From Wikitravel
- Chicago is a huge city with several district articles containing sightseeing, restaurant,
nightlife and accommodation listings — consider printing them
all.
Chicago's skyline viewed from Millennium Park
Chicago [1] is the home of the blues
and the truth of jazz, the heart of comedy and the idea of the
skyscraper. Here, the age of railroads found its center, and
airplanes followed suit. Butcher of hogs and believer in progress,
it is one of the world's great cities, and yet the metropolitan
luxuries of theater, shopping, and fine dining have barely put a
dent in real Midwestern friendliness. It's a city with a swagger,
but without the surliness or even the fake smiles found in other
cities of its size.
As the hub of the
Midwest, Chicago is
easy to find — its picturesque
skyline calls across the waters
of Lake Michigan, a first impression that soon reveals world-class
museums of art and science, miles of sandy beaches, huge parks and
public art, and
perhaps the finest downtown collection of modern architecture in
the world.
With a wealth of iconic sights and neighborhoods to explore,
there's enough to fill a visit of days, weeks, or even months
without ever seeing the end. Dress warm in the winter, and prepare
to cover a lot of ground: the meaning of Chicago is only found in
movement, through subways and archaic elevated tracks, in the pride
of tired feet and eyes raised once more to the sky.
Districts
Many visitors never make it past the attractions downtown, but
you haven't truly seen Chicago until you have ventured out into the
neighborhoods. Chicagoans understand their city by splitting it
into large "sides" to the north, west, and south of the central
business district (the Loop). Chicagoans also tend to identify
strongly with their neighborhood, reflecting real differences in
culture and place throughout the city. Rivalries between the North
and South Sides run particularly deep, while people from the West
Side are free agents in critical issues like baseball loyalty.
|
Downtown (The Loop, Near North, Near
South)
The center of Chicago for work and play, with shopping,
skyscrapers, big theaters, and the city's most famous travel
sights |
|
North Side (Lakeview, Boystown, Lincoln Park, Old Town)
Upscale neighborhoods with entertainment aplenty in storefront
theaters and the Friendly Confines of Wrigley Field, along with a
ton of bars and clubs, and one of the largest LGBT
communities in the nation |
|
Far North Side (Uptown, Lincoln Square, Rogers
Park)
Ultra-hip and laid-back, with miles of beaches and some of the most
vibrant immigrant communities in the country |
|
Southwest Side (Back
of the Yards, Marquette Park, Midway)
Former home to the massive meatpacking district of the Union
Stockyards, huge Polish and Mexican neighborhoods, and Midway
Airport |
|
Far Southwest Side (Beverly, Mount Greenwood)
Ireland in Chicago: authentic Irish pubs, brogues, galleries, and
the odd haunted castle, all extremely far from the city center |
Understand
Chicago was known as a fine place to find a
wild
onion if you were a member of the Potawatomi tribe, who
lived in this area of
Illinois before European settlers arrived. It
was mostly swamps, prairie and mud long past the establishment of
Fort Dearborn in 1803 and incorporation as a town in 1833. It could
be argued that nature never intended for there to be a city here;
brutal winters aside, it took civil engineering projects of
unprecedented scale to establish working sewers, reverse the flow
of the river to keep it out of the city's drinking supply, and stop
buildings from sinking back into the swamps — and that was just the
first few decades.
By 1871, the reckless growth of the city was a sight to behold,
full of noise, Gothic lunacy, and bustling commerce. But on October
8th, Mrs. O'Leary's cow reportedly knocked over a lantern in the
crowded immigrant quarters in the West Side, and the
Great
Chicago Fire began. It quickly spread through the dry
prairie, killing 300 and destroying virtually the entire city. The
stone Water Tower in the
Near North is the most famous
surviving structure. But the city seized this destruction as an
opportunity to rebuild bigger than before, giving canvas for
several architects and urban planners who would go on to become
legends of modern architecture.
At the pinnacle of its rebirth and the height of its newfound
powers, Chicago was known as The White City.
Cultures from around the world were summoned to the 1893 World's
Colombian Exposition, to bear witness to the work of Louis
Sullivan, Daniel Burnham, and the future itself. Cream of Wheat,
soft drinks, street lights and safe electricity, the fax machine,
and the Ferris Wheel bespoke the colossus now resident on the
shores of Lake Michigan.
As every road had once led to Rome, every train led to Chicago.
Carl Sandburg called Chicago the Hog Butcher for the
World for its cattle stockyards and place on the nation's
dinner plate. Sandburg also called it the City of the Big
Shoulders, noting the tall buildings in the birthplace of
the skyscraper — and the city's "lifted head singing so proud to be
alive and coarse and strong and cunning." But Chicago is a city in
no short supply of nicknames. Fred Fisher's 1922 song (best known
in Frank Sinatra's rendition) calls it That Toddlin'
Town, where "on State Street, that great street, they do
things they don't do on Broadway." It's also referenced by
countless blues standards like Sweet Home
Chicago.
Chicago is also known as
The Second City, which
refers to its rebuilding after the fire — the current city is
literally the second Chicago, after the one that disappeared in
1871. It can also refer to the city's long-held position as the
United States' second largest city, after
New York City, although it has since been
surpassed in population by
Los Angeles. And many know the nickname
from Chicago's great comedy theater in
Old Town.
Chicago's history with corruption is legendary. During the
Prohibition era, Chicago's criminal world, emblemized by names like
Al Capone, Baby Face Nelson, and later Sam Giancana, practically
ran the city. The local political world had scarcely more
legitimacy in a town where voter turnout was highest among the dead
and their pets, and precinct captains spread the word to "vote
early, vote often." Even Sandburg acknowledged the relentless
current of vice than ran under the surface of the optimistic
city.
Today, Chicago is known as
The Windy City.
Walking around town, you might suspect that Chicago got this
nickname from the winds off Lake Michigan, which shove through the
downtown corridors with intense force. But the true origin of the
saying comes from politics. Some say it may have been coined by
rivals like
Cincinnati
and New York as a derogatory reference to the Chicagoan habit of
rabid boosterism and endless political conventions. Others say that
the term originated from the fact that Chicago politicians change
their minds as "often as the wind."
Finally, the city is known as the The City That
Works, as promoted by current Mayor Richard M. Daley,
which refers to Chicago's labor tradition and the long hours worked
by its residents, its willingness to tackle grand civic projects
and to make fortunes for a lucky few. Daley and his father, former
Mayor Richard J. Daley, have ruled the city for decades in what can
only be described as a benevolent dictatorship. The Daleys kept
Chicago pre-eminent through decades when other Midwestern
manufacturing cities went into decline, transforming it from a city
of stockyards and factories to a financial giant at the forefront
of modern urban design. It's not democracy, but it has worked
pretty well for most (and not as well for a few others).
While the city has many great attractions downtown, most
Chicagoans live and play outside of the central business district.
To understand Chicago, travelers must venture away from the Loop
and Michigan Avenue and out into the vibrant neighborhoods, to soak
up the local nightlife, sample the wide range of fantastic dining,
and see the sights Chicagoans care about most — thanks to the
city's massive public transit system, every part of Chicago is only
slightly off the most beaten path.
|
Climate |
Jan |
Feb |
Mar |
Apr |
May |
Jun |
Jul |
Aug |
Sep |
Oct |
Nov |
Dec |
| Daily highs (°F) |
29 |
34 |
45 |
58 |
70 |
80 |
84 |
82 |
75 |
63 |
48 |
35 |
| Nightly lows (°F) |
13 |
18 |
28 |
39 |
48 |
57 |
63 |
62 |
54 |
42 |
31 |
20 |
| Precipitation (in) |
1.7 |
1.4 |
2.7 |
3.6 |
3.2 |
3.8 |
3.6 |
4.1 |
3.5 |
2.6 |
2.9 |
2.2 |
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Check Chicago's 7 day forecast at
NOAA |
Insider tip: it has been known to snow in Chicago
Weather is definitely not one of the attractions in Chicago.
There's a good time to be had in any season, but it is a place
where the climate has to be taken into consideration.
Obscured by Chicago's ferocious winters are the heat waves of
summer. Many days in July and August are disgustingly hot and
humid. Summer nights are more reasonable, though, and you'll get a
few degrees' respite along the lakefront — in the local parlance,
that's "cooler by the lake."
But then there are those winters. The months from December to
March will see very cold temperatures, with even more bitter wind
chill factors. Snow is usually limited to a handful of heavy storms
per season, with a few light dustings in-between. (And a little
more along the lakefront — again in the local parlance, that's
"lake effect snow".) Ice storms are also a risk. It's a city that's
well-accustomed to these winters, though, so city services and
public transportation are highly unlikely to shut down.
That said, Chicago does have a few nice months of weather. May
and September are pleasant and mild; April and June are mostly
fine, although thunderstorms with heavy winds can also occur
suddenly. Although there may be a chill in the air in October, it
rarely calls for more than a light coat. The lake effect may
prolong a pleasant autumn through October, and sometimes into
November.
Literature
Chicago literature found its roots in the city's tradition of
lucid, direct journalism, lending to a strong tradition of social
realism. Consequently, most notable Chicago fiction focuses on the
city itself, with social criticism keeping exultation in check.
Here is a selection of Chicago's most famous works about
itself:
- Karen Abbott's Sin in the Second City is a recent
best-seller about Chicago's vice district, the Levee, and some of
the personalities involved: gangsters, corrupt politicians, and two
sisters who ran the most elite brothel in town.
- Nelson Algren's Chicago: City on the Make is a prose
poem about the alleys, the El tracks, the neon and the dive bars,
the beauty and cruelty of Chicago. It's best saved for
after a trip, when at least twenty lines will have you
enraptured in recognition.
- Saul Bellow's Adventures of Augie March charts the
long drifting life of a Jewish Chicagoan and his myriad eccentric
acquaintances throughout the early 20th century: growing up in the
then Polish neighborhood of Humboldt Park, cavorting with
heiresses on the Gold Coast, studying at the
University of Chicago, fleeing union thugs in the Loop, and taking the
odd detour to hang out with Trotsky in Mexico while eagle-hunting giant iguanas on
horseback. This book has legitimate claim to be the
Chicago epic (for practical purposes, that means you won't finish
it on the plane).
- Gwendolyn Brooks' A Street in Bronzeville was the
collection of poems that launched the career of the famous Chicago
poetess, focused on the aspirations, disappointments, and daily
life of those who lived in 1940s Bronzeville. It is long out of
print, so you'll likely need to read these poems in a broader
collection, such as her Selected Poems.
- Sandra Cisneros' The House on Mango Street is a
Mexican-American coming-of-age novel, dealing with a young Latina
girl, Esperanza Cordero, growing up in the Chicago Chicano
ghetto.
- Theodore Dreiser's Sister Carrie is a cornerstone of
the turn of the 20th century Chicago Literary Renaissance, a tale
of a country girl in the big immoral city, rags-to-riches and back
again.
- Stuart Dybek's The Coast of Chicago is a collection of
fourteen marvelous short stories about growing up in Chicago
(largely in Pilsen and Little
Village) in a style blending the gritty with the
dreamlike.
- Erik Larson's Devil in the White City is a
best-selling pop history about the 1893 Colombian Exposition; it's
also about the serial killer who was stalking the city at the same
time. For a straight history of the Exposition and also the
workers' paradise in Pullman, try James Gilbert's excellent
Perfect Cities: Chicago's Utopias of 1893.
- Audrey Niffenegger's The Time-Traveler's Wife is a
recent love story set in Chicago nightclubs, museums, and
libraries.
- Mike Royko's Boss is the definitive biography of Mayor
Richard J. Daley and politics in Chicago, written by the beloved
late Tribune columnist. American Pharaoh (Cohen and
Taylor) is a good scholarly treatment of the same subject.
- Carl Sandburg's Chicago Poems is without a doubt the
most famous collection of poems about Chicago by its own "bard of
the working class."
- Upton Sinclair's The Jungle sits among the canon of
both Chicago literature and US labor history for its
muckraking-style depiction of the desolation experienced by
Lithuanian immigrants working in the Union Stockyards on Chicago's
Southwest Side.
- Richard Wright's Native Son is a classic Chicago
neighborhood novel set in Bronzeville and Hyde Park
about a young, doomed, black boy hopelessly warped by the racism
and poverty that defined his surroundings.
Movies
Chicago is America's third most prolific movie industry and a
host of very Chicago-centric movies have been produced here. These
are just a few:
- Ferris Bueller's Day Off (John Hughes, 1986). The
dream of the northern suburbs: to be young, clever, and loose for a
day in Chicago. Ferris and friends romp through the old Loop
theater district, catch a game at Wrigley Field, and enjoy the
sense of invincibility that Chicago shares with its favorite sons
when all is well.
- Adventures in Babysitting (Chris Columbus, 1987). The
flip side of Ferris Bueller — the dangers that await the
suburbanite in the Loop at night, including memorable trips to
lower Michigan Avenue and up close with the Chicago skyline.
- The Blues Brothers (John Landis, 1980). Probably
Chicago's favorite movie about itself: blues music, white men in
black suits, a mission from God, the conscience that every Chicago
hustler carries without question, and almost certainly the biggest
car chase ever filmed.
- The Untouchables (Brian De Palma, 1987). With a
square-jawed screenplay by David Mamet, this is a retelling of
Chicago's central fable of good vs. evil: Eliot Ness and the
legendary takedown of Al Capone. No film (except perhaps The
Blues Brothers) has made a better use of so many Chicago
locations, especially Union Station (the baby carriage), the
Chicago Cultural Center (the rooftop fight), and the LaSalle Street
canyon.
- High Fidelity (Stephen Frears, 2000). John Cusack
reviews failed relationships from high school at Lane Tech to
college in Lincoln Park and muses over them in trips through
Uptown, River North, all over the city on the CTA, his record store
in the rock snob environs of Wicker Park, and returning at last to
his record-swamped apartment in Rogers Park.
- Batman Begins (Christopher Nolan, 2005) and its sequel
The Dark Knight (2008). Making spectacular use of the 'L',
the Chicago Board of Trade Building, Chicago skyscrapers, the Loop
at night, and lower Wacker Drive, the revived action series finally
sets the imposing power and intractable corruption of Gotham City
where it belongs, in Chicago.
Others include Harrison Ford vs. the one-armed man in The
Fugitive, the CTA vs. true love in While You Were
Sleeping, and the greatest Patrick Swayze hillbilly ninja vs.
Italian mob film of all time, Next of Kin.
Smoking
Smoking is prohibited by state law at all restaurants, bars,
nightclubs, workplaces, and public buildings. It's also banned
within fifteen feet of any entrance, window, or exit to a public
place, and at CTA train stations. The fine for violating the ban
can range from $100 to $250.
Tourist Information
Chicago's visitor information centers offer maps, brochures and
other information for tourists.
- Chicago Water Works Visitor Information
Center, 163 E
Pearson Ave, ☎ +1 877
244-2246,
[2]. 7:30AM-7PM daily (closed Thanksgiving,
Christmas Day, & New Year's Day). The city's main visitor information center is
located on the Magnificent Mile in the historic Water Works. In
addition to extensive free visitor materials, there is a popular
gift shop inside.
edit
- Chicago Cultural Center Visitor Information
Center, 77 E
Randolph St, ☎ +1 312
744-8000, [3].
M-Th 10AM-7PM, F 10AM-6PM, Sa 10AM-5PM, Su
11AM-5PM. The Chicago Cultural
Center is a good, centrally located place to pick up a host of
useful, free materials relevant to virtually anyone visiting the
city.
edit
By plane
Chicago is served by two major airports:
O'Hare
International Airport [4]
and
Midway Airport [5].
There are plenty of taxis both to and from the city center, but
they are quite expensive, especially during rush hours. Expect
upwards of $40 for O'Hare and $30 for Midway. CTA trains provide
direct service to both larger airports for $2.25 from anywhere in
the city — faster than a taxi during rush hour and a lot less
expensive.
Many large hotels offer complimentary shuttle vans to one or
both airports, or can arrange one for a charge ($15-25) with
advance notice.
O'Hare
O'Hare International
Airport (
IATA:
ORD) is 17 miles
northwest of downtown and serves many international and domestic
carriers.
United Airlines [6] has the largest presence here
(about 50%) followed by
American Airlines [7] with about 40%. Most connecting
flights for smaller cities in the Midwest run through O'Hare. It's
one of the biggest airports in the world, and it has always been
notorious for delays and cancellations. Unfortunately, it's too far
northwest for most travelers who get stuck overnight to head into
the city. As a result, there are
plenty of hotels in the
O'Hare area. See the
O'Hare article for
listings.
The CTA Blue Line runs between the Loop and O'Hare in 45-60
sluggish minutes. On weekends, the Blue Line is usually getting
some overdue repair work — this means you will have to take a
(free) shuttle bus between stations, which can add even more time
to the trip. If you've got a plane to catch, allow extra time.
Midway
Midway International
Airport (
IATA:
MDW) is 10 miles
southwest of downtown.
Southwest Airlines [8] is the largest carrier here,
followed by
AirTran [9]. If
it's an option for your trip, Midway is more compact, less crowded,
has fewer delays, and usually cheaper.
The CTA Orange Line train runs between the Loop and Midway in
around 25 minutes. There are a number of hotels clustered around
Midway, too — see the
Southwest Side article for
listings.
Others
Milwaukee's
General Mitchell International Airport [10] (
IATA:
MKE) is served by
7 Amtrak trains per day (6 on Sunday), and the Hiawatha Service was
Amtrak's most on-time route in 2006. The trip from Chicago Union
Station to Mitchell Airport Station is about one hour and 15
minutes.
- Greyhound, 630 W Harrison St, ☎ +1 312 408-5800, [11]. 24
hours. America's largest bus
carrier offers service to destinations throughout the Midwest. The
main terminal is near the southwestern corner of the Loop. There
are secondary terminal at the CTA Red Line station at 95th/Dan Ryan
and the CTA transit building (5800 N Cumberland). With advance
purchase, the trip to Detroit costs about $27. edit
- Megabus, 4400 S Racine Ave, ☎ +1 877 462-6342, [12]. M-Sa
6:30AM-10PM, Su 6:30AM-8PM. Popular in the United Kingdom, Megabus recently
established a branch in Chicago. These buses stop in Chicago near
Union Station (see below). At present, buses run
express from Chicago to sixteen other major Midwestern cities. With
advance purchase, the trip to Detroit costs about $8.
edit
Hold on to your baby carriages in Union Station!
Chicago is historically the rail hub of the entire United
States. Today,
Amtrak [13], ☎ +1 800 872-7245, uses the
magisterial
Union Station (Canal St and Jackson
Blvd) as the hub of its Midwestern routes, making Chicago one of
the most convenient U.S. cities to visit by train, serving the
majority of the passenger rail company's long-distance routes, with
options from virtually every major US city. With its massive main
hall, venerable history, and cinematic steps, Union Station is
worth a visit even if you're not coming in by train.
Most (but not all) Metra suburban trains run from Union Station
and nearby
Ogilvie/Northwestern Station (Canal St
and Madison St), which are west of the Loop. Some southern lines
run from stations on the east side of the Loop. The suburban trains
run as far as
Kenosha,
Aurora, and
Joliet, while the South Shore line runs through
Indiana as far as
South Bend. Several CTA
buses converge upon the two stations, and the
Loop CTA trains are
within walking distance.
By car
Chicagoans have a maddening habit of referring to some
expressways by their names, not the numbers used to identify them
on the signs you'll see posted on the U.S. interstate highway
system, so you'll have to commit both name and number to memory.
I-55 (the
Stevenson Expressway)
will take you directly from
St. Louis into downtown Chicago.
I-90/94 (
The Dan Ryan) comes in
from
Indiana to the east
(via the
Chicago Skyway and
Bishop Ford
Freeway) and from central
Illinois (via
I-57).
I-90 (
The Kennedy) comes in from
Madison to the northwest.
I-94 (the
Edens Expressway) comes
in from
Milwaukee to the
north, but recent roadwork has slowed traffic considerably compared
to I-90.
I-80 will get you to the city from
Iowa which neighbors Illinois to the
west.
If arriving downtown from Indiana, from the south on
I-94 or I-90, or from the north,
Lake Shore Drive (U.S. Highway 41) provides a
scenic introduction in both directions, day or night. If arriving
on I-55 from the southwest, or on
I-290 (the Eisenhower Expressway,
formerly and sometimes still called The Congress
Expressway) from the west, the skyline may also be visible
from certain clear spots, but without the shore view. It should
also be noted that I-55 from the southwest and I-90 through much of
northwest Indiana are chock full of heavy industries with odors
that'll knock your socks off, so plan your route downtown
wisely.
Navigating Chicago is easy. Block numbers are consistent across
the whole city. Standard blocks, of 100 addresses each, are roughly
1/8th of a mile long. (Hence, a mile is equivalent to a street
number difference of 800.) Each street is assigned a number based
on its distance from the zero point of the address system, the
intersection of State Street and Madison Street. A street with a W
(west) or E (east) number runs north-south, while a street with a N
(north) or S (south) number runs east-west. A street's number is
usually written on street signs at intersections, below the street
name. Major thoroughfares are at each mile (multiples of 800) and
secondary arteries at the half-mile marks. Thus, Western Ave at
2400 W is a north-south major thoroughfare, while Montrose Ave at
4400 N is an east-west secondary artery.
In general, "avenues" run north-south and "streets" run
east-west, but there are numerous exceptions. (e.g., 48th Street
may then be followed by 48th Place). In conversation, however,
Chicagoans rarely distinguish between streets, avenues, boulevards,
etc.
Several streets follow diagonal or meandering paths through the
city such as Clark St, Lincoln Ave, Broadway, Milwaukee Ave, Ogden
Ave, Archer Ave, Vincennes Ave, and South Chicago Ave.
By public transit
The best way to see Chicago is by public transit. It is cheap
(basically), efficient (at times), and safe (for the most part).
The
Regional Transportation Authority (RTA) [14] oversees the various
public transit agencies in the
Chicagoland area. You can plan trips online
with the RTA
trip planner [15] or get assistance
by calling 836-7000 in any local area code between 5AM-1AM. The RTA
also has an official partnership with Google Maps, which can
provide routes with public transit.
CTA
The
Chicago Transit Authority (CTA) [16] operates trains and
buses in the city of Chicago and some of the suburbs. Put simply,
the CTA
is Chicago. It is a marvel and a beast,
convenient, frustrating, and irreplaceable. Even if you have the
option of driving while you're in town, no experience of Chicago is
complete without a trip on the CTA.
Fares are paid with
transit cards, which can be
purchased and re-filled at kiosks in the lobby of every CTA
station. All accept cash, and some accept credit cards. Many locals
use the
Chicago Card, which cannot be purchased at
stations, but can be ordered online
[17] and also purchased at
grocery stores and currency exchanges.
Visitor
passes are sold for unlimited travel on the CTA and Pace:
1-Day (24 hours) for $5.75; 3-Days for $14; 7-Days for $23 and
30-Days for $86. These passes are on sale at certain train stations
(notably, the O'Hare Blue Line station), currency exchanges and
some convenience stores, and online
[18]. Transit
cards for single rides or larger increments can also be purchased
online.
Train rides of any length, from one side of the city to another
or just one stop, cost $2.25. At certain stations, you can transfer
to other train lines at no extra cost. Once you have exited the
turnstiles, entering another CTA station or boarding a CTA bus
costs $0.25 — and doing it a third time is free, provided it's
still within two hours of when you started the trip.
Locals refer to Chicago's public train system as the "L". (Most
lines run on
el-evated tracks — get it?) All train
lines radiate from the
Loop to every corner of the city. The
"Loop" name originally referred to a surface-level streetcar loop,
which pre-dated the elevated tracks; that
any form of
transportation preceded the present one may come as a surprise,
given how old some of the stations look. But they work.
A CTA bus - note the number/destination and symbol for wheelchair
accessibility
CTA train lines are divided by colors: Red, Green, Brown, Blue,
Purple, Yellow, Orange and Pink. All lines lead to the Loop except
the Yellow Line, which is a nonstop shuttle between the suburb of
Skokie and the northern border
of Chicago. The Red and Blue lines run 24/7, making Chicago one of
only two American cities with 24-hour rail service. Hours for the
other lines vary somewhat by day, but as a general rule are from
about 4:30AM-12:40AM, slightly later on weekends.
Before you travel, find out the name of the train stop closest
to your destination, and the color of the train line on which it is
located. Once you're on-board, you'll find route maps in each train
car, above the door. The same map is also available online
[19].
The name signs on platforms often have the station's location in
the street grid, e.g. "5900 N, 1200 W" for Thorndale.
There should be an attendant on duty at every train station.
They can't provide change or deal with money, but they can help you
figure out where you need to go and guide you through using the
machines.
A CTA bus stop - note the symbols for wheelchair accessibility and
late-night hours
Buses run on nearly every major street in the
city. Look for the blue and white sign, which should give a map of
the route taken by the bus and major streets/stops along the way.
Once inside, watch the front of the bus — a red LED display will
list the names of the streets as they pass, making it easy to stop
exactly where you'd like, even if it's a small side-street. To
request a stop, pull the cord hanging above the window and make
sure you hear an audible 'ding'. Hollering at the bus driver will
raise tempers but works in a pinch.
Rides of any length cost $2 with a transit card or Chicago Card,
and $2.25 in cash. Major bus routes run 7-15 minutes apart during
daylight hours, depending on the route. Less-traveled routes or
routes during off-peak hours may run less frequently. Check the
sign to be sure the bus is still running. There are several bus
routes that are on a 24 hour/7 day a week schedule — these are
called OWL routes, and the signs usually have an owl to belabor
that point. (See individual district articles for major bus routes
through different parts of the city.)
If you have a web-enabled mobile device, the CTA runs a little
godsend called the
CTA Bus Tracker [20], which
uses GPS to provide reliable, real-time tracking information for
almost all bus routes.
CTA buses accept transit cards but do not sell them. They also
accept cash, but do not provide change. If you overpay, the CTA
keeps the extra cash, so carry exact change if possible.
In compliance with the Americans With Disabilities Act, all CTA
buses and some train stations are accessible to wheelchairs.
Wheelchair-accessible 'L' stations are indicated by the
international wheelchair symbol and have elevators or are at ground
level. If you are trying to get to a place with a non-accessible
station, there will be alternate routes by bus — contact the CTA
for more information.
Crime on the CTA is low, but as with any major urban area,
travelers should be aware of their surroundings when traveling in
the wee hours of the night, and sit close to the driver if you feel
uncomfortable for any reason. Buses are being equipped with video
cameras as the fleet is upgraded. Some train cars have a button and
speaker for emergency communication with the driver, located in the
center aisle of the car on the wall next to the door. Do not press
this just to chat — the driver is required to halt the train until
the situation has been confirmed as resolved, and your fellow
passengers will be unamused.
Metra and South Shore
Metra train on the way to the Loop
Metra [21], ☎ +1 312 322-6777, runs
commuter trains for the suburbs, providing service within Illinois,
to
Kenosha,
Wisconsin, out west, and to
the South Shore railroad, which provides service to
South Bend,
Indiana. Metra trains are fast,
clean, and on-time, but unpleasantly crowded during rush hour.
Generally, every car or every other car on the train has a
bathroom.
Metra's
Electric Line provides service to the
convention
center (McCormick Place),
Hyde Park (Museum of Science and
Industry, University of Chicago), and the
Far Southeast Side's Pullman
Historic District and Rainbow Beach. The Electric Line is
fast, taking at most 15 minutes to reach Hyde Park from
the Loop. Unfortunately, service outside of rush hours is
infrequent (about once/hour), so be sure to check the schedules
while planning your trip.
Although there are plans to change this in the future, none of
the commuter trains currently accept CTA transit cards as payment.
The fare to McCormick Place and Hyde Park, however, is only $2. Buy
your tickets before boarding the train at a window or one of the
automated vending machines. You can buy a ticket on the train, but
that comes with an extra $2/ticket surcharge.
Ten-ride, weekly, and monthly passes are available. If you have
a group of four or more people, it may be cheaper to purchase a
ten-ride card and have all of your fares punched from that one
card. If using Metra on Saturday and/or Sunday, you can purchase an
unlimited ride weekend pass for just $5. Keep in mind that Metra
only accepts cash at this time.
Pace
Pace [22] runs buses in the suburbs,
although some routes do cross into the city, particularly in
Rogers
Park at the Howard (Red/Purple/Yellow Line) CTA station and the
Far Northwest Side at the
Jefferson Park (Blue Line) CTA station. Pace provides paratransit
services should you need to go somewhere inconvenient via CTA.
By car
Avoid driving in downtown Chicago if at all possible. Traffic is
awful, pedestrians are constantly wandering into the street out of
turn, and garages in the Loop can cost as much as $40 per day. And
although downtown streets are laid out on the grid, many have
multiple levels which confuse even the most hardened city driver.
Even outside of the city center, street parking may not be readily
available. If you do find a spot, check street signs to make sure
that a) no residential permit is required to park here and b)
parking is not disallowed during certain hours for "street
cleaning", rush hour or something along those lines. Parking
restrictions are swiftly and mercilessly enforced in the form of
tickets and towing — be especially wary during snowy weather.
Parking meters are mixed between old coin-op meters and newer
one-per-block kiosks, which will issue a slip for you to put in
your front window.
Be advised: talking on a handheld cell phone while
driving is illegal in Chicago, and the police are eager to
write tickets for it. If you need to take a call, use a hands-free
headset — or better yet, pull over.
The perpetual construction is bad enough, but drivers on the
city expressways can be very aggressive. For those used to driving
on expressways in the Northeast, this may be a welcome reminder of
home. For everyone else, though, it can be intimidating.
|
Your Name Here
Determined to shake off the burden of a world-class cultural
heritage, Chicago has always found ways to undercut its own
treasures in exchange for a quick buck. Of late, "naming rights"
are all the rage; while official city tourism guides rush to
comply, using the new names will earn an eye roll or an oblivious
look from most Chicagoans (and cab drivers). A few of the worst
offenders:
- Sears Tower — 36 years after it was built,
North America's tallest building was redubbed the "Willis Tower"
for a bunch of junk bond traders; even more surprising than the
renaming was how little the owners got for it.
- Comiskey Park — Winning the city's first World
Series in nearly a century helped earn some acceptance for the
"U.S. Cellular Field" ("The Cell") moniker, but it's still regarded
as profanity by the old-timers in Bridgeport, where the
first Comiskey Park was built in 1910.
- Hollywood Beach — The favorite beach of
Chicago's GLBT community was renamed "Kathy Osterman Beach" for one
of the mayor's Edgewater based political cronies,
but more than a decade later, only city signage knows it by that
name.
|
Chicago has some of the cheapest taxi fares in the U.S. Taxis
are readily available throughout the major areas of interest for
tourists and can be hailed from the street. All taxis are carefully
regulated by the city. Taxi fares are standard and the initial
charge ("flag pull") is $2.25 for the first 1/9 mile, then $0.20
for each additional mile or $0.20 for each elapsed 36 seconds. As
of June 11, 2008, there is a $1.00 fuel surcharge added to the
initial charge. There is also a flat $1.00 charge for the second
passenger, and then a $0.50 charge for each additional passenger
after that (for example, if four people take a taxi together, there
will be $2.00 in additional flat fees). There is no additional
charge for baggage or credit card use. Taxi rides from
O'Hare and
Midway to outer suburbs cost an
additional one half the metered fee. Taxi drivers work best if you
give them the nearest major intersection to which you are heading
and then the specific address.
Outside of the downtown, North Side, Near West and Near South
neighborhoods, you will likely have greater difficulty hailing a
taxi directly from the street. In these situations, you can easily
call for a taxi to come pick you up. Taxis typically take less than
10 minutes from the time you call to arrive. The principal Chicago
taxi companies are:
- American-United Taxi, ☎ +1 773 248-7600
- Checker Cab, ☎ +1 312 243-2537
- Flash Cab, ☎ +1 773 561-1444 [23]
- Yellow Cab, ☎ +1 312 829-4222 [24]
The above applies only to City of Chicago taxis. Suburban-based
taxi cabs have their own fares and rates, depending on the laws and
regulations of the town in which they are based.
By bicycle
Chicago has a bike path along the shores of Lake Michigan,
making north-south travel very convenient if you're far enough
east, as long as the weather is favorable by the lake. Most major
city streets have bike lanes, and the biking culture is established
enough that cars tend to accommodate and (grudgingly) yield to
bicycles. Bike trips can also be combined with rides on the CTA.
See the
bicycling section
below for more details.
- Along the Magnificent Mile —
one day and night in Chicago, with skyscrapers, shopping, food,
parks, and amazing views of the city from high and low.
- Loop Art
Tour — a 2-4 hour walking tour of downtown Chicago's
magnificent collection of modern sculpture.
Penguin triumphant, Lincoln Park Zoo
Chicago's set of museums and cultural institutions are among the
best in the world. Three of them are located within a short walk of
each other in the
Near South, on what is known as the
Museum Campus, in a beautiful spot along the lake:
the
Adler Planetarium, with all sorts of cool
hands-on space exhibits and astronomy shows; the
Field
Museum of Natural History, which features "Sue," the giant
Tyrannosaurus Rex skeleton, and a plethora of Egyptian treasures;
and the
Shedd Aquarium, with dolphins, whales,
sharks, and the best collection of marine life east of California.
A short distance away, in
Hyde Park, is the most fun of them
all, the
Museum of Science and Industry — or, as
generations of Chicago-area grammar school students know it, the
best field trip ever.
In the
Loop,
the
Art Institute of Chicago has a handful of
iconic household names among an unrivaled collection of
Impressionism, modern and classical art, and tons of historical
artifacts. And in
Lincoln Park, a short
trip from the Loop, the cheerful (and free)
Lincoln Park
Zoo welcomes visitors every day of the week, with
highlights including the brand-new Great Ape House.
Those are the most famous ones, but Chicago has some knockout
small museums scattered throughout the city like the
National Museum of Mexican Art in
Pilsen,
The Polish Museum
of America (purportedly haunted by the once famous pianist
Paderewski) in
Wicker Park, and the
Museum
of Photography in the Loop. The University of Chicago, in
Hyde
Park, has several cool (and free) museums that are open to all
visitors, including a spectacular collection of antiquities.
Discount packages like the
CityPass [25] and the
Go Chicago Card [26] can be purchased
before you arrive in town. They cover admission to some museums and
other tourist attractions, allowing you to cut to the front of
lines, and may include discounts for restaurants and shopping.
Architecture
From the sternly classical to the space-age, from the Gothic to
the coolly modern, Chicago is a place with an embarrassment of
architectural riches, where the past meets the future. Modern
architecture was born here.
Frank Lloyd Wright
fans will swoon to see his earliest buildings in Chicago, where he
began his professional career and established the Prairie School
architectural style, with numerous homes in
Hyde
Park/Kenwood,
Oak
Park, and
Rogers Park — over 100 buildings in
the Chicago metropolitan area! He learned his craft at the foot of
the
lieber meister,
Louis Sullivan, whose
ornate, awe-inspiring designs were once the jewels of the
Loop, and whose few
surviving buildings (Auditorium Theater, Carson Pirie Scott
Building, one in the
Ukrainian Village) still stand
apart.
The 1871 Chicago Fire forced the city to rebuild. The ingenuity
and ambition of Sullivan, his teacher
William Le Baron
Jenney (Manhattan Building), and contemporaries like
Burnham & Root (Monadnock, Rookery) and
Holabird & Roche/Root (Chicago Board of Trade)
made Chicago the definitive city of their era. The world's first
skyscrapers were built in the
Loop as those architects received ever
more demanding commissions. Later,
Mies van der
Rohe would adapt Sullivan's ethos with landmark buildings
in
Bronzeville (Illinois Institute of
Technology) and the
Loop (Chicago Federal Center).
Unfortunately, Chicago's world-class architectural heritage is
almost evenly matched by the world-class recklessness with which
the city has treated it, and the list is long of masterpieces that
have been needlessly demolished for bland new structures.
Architectural tours cover the landmarks on foot and by popular
river boat tours, or by just standing awestruck on a downtown
bridge over the Chicago River; see individual district articles for
details. For a tour on the cheap, the short trip around the
elevated Loop train circuit (Brown/Purple Lines) may be worth every
penny of the $2 fare.
Chicago is also the birthplace of the
skyscraper. It was here that steel-frame
construction was invented, allowing buildings to rise above the
limits of load-bearing walls. Naturally, competition with New York
was fierce, but in the end, Chicago built them taller. Chicago
boasts three out of America's tallest five buildings: the
Sears
Tower (1st), the
Trump Tower (2nd), and the Aon
Center (5th) (although the local favorite is actually #6: the
John Hancock
Center). For years, the Sears Tower was the tallest building in
the world, but it's since lost the title. Various developers insist
they're bringing the title back. Until they do, though, the Sears
Tower will have to settle for being the tallest building in
North America,
although the Hancock is not much shorter, is better located for
tourists, has a better view, and is quite frankly
better-looking.
African-American history
Chicago's African-American history begins with the city's
African-American founder,
Jean Baptiste Pointe du
Sable. Born to a Haitian slave and a French pirate, he
married a woman from the Potawatomi tribe, and built a house and
trading post on the Chicago River on the spot of today's Pioneer
Court (the square just south of the Tribune Tower in the
Near
North). Du Sable lived on the Chicago River with his family
from the 1770s to 1800, when he sold his house to John Kinzie,
whose family and friends would later claim to have founded the
city.
Relative to other northern cities, African-Americans constituted
a fairly large part of Chicago's early population because of
Illinois' more tolerant culture, which was inherited from fervent
anti-slavery Mormon settlers. As a non-slave state generally
lacking official segregation laws, Illinois was an attractive place
to live for black freedmen and fugitive slaves.
By the 1920s, Chicago had a thriving middle class
African-American community based in the
Bronzeville neighborhood, which at
the time became known as "The Black Metropolis," home to a cultural
renaissance comparable to the better-known Harlem Renaissance of
New York. African-American literature of the time was represented
by local poetess
Gwendolyn Brooks and novelist
Richard Wright, most famous for his
Native
Son, nearly all of which takes place in Chicago's
Bronzeville and
Hyde
Park/Kenwood. The Chicago school of African-American literature
distinguished itself from the East Coast by its focus on the new
realities of urban African-American life. Chicago became a
major center of African-American jazz, and
the
center for the blues. Jazz great
Louis Armstrong
got his start there; other famous black Chicagoans of the day
included Bessie Coleman — the world's first licensed black pilot,
the hugely influential African-American and women's civil rights
activist
Ida B. Wells, the great
pitcher/manager/executive of Negro League Baseball
Andrew
"Rube" Foster, and many more.
Both fueling and threatening Chicago's black renaissance was the
single most influential part of Chicago's African-American history:
the Great Migration. African-Americans from the
rural
South moved to the
industrial cities of the North due to the post-WWI shortage of
immigrant industrial labor, and to escape the Jim Crow Laws and
racial violence of the South. The massive wave of migrants, most
from
Mississippi,
increased Chicago's black population by more than 500,000. With it
came southern food, Mississippi blues, and the challenges of
establishing adequate housing for so many recent arrivals — a
challenge that they would have to meet themselves, without help
from a racist and neglectful city government.
Black Chicago's renaissance was brought to its knees by the
Great Depression; its fate was sealed ironically by the 1937
creation of the Chicago Housing Authority, which sought to build
affordable public housing for the city. However well-intentioned
the project may have sounded, the results were disastrous. The
largest housing projects by far were the 1940 Ida B. Wells
projects, which were designed to "warehouse" Chicago's population
of poor African-Americans in a district far away from white
population centers, the Cabrini Green projects, which developed a
reputation as the most violent housing projects in the nation, and
the massive 1962 Robert Taylor Homes in Bronzeville, which were
forced to house an additional 16,000 people beyond their intended
11,000 capacity. The Black Metropolis proved unable to cope with
this massive influx of new, impoverished residents, and the urban
blight that came from concentrating such a great number of them in
one place.
Further damaging to Chicago's black population was the
phenomenon of "white flight" that accompanied the introduction of
African-Americans to Chicago neighborhoods. Unwilling to live
beside black neighbors, many Chicagoans fled desegregation to the
suburbs. This trend was accelerated by the practice of
"blockbusting," where unsavory real estate agents would fan racist
fears in order to buy homes on the cheap. As a result, Chicago
neighborhoods (with the notable exceptions of
Hyde
Park/Kenwood, and
Rogers Park) never truly
integrated, and the social, educational, and economic networks that
incoming African-Americans hoped to join disintegrated in the wake
of fleeing white communities. During this period, Chicago
experienced a huge population loss and large sections of the city
became covered with vacant lots, which in turn created the
conditions for crime to flourish. A number of Chicago's major
roads, most notably the Dan Ryan Expressway, were built in part to
segregate these areas from more prosperous ones like the
Loop.
In 1966,
Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. decided to
come north and chose Chicago as his first destination. However,
from the moment of his arrival on the
Southwest Side, King was utterly
confounded. The death threats that followed his march through
Marquette Park were challenge enough, but nowhere in the South was
there a more expert player of politics than Chicago's Mayor Richard
J. Daley. King left town frustrated and exhausted, but
Rev.
Jesse Jackson continued civil rights efforts in Chicago
through his Operation PUSH. The 1983 election of
Mayor
Harold Washington, the first black mayor of Chicago, was a
watershed event for Chicago's African-American population, and
although long battles with obstructionist white politicians lay
ahead, it marked the moment when African-American elected officials
became major, independent forces in Chicago.
Today, with a plurality of nearly 40%, Chicago's black
population is the country's second largest, after New York. The
broader South Side is the cultural center of Chicago's black
community; it constitutes the largest single African-American
neighborhood in the country and boasts the nation's greatest
concentration of black-owned businesses. Chicagoans ignorant of
these areas may tell you that they are dangerous and crime-ridden,
but the reality is much more complex. There are strong, middle and
upper class black communities throughout the city, some of the more
prominent of which include
upper Bronzeville,
Hyde
Park/Kenwood,
Chatham,
South Shore, and
Beverly.
Bronzeville is the obvious
destination for those interested in African-American history,
although Kenwood also boasts interesting recent history, as it has
been (or is) home to championship boxer Muhammad Ali, Nation of
Islam leaders Elijah Muhammad and Louis Farrakhan, and
President Barack Obama. No one should miss the
DuSable Museum of African-American History in
Bronzeville, the first museum of
African-American history in the United States. And if your interest
is more precisely in African-American culture than history, head
down to
Chatham and South Shore to
enter the heart of Chicago's black community.
Wentworth Ave, Chinatown's main street
Chicago is among the most diverse cities in America, and many
neighborhoods reflect the character and culture of the immigrants
who established them. Some, however, do more than just reflect:
they absorb you in a place that, for several blocks at a
time, may as well be a chunk of another country, picked up and
dropped near the shores of Lake Michigan. The best of Chicago's
ethnic neighborhoods are completely uncompromised, and that makes
them a real highlight for visitors.
Chicago's
Chinatown is among the
most active Chinatowns in the world. It even has its own stop on
the CTA Red Line. It's on the South Side near
Bridgeport, birthplace of
the Irish political power-brokers who have run Chicago government
for most of the last century. More Irish communities exist on the
Far Southwest Side, where
they even have an Irish castle to seal the deal. The
Southwest Side houses enormous
populations of Polish Highlanders and Mexicans, as well as reduced
Lithuanian and Bohemian communities.
No serious Chicago gourmand would eat Indian food that didn't
come from a restaurant on
Devon Avenue in
Rogers
Park. It's paradise for spices, saris, and the latest Bollywood
flicks. Lawrence Avenue in
Albany Park is sometimes called
Seoul Drive for the Korean community there, and
the Persian food on Kedzie Avenue nearby is simply astonishing. At
the
Argyle Red Line stop, by the intersection of
Argyle and Broadway in
Uptown, you'd be forgiven for wondering
if you were still in America; Vietnamese, Thais, and Laotians share
space on a few blocks of restaurants, grocery stores, and even
dentists. Neither the Swedish settlers who built
Andersonville or
the Germans from
Lincoln Square are the dominant
presence in those neighborhoods any more, but their identity is
still present in restaurants, cultural centers, and other small
discoveries to be made. Likewise,
Little Italy and
Greektown on the
Near West Side survive only as
restaurant strips.
A more contemporary experience awaits in
Pilsen and
Little
Village, two neighborhoods on the Lower West Side where the
Spanish signage outnumbers the English; in fact, Chicago has the
second largest Mexican and Puerto Rican populations outside of
their respective home countries. Pilsen and its arts scene is an
especially an exciting place to visit.
It's hard to imagine displacement being a concern for the Polish
community on the city's
Far Northwest and
Southwest sides. The
Belmont-Central business district is what you
might consider the epicenter of Polish activity. Bars, restaurants,
and dozens of other types of Polish businesses thrive on this
strip, and on a smaller section of Milwaukee Avenue (between
Addison and Diversey).
Taste of Polonia, held over
Labor Day weekend, draws an annual attendance of about 50,000
people.
Do
Beaches
Chicago is not well known as a beach destination, but Lake
Michigan is the largest freshwater lake located entirely within the
United States, and Chicagoans flock to it. Anyone can show up and
swim — virtually none of Chicago's lakefront is spoiled by
"private" beaches. And despite the latitude, the water is quite
warm in the late summer and early fall (check with the NOAA for
temperatures
[27])
. The Chicago shore has been called the second cleanest urban
waterfront
in the world, although bacteria levels in the
water do force occasional — but rare — beach closures (which are
clearly posted at the beach, and online
[28]).
Lifeguards keep a stern watch for safety, and if one's in a row
boat, they're both keeping an eye out and setting a boundary for
swimmers (usually waist-deep).
Oak Street Beach and North Avenue Beach (in the
Near
North and
Lincoln Park) are the
fashionable places to sun-tan and be seen, but
Rogers
Park has mile after mile of less pretentious sand and surf.
Hyde Park's
Promontory Point is beautiful, and offers skyline views from its
submerged beach by the rocks (although a swim there is
technically against city rules). Rainbow Beach in
South Shore is actually one
of the city's nicest, although it is rarely visited by sun lovers
from outside the neighborhood.
The Osaka Garden on Jackson Park's Wooded Isle
Where there are beaches, there are lakefront parks. During the
summer months, the lakefront parks are a destination for organized
and impromptu volleyball and soccer games, chess matches, and
plenty more. There are also a couple of tennis courts in
Lincoln Park,
Lakeview, and
Rogers
Park. There are also terrific parks further away from the lake.
In the
Loop,
Grant Park hosts music festivals throughout the
year, and
Millennium Park is a fun destination for
all ages, especially during the summer. In
Hyde Park,
Midway Park offers skating, and summer and winter
gardens in the shadow of the academic giant, the University of
Chicago, and
Jackson Park has golf, more gardens
and the legacy of the city's shining moment, the 1893 World's
Colombian Exposition. In
Bronzeville,
Washington
Park is one of the city's best places for community
sports. And that's just a brief overview. Almost every neighborhood
in Chicago has a beloved park.
Events & Festivals
If you're
absolutely determined and you plan carefully,
you may be able to visit Chicago during a festival-less week. It's
a challenge, though. Most neighborhoods, parishes, and service
groups host their own annual festivals throughout the spring,
summer, and fall
[29]. There are a few can't-miss city-wide events, though. In
the
Loop, Grant
Park hosts
Taste of Chicago in July, and four
major music festivals:
Blues Fest and
Gospel Fest in June,
Lollapalooza
in August, and
Jazz Fest over Labor Day Weekend.
All but Lollapalooza are free. The Chicago-based music website
Pitchfork Media also hosts their own annual three
day festival of rock, rap, and more in the summer.
Sports
With entries in every major professional sports league and
several universities in the area, Chicago sports fans have a lot to
keep them occupied. The
Chicago Bears play
football at Soldier Field in the
Near South from warm September to
frigid January. Since the baseball teams split the city in half,
nothing seizes the Chicago sports consciousness like a playoff run
from the Bears, who dominated the 2006 season before losing in the
Super Bowl. Aspiring fans will be expected to be able to quote a
minimum of two verses of the
Super Bowl Shuffle from
memory, tear up at the mention of Walter Payton, and provide
arguments as to how Butkus, Singletary, and Urlacher represent the
premier linebackers of their respective eras, with supporting
evidence in the form of grunts, yells, and fists slammed on
tables.
The
Chicago Bulls play basketball at the United
Center on the
Near West Side. After a few
miserable years, the Bulls are in playoff form again, and while
ticket prices may never reach Jordan-era mania, they're still an
exciting team to watch, even if the United Center doesn't hold in
noise like the old Chicago Stadium did. The
Chicago
Blackhawks share a building with the Bulls. As one of the
"Original Six" teams in professional hockey, they have a long
history in their sport, and while they've been awful for years, the
team is experiencing a renaissance. Home games tend to sell out,
but tickets can usually be found if you check in advance. Both the
Bulls and the Blackhawks play from the end of October to the
beginning of April.
It's baseball, though, in which the tribal fury of Chicago
sports is best expressed. The
Chicago Cubs play at
Wrigley Field on the North Side, in
Lakeview, and the
Chicago White Sox play at U.S. Cellular Field
(Comiskey Park, underneath the corporate naming rights) on the
South Side, in
Bridgeport. Both stadiums
are open-air, and both franchises have more than a century's worth
of history. Everything else is a matter of fiercely held opinion.
Both teams play 81 home games from April to the beginning of
October. The two three-game series when the teams play each other
are the hottest sports tickets in Chicago during any given year. If
someone offers you tickets to a game, pounce.
There are plenty of smaller leagues in the city as well,
although some play their games in the suburbs. The
Chicago
Fire (Major League Soccer) and
Chicago Red
Stars (Women's Professional Soccer) play soccer in the
suburb of Bridgeview, the
Chicago Sky play women's
professional basketball at the UIC Pavilion on the
Near
West Side, and the
Windy City Rollers skate
flat-track roller derby in neighboring
Cicero. Minor league baseball teams dot the
suburbs as well.
While college athletics are not one of the city's strong points,
Northwestern football (in
Evanston) and DePaul basketball (in
Lincoln Park) show
occasional signs of life, and the University of Illinois at
Champaign-Urbana is usually at least
competitive. If you find yourself in
Hyde Park, ask someone how the
University of Chicago football team is doing — it's a surefire
conversation starter.
Theater
Modern American comedy — the good parts, at least — was born
when a group of young actors from
Hyde Park formed The Compass Players,
fusing intelligence and a commitment to character with an
improvisational spark. One strand of their topical, hyper-literate
comedy led, directly or indirectly, to Shelly Berman, Mike Nichols
& Elaine May, Lenny Bruce,
M*A*S*H and
The Mary
Tyler Moore Show; another strand, namely
The Second
City, led to
Saturday Night Live and a pretty
huge percentage of the funny movies and television of the last
thirty years. Still in Chicago's
Old Town (and few other
places as well), still smart and still funny, Second City does
two-act sketch revues followed by one act of improv. As the saying
goes, if you can only see one show while you're in Chicago, even if
you have no particular interest in theater, Second City is one to
see.
Improvisational comedy as a performance art form is a big part
of the Chicago theater scene. At
Lakeview and
Uptown theaters
like
The Annoyance Theater,
I.O.,
and
The Playground, young actors take classes and
perform shows that range from ragged to inspired throughout the
week. Some are fueled by the dream of making the cast of
SNL or Tina Fey's latest project, and some just enjoy
doing good work on-stage, whether or not they're getting paid for
it (and most aren't). There's no guarantee that you'll see
something great on any given night, but improv tends to be cheaper
than anything else in town, and it can definitely be worth the
risk. Another popular theater experience is the comedy/drama hybrid
Too Much Light Makes The Baby Go Blind, offering
30 plays in 60 minutes every weekend in
Andersonville.
Steppenwolf, in
Lincoln Park, is
Chicago's other landmark theater. Founded in 1976, they have a
history of taking risks onstage, and they have the ensemble to back
it up, with heavyweights like Joan Allen, John Malkovich, and Gary
Sinise. Steppenwolf isn't cheap any more, but they mix good, young
actors with their veteran ensemble and still choose interesting,
emotionally-charged scripts. It's the best place in town to see
modern, cutting-edge theater with a bit of "I went to..." name-drop
value for the folks back home.
Most of the prestige theaters, including the
Broadway in
Chicago outlets, are located in the
Loop or the
Near
North. Tickets are expensive and can be tough to get, but shows
destined for
Broadway like
The
Producers often make their debut here. For the cost-conscious,
the
League of Chicago Theatres operates
Hot Tix [30], which offers short-notice
half-price tickets to many Chicago shows.
One theater to see, regardless of the production, is
The
Auditorium in the
Loop. It's a masterpiece of architecture
and of performance space. Designed by Dankmar Adler and Louis
Sullivan, who were on a commission from syndicate of local business
magnates to bring some culture to the heathen city, it was the
tallest building in Chicago and one of the tallest in the world at
the time of its opening in 1889, and it's still an impressive
sight, inside and out.
Bicycles
Chicago has a strong, passionate bicycle culture, and riding
opportunities abound. Pedaling your way around the city is one of
the best ways to get to know Chicago. And the terrain is mostly
flat — a boon for easy-going cyclists!
The scenic
Lakefront Trail runs for 18
continuous miles along the city's beautiful shoreline. Even while
riding at a moderate pace, traveling downtown along the lakefront
can be faster than driving or taking the CTA! Further inland, many
streets have bike lanes, and signs direct riders to major bike
routes. The City of Chicago maintains helpful
bicycle
resources online
[31], including major civic bike events and (slow) interactive
maps of major streets with bike lanes.
Bicyclists have to follow the same "rules of the road" as
automobiles. Police officers will write citations for bicyclists in
violation of traffic laws (especially disregarding stop signs and
traffic lights). Bicycle riding is never allowed on sidewalks
(except for children under age 12). This rule is strictly enforced
in higher density neighborhoods, mostly areas near the lake, and is
considered a criminal misdemeanor offense. You must walk your bike
on the sidewalk.
Conveniently, CTA buses are all equipped with bike racks which
carry up to two bicycles, and 'L' trains permit two bicycles per
car except during rush hour (roughly 7-9:30AM and
3:30-6:30PM weekdays, excluding major holidays on which the CTA is
running on a Sunday schedule). With the buses, inspect the rack
closely for wear or damage and be absolutely certain that the bike
is secured before you go, lest it fall off in traffic (and be
immediately flattened by the bus). The CTA will fight tooth and
nail to avoid reimbursing you for the loss, and the driver might
not stop to let you retrieve it.
Bikes may be rented from the North Avenue Beach House (
Lincoln Park), Navy Pier,
(
Near
North), the Millennium Park bike station (
Loop), and from
several bike shops in the city. Another option is to contact the
terrific
Working Bikes Cooperative [32], an all-volunteer group
of bike lovers that collects and refurbishes bikes, and then sells
a few in Chicago to support their larger project of shipping bikes
to Africa and South America. You could buy a cheap bike and donate
it back when you're done, or even spend a day or two working as a
volunteer.
For an opportunity to connect with the local bike community and
take a memorable trip through the city, don't miss the
Critical Mass [33] rides on the last
Friday of every month, starting from Daley Plaza in the
Loop (5:30PM). With
numbers on their side, the hundreds or even thousands of bike
riders wind up taking over entire streets along the way, with
themed routes that are voted upon at the outset of the trip. Anyone
is free to join or fall away wherever they like. Police are
generally cooperative — take cues from more experienced riders.
Learn
Several major and minor universities call Chicago home. The
University of Chicago and
Northwestern
University are undoubtedly the most prestigious among
them. The University of Chicago's Gothic campus is in
Hyde Park,
which is, famously, "home to more Nobel Prizes per square kilometer
than any other neighborhood on Earth." Further north, in the
Bronzeville area, is the
Illinois Institute of Technology, which has
notable programs in engineering and architecture.
Northwestern University has its main campus in
Evanston, just north of
Chicago, but it also has campuses in the
Near
North off Michigan Ave, including its medical, law, and
business schools.
On the North Side, there are two major Catholic universities
with over a hundred years in Chicago:
DePaul
University, in
Lincoln Park, and
Loyola University, in
Rogers
Park. Both schools also have campuses in the
Loop.
Rush
University Medical School, on the Near West Side, traces
its roots back even further, to 1837. Dating back to 1891,
North Park University serves as another fine
private liberal arts university in
Albany Park on the Northwest
Side.
A handful of schools in the
Loop attract students in the creative
arts.
Columbia College has an enviable location on
Michigan Avenue, and its programs in creative writing and
photography are well-regarded. The
School of the Art
Institute is generally regarded as one of the top three
art and design schools in the country and is one of the few art
schools that does not require its students to declare majors. The
Illinois Institute of Art specializes in different
fields of art and design. The main campus of
Roosevelt
University, former home to Chicago heavyweights like
Harold Washington and Ramsey Lewis, is in the Auditorium Building
on the corner of Michigan Avenue and Congress Parkway.
Northwestern University has its main campus in
Evanston, just north of
Chicago, but it also has campuses in the Loop including its
medical, law, and business schools.
To the west of the Loop, built over the remains of Little Italy
and Maxwell Street neighborhoods is the brutalist
Near
West Side campus of the
University of Illinois at
Chicago (UIC), the second-largest member of the Illinois
state university system.
Chicago still loves Carl Sandburg and his poems, but the city
shucked off the hog butcher's apron a long time ago. In terms of
industry, there's little that distinguishes Chicago from any other
major city in America, save for size. The
Chicago Board of
Trade [35]
and
Chicago Mercantile Exchange [36] are among the biggest
employers, with stables of traders and stock wizards.
Boeing [37]
moved its headquarters to Chicago amid much fanfare a few years
ago;
United Airlines [38] is another international
company with headquarters in town.
Abbott Labs [39], just outside city limits,
is the biggest employer of foreign nationals in scientific fields.
The Big Five consulting firms all have one or more offices in the
Loop. And there's
always construction work in Chicago, but with a strong union
presence in the city, it's not easy for a newcomer to break into
without an introduction.
For younger workers, the museums in the
Loop and the
Near South are always looking for
low-paid, high-enthusiasm guides, and the retail outlets on the
Magnificent
Mile also need seasonal help. And with so many colleges and
universities in the city, study abroad opportunities abound.
In Chicago, business is politics, and there's one word in
Chicago politics:
clout. The principal measure of
clout is how many jobs you can arrange for your friends. Hence, if
you want to work in Chicago, start asking around — email someone
from your country's embassy or consulate and see if they have any
leads, or figure out if there is a cultural association that might
be able to help you. It's no coincidence that the Mayor's Office
[40]
employs scores of
Irish
workers every summer. If you happen to contact somebody who met the
right person at a fundraiser a few days ago, you might fall into a
cushy job or a dream internship; it's worth a try.
Buy
Whatever you need, you can buy it in Chicago, on a budget or in
luxury. The most famous shopping street in Chicago is a stretch of
Michigan Avenue known as
The Magnificent Mile, in
the
Near
North area. It includes many designer boutiques, and several
multi-story malls anchored by large department stores like 900 N
Michigan and Water Tower Place. Additional brands are available
from off-strip shops to the south and west of Michigan.
State Street used to be a great street for
department stores in the
Loop, but it's now a shadow of its former
self, with Carson Pirie Scott's landmark Louis Sullivan-designed
building closed, and invading forces from
New York holding the former Marshall
Field's building hostage under the name Macy's. Discounts can still
be found at places like Filene's Basement, though.
For a classic Chicago souvenir, pick up a box of Frango
Mints, much-loved mint chocolates that were originally
offered by Marshall Field's and are still available at Macy's
stores. Although no longer made in the thirteenth-floor kitchen of
the State Street store, the original recipe appears to still be in
use, which pleases the loyal crowds fond of the flavor — and too
bad for anyone looking to avoid trans-fats.
However, for a more unique shopping experience, check out the
fun, eclectic stores in
Lincoln Square, or the
cutting-edge shops in
Bucktown and
Wicker
Park, which is also the place to go for
music
fiends — although there are also key vinyl drops in other
parts of the city as well.
Southport in
Lakeview and
Armitage in
Lincoln Park also have
browser-friendly fashion boutiques.
For
art or
designer home
goods, River North is the place to go. Centered between
the Merchandise Mart and the Chicago Avenue Brown Line "L" stop in
the
Near
North, River North's gallery district boasts the largest arts
and design district in North America outside of Manhattan. The
entire area is walkable and makes for fun window-shopping.
Goods from around the world are available at the
import
stores in Chicago's many ethnic neighborhoods; check
See for descriptions and
district articles for directions.
If you are the type that loves to browse through
independent bookstores,
Hyde Park
has a stunning assortment of dusty used bookstores selling
beat-up-paperbacks to rare 17th century originals, and the world's
largest academic bookstore.
Printer's Row in the
Near
South is also a great stop for book lovers.
Chicago's deep dish pizza is incredible
Chicago is one of the great restaurant towns in America. If
you're looking for a specific kind of cuisine, check out the
neighborhoods.
Greektown, the
Devon
Ave Desi corridor,
Chinatown, and
Chatham's soul food and
barbecue are just the tip of the iceberg. Other areas are more
eclectic:
Lincoln Square and Albany Park
have unrivaled Middle Eastern, German, and Korean food, while
Uptown offers
nearly the whole
Southeast Asian continent with Ghanaian,
Nigerian, contemporary American, stylish Japanese, and down-home
Swedish a few blocks away.
If you're interested in celebrity chefs and unique creations,
Lincoln Park and
Wicker
Park have plenty of award-winners.
River
North has several good upscale restaurants, but don't waste
your time on tourist traps like Rainforest Cafe, Cheesecake Factory
or Hard Rock Cafe. In fact, you should never submit to standing in
line—there are always equally good restaurants nearby. No matter
what you enjoy, you'll have a chance to eat well in Chicago, and
you won't need to spend a lot of money doing it—unless you want to,
of course.
But while Chicago has a world class dining scene downtown, it is
the low-end where it truly distinguishes itself. No other city on
earth takes fast food so seriously; for those who don't concern
themselves with calorie counting, Chicago is cheap, greasy heaven.
A couple "culinary specialties" in particular deserve further
description.
Chicago pizza
Chicago's most prominent contribution to world cuisine might be
the
deep dish pizza. Delivery chains as far away
as
Kyoto market "Chicago-style
pizza," but the only place to be sure you're getting the real thing
is in Chicago. To make a deep dish pizza, a thin layer of dough is
laid into a deep round pan and pulled up the sides, and then meats
and vegetables — Italian sausage, onions, bell peppers, mozzarella
cheese, and more — are lined on the crust. At last, tomato sauce
goes on top, and the pizza is baked. It's gooey, messy, not
recommended by doctors, and delicious. When you dine on deep dish
pizza, don't wear anything you were hoping to wear again soon. Some
nationally-known deep dish pizza hubs are Pizzeria UNO and DUE,
Gino's East, Giordano's, and Lou Malnati's, but plenty of local
favorites exist. Ask around — people won't be shy about giving you
their opinion.
But deep dish is not the end of the line in a city that takes
its pizza so seriously. Chicago also prides itself on its
distinctive thin-crust pizza and stuffed pizzas. The Chicago
thin crust has a thin, cracker-like, crunchy
crust, which somehow remains soft and doughy on the top side.
Toppings and a lot of a thin, spiced Italian tomato sauce go under
the mozzarella cheese, and the pizza is sliced into squares. If you
are incredulous that Chicago's pizza preeminence extends into the
realm of the thin crust, head
south of Midway to Vito and
Nick's, which is widely regarded among Chicago gourmands as the
standard bearer for the city.
The
stuffed pizza is a monster, enough to make
an onlooker faint. Start with the idea of a deep dish, but then
find a much deeper dish and stuff a
lot more toppings
under the cheese. Think deep-dish apple pie, but pizza. Allow 45
minutes to an hour for pizza places to make one of these and allow
3-4 extra notches on your belt for the ensuing weight gain.
Arguably the best stuffed pizza in town is at Bella Bacino's in the
Loop, which
somehow is not greasy, but other excellent vendors include
Giordano's, Gino's, and Edwardo's.
A charred Chicago-style hot dog with all the trappings
This may come as a surprise to New Yorkers, but the Chicago hot
dog is the king of all hot dogs — indeed, it is considered the
perfect hot dog. Perhaps due to the city's history
of Polish and German immigration, Chicago takes its dogs
way more seriously than the rest of the country. A Chicago
hot dog is always all-beef (usually Vienna beef), always served on
a poppy-seed bun, and topped with what looks like a full salad of
mustard, diced tomatoes, a dill pickle spear, sport (chili)
peppers, a generous sprinkling of celery salt, diced onion, and a
sweet-pickle relish endemic-to-Chicago that is dyed an odd, vibrant
bright-green color. It's a full meal, folks.
Ketchup is regarded as an abomination on a proper Chicago-style
hot dog. Self-respecting establishments will refuse orders to put
the ketchup on the dog, and many have signs indicating that they
don't serve it; truly serious hot dog joints don't even allow the
condiment on the premises. The reason for Chicago's ketchup
aversion is simple — ketchup contains sugar, which overwhelms the
taste of the beef and prevents its proper enjoyment. Hence,
ketchup's replacement with diced tomatoes. Similarly, Chicagoans
eschew fancy mustards that would overwhelm the flavor of the meat
in favor of simple yellow mustard. And for the hungry visiting New
Yorkers, the same goes for sugary sauerkraut — just
no.
At most hot dog places, you will have the option to try a
Maxwell Street Polish instead. Born on the
eponymous street of the
Near West Side, the Polish is an
all-beef sausage on a bun, with fewer condiments than the Chicago
hot dog: usually just grilled onions, mustard, and a few chili
peppers.
In a tragic, bizarre twist of fate, the areas of Chicago most
visited by tourists (i.e.,
the Loop) lack proper Chicago hot dog
establishments. If you are downtown and want to experience a
Chicago hot dog done right, the nearest safe bet is
Portillo's. Although, if you're up
for a little hot dog adventure, you can eat one right at the
source, at the
Vienna Beef Factory deli.
Sadly, both baseball parks botch their dogs.
Italian Beef
The Italian Beef sandwich completes the Chicago triumvirate of
tasty greasy treats. The main focus of the sandwich is the beef,
and serious vendors will serve meat of a surprisingly good quality,
which is slow-roasted, and thinly shaved before being loaded
generously onto chewy, white, Italian-style bread. Two sets of
options will come flying at you, so prepare yourself: sweet peppers
or hot, and dipped or not. The "sweet" peppers are sautéed bell
peppers, while the hots are a mixed Chicago giardiniera. The dip,
of course, is a sort of French dip of the sandwich back into the
beef broth. (Warning: dipped Italian Beefs are sloppy!) If you are
in the mood, you may be able to get an Italian Beef with cheese
melted over the beef, although travelers looking for the "authentic
Italian Beef" perhaps should not stray so far from tradition.
The Italian Beef probably was invented by Italian-American
immigrants working in the Union Stockyards on the
Southwest Side, who could only
afford to take home the tough, lowest-quality meat and therefore
had a need to slow-roast it, shave it into thin slices, and dip it
just to get it in chewable form. But today the sandwich has found a
lucrative home downtown, where it clogs the arteries and delights
the taste buds of the Chicago workforce during lunch break. Some of
the city's favorite downtown vendors include Luke's Italian Beef in
the
Loop and Mr.
Beef in the
Near North, while the Portillo's
chain is another solid option.
|
Four fried chickens and a coke...
With the Great Migration came much of what was best about the
South: blues, jazz, barbecue — but following a legendary meal at
which a young, hungry Harold Pierce saw the last piece of bird flee
his grasp into the mouth of the local preacher, Harold made it his
mission to add fried chicken to that prestigious list, and to
ensure that no South Side Chicagoan ever run out.
Harold's Chicken Shack, a.k.a. the Fried Chicken King, is a South
Side institution like no other. The Chicago-style fried chicken is
considered by many connaisseurs to be some of the nation's best
(certainly in the North), and it is fried in a home-style mix of
beef tallow and vegetable oil, then covered with sauce (hot or
mild). Crucially, it is always cooked to order — ensuring that
essential layer of grease between the skin and the meat. A half
chicken meal can come as cheap as $4 and includes coleslaw, white
bread, and sauce-drenched fries — make like a local and wrap the
fries in the bread.
Initially, the fried chicken chain spread throughout black
neighborhoods, which were ignored by other fast food chains, but in
later years the franchise has extended its greasy fingers to the
West and North Sides, as well as downtown. While chances are you
will not find better fried chicken outside of Harold's walls, the
quality, pricing, and character vary between individual locations.
Your safest bets are on the South Side — if you are served through
bullet-proof glass under signs bearing a chef chasing a chicken
with a hatchet, rest assured you are getting the best.
|
Drink
Chicago is a drinking town, and you can find bars and pubs in
every part of the city. It is believed that Chicago has the second
highest bars-per-capita in the U.S. (after
San Francisco). Be prepared to be asked
for identification to verify your age, even at neighborhood dive
bars.
Smoking is banned in Chicago bars (and
restaurants).
The best place to drink for drinking's sake is
Wicker
Park and its neighbor
Bucktown, which have a
world-class stock of quality dive bars.
North Center and Roscoe
Village are also a great (and underrated) destination for the art
of the cheap beer and the beer garden. Beware the bars in
Lakeview near Wrigley
Field, though, which are packed on weekends, and jam-packed all day
whenever the Cubs are playing. Just to the south,
Lincoln Park has bars and
beer gardens to indulge those who miss college, and some trendy
clubs for the neighborhood's notorious high-spending Trixies.
Ill-informed tourists converge upon the nightclubs of
Rush and
Division St. The city's best DJs spin elsewhere, the best
drinks are served elsewhere, and the cheapest beers are served
elsewhere; the hottest of-the-moment clubs and in-the-know
celebrities are usually elsewhere, too. For the last few years the
West Loop's warehouse bars were
the place to be, but more recently the River North neighborhood has
been making a comeback. Still, the Rush/Division bars do huge
business. This area includes the "Viagra Triangle," where Chicago's
wealthy older men hang out with women in their early 20s.
Streeterville, immediately adjacent, exchanges the dance floors for
high-priced hotel bars and piano lounges.
Although good dance music can be found in Wicker Park and the
surrounding area, the best places to dance in the city are the
expensive see and be seen clubs in River North and the open-to-all
(except perhaps bachelorette parties) clubs in gay-friendly
Boystown, which are a lot
of fun for people of any sexual orientation.
Jazz and Blues
See The
Jazz Track for a wealth of information about current and
historic jazz clubs in Chicago.
The Lower Mississippi River Valley is known for its music;
New Orleans has jazz,
and
Memphis has blues.
Chicago, though located far away from the valley, has both. Former
New Orleans and Memphis residents brought jazz and blues to Chicago
as they came north for a variety of reasons: the World's Columbian
Exposition of 1893 brought a lot of itinerant musicians to town,
and the city's booming economy kept them coming through the
Great Migration. Chicago was
the undisputed capital of early jazz between 1917-1928, wih masters
like Joe King Oliver, Louis Armstrong, Jimmie Noone, Johnny Dodds,
Earl Hines, and Jelly Roll Morton. Most of Chicago's historic jazz
clubs are on the South Side, particularly in
Bronzeville, but the North Side has
the can't-miss
Green Mill in
Uptown.
The blues were in Chicago long before the car chase and the
mission from God, but
The Blues Brothers sealed Chicago as
the home of the blues in the popular consciousness. Fortunately,
the city has the chops to back that up.
Maxwell
Street [41] (
Near
West Side) was the heart and soul of Chicago blues, but the
wrecking ball, driven by the University of Illinois at Chicago, has
taken a brutal toll. Residents have been fighting to save what
remains. For blues history, it doesn't get much better than
Willie Dixon's Blues Heaven Foundation (
Near
South), and
Bronzeville, the former "Black
Metropolis," is a key stop as well. Performance venues run the
gamut from tiny, cheap blues bars all over the city to big,
expensive places like
Buddy Guy's Legends (
Loop) and the
original
House of Blues (
Near
North).
But don't let yourself get
too wrapped up in the past,
because Chicago blues is anything but. No other city in the world
can compete with Chicago's long list of blues-soaked neighborhood
dives and lounges. The North Side's blues clubs favor tradition in
their music, and are usually the most accessible to visitors, but
offer a slightly watered down experience from the funkier, more
authentic blues bars on the South and Far West Sides, where most of
Chicago's blues musicians live and hang. If one club could claim to
be the home of the real Chicago blues,
Lee's Unleaded
Blues in
Chatham-South Shore would
probably win the title. But there are scores of worthy blues joints
all around the city (many of which are a lot easier to visit via
public transport). A visit to one of these off-the-beaten-path
blues dives is considerably more adventurous than a visit to the
touristy House of Blues, but the experiences born of such
adventures have been known to reward visitors with a life-long
passion for the blues.
Although playing second fiddle to the blues in the city's
collective consciousness, jazz thrives in Chicago, too, thanks in
no small part to members of the Association for the Advancement of
Creative Musicians (AACM) and their residencies at clubs like
The Velvet Lounge and
The Jazz
Showcase (both of which see regular national acts) (
Near
South),
The New Apartment Lounge (
Chatham-South Shore) and
The Hideout (
Bucktown), with more expensive
national touring acts downtown at
The Chicago
Theater (
Loop). If you are staying downtown, the
Velvet Lounge will be your best bet, as it is an easy cab ride, and
its high-profile performances will rarely disappoint.
Fans should time their visits to coincide with
Blues
Fest in June, and
Jazz Fest over Labor
Day Weekend. Both take place in Grant Park (
Loop).
Concerts
Wicker Park and
Bucktown are the main place to
go for indie rock shows: the
Double Door and the
Empty Bottle are the best-known venues, but there
are plenty of smaller ones as well. In
Lakeview, the
Metro is a beloved concert hole, with
Schubas,
The Vic Theatre, and the
Abbey Pub nearby (the latter on the
Far Northwest Side). Other
mid-sized rock, hip-hop and R&B shows take place at the
Riviera and the awesome
Aragon
Ballroom in
Uptown. The
Near
South has become an underrated destination for great shows as
well.
The legendary Chicago Theater
The
Park West in
Lincoln Park has light
jazz, light rock, and other shows you'd sit down for; so does
Navy Pier (
Near North), particularly in the
summer. The venerable
Chicago Theater in the
Loop is better-known
for its sign than for anything else, but it has rock, jazz, gospel,
and spoken-word performances by authors like David Sedaris. The
Chicago Symphony Orchestra (CSO) is the main
bulwark in the city for classical and classy jazz, with occasional
curve-balls like Björk. You'll find musicians from the CSO doing
outreach all over the city, along with their counterparts at the
Lyric Opera. Both are in the
Loop.
A few big concerts are held at the
UIC
Pavilion, the
Congress Theater, and the
United Center on the
Near
West Side every year, and some
huge concerts have
taken place at
Soldier Field (
Near
South). The
Petrillo Bandshell in
Grant Park and the
Pritzker
Pavilion in
Millennium Park, both in the
Loop, tend to host
big, eclectic shows and festivals in the summer, which are
sometimes free.
Otherwise, most big shows are out in the suburbs, primarily at
the
Allstate Arena and the
Rosemont
Theater in
Rosemont, the
Sears Centre in
Hoffman Estates, the
First Midwest Bank
Amphitheatre in Tinley Park,
Star Plaza
in
Indiana, and the
Alpine Valley Music Theater over the
Wisconsin border. You'll
also have to head out to the suburbs for
Ravinia,
which features upscale classical, jazz, and blues outdoors
throughout the summer. See
Chicagoland for details on suburban
venues.
Sleep
Chicago hosts many major conventions each year and has plenty of
places to stay. The majority are either at
O'Hare Airport or downtown
in the
Loop and
the
Near
North (near the Magnificent Mile). If you want to explore the
city, aim for downtown — a hotel near O'Hare is good for visiting
one thing and one thing only, and that's O'Hare. However, if you
have a specific interest in mind, there are hotels throughout the
city, and getting away from downtown will give you more of a sense
of other neighborhoods. You'll appreciate that if you're in town
for more than a couple of days. Make sure that where you're staying
is within your comfort level before committing to stay there,
though. More far flung transient hotels will be suitable for those
seeking to relive Jack Kerouac's seedy adventures around the
country, but may alarm and disgust the average traveler.
Budget-priced places are usually pretty far from the
Loop, so when you're
booking, remember that Chicago is vast. Travelers on a budget
should consider accommodations away from the city center which can
be easily reached via any of the several CTA train lines. There is
a hostel in the
Loop and two others near the universities
in
Lincoln Park and
Rogers
Park, all of which are interesting neighborhoods in their own
right, and close to the L for access to the rest of the city. For
deals on mid-range hotels, there are good options far out from the
center by
Midway and in
North
Lincoln.
Contact
Internet
The first Internet cafe in the United States was opened in
Chicago, but they never really caught on here. There are still a
few, though; check individual district articles. If you have a
computer with you, free wireless Internet access is now
standard-issue at coffee shops throughout the city — only the big
chains like Starbucks charge for it. Most hotels above the
transient level offer free wi-fi, too.
The good news is that all branches of the
Chicago Public
Library system offer
free internet
access, via public terminals and free, password-free,
public wireless. If you do not have a Chicago library card, but you
have a photo ID that shows you do not live in Chicago, you can get
a temporary permit from the library information desk. (If you
are from Chicago and don't have a library card, though,
all you can get is a stern look and a brief lecture on how
Chicagoans need to support the library system.) The most centrally
located branch is the giant
Harold Washington
Library in the
Loop, but there are branch libraries in
every part of the city — again, see individual district
articles.
Telephones
312 was the area code for all of Chicago for a
long time; it's still the code of choice for the
Loop, and most of the
Near
North and
Near South.
773
surrounds the center, covering everything else within city
limits.
Suburban areas close to the city use 847
(north/northwest), 708 (south),
815 (southwest), and 630
(west).
Violent crime rates by neighborhood
As in almost the entire United States, dial 911
to get emergency help. Dial 311 for all
non-emergency situations in Chicago.
Despite a big decline in the crime rate from the 1970's and
'80's, Chicago is still a big city with big city problems. There
are run-down areas within a few blocks of some well-traveled places
such as near the United Center and US Cellular Field. The majority
of the city's violent crimes occur within a relatively small number
of neighborhoods well off the beaten path in the South and West
Sides, but given the chance nature of crime, you should exercise
the usual precautions wherever you go. And just because a
neighborhood has a bad reputation, you might still have a perfectly
good time there, as long as it falls within your comfort level.
Take caution in the
Loop at night — after working hours, the
Loop gets quiet and dark in a hurry west of State Street, but
you'll be fine near hotels, and close to Michigan Avenue and the
lake. When disembarking a crowded CTA train, especially in the
downtown-area subways, be wary of purse snatchers.
Beggars are common
downtown. They are very unlikely to pose
any kind of problem, though. Some sell a local newspaper called
Streetwise to make a living.
In general, common sense will keep you safe in Chicago: avoid
unfamiliar side streets at night, stay out of alleys at night, know
where you're going when you set out, stick to crowded areas, and
keep a $20 bill on hand for cab fare as a bail-out option.
Dress appropriately for the weather. Chicago's winter is
famously windy and cold, so cover exposed skin and wear layers in
the winter, but heat exhaustion is an equal risk in the summer
months, especially July and August. Stay off the road during a
snowstorm. Chicago's streets and sanitation department generally
does a good job clearing the major roads in the center of the city,
but the neighborhoods can take longer, and the
construction-littered expressways are anyone's guess.
- The Chicago Tribune (The Trib), [42]. The Tribune is Chicago's oldest daily, recently
converted into a tabloid format for newsstand purchases. New
ownership has shed much of the Trib's former prestige with a
debt-leveraged purchase and forced bankruptcy, widespread staff
layoffs, and an ill-advised redesign. edit
- The Chicago Sun-Times, [43]. The Sun-Times is Chicago's other "major"
newspaper. It has a long-standing reputation for aggressive (some
might say "sensationalist") investigative journalism. It has also
been teetering on the verge of oblivion for some time, but at least
it has Roger Ebert. edit
- The
Redeye, [44]. Redeye is a free weekdays-only newspaper
produced by the Tribune. Although its covers appear to report from
some parallel universe where topics like sandwiches and being tired
at work are the top stories of the day, it does have basic news
coverage inside along with entertainment gossip. edit
- The Chicago Defender, [45]. The Defender is Chicago's biggest
African-American daily, and it played a major role in the city's
African-American history. Its distribution network today is
comparatively small, though. edit
- Hola
Hoy, [46].
Hola Hoy produces a free Spanish-language
newspaper with wide distribution. edit
- The Chicago Reader, [47]. The Reader is a free weekly newspaper
distributed throughout the city each Wednesday. It includes
extensive listings of arts, music, and events. Nobody knows more
about Chicago than the Reader, but it's definitely oriented toward
locals. edit
- Crain's Chicago Business, [48]. Crain's is a long-standing weekly newspaper
covering the Chicago area business community, with a dash of
politics and lifestyle — definitely worth a look if you're in town
on business. edit
- New
City, [49]. New City is a free weekly alternative arts and
entertainment magazine, distributed every Wednesday. Event listings
and local content are skimpy, but it is free. edit
- Time Out Chicago, [50]. Time Out produces a weekly magazine available
at most newsstands and bookstores. Its listings for events, bars,
and restaurants are by far the most comprehensive and easiest to
use for visitors to the city. edit
The spectacular Bahá'í Temple
There are places of worship all over the city; the front desk of
your hotel will almost certainly be able to direct you to one
nearby. If not, though, the following are centrally located in
either the
Loop or
the
Near
North, unless otherwise noted.
For churches of specific Orthodoxies, check in neighborhoods
that feature communities with ties to that region. There's a
majestic Orthodox church in
Ukrainian Village, for example.
Evangelical Christian ministries are mostly on the South Side, with
some historic churches in
Bronzeville. For the Baha'i faith,
visit the
Baha'i Temple in
Wilmette, easily accessible by the CTA Purple
Line.
- Anshe Sholom B'nai Israel, 540 W Melrose
St (Belmont Red
Line), ☎ +1 773
248-9200, [51]. Modern Orthodox Judaism. In a remarkably
beautiful building by the lake. Shacharit Su 8:30AM, M,Th 6:45AM,
Tu,W,F 7AM; Mincha Su-Th 7:45PM. edit
- Armitage Baptist Church, 2451 N Kedzie
Blvd. (Logan Square
Blue Line), ☎ +1 773
384-4673, [52]. Sunday worship 9:30, 11AM, and 6PM.
edit
- BAPS Shri Swaminarayan Mandir, 4N739 IL Route 59,
Bartlett, ☎ +1 630 213
2277 (fax: +1 630
213-2088), [53].
Everyday worship 11:30 AM Aarti.
Free. edit
- Chicago's Central Synagogue, 15 W Delaware
Place (Chicago Red
Line), ☎ +1 312
787-0450, [54]. Conservative Judaism. Shabbat services Sa
9:15AM. edit
- Chicago Loop Synagogue, 16 S Clark
St (Madison/Wabash
Brown/Purple/Green/Orange/Pink Line), ☎ +1 312 346-7370, [55].
Traditional Judaism. Shachris Sa 9AM, Su
9:30AM; Mincha Sa 3:45PM, Su 4:15PM, M-F 1:05PM; Maariv
4:45PM. edit
- Chicago Sinai Congregation, 15 W Delaware
Pl (Chicago Red
Line), ☎ +1 312
867-7000, [56]. Liberal Reform Judaism. Torah study Sa 10:30AM;
Shabbat Eve service F 6:15PM, Sunday service 11AM. edit
- Downtown Islamic Center, 231 S State
St (Jackson Red
Line), ☎ +1 312
939-9095, [57]. Open M-F 10:30AM-5:30PM. Friday prayers: Khutba
1:05PM / Aqama 1:30PM (1st Friday Jamaa), Khutba 2:05PM / Aqama
2:30PM (2nd Friday Jamaa). edit
- Hindu Temple of Greater Chicago, 10915 Lemont Rd, Lemont,
IL, ☎ +1 630
972-0300,
[58]. M-F 10AM-8PM. 25 miles southwest of Chicago. Call temple to
schedule priest services. edit
- Holy Name Cathedral, 735 N State St (Chicago Red Line), [59]. Open for private prayer or reflection from
5:30AM-7PM. Flagship of the
Catholic Archdiocese in Chicago. Sunday Masses at 7:00, 8:15, 9:30
(incl. sign language), 11:00 AM, and 12:30, 5:15 PM. See website
for Saturday, weekdays, and Holy Days schedules, as well as other
sacraments. edit
- Saint James Cathedral, 65 E Huron
St (Chicago Red
Line), ☎ +1 312
787-7360, [60]. Episcopalian services. Office hours M-F
9AM-4PM. Eucharist Su 8AM,10:30AM, W 5:30PM, Th,F 12:10PM
edit
Foreign consulates
Here's a quick list of all foreign consulates in Chicago:
Argentina, 205 N Michigan Ave,
#4209. edit
Australia, 123 N Wacker
Dr, ☎ +1 312
419-1480. edit
Austria, 400 N Michigan
Ave, ☎ +1 312
222-1516. edit
Bahamas, 8600 W Bryn Mawr
Ave, ☎ +1 312
693-1500. edit
Bolivia, 1111 Superior St,
#309, ☎ +1 708
343-1234. (Melrose
Park) edit
Bosnia &
Herzegovina, 151 E Chicago Ave, ☎ +1 951-1245. edit
Brazil, 401 N Michigan Ave,
#1850, ☎ +1 312
464-0244. edit
Bulgaria, 737 N Michigan Ave,
#2105, ☎ +1 312
867-1904. edit
Canada, 180 N Stetson Ave,
#2400, ☎ +1 312
616-1860. edit
Chile, 875 N Michigan Ave,
#3352, ☎ +1 312
654-8780. edit
China, 100 E Erie St,
#500, ☎ +1 312
803-0095. edit
Colombia, 500 N Michigan
Ave, ☎ +1 312
923-1196. edit
Costa Rica, 203 N Wabash
Ave, ☎ +1 312
263-2772. edit
Croatia, 737 N Michigan Ave,
#1030, ☎ +1 312
482-9902. edit
Czech Republic,
205 N Michigan
Ave, ☎ +1 312
861-1037. edit
Denmark, 211 E Ontario St,
#1800, ☎ +1 312
787-8780. edit
Dominican
Republic, 3228 W North Ave, ☎ +1 312 236-2447. edit
Ecuador, 30 S Michigan
Ave, ☎ +1 312
338-1002. edit
Egypt, 500 N Michigan Ave,
#1900, ☎ +1 312
828-9162. edit
El Salvador, 104 S Michigan
Ave, ☎ +1 312
332-1393. edit
Estonia, 410 N Michigan
Ave, ☎ +1 312
595-2527. edit
Finland, 362 E Burlington St,
#2, ☎ +1 708
442-0635. (Riverside) edit
France, 737 N Michigan
Ave, ☎ +1 312
787-5359. edit
Germany, 676 N Michigan
Ave, ☎ +1 312
202-0480. edit
Greece, 650 N Saint Clair
St, ☎ +1 312
335-3915. edit
Guatemala, 205 N Michigan Ave
#2350, ☎ + 1 312 332
1587. edit
Haiti, 220 S State St,
#2110, ☎ +1 312
922-4004. edit
Honduras, 4506 W Fullerton
Ave, ☎ +1 773
342-8281. edit
Hungary, 500 N Michigan
Ave, ☎ +1 312
670-4079. edit
India, 455 N Cityfront Plaza
Dr, ☎ +1 312
595-0405. edit
Indonesia, 211 W Wacker
Dr, ☎ +1 312
920-1880. edit
Ireland, 400 N Michigan
Ave, ☎ +1 312
337-1868. edit
Israel, 111 E Wacker Dr,
#1308, ☎ +1 312
297-4800. edit
Italy, 500 N Michigan
Ave, ☎ +1 312
467-1550. edit
|
Jamaica, 4655 S Martin Luther King
Dr, ☎ +1 773
373-8988. edit
Japan, 737 N Michigan Ave,
#1100, ☎ +1 312
280-0430. edit
Jordan, 12559 S Holiday
Dr, ☎ +1 708
272-6666. (Alsip)
edit
Korea, 455 N Cityfront Plaza Dr,
#2700, ☎ +1 312
822-0443. edit
Latvia, 3239 Arnold
Ln, ☎ +1 847
498-6880. (Northbrook)
edit
Lithuania, 211 E Ontario St,
#1500, ☎ +1 312
397-0382. edit
Luxembourg, 1417 Braeborn
Ct, ☎ +1 847
520-5995. (Wheeling)
edit
Malaysia, 875 N Michigan Ave,
#4101, ☎ +1 312
280-9632. edit
Mexico, 20 N Wacker Dr,
#750, ☎ +1 312
738-2531. edit
Montenegro, 201 E Ohio
St, ☎ +1 312
670-6707. edit
Nepal, 100 W Monroe St,
#500, ☎ +1 312
263-1250. edit
Netherlands, 303 E Wacker
Dr, ☎ +1 312
856-0110. edit
New Zealand, 8600 W Bryn Mawr
Ave, ☎ +1 773
714-9461. edit
Norway, 900 Lively
Blvd, ☎ +1 847
364-7374. (Elk Grove) edit
Pakistan, 333 N Michigan
Ave, ☎ +1 312
781-1831. edit
Panama, 9048 S Commercial
Ave, ☎ +1 773
933-0395. edit
Philippines, 30 N Michigan
Ave, ☎ +1 312
332-6458. edit
Peru, 180 N Michigan Ave, #1800,
☎ +1 312 782-1599. edit
Poland, 820 N Orleans St,
#335, ☎ +1 312
337-8166. edit
Portugal, 1955 N New England
Ave, ☎ +1 773
889-7405. edit
Romania, 737 N Michigan
Ave, ☎ +1 312
573-1315. edit
Serbia, 201 E Ohio
St, ☎ +1 312
670-6707. edit
Singapore, 10 South Dearborn St,
#4800, ☎ +1 312
853-7555. edit
South Africa, 200 S Michigan Ave,
#600, ☎ +1 312
939-7929. edit
Spain, 180 N Michigan Ave,
#1500, ☎ +1 312
782-4588. edit
Sweden, 150 N Michigan Ave,
#1250, ☎ +1 312
781-6262. edit
Switzerland, 737 N Michigan Ave,
#2301, ☎ +1 312
915-0061. edit
Thailand, 700 N Rush
St, ☎ +1 312
644-3129. edit
Turkey, 360 N Michigan Ave,
#1405, ☎ +1 312
621-3340. edit
Ukraine, 10 E Huron
St, ☎ +1 312
642-3129. edit
United Kingdom,
400 N Michigan Ave,
#1300, ☎ +1 312
970-3800. edit
Uruguay, 875 N Michigan Ave,
#1422, ☎ +1 312
642-3430. edit
Venezuela, 20 N Wacker Dr,
#750, ☎ +1 312
236-9655. edit
|
- There are forest preserves in the far north, northwest, and
southwest sides, and into the nearby Chicagoland suburbs. They are excellent for
biking, jogging, and picnics.
- Evanston is over the
northern border of Chicago, approximately 45 minutes from downtown
on the CTA, or half an hour via car (during light traffic). It has
shops, restaurants, bars and Northwestern University, as well as
some historic homes and lovely lakefront. Just beyond that is Wilmette, with the
fascinating Baha'i Temple.
- Ravinia is the
summer home of the Chicago Symphony Orchestra. Metra's UP-North
line stops at the park gates, and the return train waits for
late-ending concerts. The arts and crafts style architecture
coupled with a dazzling array of acts make this a classic summer
destination for Chicagoans and tourists. Bring food, a blanket,
wine, and a citronella candle; buy anything you forgot
on-site.
- Brookfield is home to the Chicagoland area's other world-class
zoo, the Brookfield Zoo.
- Historic Galena, three hours west-northwest of
Chicago via I-90 and US-20, is great for hiking, sightseeing, and
antiquing.
- Six Flags Great America, in Gurnee (40 miles north on I-94), has the biggest
and wildest roller coasters in Illinois.
- Peoria, in some ways a miniature
Chicago, is a little over three hours away.
- The Quad Cities
— about 2.5–3 hours away via I-55 to I-80 or I-90 to I-74 — bridge
the Mississippi River forming a unique metropolitan area on the
border of Iowa and Illinois.
- The Indiana Dunes are a
moderate drive away, and are also accessible via the South Shore
commuter rail. If you've enjoyed the beaches in Chicago, you owe
the Indiana Dunes a stop — that's where all the sand came
from.
- Gary is just over the border
on the Skyway, with a skyline that rivals Chicago's for strength of
effect — industrial monstrosity, in this case — with casinos, urban
ruins, and a few entries by Prairie School architects Frank Lloyd
Wright and George Maher.
- Also just over the Skyway (before you reach Gary) is East Chicago's
bizarre 19th century planned community, Marktown,
which looks like a small English village totally incongruous with the
gigantic steel mills and the world's largest oil refinery which
surround it.
- Further along the lake from the Indiana Dunes are Michigan's
dunes and summer resorts in Harbor Country. Keep your eyes open:
Mayor Daley, University of Chicago President Robert Zimmer, and
other notables summer here.
- Detroit has many of
Chicago's most hated sports rivals, and although fallen on hard
times, it also has a musical and architectural heritage to compare
with the Windy City.
- Lake Geneva, across the Wisconsin border, is the
other big summer getaway. Nearby are the Kettle Moraine state
parks, with good mountain biking.
- Milwaukee and its
venerable breweries are less than two hours from Chicago on I-94,
via Amtrak, and by intercity bus services.
- Spring Green
is an easy weekend trip from Chicago, about three and a half hours
from town on I-90. It's the home of two unique architectural
wonders: Frank Lloyd Wright's magnificent estate
Taliesin, and Alex Jordan's mysterious museum
The House on the Rock.
- The Wisconsin Dells are another (wet)
summer fun destination, just three hours north of the city by car
(I-90/94), also accessible by Amtrak train.
- Cedarburg is a
popular festival town with a charming downtown featured on the
National Register of Historic Places. It is located 20 miles north
of downtown Milwaukee. Take 1-94 to Milwaukee and continue north on
I-43.
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