I enjoy your interest in keeping chooks in the backyard, they've given me lots of pleasure and eggs over the 10 years I've kept them. Now we would like to offer the opportunity for you to experience keeping chooks with the option of returning them if it doesn't suit you.

Chooks are very easy pets to keep and require about the same level of experience and maintenance as a goldfish in a bowl! There are some simple legal constraints (as there are with dogs even) but if you don't live in a unit you should be able to meet these quite easily. Here's a quote from a council Environmental Health Officer (Warringah Council) that is based on the Local Government Act (the chook law if you like).

Roosters are prohibited.
There is no limit on numbers but they must be kept in a clean and healthy environment.
They must be kept in a coop that is of adequate size for the number kept
This structure must be a minimum of 4.5m from any dwelling (including the owners).
Firstly, not having roosters will not affect the hens laying at all, it only means the eggs are infertile and cannot turn into chicks.
Secondly, the birds must be housed in a suitable coop (the term suitable is very loose, meaning not too small for the number of birds, and able to be kept reasonably clean). It also means that they can free range in your yard as long as they are prevented from escape in some way. This means having an enclosed yard and clipping their wings. When I say an enclosed yard etc, really the only thing that matters is that you get along with your neighbours well enough that they won't mind a chook scratching around in their yard.
Thirdly, the 4.5m came from the old Local Government Act and I understand that this has been repealed. That being said I also understand that most Councils use the old Act as a guide when deciding if the chookkeeping is being done in a satisfactory manner.
And one last thing, the local council will only become involved if there is a complaint and at the time of writing (with over three hundred chicken coops sold all over Sydney) I have not had a single one returned because the Council has required the chooks to go. Touch wood…..
Clipping a wing is just like giving a haircut or clipping fingernails and all you are doing is trimming the flight feathers in one side so they cannot fly accurately.

Foxes are found all across Sydney (even in the middle of densely populated suburbs) and the birds need a coop that can be locked at night. The coop will also need a wire base or have the wire dug in deep as foxes will burrow into a cage to kill the birds (when they kill the whole flock to take one it is very distressing).

Don't worry about having to herd them into the coop at night as they will perch there naturally, all you have to do is lock them in. They are also very dopey and easy to catch at night so if one does decide to roost in the macadamia nut tree (as some of mine do) you can easily relocate her.

Chooks will also need food, water, shade and preferably some dirt to dust bathe in (they have a shower in the dirt, it's funny to watch). Food is kitchen scraps, scratchings from your garden (they will eat weeds better than a rotary hoe and devour recurring pests such as Onion Weed and Wandering Dew).
In my yard there is plenty of grass for them and I give them kitchen scraps, including the contents of the ' land at the back of the fridge' (mouldy old take away dinners, pizza etc, they love it!). Don’t be afraid to feed chooks meat, pasta, mouldy cheese or an ex-curry, they are robust eaters and will give most things a go.

To maintain laying, chooks should always have access to a seed/meal mix (coarse mash it is called) or pelletised chookfeed. Chook feed is available from some supermarkets or in bulk from stockfeed suppliers, I sell it as well. For most laying breeds 15%-16% protein in the chookfeed is considered essential to maintain regular laying and this is especially important for cross bred laying birds such as Isa Browns. All commercial feeds should have the protein content written on the bag.

Whenever you put food out for pets (dogs, cats chooks etc) you will attract mice and/or possums. I don't have a problem with them (even running a chook business) because I put out baits (or traps) for the mice a couple of times a year and that seems to keep things under control. The bulk chook food should be kept in a mouse proof container. The possums are another story though, and we are having a Mexican standoff at the moment with one of the blighters eating my apple tree!

Eggs are the free bonus and should be collected regularly. They are soooooo tasty and can be kept) for weeks. You'll soon discover the pleasure of a rich, gooey fresh egg and won't ever be satisfied with the bland, pasty, shop-bought offerings again!

If you have too many (as can happen in spring) give them away to neighbours and workmates (an easy way to make friends). Also, dogs and cats love them (nothing is wasted) and the shells I crush and chuck in with the chook scraps.

Cats (yours or local tresspassers) are rarely a problem, the chooks are too big to interest your average fat suburban moggie and I have not yet had a customer call me to say their chook has been eaten by a housecat. That being said, it is always advisable to supervise the interaction between existing and new pets.

Most dog breeds are ok with chooks. The exception can be with Terriers as they attack birds instinctively, but with all dogs it is advisable to watch the first interaction between the chook and the mutt.

Chooks live for 6 – 10 years approximately and lay the most eggs in their first laying years (they start to lay eggs at 6 months old approx). Over time most chooks will gradually reduce the number of eggs they produce but some stop and don’t restart and others lay an egg a day every day until they die (of exhaustion presumably!).

Chooks also lay best in spring and summer and fewer eggs in autumn and winter (generally). I’m told it relates to the length of daytime.

Chooks normally start laying eggs between 22 and 26 weeks old, but some chooks starting to lay will delay starting laying if that age comes in autumn or winter and some won’t commence laying until spring.
If, after regular laying, you are suddenly not getting eggs, go on an egghunt, you may have a secret second nest. Failing this, they may need worming, or alternatively you could try a feed with a higher protein content to kickstart them laying again. Remember, the egg laying generally slows down in Autumn and Winter and as they get older.

You should worm your chooks (about every 3 months) and there is no withholding period for eggs after the worming with the common wormer (Peperazine or some similar kind of drug-like name). The wormer is a liquid you put in their water.

Chooks can also get mites and lice (from native pigeons etc) and this is easy to treat for by dusting the birds and coop with a powder called Pestene. If you suspect this is a problem (ie you see them or you are inexplicably not getting eggs) flip the chook over and have a look at its rear end. Chooks will stop laying if they are being hassled by pests.

All chook medicines available from a stockfeed supplier or petshop, vets usually have them too if you have very deep pockets.

In terms of other chook health problems often the best thing to do (for a small domestic flock) is to wait and see if the bird recovers. I had a customer once tell me they were charged $160 by a vet for a check-up, overnight observation, euthanasia and disposal of a chook worth $25 to replace! I know they become pets but a little perspective is appropriate.

For more information there are plenty of books on chook keeping in libraries and Earth Gardenand Grass Roots Magazines often have articles for reference.

Good luck and go for it, I love my chooks and I'm sure you'll enjoy yours as much.
Dave 'Mr Chicken' Ingham

For more infomation visit my official site at http://www.rentachook.com.au/index.html


>>By Tom