19th century the River Garonne was navigable from Bordeaux and was used to transport salt from the sea, and wine and grain to the sea. It also provided the means of personal transport. It is thought that the original harbour of the Port at Auvillar was tolled as it is known that tolls were collected there in 1204. By the year 1789 there were still 49 sailors’ families living in Auvillar. These mariners were professionals operating the barges or boats (batellerie) on the river. They were known to be energetic and daring, with an excellent knowledge of the often difficult river and they were justifiably proud of the prestige bestowed upon them. A motto commonly attributed to them was: “Although a villain on the land, on the water I am a Lord”. They spent 12 to 16 hours at work on the water, and then retired to a tavern for the night. Le Port at Auvillar was well supported by the mariners, as it was a compulsory stop because of the tolls.


THE CHAPEL OF SAINT CATHERINE AT LE PORT
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The mariners were also religious people, having their own church or chapel in almost every harbour. Almost all of these were dedicated to Saint Catherine who was regarded as the patron saint of the river people, as well as philosophers. In Le Port, you can still find the chapel of Saint Catherine, although unfortunately it is in a state of disrepair.