From Wikitravel
North Lincoln in a nutshell
North Lincoln is a collection of neighborhoods
on the north side of Chicago
through which Lincoln Avenue wanders, remembering
treasures and curiosities of the last century in Chicago life,
moving along, and forgetting them all over again.
Lincoln Square, Albany Park,
and North Park are much better known to residents
than tourists, but anyone will feel welcome here. To paraphrase
Lionel Richie, this is where Chicago is easy like a Sunday morning,
all week long.
The best reasons to come here are the shopping — unquestionably
cool, and completely unpretentious — and the restaurants, which
serious Chicago food lovers consider some of the best in the
city.
Understand
Lincoln Square was settled by German farmers in
the 1860s, when the area (along with portions of the neighboring Uptown) was known
as Ravenswood. With the arrival of what is today
known as the Brown Line elevated train in 1906, population surged,
and a thriving small business community developed under the L
tracks and around the network of streetcar lines. By the 1920s, the
relatively affluent community had a movie palace, now known as the
Davis Theater, and rows of attractive commercial
buildings — most notably the Krause Music Store,
whose façade was the last commission of master architect Louis
Sullivan. Although the neighborhood is now culturally diverse, a
few vintage businesses like the Chicago Brauhaus
and The Huettenbar celebrate its German heritage
through, well, celebration.
Today, Lincoln Square has some of the city's best shopping (even
for people who don't like shopping), and some terrific restaurants
and bars; more than anything else, though, Chicago doesn't get any
more pleasant than Lincoln Square for brunch on a Saturday or
Sunday afternoon.
The Greater Lincoln Square area includes the smaller,
residential neighborhoods of Budlong Woods, Ravenswood Gardens, and
Ravenswood Manor, which is crossed by the pretty North Branch of
the Chicago River — unrecognizable from the more famous sludge in
the Loop.
Also listed in this article are Albany Park and
North Park, two diverse residential neighborhoods
to the northwest of Lincoln Square. There’s no better place in
Chicago to find late-night Guatemalan dinner or Filipino dessert.
Kedzie Avenue has an amazing run of authentic Middle Eastern
restaurants, and a major Korean population lives and works on the
stretch of Lawrence Avenue known as "Seoul Drive." The Brown Line
makes it easy to skip the over-priced tourist restaurants downtown
and enjoy a quick culinary tour at a fraction of the price you’ll
find by your hotel — unless you’re staying on the Sin Strip (see Sleep).
|
Welcome to the neighborhood
When Chicago was offered a piece of the Berlin Wall, Lincoln
Square was the natural choice for a location, considering its
German roots. It's now in the lobby of the Western Brown Line CTA
station. Anyone can have a look, but tearing down the wall is
strictly prohibited.
|
By train
The CTA Brown Line runs from the Loop, and makes stops
in Ravenswood (Montrose, Damen), Lincoln Square (Western),
Ravenswood Manor (Rockwell, Francisco), and terminates in Albany
Park (Kedzie, Kimball). The stations from Rockwell to Kedzie are
street-level, and most have a second entrance on the other end of
the platform. All stations are wheelchair accessible.
The Metra Union Pacific North Line stops at
Ravenswood (Lawrence Avenue) before moving on to Rogers
Park and Evanston.
- 11 Lincoln runs down a key route down Lincoln
Ave, connecting with North Center and West
Ridge, but it stops running too early in the evening.
- 49 Western runs all night through most of the
city, connecting to the Brown Line at the Western station in the
heart of Lincoln Square.
- 50 Damen connects with the Brown Line at the
Damen station.
- 78 Montrose runs along the border with Irving
Park on the Far Northwest Side,
connecting with the Brown Line in North Center.
- 81 Lawrence is ideal for travel on "Seoul
Drive". It connects to the Red Line in Uptown.
- 82 Kimball/Homan connects with the Brown Line
at Kimball serving Albany & North Park heading up to
Devon.
- 92 Foster connects with the Red Line at Berwyn
and is the best way to reach Andersonville from the train. It also
ends up west at the Jefferson Park Blue Line station.
By car
Lincoln Ave is the main thoroughfare for Lincoln Square. While
few roads in Chicago can match Lincoln for unique shops and
restaurants, it's perpetually under construction, and traffic
rarely moves fast. Take Western if you are in a hurry. Accordingly,
if you are coming up the Kennedy Expressway, take
the Western Ave exit, although if you are coming from the north on
the Edens Expressway, the Peterson Ave exit is
probably the fastest way into the district.
Free parking is generally available on side streets, but keep an
eye out for permit-parking zones.
See
The heart of Lincoln Square is Giddings Plaza,
a fountain square located on a one-way stretch of Lincoln Avenue.
It's a popular gathering spot, and on summer evenings, impromptu
concerts from the Old Town School of Folk Music often spill out
into the square. Nearby, there are a few flourishes in honor of the
neighborhood's German heritage and namesake: while out and around,
look for the Maypole, a few German murals, the decidedly Teutonic
Thomas Jefferson Pumping Station, and the Beardless Action Lincoln
statue.
The only notable sight in the neighborhood is the home of
disgraced former Gov. Rod Blagojevich, but an aimless stroll on a
sunny day in Ravenswood Manor is one of the best
afternoons Chicago has to offer. Exit the Francisco Brown Line stop
and you're right in the midst of several blocks of classic Chicago
bungalows and brick mansions.
Forms from nature, Louis Sullivan
- Cambodian Association of Illinois, 2831 W Lawrence
Ave (Francisco Brown
Line), ☎ +1 773
878-7090 (fax: +1 773
878-5299), [1]. Community Center M-F 9AM-5PM, Museum & Memorial
M-F 10AM-4PM, Sa-Su by appointment. In addition to their work with Cambodian
immigrants and refugees, the CAI also runs a small but highly
effective Heritage Museum and Killing Fields Memorial at their
building near Albany Park. edit
- DANK-HAUS German Cultural Center, 4740 N Western
Ave (Western Brown
Line), ☎ +1 773
275-1100, [2]. Sa
11AM-3PM, and for special events such as '''German Cinema Now''',
showing contemporary German films with English sub-titles, on the
third Monday of every month at 7PM. D.A.N.K. is an acronym for German American
National Congress, which is also on-site, a cultural and social hub
for the German-American community throughout Chicago and the
Midwest. The Cultural Center hosts art exhibitions in two gallery
spaces. Usually free. edit
- Krause Music Store, 4611 N Lincoln Ave (Western Brown Line). Built in 1922, this was the last commission of
legendary architect Louis
Sullivan. The beautiful terra-cotta facade was restored in 2006. It
currently houses a design studio. edit
- Rosehill Cemetery, 5800 N Ravenswood Ave, ☎ +1 773 561-5940. Rosehill doesn't have as famous a burial list
as Graceland nearby in Uptown, but the mix of Chicago
historical figures, Civil War soldiers, and Bohemian statuary makes
it worth a look. The Gothic cemetery gate was built in 1864, one of
the few remaining structures from before the Great Chicago
Fire. edit
Do
This is a laid-back area, with plenty of opportunities to relax
or pick up a new hobby.
- Albany Park Theater Project, 5100 N Ridgeway
Ave, ☎ +1 773
866-0875, [3]. A community gem: experienced theater veterans
guide a multi-ethnic ensemble of teenagers in creating original
plays about the immigrant stories in their neighborhood.
edit
- The
Chopping Block Cooking School, 4747 N Lincoln Ave (Western Brown Line), ☎ +1 773 472-6700, [4]. M-F 10AM-9PM, Sa-Su 10AM-6PM. Even if you're only going to be in town for one
day, you can drop in for a class (no experience necessary) on a
wide variety of culinary subjects, with plenty of hands-on
experience included. Check the calendar on their website to see if
anything strikes your fancy. Kids
classes $20, adults $40-$75. edit
- Davis Theater, 4614 N Lincoln Ave (Western Brown Line), ☎ +1 773 784-0893, [5]. In the neighborhood for more than 80 years.
They mostly show current Hollywood movies, but there are special
features every once in a while, including Bollywood musicals for
the Indian community on Devon. Tickets $8, $5.50 before 6pm. edit
- Gompers Park, 4222 W Foster Ave (Foster & Pulaski), ☎ +1 773 685-3270,
[6]. A big, lovely park (39 acres)
with the full range of outdoor sports activities, including a
lagoon for fishing. A new statue in honor of the park's namesake,
labor hero Samuel Gompers, was unveiled in 2007. edit
- Lincoln Square Lanes, 4874 N Lincoln Ave, ☎ +1 773 561-8191. Su-F 12PM-2AM, Sa 12PM-3AM. A second-floor bowling alley, right above a
hardware store, with hand-scoring and an old Midwestern lodge
feel. $4 per game; cheap beer,
too. edit
- Marie's Golden Cue, 3241 W Montrose Ave (Kedzie Brown Line), ☎ +1 773 478-2555. M-F 12PM-2AM, Sa-Su 11AM-2AM. A classic pool hall with eighteen well-kept
tables. It's seedy enough that you can enjoy hustlers working the
room, but not so rough-and-tumble that Marie can't announce her new
grand-kids on the vintage marquee outside. Hot dogs and a couple of
arcade machines are available. $5-9 per
hour. edit
- The
Old-Town School of Folk Music, 4544 N Lincoln Ave (Western Brown Line), ☎ +1 773 728-6000, [7]. If you're interested in folk music from America
or anywhere else in the world you should definitely plan to spend
some time at the Old-Town School. There are classes ranging from
beginners' clawhammer banjo to advanced Flamenco dance. Even if you
are just passing through town, consider stopping by to see a
concert or just to check out the store, which features a fabulous
array of banjos, fiddles, guitars, and rare folk instruments from
around the world, as well as recordings of just about every sort of
folk music (and early jazz) you can imagine. edit
- Welles Park, Between Western, Lincoln, Montrose, &
Sunnyside Ave (Sunrise
to sunset), ☎ +1 312
742-7511,
[8]. One of the best neighborhood
parks in the city. Welles Park is a perfect match for Lincoln
Square: 15 acres of great facilities (tennis, softball, an indoor
pool) that never feels remotely crowded, except when the Old Town
School of Folk Music holds the free summer Folk & Roots
Festival [9] here.
edit
Blowup map of the central Lincoln Square area
Buy
If you've come to Chicago to shop, give the designer jumble on
the Magnificent Mile its due and then
come to Lincoln Square, where they have stuff you can't
buy at the mall back home. There are several labor-of-love shops
here, and they're a lot of fun to browse.
- Architectural Artifacts, 4325 N Ravenswood
Ave, ☎ +1 773
348-0622, [10]. 10AM-5PM daily. Chicago has built many of the world's greatest
buildings, and Chicago has also destroyed many of the world's
greatest buildings. This is where a lot of the pieces wind up — an
enormous warehouse full of tiles, furnishings, and
exterior ornament from classic skyscrapers and bungalows. (Find the
interior courtyard for the biggest pieces.) The prices befit the
awe the items inspire, but it's absolutely worth a browse whether
or not you plan to buy anything. edit
- Book
Cellar, 4736
N Lincoln Ave (Western
Brown Line), ☎ +1 773
293-2665, [11]. M,W-Sa 10AM-10PM, Tu,Su 10AM-6PM. Splendid, comfortable book store with author
events, a wide selection of Chicago books, and wine by the
glass. edit
- Eclecticity, 4718 N Lincoln Ave (Western Brown Line), ☎ +1 773 275-3080, [12]. M-Sa
11AM-9PM, Su 11AM-5:30PM. Proudly
described as a "purely self-indulgent venture," Eclecticity is
shopping for shopping's sake, with collectibles old and new from
around the world, and a wide selection of candles. edit
- European Import Center, 4752 N Lincoln
Ave (Western Brown
Line), ☎ +1 773
561-8281. Address the
embarrassing lack of garden gnomes and authentic Black Forest
cuckoo clocks in your life. edit
- Gallimaufry Gallery, 4712 N Lincoln Ave (Western Brown Line), ☎ +1 773 728-3600, [13]. M-Sa 10AM-6PM (Th to 8PM), Su 1-6PM. A little bit of everything, and a wonderful
selection thereof; jewelry, secret boxes, imported scarves, and
several varieties of kaleidoscopes are among the delights you'll
find here. edit
- Hangar
18, 4726 N
Lincoln Ave (Western
Brown Line), ☎ +1 773
275-3349, [14]. M 11AM-6PM, Tu-F 11AM-7PM, Sa 11AM-6PM, Su
11AM-5PM. From handbags to baby
slings, from toys to journals, this is where cool stuff is
found; nothing you urgently need, and lots of things you'll realize
you want. edit
- Japan Books & Seoul Books and Records,
3450 W Peterson
Ave, ☎ +1 773
463-7229. M-Sa 10AM-7PM, Su
noon-5PM. Two stores at one
location selling principally books and magazines, but also music,
comic books, and videos. As you would expect the former store
offers goods in the Japanese; the latter in Korean. edit
- Laurie's Planet of Sound, 4639 N Lincoln
Ave (Western Brown
Line), ☎ +1 773
271-3569, [15]. M-Sa 10AM-10PM, Su 11AM-7PM. Excellent neighborhood CD & DVD store with
staff who care about music — not infrequently is this called the
best record store in the city. edit
- Merz Apothecary, 4716 N Lincoln Ave (Western Brown Line), ☎ +1 773 989-0900, [16]. M-Sa 9AM-6PM. Established in 1875 as a typical corner drug
store, Merz Apothecary sold herbal medicines and traditional
remedies from the Old World under several generations of the Merz
family. In 1972, Abdul Quaiyum bought the store and expanded sales
to include international health, body, and beauty products, and
today, the thriving business doubles as a tourist destination for
its classic atmosphere. edit
- Quake Collectibles, 4628 N Lincoln Ave (Western Brown Line), ☎ +1 773 878-4288. If you have long yearned to re-assemble the
squad of Dinobots that your mother so heartlessly sold at a garage
sale, this would be a good place to start. Prices for
in-original-package items vary, but the real danger lies in the
several bins of loose action figures at $3 apiece or 4 for
$10. edit
- Salamander Shoes, 4740 N Lincoln (Western Brown Line), ☎ +1 773 784-7463, [17]. M-W 9:30AM-6PM, Th 9:30AM-8PM, F-Sa 9:30AM-6PM, Su
12-4PM. Imported walking shoes on
stylish display, with a few bigger-than-usual sizes.
edit
- Sweden Shop, 3304 W Foster Ave, ☎ +1 773 478-0327, [18]. M-Sa 10AM-6PM, Su 10AM-3PM. Scandinavian import store in North Park, owned
by the couple that runs the Tre Kronor restaurant (see Eat). edit
- Timeless Toys, 4749 N Lincoln Ave (Western Brown Line), ☎ +1 773 334-4445. M-W, Sa 10AM-6PM, Thu,F 10AM-7PM, Su 11AM-5PM.
Classic toy store — as in, no Disney
characters or cheap movie tie-ins — with plenty to buy and plenty
more to play with in the store. edit
Eat
Put simply, there's food in this area that's found nowhere else
in Chicago, and it's good. Middle Eastern and Korean are
the headliners, but there are also Thai, German, and Japanese
places that are consistently mentioned among the city's best. With
most restaurants easily accessible from the Brown Line, it's worth
a trip for dinner even if you're staying elsewhere.
- Apart
Pizza, 2205
W. Montrose Ave (Western Brown Line), ☎ +1 773 588-1550, [19]. M-Tu
5-11PM, W-Su 11AM-11PM. One of the
best locations for Neopolitan-style pizza in Chicago, and unlike
the well-known main competitor Spacca Napoli, here you won't have
to wait an hour to get in the door. Makes an amazing $5 personal
pizza, and features free delivery. $5-18. edit
- Costello Sandwich & Sides, 4647 N Lincoln
Ave (Western Brown
Line), ☎ +1 773
989-7788, [20]. Su-Th 11AM-9PM, F-Sa 11AM-10PM. Sandwich joint with more than enough options to
make Subway's head spin. $6-8.
edit
- Garcia's Restaurant, 4749 N Western Ave (Western Brown Line), ☎ +1 773 769-5600. M-Th 10AM-1AM, F 10AM-3AM, Sa 10AM-4AM, Su
10AM-12AM. Cheap Mexican
restaurant that earns loyalty for plentiful, tasty food and
late-night hours. $4-12. edit
- Korean Noodle Restaurant, 3236 W Bryn Mawr
Ave, ☎ +1 773
588-0305. M-Sa 10AM-10PM.
Korean noodle soup is generally similar
to other East Asian noodle cuisine, but is often fiery hot, full of
Korean hot sauce. $3-6. edit
- Nazareth Sweets, 4638 N Kedzie Ave, ☎ +1 773 463-2457. M-Sa 10AM-10PM, Su 10AM-9PM. If you've had dinner on Kedzie, skip dessert
there and savor this on the train back to the hotel. Nazareth has
the cheap, fresh baklava and semolina cakes you so richly
deserve. $2-5. edit
- Rosded Restaurant, 2308 W Leland Ave (Western Brown Line), ☎ +1 773 334-9055. Tu-Sa 11:30AM-9PM, Su noon-8:30PM. Hole-in-the-wall Thai restaurant with
traditional recipes and big, flavorful portions. $10-20. edit
- Salam, 4636 N Kedzie Ave (Kedzie Brown Line), ☎ +1 773 583-0776. 9:30AM-9:30PM. Falafel comes no cheaper in Chicago than at
this mostly Palestinian restaurant. It's a neighborhood hang-out
and has nothing in the way of decor, but anyone is welcome, and the
menu changes throughout the week to keep the regulars
satisfied. $3-10. edit
- Semiramis, 4639 N Kedzie Ave (Kedzie Brown Line), ☎ +1 773 279-8900. M-Th 11AM-10PM, F-Sa 11AM-11PM. BYOB Lebanese food that excels even in staples
like hummus. Semiramis is smack outside the Kedzie station, and its
comfortable, casual dining room is a great place to pass some
time. $6-13. edit
- Shelly's Freez, 5119 N Lincoln Ave (Western Brown Line), ☎ +1 773 271-2783. 9AM-9:45PM daily. A
giant hot dog and a giant soft-serve ice cream cone on the walls
outside advertise a simple, timeless culinary truth. $2-4. edit
- Tre
Kronor, 3258
W Foster Ave, ☎ +1 773
267-9888, [21]. Tu-Sa 7AM-10PM, Su 9AM-3PM. Along with Andersonville, North Park has a pocket
of Swedish Chicago. Good for breakfast, brunch, or a quick
fika. $5-15. edit
Mid-range
One of the true pleasures of Chicago dining is a weekend brunch
in Lincoln Square. Cafe Selmarie is the best-known
spot, but a few of the bars serve a worthy brunch as well — see Drink for more options.
- Al-Khaymeih, 4748 N Kedzie Ave (Kedzie Brown Line), ☎ +1 773 583-0999. 10AM-10PM. Lebanese
cuisine in Albany Park. Try a mezza, a set selection of
twelve appetizers for your dipping pleasure. $10-22. edit
- Cafe Selmarie, 4729 N Lincoln Ave (Western Brown Line), ☎ +1 773 989-5595, [22]. M
11AM-3PM, Tu-Th 8AM-10PM, F-Sa 8AM-11PM, Su 10AM-10PM. A favorite spot for brunch since 1983, with
outdoor sitting right in the fountain square. $8-$17. edit
- Chicago Kalbi, 3752 W Lawrence Ave, ☎ +1 773 604-8183, [23]. W-M 5PM-midnight. Korean/Japanese BBQ. Reportedly has a shrine to
Japanese baseball players, making it worth the trip for pro
yakyu fans. $14-30. edit
- Great Sea Chinese Restaurant, 3254 W Lawrence
Ave, ☎ +1 773
478-9129. Su-Th 11AM-9:30PM, F-Sa
11AM-10:30PM. A nice attractive
restaurant serving a wide range of Chinese and Korean foods.
$8-14. edit
- Il
Song Jung, 3315 W Bryn Mawr Ave, ☎ +1 773 463-2121. 5PM-2AM daily. A
Korean BBQ restaurant with an interior you would only find on
"Seoul Drive." Patrons cook their own food on the table as they
eat. $10-15. edit
- Kang Nam Restaurant, 4849 N Kedzie Ave, ☎ +1 773 539-2524. 10:30AM-10:30PM. A
smoky, family-run Korean BBQ with no decor, a back room for
karaoke, free parking, and lots of food — entrees come
with numerous side dishes. If two or more in your party order the
same dish, you'll have the option of cooking at your table.
$10-25. edit
- Los
Nopales, 4544
N Western Ave (Western
Brown Line), ☎ +1 773
334-3149, [24]. Tu-Su 10AM-10PM. BYOB Mexican restaurant; the name means "cactus
paddle," and that's one of their signature dishes. (And there's a
liquor store around the corner on Leland.) $7-18. edit
- Midori Japanese Restaurant, 3310 W Bryn Mawr
Ave, ☎ +1 773
267-9733. W-M lunch:
11:30AM-2:30PM, dinner: 5PM-11PM, karaoke: 7PM-1:30AM. This Japanese restaurant is an excellent value,
offering all sorts of hard-to-find Japanese dishes and private
dining rooms for up to 6 people. $10-15. edit
- Noon
O Kabab, 4661
N Kedzie Ave (Kedzie
Brown Line), ☎ +1 773
279-8899, [25]. M-Th
11AM-10PM, F-Sa 11AM-11PM, Su 11AM-9PM. Persian food that deservedly earns rave
reviews, particularly the polo (seasoned rice) dishes.
Meals come with some tasty complimentary appetizers. It's a great
take-out option, too. $7-$17.
edit
- So Gong Dong Tofu House, 3307 W Bryn Mawr
Ave, ☎ +1 773
539-8377. 10AM-10PM, closed
W. Serves up sizzling portions of
Korean tofu stew with beef, seafood, or vegetables, and dan jang
chi gae, memorably described by the Chicago Reader as "an
aggressive bean paste stew." $10-15. edit
- Spoon
Thai, 4608 N
Western Ave (Western
Brown Line), ☎ +1 773
769-1173, [26]. 11AM-10PM. Authentic
Thai food, with bits and pieces from other Asian cuisines. Rumor
has it that a secret Thai-only menu exists for a wider range of
options. Weekday lunch specials are only $4.95. edit
- Ssyal Ginseng House, 4201 W Lawrence Ave, ☎ +1 773 427-5296. M-Sa 10:30AM-9:30PM, Su 1-9PM. Ginseng-infused Korean soups (chicken, fish,
and miso). Check out the bizarre (and perfectly natural) twisted
jars of ginseng in the window. $11. edit
An invitation to the Brauhaus, Lincoln Square
- Chicago Brauhaus, 4732 N Lincoln Ave (Western Brown Line), ☎ +1 773 784-4444, [27]. 11AM-12AM, closed Tuesdays. Whenever you walk into the Brauhaus, you're
right on time for Oktoberfest, which has carried on for more than
forty years at this authentic, family-run German restaurant. If
schnitzel, brats, beer, and the Austrian Elvis sounds appealing,
mach schnell! $16-22.
edit
- Chiyo Japanese Restaurant, 3800 W Lawrence
Ave, ☎ +1 773
267-1555, [28]. W-M 5PM-midnight. Shabu-shabu, nabe, Kobe beef, and other
Japanese delights in Albany Park. Kaiseki (set) dinners $80, chef selections $40, a la
carte $5-7 per item. edit
- Joy
Ribs, 6230 N
Lincoln Ave, ☎ +1 773
509-0211. Korean BBQ,
starring duck, beef, and pork, with a house specialty of
pheasant. $44 for two people.
edit
- La Bocca della Verita, 4618 N Lincoln
Ave (Western Brown
Line), ☎ +1 773
784-6222, [29]. Su-Th 5-10PM, F-Sa 5-11PM. The Mouth of Truth is a slow-food favorite, as
the owners take their sweet time in preparing these faithful
Italian-from-Italy recipes. Dogs are welcome to accompany their
owners on the outdoor patio, with bowls of water available for hot
days. $16-22. edit
The Huettenbar, Lincoln Square
- The
Grind, 4613 N
Lincoln Ave (Western
Brown Line), ☎ +1 773
241-4482, [30]. M-F
7AM-10PM, Sa 8AM-10PM, Su 8AM-7PM. Wi-fi and plenty of outdoor seating.
edit
- Lutz Cafe & Pastry Shop, 2458 W Montrose
Ave, ☎ +1 773
478-7785, [31]. Su-Th
7AM-7PM, F-Sa 7AM-8PM. Enjoy
coffee and something sweet from this legendary bakery (est. 1948),
or just stop by to gaze in awe at the amazing display case. The
cafe has a nice outdoor garden (weather permitting).
edit
- The Perfect Cup, 4700 N Damen Ave (Damen Brown Line), ☎ +1 773 989-4177. M-F 6:30AM-9PM, Sa 7:30AM-9PM, Su 7:30AM-8PM.
A quiet coffee shop near the CTA with a
take-a-book leave-a-book policy. edit
- Schlegl's Bakery & Cafe, 3334 W Foster
Ave, ☎ +1 773
539-9207, [32]. Sip coffee and snack on a Bavarian pastry (or
two). edit
Bars
Not accidentally, you'll find more than a few karaoke joints on
Lincoln, Western, and Lawrence, near the Korean BBQ restaurants.
The rest listed here are upscale restaurant/bar combos and a few
affable dives.
|
Sin Strip slipping away
In the early days of the inter-state motorways, US-41 was the
route of choice between Chicago and Milwaukee. Twelve motels sprang up on Lincoln
Avenue between Peterson/Devon and Foster to accommodate road-weary
travelers, with giant neon signs bearing names like Stars, Tip-Top,
and Rio.
However, with the opening of the Edens Expressway (I-94), traffic
dried up on US-41. The full extent of what happened next depends on
who you ask; pretty much everyone will admit that, yes, some
hookers did take advantage of the hourly rates offered by some
motels, the name of the O Mi Motel did take on a certain irony, and
the Lincoln Avenue motels did come to be known as Sin Strip. It's
not a question of whether there was a cesspool; merely a debate
over whether the cesspool was all-encompassing.
Over the last ten years, the city government has been using every
legal maneuver in its considerable repertoire to get the Lincoln
Avenue motels closed, as part of the effort to remove centers for
crime and vice, and to prime a few more areas to join in Chicago's
real estate boom. Several have been condemned or sold to condo
developers. A handful do remain, however, and are run by owners who
insist that they run respectable businesses and are fighting to
stay open.
While perhaps not a place to bring a family keen on standard
Chicago tourist fare, there are a few things to be said for saying
on Sin Strip: the area has gentrified considerably, and it's no
longer particularly dangerous in the area. (Just a bit seedy.) The
CTA Brown Line is only a short bus ride or walk away, taking you
into the center of the city. The rates are a lot cheaper
than what you'll see downtown, especially for long-term stays. And,
of course, there are those impossibly cool signs...
|
Apache Motel, Albany Park
- Bad Dog Tavern, 4535 N Lincoln Ave (Western Brown Line), ☎ +1 773 334-4040, [33]. M
5PM-2AM, Tu-Th,F 12PM-2AM, Sa 11:30AM-3AM, Su 11AM-2AM.
A great pub with a menu worthy of an
upscale restaurant. Live music on Monday and Tuesday nights.
edit
- Cafe
Orange, 5639
N Lincoln Ave, ☎ +1 773
275-5040. 5:30PM-2AM
daily. Lively Korean bar with
flavored soju, ice cream, bi bim bop and a dance
floor. edit
- The Daily Bar & Grill, 4560 N Lincoln
Ave (Western Brown
Line), ☎ +1 773
561-6198, [34].
Su-F 12PM-2AM, Sa 12PM-3AM. The perfect distillation of a stylish 50's
diner and a full bar with enough screens to keep a sports fan
satisfied, along with a food menu of staples done well like mac 'n
cheese, pot pies, and cheesy tater tots. edit
- The
Grafton, 4530
N Lincoln Ave (Western
Brown Line), ☎ +1 773
271-9000, [35]. M-F
5PM-2AM, Sa 11AM-3AM, Su 11AM-2AM. Cozy Irish pub with better-than-average food
(and even better desserts). Live music on Wednesdays/Sundays
(Irish) and Tuesdays (folk). edit
- The Huettenbar, 4721 N Lincoln Ave (Western Brown Line), ☎ +1 773 561-2507. Su-F 11AM-2AM, Sa 11AM-3AM. A good neighborhood tavern with a top selection
of German beers. edit
- Lincoln Karaoke, 5526 N Lincoln Ave, ☎ +1 773 895-2299. M-Th,Su 7PM-3AM, F-Sa 7PM-5AM. Korean, Chinese, Japanese and English karaoke
heaven, with private rooms, free parking, and very
friendly staff. Rooms $25/hour, beer
$3. edit
- Montrose Saloon, 2933 W Montrose Ave (Kedzie Brown Line), ☎ +1 773 463-7663, [36]. A truly beautiful dive bar with games, cheap
beer, and a schedule of events that includes a bluegrass jam on the
second Wednesday of every month. edit
- Niedersachsen Club Chicago, 4548 N Lincoln
Ave (Western Brown
Line), ☎ +1 773
878-1020, [37]. A German-American social club, open to the
public on the first Saturday of every month. There's authentic
German food and drink on offer, and the Kappen Abend —
literally, "hat night" — is a showcase for "the craziest of crazy
hats," not to mention the occasional outbreak of a
schunkling circle. edit
- Rockwell's Neighborhood Grill, 4632 N
Rockwell (Rockwell
Brown Line), ☎ +1 773
509-1871, [38]. M-Th 4-10PM, F 4-11PM, Sa 10AM-11PM, Su
10AM-10PM. A neighborhood favorite
at the center of a small commercial district around the Rockwell
CTA station, not far from the river. The outdoor seating is
especially nice and will slip pleasant hours from your
pocket. edit
Sleep
The #11 Lincoln bus runs past all of the Sin Strip
motels (see infobox), and stops at the Western Brown Line
station in Lincoln Square.
- Apache Motel, 5535 N Lincoln Ave, ☎ +1 773 728-9400. Run by a friendly, eager family of Indian
descent (as in India, not the
yellow Native American Indian head that sits atop their sign).
Close to a public library. $50 per
night, plus $2 key deposit. edit
- Diplomat Motel, 5230 N Lincoln Ave, ☎ +1 773 271-5400. The southernmost of the surviving motels,
within a reasonable walk of Lincoln Square. Color TV proudly
offered. $62 per night. edit
- Guest
House, 2600 W
Bryn Mawr Ave, ☎ +1 773
561-6811. Right around the
corner from the O Mi, but with tons (comparatively) of parking and
a grand (comparatively) archway. King-size beds with television,
but no cable. $67 per night.
edit
- The O Mi Motel, 5611 N Lincoln Ave, ☎ +1 773 561-6488. Other than the candy-stripe turquoise/white
wall near the office, the O Mi is restrained in decor. It's across
the street from the Budlong Woods public library. $40 per night. edit
- The
Patio, 6250 N
Lincoln Ave, ☎ +1 773
588-8400. Famed for the
blue cursive in their neon sign: "Adventures in Living!"
$50 per night. edit
- The
Rio Motel, 6155 N Jersey Ave, ☎ +1 773 463-2733. Just off Lincoln, a reasonable walk from the
Indian food on Devon. Television, but no
cable. $52 per night. edit
- Summit Motel, 5308 N Lincoln Ave, ☎ +1 773 561-3762. Also within a reasonable walk of Lincoln
Square. $50 per night. edit
- Tip
Top Motel, 6060 N Lincoln Ave, ☎ +1 773 539-4800. Cable, kitchenettes, and air
conditioning. $49 per night.
edit
- Albany Park Branch Library, 5150 N Kimball
Ave (Kimball Brown
Line), ☎ +1 312
744-1933, [39].
M-Th 9AM-8PM, F-Sa 9AM-5PM. Free public internet access. Befitting its
location, this library has a strong collection of Korean-language
materials. edit
- Budlong Woods Branch Library, 5630 N Lincoln
Ave (11 Lincoln
bus), ☎ +1 312
742-9590, [40].
M-Th 9AM-9PM, F-Sa 9AM-5PM, Su closed.
Free public internet access, walking
distance from most of the motels. edit
- Mayfair Branch Library, 4400 W Lawrence
Ave (81 Lawrence
bus), ☎ +1 312
744-1254, [41].
M,W 12-8PM, Tu,Th-Sa 9AM-5PM, Su closed.
Free public internet access.
edit
- Sulzer Regional Library, 4455 N Lincoln
Ave (Western Brown
Line), ☎ +1 312
744-7616, [42].
M-Th 9AM-9PM, F-Sa 9AM-5PM, Su 1-5PM.
The regional library for the north side
of Chicago, with a huge collection and free public internet
access. edit
- A short walk south down Lincoln Avenue, in North Center, the
colorful spectre of Honest Abe's giant head (at the Lincoln
Restaurant) beckons all who enjoyed themselves in his Square.
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