From Wikitravel
Wentworth Ave, Chinatown's main street
Bridgeport-Chinatown is the South Side at its
most dynamic, as the old South Side Irish neighborhood of the
Daleys increasingly blends with the old Chinese immigrant community
to the north. Enormous cathedrals now stand next to Buddhist
temples, and Old Style washes down lo mein. If you are a visitor,
though, you only need to keep in mind two things: Chinese
food and baseball.
Understand
Chicago's Chinatown is pleasantly authentic. At the many
restaurants in the area, local Chinese customers are joined by
Chicagoans from all over the city "going Chinese" for the night.
Chicago's Chinatown is the third largest in the United States, the
Midwestern business center for Chinese-Americans, and home to large
populations of Cantonese and Taiwanese. The main street, Wentworth
Ave, is a great place for dining out and rummaging through
eccentric stores, looking for gifts. US Cellular Field, better
known as Comiskey Park, is several blocks south of Chinatown and is
home to the South Side's favorite baseball team, the Chicago White
Sox.
Bridgeport is a large Irish-American enclave that has produced
some of Chicago's most famous South Side Irish, such as Finley
Peter Dunne and the two mayors Daley. Being the birthplace of the
city's power brokers has been good to Bridgeport. The first Daley
remembered playing in the streets as a child, dodging fetid puddles
filled with carcasses from the local slaughterhouses. Bungalows and
other single-family homes are more the norm these days. Bridgeport
is now seeing a large influx of Mexican immigrants, which means
more good food options are springing up left and right, and has
even seen a wave of North Siders priced out of hip neighborhoods
like Wicker Park and Lincoln Park. The most
interesting "immigrants" of late are certainly the Zhou brothers Da
Huang and Shan Zuo, who are both internationally acclaimed
painters, and who have bought five large buildings along Morgan
Street for the ostensible purpose of building a serious artist
colony in Bridgeport. Regardless of what brings you to the
neighborhood, it is full of gritty character (and characters) and
is quite possibly haunted — Bridgeport is always an interesting
place for a walk.
Buddhism and Catholicism in Bridgeport
By train
The main L stations are on the CTA Red Line at
Cermak-Chinatown and Sox-35th for visiting Chinatown and US
Cellular Field respectively. Other options include Halsted and
Ashland on the Orange Line, which are on the
northern and western outskirts of Bridgeport, and
35-Bronzeville-IIT on the Green Line, which is a
block and a half east of the Sox-35th station.
By bus
The main routes into Bridgeport-Chinatown from the Loop are #62,
which runs the length of Archer Ave from State St, and the #24,
which runs from Clark St to Wentworth Ave through the center of
Chinatown and next to US Cellular Field. Route #8 is also useful,
as it runs north-south along Halsted St, which runs through the Near
West Side and Near North neighborhoods as well as
the middle of Bridgeport.
By car
Parking is always plentiful in Bridgeport, and you can usually
find spaces right by your destination, though you should check to
make sure you're not on a permit parking only residential street.
On game days, however, watch out — though no signs go up, you can
be ticketed for parking in the neighborhood. Take the L instead to
avoid the bad game day traffic and pricey parking lots. Chinatown
is more crowded, but you should still have little trouble finding
on-street metered parking around Cermak/Archer on weekdays or on
off-hours.
The Dan Ryan and Stevenson
Expressway cut across the east and north of the district.
From the Dan Ryan, take either of the 31st or 35th Street exits;
from the Stevenson, take the Cermak Avenue/Chinatown exit for
Chinatown and the Damen Avenue exit via Archer or 35th Street for
Bridgeport. The main city streets are Halsted Street (north-south),
and 31st St, 35th St, and Pershing Rd (east-west).
Get around
The easiest way to get around Bridgeport by public transport is
on the two main east-west bus routes #35 and #39, which run along
35th St and Pershing Rd, as well as the aforementioned #8 running
north-south on Halsted St. Bus routes are not terribly convenient
between the two neighborhoods, but #62 Archer does run along the
north of Bridgeport from the Chinatown L stop, from which you can
hop on the Halsted route. Chinatown itself is very compact and
easily covered on foot.
See
You can cover Chinatown's sites easily in an hour or two on
foot, but if you are interested in art, set aside some real time to
explore the new Bridgeport galleries that fly under the popular
radar, but are quite important to the contemporary art world in
Chicago.
- Chinatown Square, 2100 S Wentworth Ave, ☎ +1 312 225-0088. This main square is a Chinatown landmark, with
some cheesy pagoda-like structures as well as animal sculptures of
the Chinese zodiac. Be sure to check out the Chinatown Mural — a
mosaic of painted tiles depicting the migration of
Chinese-Americans from China to, ultimately, Chicago's Chinatown.
Ultimately, though, the reason to come here is to wander into the
surrounding Chinatown Marketplace, full of narrow alleys packed
with shops and restaurants, which occasionally threaten to
transport you back to Taipei. edit
- Chinese American Veterans Memorial, 2169 S Archer
Ave. A small memorial to
Chicago Chinatown residents who served the United States in foreign
wars. edit
- Dr Sun Yat Sen Museum, 2245 S Wentworth
Ave (3rd floor, above
the Chicago Food Market), ☎ +1
312 842-5462. Sa-Su noon-5PM, M-F
by appointment only. A one-room
museum good for some Kuomintang nostalgia. Free admission. edit
- Nine Dragon Wall, (just across Wentworth Ave from 200 W Cermak
Rd). A smaller semblance of the
ancient glazed tile Nine Dragon Wall located in Beijing's Behai Park. edit
- Ping Tom Memorial Park, 300 W 19th
St,
[1]. A riverside park with a Chinese
touch, including a riverside Chinese pavilion and a bamboo garden.
On a clear day the park has nice southwest side views of the
Chicago skyline. The park offers many summertime events from movie
screenings to the very popular dragon boat races. Check the
Chinatown Chamber of Commerce's website [2] for
details. edit
- Pui
Tak, 2214 S
Wentworth Ave, ☎ +1 312
328-1188, [3]. A
historical landmark building notable for its traditional Chinese
architecture now houses a Christian community center.
edit
- Co-Prosperity Sphere, 3219-21 S Morgan St, ☎ +1 773 837-0145, [4]. Sa noon-5PM & by appointment. Bridgeport's (and possibly Chicago's) most
radical and experimental artistic space is huge, full of artists
and their art, and is an ever-expanding force in the neighborhood —
they plan to host live music in the near future. A very interesting
place to browse! edit
- Daley Residence, 3536 S Lowe Ave. Life-long home of the famous, the infamous,
Richard J. Daley, and the place where his sons, current Mayor
Richard M. Daley and state congressman John P. Daley, grew up.
There isn't much at all to be seen here aside from the nice
prairie-style brick one story, and don't bother the current
residents. edit
- mn
Gallery, 3524
S Halsted, ☎ +1 773
847-0573 (mngallery@aol.com), [5]. Sa-Su
noon-5PM during exhibitions. Run
by a local couple, this three-story building houses exhibitions of
contemporary art by Chicago and regional-based artists. Be sure to
check ahead to make sure that they have an open exhibition.
edit
- Saint Barbara Church, 2859 S Throop St, ☎ +1 312 842-7979. Built in 1914 to house overflow from Saint Mary
of Perpetual Help, in the so-called "Polish Cathedral Style."
Dominates the Bridgeport skyline along with St Mary's.
edit
- Saint Mary of Perpetual Help, 1039 W 32nd
St, ☎ +1 773
927-6646 (stmaryph@aol.com, fax: +1 773 523-4565), [6]. Another massive, opulent church of the Polish
Cathedral Style, built in 1882. edit
- Zhou B Art Center, 1029 W 35th St, ☎ +1 773 523-0200 (o@zhoub.com), [7]. M-Sa
11AM-5PM. A big arts center in the
heart of Bridgeport hosting three contemporary painting galleries:
Oskar Friedl, 33 Collective, and the Zhou Brothers Art Foundation,
as well as the eerie abstracts and mixed-media experiments of 4Art.
The Oskar Friedl Gallery in particular really warrants a visit as
it is one of the city's better spots for avant-garde works. The
cafe/bar inside is also pretty fantastic. Check ahead to make sure
the gallery that interests you is open. The whole huge place is
open to wander around on the 3rd Friday of each month.
edit
|
Good Guys wore red
For baseball, the North Side has the Cubs, and the South Side
has the White Sox. But the city used to be split for football as
well: the Chicago Bears played up north, at Wrigley Field, and the
Chicago Cardinals represented the south side at Comiskey. Both were
charter franchises of the NFL; in fact, founded in 1898, the
Cardinals were the first professional football club in
America.
Although they had a good run in the 1920s, by then resident at
Comiskey Park, and although the "Million-Dollar Backfield" of 1947
brought a championship to the South Side, the Cardinals couldn't
defend their territory against the more successful Bears, and the
Bidwill family moved them to St. Louis in 1960 (and later to
Arizona). Still, if you're talking sports with an older crowd in
Bridgeport, don't be shy about sneering at the Pottsville Maroons
and their foiled claim to the South Siders' rightful 1925 title,
and Ernie Nevers' obvious superiority to that overhyped Red
Grange.
|
Comiskey Park, home of the White Sox
- Armour Square Park, 3309 S Shields Ave, ☎ +1 312 747-6012,
[8]. M-F 9AM-10PM, Sa-Su 9AM-5PM.
A good place to play some baseball,
soccer, volleyball, basketball, or take a dip in the pool.
Occasional events include outdoor movie screenings. edit
- Chicago Chinese Cultural Institute, 2145 S China
Pl (2nd floor),
☎ +1 312 842-1988 (info@chicagocci.com, fax: +1 312 275-7133), [9]. Offers an assortment of services and events,
such as: neighborhood tours, film screenings, language instruction,
and cooking classes. edit
- Chinatown Summer Fair. 10AM-8PM, 19 July 2009. A fun neighborhood festival, with a Lion Dance
procession along Wentworth at 12:30PM, and performances starting at
1PM, 23rd & Wentworth. edit
- Dragon Boat Race, (Ping Tom Memorial Park). 9AM-4PM, 25 July 2009. Dragon Boats along the South Branch of the
Chicago River. edit
- Sun Yat Sen Park, 251 West 24th Pl. A little out of the way, but a nice small park
and a great place to relax in the shade on a hot summer day.
edit
- U.S. Cellular Field (Comiskey Park), (Sox-35th Red Line),
[10]. Formerly known as New Comiskey
Park, this is the home of the White Sox — or, as the name is
properly phrased in the company of Cubs fans, The 2005 World
Champion White Sox. The stadium itself was a notorious dud when it
opened in 1991, but recent renovations have helped tremendously. If
you just want to see a Chicago ball game and don't care who is
playing, the stately charm of Wrigley Field might be the better
option. But Sox tickets are easier to get, the fans are no less
loyal, and the fireworks shows after Saturday night home games (win
or lose) are worth the price of admission by themselves. For a
nifty ballpark treat not offered at Wrigley, try the
elotes, corn-off-the-cob with your choice of salt, butter,
cheese, lime, and/or red pepper. edit
Buy
The Chinatown shops are very fun, especially for gifts, but if
you tire of knicknacks and knockoffs, Bridgeport has a handful of
very eccentric and interesting offerings.
- Chinatown Bazaar, 2221 S Wentworth Ave, ☎ +1 312 225-1088. 10AM-10PM daily. An
odd gift shop with just about anything you could expect to be at a
"Chinatown bazaar." It has a particularly good collection of cloth
posters. edit
- CW Mei's Gift & Jewelry Co., 2241 S Wentworth
Ave, ☎ +1 312
225-1933. 10AM-9PM daily.
Kung fu outfitters: swords, knives,
outfits. edit
- Evergreen Jewelry, 2263 S Wentworth Ave, ☎ +1 312 808-0730. 10AM-5:30PM daily. Just what the name would suggest, the store
sells jewelry. edit
- Golden Dragon Fortune Cookies, 2323 S Archer
Ave, ☎ +1 312
842-8199. Yes, the man who
writes the fortunes is in this factory. Buy fortune cookies fresh
out of the oven, or get them in bulk until you can't carry any
more. edit
- Hoypoloi Gallery, 2235 S Wentworth Ave, ☎ +1 312 225-6477 (fax: +1 312 225-6467), [11]. Su-Th
11AM-8PM, F-Sa 11AM-9PM. Probably
Chicago's strangest upscale boutique with all sorts of interesting
artwork and furnishings for interior decorators and gift
shoppers. edit
- Ten Ren Tea and Ginseng Co of Chicago Ltd,
2247 S Wentworth
Ave, ☎ +1 312
842-1171. 9:30AM-7PM
daily. Wide selection of teas and
tea accessories in a store for serious tea drinkers (if you use
bags, that doesn't include you). Worth a visit just for the free
samples! $2-50. edit
- Augustine's Eternal Gifts, 3327 S Halsted
St, ☎ +1 773
843-1933 (email). M-F 11AM-7PM,
Sa 11AM-6PM. A store full of
everything spiritual: from a rosary and cross collection to occult
tomes and voodoo powders. Knowledgeable and helpful staff.
edit
- Grandstand, 600 W 35th St, ☎ +1 312 927-1984, [12]. M-F noon-7PM, Sa 10AM-6PM, Su 11AM-5PM. A store with extensive inventory of sports
memorabilia. A good place to pick up a reproduction Negro League
jersey or rare baseball cards. edit
- Let's
Boogie, 3321
S Halsted St, ☎ +1 773
254-0139. M-Sa 11AM-6PM, Su
11AM-3PM. A big vinyl store
specializing in dance music from house to hip hop. No used records
around, only new. A popular shop with Chicago DJs. edit
Chinatown is a wonderful and popular place for foodies, with
lots of options, great authentic food, and reasonable prices. The
flip side is the curt "Chinatown service," but if you've got a good
attitude about it, that merely adds to the authenticity. The two
most acclaimed restaurants here are Ken Kee and Lao Sze Chuan, but
there are plenty of less known gems to seek out as well. For dim
sum, the great rivalry is between heavyweights Shui Wah, Little
Three Happiness, and The Phoenix. One big thing to watch out for
are the scores of inferior dishes on those long menus. Most
restaurants specialize in a limited range of dishes, and you need
to know which to get a good meal—order a specialty listed below, or
ask the server what the specialties are (if he directs you to the
Kung Pao, insist on an authentic recommendation).
Bridgeport is far further off the beaten foodie path, but it's a
quirky neighborhood with some excellent options. Ed's Potstickers
and Healthy Food Lithuanian are the standout destination
restaurants that really warrant a trip.
Budget
Chinatown
- Feida Bakery, 2228 S Wentworth Ave, ☎ +1 312 808-1113. 7AM-9PM daily, Dim Sum offered 7AM-noon daily.
A small, reliable bakery, where the baked
goods can warm your stomach for less than a dollar. Dim sum is not
as good as you can get elsewhere, but it is dirt cheap. Items vary
in quality, but the seafood dumplings and desserts are
excellent. All items: $0.50-3.
edit
- Lawrence's Fisheries, 2120 S Canal St, ☎ +1 312 225-2113, [13]. 24 hours. It's
amazing that this place exists so close to downtown. It's fried
fish heaven with frogs legs, $1.45 clam strips, fried oysters,
scallops, and boiled shrimp. All that with views of the skyline,
intriguing industrial and river bridge panoramas, and of a good
sized hanging shark. $2-12.
edit
- The Noodle Vietnamese Cuisine, 2336 S Wentworth
Ave, ☎ +1 312
674-1168. Su-Th 10AM-10PM, F-Sa
10AM-11PM. A solid Vietnamese pho
(noodle soup with beef) joint, which qualifies as "ethnic food" for
Chinatown residents — this is one of the few places around where
you'll likely see only Chinatown residents, even on
weekends. $3-6. edit
- Saint's Alp Teahouse, 2131 S Archer Ave, ☎ +1 312 842-1886. 11AM-midnight daily. A Hong Kong teahouse chain with a very long
beverage list also serves entrees. Young crowd that enjoys
the all-ages hangout. $5-12.
edit
- Seven Treasures, 2312 S Wentworth Ave, ☎ +1 312 225-2668, [14]. Su-Th 11AM-2AM, F-Sa 11AM-2:30AM. Seven Treasures has a huge, if uninteresting,
interior and late hours, but the reason to come here is for
Cantonese noodle soup. Anyone who has spent time in China, and
hankers for the noodle soup they had there will not be
disappointed. The Hong Kong-style barbecue menu is
worthwhile. $3.50-10. edit
- Spring World Restaurant, 2109 S China
Pl, ☎ +1 312
326-9966. 10:30AM-10PM
daily. Yunannese cuisine in the
Midwest is Spring World — a specialty quite rare this side of the
Pacific, so foodies should take note. Food-wise, this is one of the
best options in Chinatown (try the tea smoked duck, cold noodles,
or any of the lamb or mushroom dishes), and it's very cheap to
boot: 4$ lunch and $5 appetizer bar! $4-10. edit
Bridgeport
- Kevin's Hamburger Heaven, 554 W Pershing
Rd, ☎ +1 773
924-5771. 24 hours daily.
Chicago, for all that it takes fast food
so seriously, tends to fail in the hamburger category. Not
here. Kevin's serves what is likely the best down-to-earth
hamburger in the city, as well as classic malts, shakes, and
floats. As far as atmosphere goes, think industrial wasteland truck
stop. $3-6. edit
- Maxwell St Depot, 411 W 31st St, ☎ +1 312 326-3514. 24 hours daily. Insomniacs take note! Chicago fare is the whole
menu: Maxwell Street Polishes, pork chop sandwiches, hot dogs, and
hamburgers. This spot serves what might be the world's
fastest food — served usually before you can complete your
order — but it's magically piping hot fresh of the grill. The crowd
can get pretty weird around F-Sa 4AM, and the food is of
extraordinarily low quality, but at that hour (after drinks) few
things are more satisfying than a hot off the grill pork chop
sandwich with a heaped mass of grilled onions and mustard.
$2-5. edit
- Morrie O'Malley's Hot Dogs, 3501 S Union
Ave, ☎ +1 773
247-2700. M-F 10:30AM-8PM, Sa
11AM-6PM, closed Dec-March. Since
US Cellular Field can't seem to do them right, get your real Chicago hot dogs here.
Also, if you want any good insider information about the
neighborhood, ask Morrie — he's helpful, friendly, and knows the
area as well as anybody. If Morrie's is closed and you need a hot
dog, you can get a fine one up at 35th Red Hots, closer to the
stadium. $3-6. edit
- Ramova Grill, 3510 S Halsted St, ☎ +1 773 847-9058. 5AM-8PM daily. A
diner that's been around forever, serving breakfast all day and
locally renowned chili. It is the quintessential dirt cheap greasy
spoon and easily one of Chicago's best diners. $3-5. edit
- Ricobene's, 250 W 26th St, ☎ +1 773 225-5555, [15]. M-Th 11AM-midnight, F-Sa 11AM-1:30AM, Su
11AM-11:30PM. With one exception
the food here is uninspired, but the atmosphere is extreme
Bridgeport, and it's a great place to bring kids. The exception is
the Italian breaded steak sandwich, yet another neighborhood
"delicacy," which it does better than anyone. There's nothing
subtle about it—a big ol' breaded steak on chewy Italian bread,
optionally drenched in red sauce, plus cheese, and hot or sweet
giardinera. Don't order the king size unless you like to view your
meal as a challenge. $4-12.
edit
- Scoops, 608 W 31st St, ☎ +1 312 842-3300, [16]. 11AM-11PM daily. A
deceptively old fashioned neighborhood ice cream parlor offering
homemade ice cream in a non-old fashioned variety of flavors. They
also happen to have free WiFi and homemade cannoli. $2-5. edit
Mid-range
Chinatown
- Bertucci's Corner, 300 W 24th St, ☎ +1 312 225-2848. M-Th 11AM-10PM, F-Sa 11AM-11PM, Su 3PM-9PM.
This family-run Italian joint exudes so
much Chicago character, you will feel like you just stepped off the
Chinatown street into a 1930s gangster movie. Scruffy, no-nonsense
Italian-American food. The fact that it's in Chinatown only attests
to its hidden gem status. Full bar. $6-12. edit
- Cantonesia, 204 W Cermak Rd, ☎ +1 312 225-0100 (fax: +1 312 225-2833), [17]. Su-Th 11:30AM-11PM, F-Su 11:30AM-midnight.
An 60-year-old establishment offering
serving adequate Cantonese cuisine and much trumpeted Mai Tais.
Stick to the noodle dishes and the hot and sour soup. $8-15. edit
- Ken-Kee Restaurant, 2129 S China Pl, ☎ +1 312 326-2088. 11AM-1AM daily. One
of the best bets in the Chinatown Marketplace with an
extraordinarily long menu offering Cantonese preparations of
virtually any creature or vegetable. It's hard to get a table on
weekend nights. $6-18. edit
- Mandarin Kitchen, 2143 S Archer St, ☎ +1 312 328-0228 (fax: +1 312 328-9628). M W Th 11AM-10:30PM, T 3AM-10:30PM, F-Su
9AM-11PM. As the name might lead
you to expect, Mandarin Kitchen is one of the few restaurants
around serving northern Chinese cuisine, which is generally drier
and heartier than the other cuisines you can sample in Chinatown.
Hot pots, where you cook the meat on your table, are the house
specialty, and great for groups. Otherwise the lamb cumin and
noodle dishes are very good bets. $10-16. edit
- ''Little'' Three Happiness, 209 W Cermak
Rd, ☎ 842-1964. 9AM-2AM daily, dim sum until 3PM. There are two "Three Happinesses" right across
the street from each other, and as you might guess, the small dingy
looking one on the south side of the street is far superior. LTH is
so beloved, the city's most knowledgeable foodie website is
named after it. Specialties are many, including pan-fried
rice noodles, spare ribs, crispy duck and chicken, and most
famously the heads-on salt and pepper shrimp. The dim sum is
excellent, and the cheapest of the big three (by a good
margin). $5-25. edit
- Shui
Wah, 2162 S
Archer Ave, ☎ +1 312
225-8811. Dim Sum: 8AM-3PM daily,
Dinner 5PM-2AM daily. Skip dinner,
served by a different management and staff — you can do better. But
the dim sum, always great, is quite possibly the best in the city
when it's really on. Sadly, once a hidden gem, Shui Wah was
recently exposed by rave reviews in popular Chicago magazines, so
getting there early or late is wise to avoid the crowds on
weekends. $8-20. edit
- Yee Heung Seafood House, 225 W Cermak
Rd, ☎ +1 312
326-3171 (fax: +1 312
326-3838). M-Th 5PM-4AM, F-Sa
5PM-5AM, Su 5PM-11PM. Feeling
peckish for authentic food in the wee hours of the morning? This is
the place, and may be the best place after most close. $8-16. edit
Bridgeport
- Ed's Potsticker House (Potsticker House), 3139 S Halsted St, ☎ +1 312 326-6898. Su-Th 10AM-10PM, F-Sa 10AM-11PM. One of Chicago's great neighborhood
restaurants, though you would never know it from the inauthentic
sounding name. Chicago's Chinese community more and more bleeds
across neighborhood boundaries into Bridgeport proper, and this
restaurant is the showcase of the culinary possibilities this
creates for the area. It's a mom and pop run Chinese restaurant
specializing in Northern Chinese cuisine. There are a lot of great
dishes on the menu (hint, not the ones you've heard of before) —
aim for the lamb cumin, soup dumplings, or the whole Szechuan style
tilapia. edit
- Gio's Cafe & Deli, 2724 S Lowe
Ave, ☎ +1 312
225-6368, [18]. M-Sa
8AM-9PM. Some of Chicago's best
Italian is hidden in a tiny checkerboard tablecloth deli, more
resembling a grocery store than a restaurant, hidden further still
in the residential streets of Bridgeport. It's also, as you might
expect, a steal of a bargain. Delicious Italian pastas, chicken,
and panini. $5-25. edit
- Healthy Food Lithuanian, 3236 S Halsted
St, ☎ +1 312
326-2724 (info@healthyfoodlithuanian-chicago.com),
[19].
T-W 8AM-4PM, Th-Sa 8AM-8PM, Su 8AM-5PM.
Where else are you going to go for
Lithuanian? Fortunately, the one option is a very good one
and has been serving grandma's Lithuanian favorites since 1938,
making it the oldest Lithuanian restaurant in the world.
Don't miss the blynai (Lithuanian crepes). The "healthy" name comes
from the fact that this restaurant only uses organic ingredients
and serves a fair amount of breakfast foods made from buckwheat. It
does not come from the heavy portions nor the generous sour cream.
It's also an intriguing option for souvenirs, with Baltic amber
jewelry and t-shirts boasting kugelis as the "breakfast of
champions." $8-14. edit
- Pancho Pistola's, 700 W 31st St, ☎ +1 312 225-8808, [20]. M-Th 11AM-11PM, F-Sa 11AM-midnight, Su
11AM-10PM. Authentic and very
solid food in a nice sit-down family owned Mexican restaurant
notable for its great margaritas. One of Bridgeport's trendiest
restaurants (there aren't a lot of those). $8-15. edit
- Han
202, 605 W
31st St, ☎ +1 312
949-1314, [21]. 4PM-10PM daily. High
class, trendy dining on the cheap! The ethnic makeup of this
section of town might fool you, but "Asian Fusion" is about as
unlikely as a Utah brewpub. Bridgeport is a decidedly non-trendy
neighborhood. But the neighborhood's new Han 202 has taken off, and
its chef's cooking has attracted favorable comparisons to some of
the flashiest and most esteemed in the city. The rave reviews are
no doubt reinforced by the extraordinary deal—$20 for a fixed price
five-course meal, plus BYOB with no corkage fee. edit
- Lao
Sze Chuan, 2172 S Archer Ave, ☎ +1 312 326-5040, [22]. 11:30AM-midnight daily. Often considered the best Chinese in the
Chicagoland area, Lao Sze Chuan serves up fiery Szechuan cuisine.
Not only is the food excellent, the service is as well, and it even
has a nice ambiance. As is often the case in Chinatown, sometimes
the most inauthentic sounding names hide the best dishes; Tony's
Chicken is the restaurant's rightly famous dish, served with three
types of chili sauce. Other famous dishes include their very
unusual cumin lamb, as well as the tea duck. If what you want isn't
on the menu, tell them what you want and how you want it cooked —
they'll likely invent the dish on the spot! $10-17. edit
- Phoenix, 2131 S Archer Ave, ☎ +1 312 328-0848, [23]. Dim Sum: M-F 9AM-3PM, Sa-Su 8AM-3PM; Dinner Su-Th
5PM-9:30PM, Sa-Su 5PM-10:30PM. The
Phoenix is the gold standard in Chicago dim sum, and with good
reason. It's the one of the three top dim sum establishments that
actually has nice decor, which, naturally, you pay for. Unlike the
other good dim sum options, Phoenix uses the ever-popular wheeled
cart method of delivery. The one downside to Phoenix is that it is
better known, and therefore a good deal more crowded (and
expensive) than most Chinatown restaurants — it pays to arrive
either early or late to avoid the crowd. $18-30. edit
- Polo
Cafe & Catering Bridgeport USA, 3322 S Morgan St, ☎ +1 773 927-7656, [24]. lunch: M-F 11AM-3PM, dinner: W 6PM-8PM, F-Sa 5PM-9PM,
brunch: Sa 9AM-2PM. A fine
Bridgeport steakhouse decked with Mayor Daley-worship decor. Show
up early on Saturday for the "Bloody Mary Brunch" and try "The
Mayor's Steak and Eggs." $15-40.
edit
Drink
As you might expect from such an Irish neighborhood, drinking is
an established tradition in Bridgeport. If Chicago machine politics
and general intrigue are your cup of tea, finish a tour of
Bridgeport with a cold beer at the birthplace of many a corrupt
scheme, Schaller's Pump. In Chinatown, some of the nicer sit-down
restaurants serve alcohol, and the bar at nearby Bertucci's Corner
is very pleasant. If you're up for a weirder Chinatown experience,
head to the nameless, haunted, union man's bar at 26th and
Wentworth.
For tea, you're in luck. In addition to dedicated teahouses,
every sit down restaurant in Chinatown will serve you endless, free
loose-leaf oolong tea with your meal. If you care more about the
tea than the meal, Mandarin
Kitchen's standard oolong is the finest.
- Bernice & John's, 3238 S Halsted St. A laid back and particularly friendly
Bridgeport bar with Thursday open mic nights that have caught on
well with local artists. edit
- Bridgeport Coffeehouse, 3101 S Morgan
St, ☎ +1 773
247-9950 (bridgeportcoffee@sbcglobal.net,
fax: +1 773 247-9969), [25]. M-F 6AM-8PM, Sa 7AM-8PM, Su 8AM-7PM. Starbucks doesn't exist in Bridgeport and in
this coffeehouse, the staff knows their customers by name. Features
original blends roasted in house and some excellent loose-leaf
teas. Free wireless, live jazz on Sundays, and live blues on
Wednesdays. edit
- First
Base, 3201 S
Normal Ave, ☎ +1 312
791-1239. 11AM-2AM daily.
A lively bar with some good Irish stout
on tap. It gets raucous when the Sox are playing. edit
- Mitchell's Tap, 3356 S Halsted St, ☎ +1 773 927-6073, [26]. Su-F 11AM-2AM, Sa 11AM-3AM. Lots of different kinds of beer, bowling, golf
machines, and frequent live music. cover
on Sa only: $3-5. edit
- Schaller's Pump, 3714 S Halsted St, ☎ +1 773 376-6332. M-F 11AM-2AM, Sa 4PM-3AM, Su 3PM-9PM. This family-owned Irish-American bar is the
oldest in the city — founded in 1881. The former speakeasy gets
really crowded during and after Sox games, but it's always a good
place to spot local power-brokers — it's just across the street
from the Democratic Ward office. Regardless of whether you're here
after a Sox game or you're just hatching political plots, you can
enjoy a mighty fine corned beef and cabbage sandwich.
edit
- Zhou Brothers Cafe, 1029 W 35th St (Just inside the Zhou B Art Center),
☎ +1 773 523-7777, [27]. Certainly the most stylish hang-out in
Bridgeport, the cafe/lounge is a nice place to relax on the
couches, surf the free WiFi, and have a glass of wine. food: $5-10. edit
Sleep
If you want to get out of the touristy areas and get a real
Chicago neighborhood experience, the three options below are
excellent. The Chinatown experience is, as is appropriate, budget
and poor, while the Bridgeport options are upscale and full of
South Side character.
- Chinatown Hotel, 214 W 22nd Pl (located at Cermak/Chinatown on the Red
Line), ☎ +1 312
225-8888, [28]. checkin: 3PM; checkout: noon. Free wired
internet and computers. One of the best budget options anywhere
near downtown Chicago. And to top it off, its right by all sorts of
delicious and cheap Chinese restaurants. But do remember that it is
a budget spot — staff speaks limited English and accommodations are
pretty spare (might remind backpackers of China travels).
from $67. edit
- Benedictine Bed & Breakfast, 3111 S Aberdeen
St, ☎ +1 773
927-7424 (fax: +1 773
927-5734), [29]. Cozy spacious rooms within an urban Benedictine
monastery. The price is way lower than what you would
spend in a downtown hotel, but the accommodations actually blow
those hotels out of the water (multiple rooms, private gardens!),
and the monastery and the surrounding neighborhood have much more
character. The monks are quite good cooks, and very quiet hosts —
you won't even see them leave you a different breakfast each
morning. Definitely make your reservations well in advance, as the
two apartments often are booked solid as far as three
months. $165 for 1-2 adults.
edit
- Bridgeport Bed and Breakfast, 3322 S Morgan
St (Above the Polo
Cafe), ☎ +1 773
927-1122, [30]. Run by the owner of the Polo Cafe, offering
meeting space for 100 people, and suites for 4-6 visitors, the
Bridgeport B&B is an unusual neighborhood B&B. One
significant plus of staying here is enjoying the big gift
certificates and discounts at the Polo Cafe downstairs.
$200-450. edit
Contact
The most pleasant spots to check your email have got to be the
Bridgeport Coffeehouse, Scoops, and the cafe/bar inside the Zhou B
Art Center (See above for details). But for those without a laptop,
there is also free internet access also at the following two public
libraries:
- Chinatown Public Library, 2353 S Wentworth
Ave, ☎ +1 312
747-8013. M-Th 9AM-9PM, F-Sa
9AM-5PM. Free public internet
access. Also, the library manages to be a bit of an attraction in
and of itself for its indoor koi pond, China-related displays, and
collection of books in Chinese. edit
- Richard J Daley Public Library, 3400 S Halsted
St, ☎ +1 312
747-8990. M-Th 9AM-9PM, F-Sa
9AM-5PM. WiFi in the house of his
honor. edit
- Chicago's Southeast Asian Strip is located in
Uptown around
Argyle Street, at the CTA Red Line stop of the same name. It is a
better bet for Thai, Vietnamese, Laotian, and other Southeast Asian
regional cuisines. It is also far less touristed than
Chinatown.
- If you came here after reading Upton Sinclair's The
Jungle and are feeling disappointed in the general lack of hog
butchery, head due southwest to visit the few remaining monuments
to the once vast Chicago meatpacking district, around the Union
Stockyard gate in Chicago's Southwest Side.
- For those in search of the perfect Irish pub in Chicago, you
may have better luck in the Far Southwest Side.
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