From Wikitravel
St. Mary Lake, Glacier National Park.
- For other places with the same name, see Glacier National
Park (disambiguation).
Glacier National Park [1] is a United States National
Park and a UNESCO World Heritage site
that is on the northern border of Montana in the United States of America.
Understand
History
Glacier National Park borders Waterton Lakes National
Park in Canada — the two parks are known as the
Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park, and
were designated as the world's first International Peace Park in
1932. Both parks were designated by the United Nations as Biosphere
Reserves in 1976, and in 1995 as World Heritage
sites.
Mountain Goats on the trail near Gunsight Pass
Glacier National Park is a stunning display of the geological
processes that changed North America over the last billion years.
The rock formations in the park are almost entirely sedimentary,
laid down between 1600 to 800 million years ago when this area was
an inland sea. They were uplifted during the formation of the
Rockies beginning around 170 million years ago, and today contain
some of the best Proterozoic fossils in the world. The mountains
were carved into their present form by the advance and retreat of
glaciers during the last ice age, and the park, as its name
suggests, contains an abundance of glacial features, including
lakes, valleys, and remnant glaciers (although these have
diminished significantly in the last century).
Flora and fauna
The park offers many opportunities to see wildlife, and its
ecosystems are almost unchanged from what they were at the time of
Lewis and Clark. Different trails offer visitors close encounters
with animals from mountain goats to pine martens. The park is also
one of the largest remaining natural grizzly habitats, and during
late summer, grizzlies will often come to lower elevations to eat
the area's popular berries and catch fish in the lakes. In addition
to grizzly bears, the park is also home to two other endangered
species: the Canadian lynx and the bull trout. 23 species of fish
live in park waters, and fishing is a popular park activity.
Birdwatchers will find many species of waterfowl in addition to
larger birds of prey, including bald eagles.
Coniferous forest is the predominant ecosystem, although the
forest is visibly different on the east and west sides of the
Divide. Trails wind through subalpine meadows full of wildflowers
and alpine tundras.
Winter conditions at Granite Creek Avalanche Chute
Weather at Glacier National Park is often different depending on
your elevation and whether you are east or west of the
Continental Divide. The western side of the park
tends to receive the most rainfall, whereas the eastern side tends
to have higher winds and more sun. The Rockies effectively disrupt
the movement of air currents over the North American continent,
leading to this disparity in climate. The National Weather Service
issues separate weather forecasts for the two halves of the park,
which may be accessed online [2]
or checked a park information station before setting out. During
the park's summer season, temperatures during the day can reach as
high the 90s Fahrenheit (over 30 degress Celsius), but nighttime
lows in the highest elevations can occasionally be around 20
degrees Fahrenheit (less than -5 degrees Celsius). Snow can fall
during any part of the year, as demonstrated in August 1992, when a
foot of snow fell on the northeastern corner of the park [3].
If you are planning to visit the park during the winter season,
expect most of the park to be snow covered, and make sure you have
the right gear. Some trails and roads are closed off-season (and
bridges removed). Always prepare for a variety of conditions and
always bring rain gear. See also weather.
Wildfires are also a more or less common occurrence in the park.
According to the National Park Service, 2003 was one of Glacier's
hottest years on record, and large areas of the park were shut down
as 144,000 acres burned. [4]
In recent years, the park has become an important case study for
climate scientists studying climate change.
Research performed by the Northern Rocky Mountain Science Center
constructed parallel models of glacial melting and ecosystem change
in the park based on a linear temperature extrapolation scenario
and a carbon dioxide-induced global warming scenario, and estimated
that in the latter case, the park's glaciers would be entirely gone
by the year 2030. [5]
- Exploring Glacier National Park, David Rockwell. [ISBN
0-7627-2354-8] An insightful and well-written Falcon Guide to
Glacier National Park, with essay-style information on the flora,
fauna, and geology of the park.
- Hiking Glacier & Waterton Lakes National Parks,
Erik Molvar. [ISBN 1-56044-718-4]. A comprehensive guide to the
trails of both parks, complete with maps, difficulty assessments,
elevation charts, and useful and concise information about the
natural history relevant to the trail.
Get in
By train
If you have the extra time and want to see more of the country,
the train is a good alternative for traveling to Glacier National
Park. Since much of the early development of the park was led by
the Great Northern rail company, the railroad is an integrated part
of the park's history (and vice versa). Amtrak's Empire Builder
train service runs from Seattle and Portland through northern
Montana, North Dakota, Minnesota, and Wisconsin to Chicago. A
single train arrives from each direction daily at the three
stations serving the park:
- West Glacier Park Station (Amtrak station
code: WGL) - This historic railroad depot has a small historical
museum but no ticketing office or automated ticketing
machines.
Hwy 2 and Going-to-the-Sun Rd., West Glacier, MT 59936
- East Glacier Park Station (Amtrak station
code: GPK) - This station is open from May 1 through October
1.
400 Highway 49 North, East Glacier Park, MT 59434. (After October 1
and prior to May 1, Amtrak trains stop at Browning instead of
Glacier Park. Browning is not a staffed station.
In addition, trains will stop at the Izaak Walton
Inn at Essex Station (see under Sleep, below), by
request.
The train ride from Seattle/Portland is overnight and arrives in
Glacier National Park in the morning; the train from Chicago
arrives in the evening. The seats' ample legroom and lack of seat
belts make them far superior to their airplane counterparts, and in
combination with the train's Sightseer Lounge Car and
reasonably-priced dining car contribute to a relatively comfortable
journey.
A full-service Amtrak terminal (and one of their busiest) is
available at Whitefish, west of West Glacier, and
north of Kalispell. The station at East Glacier is also staffed May
1-October 1.
By plane
Visitors to the park may fly to Glacier Park
International Airport near Kalispell, Montana (IATA:
FCA) (25 mi/40 km from West Glacier). It's
possible to rent cars at the airport or take a shuttle (inquire
first before making reservation to a particular airport if you do
not wish to drive). Also, the destination of Missoula, Montana (IATA:
MSO) is possible, though an additional 120 miles
(190 km) must be driven. If you live near Los Angeles, San Francisco or Phoenix, there are non-stop flights to
Missoula, so, unlike Kalispell, you won't have to connect. Big Sky
Airlines went out of business in February 2008 and is no longer an
option. At Glacier Park Airport, U.S. Airlines and their connection
cities include Allegiant Air Las Vegas; Delta Air Lines (Salt Lake City);
Northwest Airlines (Minneapolis); United Airlines (Chicago, and San Francisco --
summer weekends only and Denver); and American Airlines/Alaska Airlines
via Horizon Airlines (Seattle).
Those already residing in the Inland Northwest have very few
options besides driving or taking Amtrak. Airline service from Spokane (the largest city in
the region) to Calgary and Kalispell has been suspended. To fly,
you must go through Seattle on Horizon air, then on to Kalispell,
It's quite costly (relative to the direct distance) to backtrack
like that.
By car
From the East: Take I-90 freeway to about 8
miles west of Missoula,
then exit at US Hwy 93 north (Exit #96). In Kalispell, turn right at US Hwy 2 East (Idaho
St.) From there it's 32 miles to the West Glacier entrance. OR, if
you're approaching from North Dakota on US 2, it's a straight shot
to Glacier Park. Heading west on I-94 across North Dakota, the
shortest route to Glacier is exiting at Glendive to Montana highway
200s to Circle, then north on Montana 13 to east of Wolf Point,
then west on Montana 25 to Wolf Point, then US 2 to Glacier Park.
If coming from the South (Great Falls) or East (Havre) and your
destination first is Waterton Lakes National Park, the fastest way
is taking US 2 to Cut Bank, and then going north on Montana
secondary 213 to Del Bonita, where it becomes Alberta highway 62.
At the "town" of Del Bonita, Alberta (2 miles from the border) turn
west on Alberta secondary 501 and go to Cardston, and then directly
to Waterton Lakes on Alberta highway 5. This is signficantly faster
than US 2/89 via Browning.
For East Glacier there are various routes including the I-15 Fwy
(see From the South below). However, from the freeways,
East Glacier via West Glacier is about the same time and distance.
The best route for those wanting to avoid Montana's freeways and
save over 250 miles is to follow I-94 just inside Montana from North Dakota and exit
#211. State Hwy 200S becomes 200 (no turns) and later becomes
shared with US Hwy 87. On the west side of Great Falls where the
highway merges into the freeway, take I-15 North for 12 miles and
Exit #290 in Vaughn. On US Hwy 89 go 105 miles to Browning in the
Blackfeet Indian Reservation. At the museum, turn left and take US
Hwy 2 into East Glacier. (If using I-90 you can join this route via
Billings. Follow State Hwy
3 at Exit #450, which is later shared with US 12 & 191. Turn
left at the end of the highway at "Eddies Corner" and follow as
above going to Great Falls.)
Don't underestimate the huge size of the state of Montana
(550 mi/880 km wide). Glacier Park is actually closer to Seattle than it is to far
eastern Montana.
From the West: Take I-90 freeway to Coeur d'Alene, Idaho (Exit #12, turn left) on to
US Hwy 95. Where US Hwy 2 and 95 split north of Bonners Ferry, turn
right to get US Hwy 2. From there, it's 167 miles to the West
Glacier entrance. Don't forget to set clocks an hour ahead when
entering Montana.
A slightly more ambitious (though fully paved) short cut is to
stay on the I-90 freeway up to St. Regis, Montana (Exit #33). Then
turn left on State Hwy 135 and go 21.6 miles, left on State Hwy 200
for 8.3 miles, right on State Hwy 28 for 46.7 miles, and left on US
Hwy 93 in Elmo on Flathead Lake. In Kalispell, turn right at US Hwy 2 East (Idaho
St.) This is a very scenic route along the Clark Fork River and
Flathead Lake (which both contain all the waters of Glacier Park
west of the Continental Divide) with farmlands in between. However,
gas (petrol) and other services are limited between the freeway and
Elmo.
Note: Using Hwy 200 east from Sandpoint, Idaho is not
recommended, as all north-south connections with US Hwy 2 in
between Libby and Kalispell are NOT paved! There's just no quick
and easy way to get through the Cabinet Mountains beyond 15-20
miles from the Idaho border.
From the North (Canada): If first visiting Waterton Lakes National
Park in Alberta, take
Canada Hwy 2 south to the junction of the Crowsnest Hwy 3. Then go
west (towards BC) 43 km and turn left at Pincher Station on Canada
Hwy 6 for another 50 km. Turn right at the junction of Hwy 5 to
enter the park. Upon leaving to get to Glacier, make two right
turns just after exiting the park, and follow Canada Hwy 6 for 22
km to the U.S. border. This becomes State Hwy 17; turn right in 23
km onto US Hwy 89. The first park entrance is Many Glacier in 7 km
(just after Babb).
Note: The international border is closed overnight between
Waterton and Glacier, so via Cardston is only way in (see below).
Bring US/Canadian pasport, passport card or enhanced driver’s
license. If bypassing Waterton, take Canada Hwy 2 south to Cardston
and cross the U.S. border. This becomes US Hwy 89. The first park
entrance is Many Glacier 17 km from the border.
From the South: Take freeway I-15 North to
Shelby, Montana (Exit #363) and turn left onto US Hwy 2. From there
it's 70 miles to East Glacier. A short cut would be to exit I-15 in
Vaughn, Montana (Exit #290) and take US Hwy 89 to Browning in the
Blackfeet Indian Reservation. At the museum, turn left and take US
Hwy 2 to East Glacier.
For West Glacier, transfer to I-90 West from I-15 (Exit #121)
just before Butte, Montana and
see From the East above.
By Foot
The Continental Divide Trail, a 3,100 mile United States
National Scenic Trail, has its northern trailhead in
Swiftcurrent Campground, accessible by car from
Babb, MT on Glacier Route Three. An alternate
route starts from the Apikuni Trailhead, also
located along Glacier Route Three. This trail exits the park at
Marias Pass to the south and runs south along the
Continental Divide to Mexico.
Fees/Permits
All private vehicles entering the park must pay a $25 fee that
is good for seven days. Individuals on foot or on bicycle must pay
a $12 fee, also good for seven days. A Glacier National Park Pass
is available for $30 and allows unlimited entry for one year. The
National Park Pass costs $80 and allows free entry to all national
park areas for one year.
Seniors age 62 and over (must be U.S. citizen or permanent
resident) may purchase a lifetime Golden Age Passport for
$10 which also allows admission to others in the same vehicle (even
if not seniors or U.S. residents). There is a 50% discount on
camping and other fees. This is valid at all
national parks in the USA.
Be sure to always have your receipt or permit card handy as
there are multiple entrances to the park and most people leave and
re-enter several times. US highways 2, 89 and 93 are outside of the
park, and park locations such as Many Glacier and Two Medicine are
only accessible by car from the Going to the Sun Highway
if you leave and re-enter. (A small portion of US Hwy 2 and the
Chief Mtn. Int'l Hwy are technically within the park's borders, but
there are no park services or entry gates there.)
Take a 'Jammer' tour bus trip around the park.
Shuttles and tour buses
Getting around the different parts of Glacier National Park is
easiest by car, although some shuttles and tour buses do run inside
the park, particularly on Going-to-the-Sun Road. Shuttles can be
relatively expensive ($8 for each major segment of the routes,
which connect the Belton Chalet to St. Mary's Visitor Center and
even cross the border to enter Waterton National Park in Canada,
where they terminate at the famous Prince of Wales Hotel. Red tour
buses called Jammers (so named after the old practice of
jamming the gears in place to climb steep hills) are much more
expensive but a beloved fixture of the park to many tourists. They
have now been modernized to run on natural gas.
The National Park Service also operates free shuttles along the
Going-to-the-Sun Road [6].
These shuttles run every fifteen or thirty minutes. However,
intervals may differ depending on road construction.
Visitors without cars should acquaint themselves well with the
shuttle schedules before setting out as they run infrequently and
often fill up fast.
Hitchhiking is also a viable way to travel among destinations
along Going-to-the-Sun Road, but be sure to thumb vehicles down
from a turn out or shuttle stop so that they can safely pull over
to pick you up.
By bicycle
Bicycles are permitted on Going-to-the-Sun Road, and though the
ride may be beautiful and rewarding, bikers should be advised that
the elevation gain makes the route strenuous and many segments are
along steep cliffs without shoulders. Some portions of
Going-to-the-Sun Road are closed to cyclists during high-traffic
hours of the day for this reason. Bicycles are not allowed on
trails.
By foot
With over 700 miles of trails, Glacier Park is best enjoyed
through hiking. A good waterproof topographic trail map of Glacier
National Park and Waterton National Park is available from National
Geographic, complete with GPS checkpoints[7]. Major
trailheads are located at the Swiftcurrent Motor Lodge, Logan's
Pass, and at the Lake McDonald Lodge. Trails range from short,
handicap-accessible paths to 8-12 mile day hikes to long extended
backpacking trails. If you plan to camp at backcountry sites,
reservations will be necessary (see Backcountry section). Popular
trails include:
- Trail of the Cedars (0.7 miles) -
handicapped-accessible, partially paved and partially a boardwalk.
Beautiful views of old-growth forest and Avalanche Gorge. Trailhead
at Avalanche Creek Campground on Going-to-the-Sun Road.
- Garden Wall portion of the Highline Trail
(11.6 miles) - day-hike accessible even to beginners. Trail follows
the Garden Wall, a striking ridge along the continental divide.
Views of subalpine meadows and alpine tundra as you skirt the
dramatic face of the Garden Wall itself. Trailhead at Logan's Pass
Visitor's Center. The Granite Park Chalet, a no-frills historic
chalet which sells food and water to hikers (and provides potable
water to guests with reservations), is located along the trail at
mile 7.6. The trail ends at the Loop, from where you can take a
shuttle back to Logan's Pass.
- The Continental Divide National Scenic Trail
(3,100 miles) - the least well-maintained of the triumvirate of
National Scenic Trails (along with the Pacific
Crest Trail and the Appalachian Trail), the Continental
Divide National Scenic Trail runs from Waterton in Canada to Marias
Pass on the southern edge of Glacier National Park before
continuing south all the way to Mexico. The trail includes a
variety of terrain within the park and can be accomplished in about
ten days, depending on the backpacker's speed.
For visitors intending to hike extensively in Glacier National
Park, the Falcon Guide Hiking Glacier and Waterton Lakes
National Parks (ISBN 1-56044-718-4) is a comprehensive and
invaluable guide, offering trail distances and thorough
descriptions.
Note that during the winter, some trails and roads will be
closed due to snow, and in the summer a one-way system may be in
operation at busy times.
See Read for maps and other material to help you plan
your trip.
Rental car
Dollar Rent-a-Car has pick-up and drop-off at all all the major
train stations, and the Kalispell airport. There's no one-way fee,
if for example, you arrive by train and leave by plane. All of the
Dollar Rent-a-Car locations around Kalispell, Whitefish, and
Glacier Park are run by the same franchise. Some aren't fully
staffed and have a key drop. If you demand full-service, Avis has
several staffed locations, but it's more expensive. Always check
before taking rental cars into Canada, but most companies will
allow. Also, inquire in advance if you plan on driving on unpaved
roads and what the company's towing policy is. Unlimited mileage is
almost a must in a big state like Montana, so check online first.
In a pinch, there are also car rental facilties in the town of Cut
Bank (see Get out section below).
- Going to the Sun Highway. The most spectacular
viewpoints in the park are along this road. It is closed to traffic
in Winter and open from June - Oct. Depending on weather, it will
be open as early as Memorial Day weekend (May 27-30). You can check
the road status online at [8].
Highlights include Lake McDonald, Logan Pass at the Continental
Divide, Rising Sun, and St. Mary Lake. Road construction is
possible in the summer with just one lane open to traffic (and
opposing traffic held back). At about 6,600 feet (2,000 meters),
Logan Pass is the highest drivable point in or near the park.
- US Hwy 2 on the south side of the park. Also
crosses the Continental Divide, though at a lower elevation than
Logan Pass on the Going to the Sun Road. This is the route used by
the Amtrak trains. The view of the forest, river, train tracks and
a railroad tunnel all together in one location is very scenic.
Several wilderness areas (no roads) are just to the south.
- Looking Glass Hill Road (State Hwy 49) has an
excellent view of Lower Two Medicine Lake from the top of the hill.
Also, it's a shortcut (though narrow and winding) from East Glacier
to the east side of the park, so you don't have to go all the way
to Browning and back. Beware there is no guardrail on this road. If
concerned, only take this road in the northbound direction, so you
won't be driving in the outer lane above the steep edge.
- US Hwy 89 connects with roads going into the
park at St. Mary (Going to Sun Road) and Babb (to Many Glacier). It
then continues north where it intersects with Chief Mountain
International Highway (see below). Excellent views of St. Mary and
the lake from the hills north and south of the town. Though
unmarked, the Hudson Bay/Gulf of Mexico Divide is 4.5 miles south
of the Going to the Sun Highway junction in St. Mary with
Divide Mountain on the west side.
- Chief Mountain International Highway (State
Hwy 17) connects Glacier National Park with Waterton Lakes in Alberta. Bring US/Canadian
pasport, passport card, or enhanced driver’s license if you plan to
enter Canada.
- Two Medicine Road begins four miles north of
East Glacier, and runs on the north side of Lower Two Medicine
Lake. A very easy (no hills) and short path goes to Running Eagle
(Trick) Falls. Bears are frequently spotted in this area.
- Cut Bank Creek Road is an unpaved road on the
park's east side 14 miles south of St. Mary. A trail (not for
beginners) goes to Triple Divide Pass where the Continental Divide
splits three ways between the Pend Oreille-Columbia Rivers (mouth
near Portland, Oregon at Astoria), Missouri-Mississippi
Rivers (mouth near New
Orleans), and the Saskatchewan-Nelson Rivers (to western Hudson
Bay in Manitoba).
Facilities are primitive, and this area is only for the most
adventurous. However, it's only 5 miles west of the US 89 Hwy,
making a quick visit for a few photos possible also.
- Inside North Fork Road is an unpaved road
running north on the west side of the park which begins just north
of Apgar at Lake McDonald. Note that all the campgrounds on this
far western side of the park are primitive, without running water.
This road may be closed at times.
- Camas Road runs nearly parallel to Inside
North Fork Road but is paved. It leads to the Huckleberry
Mountain Nature Trail. Both roads will eventually take you to
Polebridge, but this route is paved most of the way -- except for a
section in the middle. Note that all the campgrounds on this far
western side of the park are primitive, without running water.
Out of your car
Leaving your car for a day hike or extended backpack gives you
access to the park's extensive trail system. Trails for all ability
levels and time frames exist (see Getting Around section).
Investigate the park at a more leisurely place and see its stunning
geologic formations, lakes, waterfalls, glaciers, and wildlife for
yourself. Sights well worth the effort include:
- Sperry Glacier. Sperry Glacier Overlook can be
reached by a steep climb up a trail from the Sperry Chalet (2.5
miles to Comeau Pass). The hike takes you by secluded alpine lakes
and boulder-strewn meadows and up a stairway hewn into the rock,
from which you emerge at Comeau Pass to be greeted by breathtaking
views of the Little Matterhorn, Bearhat Mountain, and Mt. Reynolds.
Another mile, marked (sometimes confusingly) by cairns, takes you
to the edge of the glacier, where there is now a sign with
information about the glacier's history. This trail is also one of
the best places in the park to see families of mountain goats up
close. The glacier itself is worth seeing, since scientists predict
that it have completely disappeared between 2030 and 2050 [9]. The Sperry Chalet is also
worth seeing, and has a dining hall where non-guests can purchase a
hot lunch from an a la carte menu.
- Lake McDonald and St Mary Lakes. The first and
second largest lakes in the park, on the west and east side of the
continental divide, respectively. The lakes provide opportunities
for various activities like boating (canoe and rowboats may be
rented from concessions in Apgar and other locations), swimming,
fishing, and some of the most beautiful sunsets and sunrises in the
park. Both can be accessed by Going-to-the-Sun Road and each are
home to campgrounds and historic lodges.
- Glacier Park Lodge Lobby. Built in 1913 on the
eastern edge of the park, the Glacier Park Lodge was one of Great
Northern's luxurious hotels that provided an entrypoint from the
railroad into the park. The lobby is an impressive display of the
park's early aesthetics.
- Iceberg Lake. Iceberg Lake is a beautiful and
popular destination that can be reached by a 4.5 mile (7 km) hike
out of a trailhead at Swiftcurrent Inn. The Lake is aquamarine with
glacial silt, and surrounded by steep, glacier-carved cliff faces.
On the hike you will have the opportunity to see the Ptarmigan
Falls, the Ptarmigan Wall, many wildflowers, mountain goats, and
perhaps even grizzly bears.
View of Red Eagle Mountain
- Biking - Bicycles are restricted to bike
paths, roadways, and parking areas. Check the National Park
Service's Glacier website for path, and road closures. Bikes are
forbidden on trails. Bicycle rental is not available in Glacier
National Park. It is possible to bike the length of
Going-to-the-Sun Road, but the park limits bike access during peak
traffic hours since many portions of the road do not have
shoulders. The best times of day to go are the early morning or
late afternoon. Although it is easiest to bike the road from east
to west, be prepared for a steep elevation gain as you approach
Logan Pass and cross the Continental Divide from either
direction.
- Boating - Boat tours are available at Many
Glacier, Two Medicine, Rising Sun, Waterton Lake, and Lake
McDonald. Personal motorized boats are permitted on some of the
park's lakes, but usually limited to 10 hp motors.
- Camping - There are several dozen backcountry
campgrounds along the trail system, as well as frontcountry
campgrounds available to motorists and RVers.
- Winter Activities - Park visitors during the
winter (approximately December - April) may explore the park using
skis or snowshoes. Some trails may be closed due to avalanche or
snow-related hazards, and visitors should check conditions with a
ranger before departure and check out after return.
- Fishing - Glacier is famous for its great
trout fishing. Fishermen may fish without permits and can keep any
fish they catch, but are advised to clean fish carefully: throw
entrails into water far from shore, as the smell of fresh fish will
attract bears.
- Hiking - Over half of the visitors to Glacier
National Park report taking a hike along some of the park's 700
miles of trails. Hikers can purchase topographical maps, trail
guides, and field guides at visitor centers.
The Trail of the Cedars, Huckleberry Mountain, Hidden Lake, Sun
Point, and Swiftcurrent Nature Trails are hiker friendly and have
signs that dot the trails to help hikers. The Trail of the Cedars
is wheelchair accessible.
- Horseback riding - Most of the park's trail
system is open to horses. Guided trips and horse rentals available
at Many Glacier, Waterton Lake, Two Medicine, Rising Sun, and Lake
McDonald Lodge.
- Best place to eat is the Cattle Baron Supper
Club in Babb, serving great steaks. A must when you're in
this part of Glacier National Park. You'll hear about this place on
the trail. Also the interior decor is way cool, and stories of
Blackfeet Indian history, and the family of the owners are offered
on interesting placemats with a native flute playing lightly which
enhances the ambiance.
- Another local favorite is the Park Cafe in St.
Mary's on Highway 89. (3147 hwy 89, Saint Mary, MT 59417.
1-(406)-732-4482.) Expect to wait an hour or longer on weekends as
weary hikers and local residents alike crowd the small restaurant
for their famous pies (those in the know go early for the fresh
strawberry pie, which usually sells out before dinnertime). The
other menu items are many and of good quality. Mid price range. No
reservations. Park Cafe closes for the off-season (mid-September).
[10]
- If you want to purchase specialized backpacking
food, some of the camp stores in St Mary, Rising Sun, West
Glacier, and other major points of entry sell a limited selection.
By the end of the season (early September), however, be advised
that most of these stores will be closing and your choices will be
grim or nonexistent. Therefore, bring your own food if
possible.
- While not within the park confines, Polebridge mercantile, on
the road up the western side of the park, carries the usual coffee
and provisions along with an array of microbrews and a wide
selection of homemade sandwiches, sweetrolls, and "savory breads",
that is, breads with cheese, nuts, or vegetables baked in.
Shoulder-season visits are (as expected) less hectic.
Drink
Charlie's Place in Babb is the preferred watering hole for party
crazy Glacier area summer workers. The bar is home to various bands
who play bluegrass, jam/funk and reggae every Thursday night. Also
sing Karaoke every Saturday. BabbFest is July 29 and features, The
Dirty Dozen Brass Band, DuWayne Burnside and the Mississippi Mafia,
Playas Club Funk (the guys from Signal Path) and many others.
Charlie's is also home to a secret pizza recipe that is the best
this side of Chicago (seriously, the best)!
Also try: Hooks Hideaway (cowboy bar) 4 miles north/east of
Babb, Duck Lake Lodge (fisherman's hang-out), Kipp's Beer Garden in
St. Marys or grab a couple cases and make your own bar in the great
outdoors of Glacier. Be sure to clean up your mess though!
- Glacier Park Lodge [11] (Ph. 406-892-2525)
- Glacier Park Lodge is located across the street from the East
Glacier Park AMTRAK train station on Highway 2 in East Glacier,
Montana. The hotel has a heated swimming pool and nine-hole golf
course. Televisions, elevators, and air conditioning are NOT
available.
- Izaak Walton Inn [12] (Ph. 406-888-5700) -
in Essex was originally built as accommodation for railway
personnel on the adjacent Great Northern Railway. Still retaining
it's railroad ambience, guests can stay in the hotel itself from
$100 per night, or choose to lodge in a converted railroad caboose.
The Izaak Walton has its own Amtrak stop, served by the
Chicago-Seattle-Portland "Empire Builder" daily.
- Lake McDonald Lodge & Complex [13] (Ph.
406-892-2525)- Lake McDonald Lodge & Complex is located eleven
miles inside the park from the west entrance on the Going To The
Sun Road. This hotel has 100 rooms, ranging from motel style rooms
to upmarket hotel suites. Televisions, elevators and air
conditioning are NOT available.
- Many Glacier Hotel - Many Glacier Hotel is
Glacier National Park's largest hotel with 208 rooms and is in the
northeast area of the park and is eleven miles west of Babb,
Montana on Highway 89.
- Great Lodges of Glacier Tour - This 6-day/5-night tour
offered by Glacier Park, Inc. (a private concession) advertises a
leisurely circuit of all of the park's historic lodges (Glacier
Park, Many Glacier, Lake McDonald, and the Prince of Wales Hotel in
Waterton National Parks). (Ph. 406-892-2525)[14]
- Thronson's Motel (Ph. 406-732-5530) - Babb,
MT, eight miles north of St. Mary on Hwy 89, at the turnoff for
Many Glacier. Thronson's has TV, phone, and the best rates in the
park. Plus, Thronson's has a charming general store, 24 hr gas
pumps, the delicious Babb Press (breakfast, lunch, and dinner; very
reasonable prices), and is within stumbling distance of Charlie's
Bar, which hosts live music throughout the summer and serves
delicious homemade pizza and the stiffest drinks on the East Side.
Also within walking distance of Charlie's more refined cousin, The
Cattle Baron Supper Club. Best steak in Montana.
- Glacier Trailhead Cabins are nice!
- Red Eagle Motel in St Marys
- Historic Belton Chalet [15] (Ph. 406-888-5000) -
Located within walking distance from the Belton/West Glacier train
station, the Belton Chalet is a charming historic chalet built
around 1910. Room rates vary by season ($135-$285 in July and
August, $115-$205 in June, September and October). Rooms contain
one queen sized bed and a private bathroom. No TV or phone. Private
cabins are available and fill up very fast. The Chalet has a high
quality and high price range restaurant and bar. Continental
breakfast and shuttle service to and from the train station are
complimentary.
- Granite Park Chalet and Sperry
Chalet [16] - These two
historic chalets, dating from ca. 1914, are accessible only through
hiking trails. They are the only two chalets remaining of the
original six operated by Great Northern, and are supplied by weekly
or biweekly mule trains. The Granite Park Chalet ($70 first person,
$68 each additional person) can be most easily reached by a 7.6
mile hike from Logans Pass along the Highline Trail, and is now a
simple backpacker's lodge. A kitchen and composting toilets are
available to guests, as well as potable water (which guests are
asked to assist in fetching themselves). Accommodations are
spartan, and linens are provided for an extra $15. The Sperry
Chalet [17] is by
contrast luxurious, with correspondingly higher prices ($160 first
person, $110 additional persons in same room with maximum occupancy
of 5/room). It can be most easily reached by a 6.7 mile uphill
climb from Lake McDonald Lodge or a spectacular 13.6 mile trek from
Jackson Glacier Overlook on Going-to-the-Sun Road. Three meals are
included - a box lunch, and hot dinner and breakfast served in the
chalet's cozy dining room. Linens are provided and bathrooms are
pit toilets with running water in the sinks outside. Both chalets
offer complimentary hot drinks for their guests in the evening. The
season is from July to September, and reservations should be made
months in advance. All trash must be packed out.
Camping
There are thirteen developed campgrounds located within the
park. These campgrounds may be accessed by car. Unless noted as
"primitive", all contain a disposal station for trash. The sites
are generally for a maximum of one vehicle, two tents, and eight
people. Payment seems to be mostly on the honor system (keep in
mind, however, that the National Parks system doesn't ask much and
needs more), though you must register within half an hour of
arrival. Plan to keep your food and scented items in your vehicle.
Campers without vehicles may find the larger developed campsites
more like a suburban cul-de-sac with SUVs in every driveway than a
wilderness retreat; if you backpack in you can feel outnumbered by
other park visitors who brought their own firewood, fresh ears of
corn, wine, cosmetics, and other heavy luxuries. Nightly fees are
per campsite. All dates listed are for 2006.
- Apgar, southern end of Lake McDonald (From
Going-to-the-Sun Road, turn onto Glacier Route 8 (Camas Road). A
short distance along this road will bring you to Apgar
Village.)
[18]. Largest campsite in the park, with 194 sites (25 can
accommodate a trailer or RV), flush toilets, sinks with running
water, and summer evening programming at the Apgar Amphitheater.
Apgar Village has a restaurant, gift shops, and a ranger station.
Swimming and boating possible in Lake McDonald, and boat rentals
and horseback ride reservations are available nearby. No showers or
reservations. Open 5/5-10/16. $15/night.
- Avalanche (On Going-to-the-Sun
Road.)
[19]. Popular campsite providing access to Trail of the Cedars
and Avalanche Creek trailheads. Flush toilets, running water,
evening programs at Avalanche Amphitheater. 85 sites (50
accommodate RV). No showers or reservations. Open 6/9-9/5.
$15/night.
- Bowman Lake, North Fork Area (From
Going-to-the-Sun Road, take Glacier Route 8 to Glacier Route 7
(Inside North Fork Road). Shortly after passing through Polebridge,
where there is a ranger station, take a right onto a bumpy dirt
road for Bowman Lake.)
[20] Primitive campsite right on Bowman Lake, with access to
Quartz Lake Loop, Bowman Lake, and Numa Ridge Lookout trailheads.
48 sites, RVs and trailers not advised. Potable water and pit
toilets. First come first serve. Open 5/26-9/15. $12/night.
- Cut Bank (not to be confused with the town 50
miles to the east), eastern side of park (From Highway 89, take
a 5 mile dirt road to the campsite.).
[21] Primitive and secluded campsite, with access to
Continental Divide National Scenic Trail. 14 sites, RVs and
trailers not advised. No potable water (bring your own water or
some means of purifying water from Cut Bank Creek). Open 5/26-9/25.
$6/night.
- Fish Creek, on western shore of Lake McDonald,
an area recovering from a large forest fire in 2003 (From
Going-to-the-Sun Road, take Camas Road to turn on Glacier Route 7
(Inside North Fork Road). Campground will be on right.).
[22] Large campground near but not directly on Lake McDonald
offering flush toilets, running water, and nightly evening programs
at the Fish Creek Amphitheater. Access to Howe Lake, Howe Ridge,
and McDonald Lake trailheads. 178 sites, 18 of which accommodate
RVs or trailers. Advance reservations may be made online [23] or by phone
(1-(800)365-2267 but are not required. Open 6/1-9/5.
$17/night.
- Kintla Lake, North Fork area (From
Going-to-the-Sun Road, take Glacier Route 8 (Camas Road) north
until reaching the righthand turn onto a dirt road that leads to
Kintla Lake.)
[24] Glacier National Park's smallest campground, with only 13
sites. It is also one of the most remote, and therefore is usually
pretty empty. Non-motorized boats allowed on lake, and lake is full
of trout. Site is primitive but has a potable water source. No
reservations. Open 5/26-9/15. $12/night.
- Logging Creek, North Fork area (From
Going-to-the-Sun Road, take Glacier Route 8 (Camas Road ) to
Glacier Route 7 (Inside North Fork Road). ) (
[25] Very small, primitive, secluded campground with 7 sites
and no potable water (bring your own). Access to Logging Lake
trailhead. No reservations. Open 7/1-12/1. This site is
currently closed. $6/night.
- Many Glacier (From Highway 98, take
Glacier Route 3 west into park. The large lake on the left is Lake
Sherburne.)
[26] Large, popular campsite near the Swiftcurrent Motor Lodge,
restaurants, token-operated showers, and the Swiftcurrent Pass,
Piegan Pass, Grinnell Glacier, Iceberg Lake, and Ptarmigan
trailheads. Also useful for backpackers through-hiking the
Continental Divide National Scenic Trail (of which Switftcurrent
Pass and Piegan Pass Trails are a part). Flush toilets, sinks, and
nightly ranger-led programming. 110 sites, 13 accommodate RVs and
trailers. Open 5/26-9/25. $15/night. Very Popular place to spot
bears.
- Quartz Creek (North of Logging Creek
campground on Inside North Fork Road.)
[27] This primitive campground is the smallest developed
campground in the park, with only 7 sites and accessible only by a
long, winding dirt road (RVs and trailers not advised). Quartz
Creek trailhead is easily reached from the campsite. No potable
water or reservations. Pit toilets. Open 6/30-7/17. $6/night.
- Rising Sun, on St Mary Lake (On
Going-to-the-Sun Road.)
[28] Amenities include showers, flush toilets, a disposal
station, camp store, restaurant, and nightly programming. Shuttle
stop. 83 sites, 10 of which can accommodate vehicles up to 25'. No
reservations. Open 5/26-2/18. $15/night.
- Sprague Creek (On Going-to-the-Sun
Road.)
[29] About a mile south of Lake McDonald Lodge, the Sprague
Creek campground is sandwiched between Lake McDonald and
Going-to-the-Sun-Road. Only 25 sites, with towed vehicles and RVs
prohibited, and one group site reserved until 10 PM for bicyclists
or backpackers. The beauty of Lake McDonald is marred by the
campground's proximity to the highway - traffic, including
motorcycles, is both visible and audible well into the night. The
campsite is not convenient to any trailheads so if you want to
hike, plan to drive first. Flush toilets, picnic tables, and a
communal bear box are provided. Evening programming at Lake
McDonald Lodge. No showers or reservations. Open 5/12-9/18.
$15/night.
- St. Mary (On Going-to-the-Sun Road.)
[30] Large campground on St. Mary Lake near the St. Mary
Visitor Center. Beautiful views of the lake, flush toilets, running
water, shuttle service, and the small town of St Mary about half a
mile away, outside the park. 148 sites, 25 of which can accommodate
RVs/trailers. Advance reservations can be made online [31] or by calling
(800)365-2267. Open 5/26-9/26. $17/night.
- Two Medicine
[32] 99 sites, 13 of which can accommodate RV/trailer up to
35'. Campstore in only building remaining of historic Two Medicine
Chalet. Flush toilets, no reservations. Open 5/26-9/18.
$15/night.
Backcountry
Glacier National Park is one of the most popular national parks
in the US for backcountry camping, and backcountry sites offer
great opportunities for extended trips through some of the park's
more remote areas. Backcountry camping permits ($4/night/person or
$50 for the park for the year) are required and can be obtained
from the any of the visitor centers before 4:30 PM and within 24
hours of your departure on a first come first served basis. To be
issued the permit, the member of your party designated as the "trip
leader" will have to watch a 15 minute movie about safety
precautions in Glacier National Park. All of the backcountry sites
require reservations, and some sites fill up months in advance
(especially Gunsight Lake, Lake Ellen
Wilson, and Sperry campgrounds, along the
Gunsight Pass Trail, among others). Advance
reservations can be made by calling (406) 888-7800. These cost
extra. Trail status, campsite availability, and general information
on Glacier's backcountry is available at a National Park Service
website:[33]
Campgrounds generally have designated sites with tent pads and
separate areas for cooking and eating, bearpoles (a convenient way
to hang your food and scented items out of the reach of bears), and
pit toilets (in which toilet paper but no other trash may be
thrown). Campers are required to pack out all of their garbage;
when you receive your permit a ranger will give you plastic bags
for this purpose.
To ensure a safe and comfortable stay in the back-country of
Glacier National Park, visitors are urged to bring their own
backpackers' stove (not all campgrounds allow fires, and firewood
may be hard to find in the winter), rope (about 40 feet to hang
bags from bear pole), and water purification system (pump filter of
1 micron or less, chlorine or iodine tablets). None of the
backcountry campsites have potable water. See section on Safety for
more detailed information.
Although the trails are clearly marked and easy to travel
without help, guided hiking tours into the backcountry are offered
by Glacier Wilderness Guides (P. O. Box 535, West
Glacier, MT 59936. (406) 387-5555.) Gear rental also available.
Stay Safe
Wildlife
Glacier National Park is the rare area of the United States
where all of its pre-Columbian predators are still alive and well.
The most dangerous of these are bears - both grizzly
bears and the smaller black bears. The
park is a great habitat for bears, and signs at every major
trailhead warn that you are "entering grizzly country". Most hikers
in the park prefer to buy bear spray (~$50, available at camping
stores in West Glacier and St. Mary), which has a range of 30-40
feet and is known to deter a bear in the rare case that it becomes
aggressive. The best precaution against bears, however, is to make
noise while you are hiking to avoid surprising one and to allow it
to identify you as human. When entering thickets or rounding
corners, simply start talking to let any animals know you are
coming. Some people carry whistles or bells to make noise on the
trail, but others consider this measure useless or even
counter-productive. Should you encounter a grizzly bear, avoid eye
contact, turn sideways to appear smaller and less threatening, and
slowly back away. It is rare that a bear would become aggressive,
but if a grizzly bear charges, clacks its teeth, makes woofing or
huffing noises, or waves its head from side to side, drop to the
ground on your stomach or in the fetal position, protecting your
face and neck (big backpacks are helpful for this). Most grizzly
charges are "mock" charges, and while terrifying the bear normally
turns away. During black bear encounters, gather your group
together to appear as large as possible, and make noise to help the
bear identify you. In the very rare case that the bear becomes
aggressive, fight back. When you get your permit, you will be
advised with up-to-date information about recent bear activity on
your planned route. Pets are prohibited on trails because they may
provoke bears.
Note that most bear encounters occur as a result of incorrect
food storage. Bears are attracted to odors, so do not leave your
pack unattended and be sure to hang any food, cooking equipment,
scented toiletries, and clothes used for cooking from bear poles at
night. Do not wash dishes or eat near your sleeping area as bears
may come into camp looking for scraps. When leaving a car in the
park overnight, remove all scented items (including toiletries) and
store them in bear-proof lockers.
Other predators include mountain lions. While more reclusive
than bears, mountain lions have still been known to maul hikers. If
you encounter a mountain lion, make your self appear as large as
possible and speak to it in a loud, firm voice.
Firearms are prohibited in the park.
Water
It is essential to drink lots of water while you are hiking to
avoid dehydration. Unless you are going on a very
short hike, you should consider carrying at least 2 liters of water
with you. If you will be going a long distance, make sure you know
where you can get more water. Lakes, streams, and waterfalls are
good sources but all water obtained in the backcountry should be
purified with a hand pump (filter of at least 1 micron) or iodine
or chlorine tablets to remove contamination by Giardia
lamblia, a common parasite caused in Glacier Park mainly by
beaver feces. Infection causes giardiasis, a type
of gastroenteritis that manifests itself with severe diarrhea and
abdominal cramps. Other symptoms can include bloating, flatulence,
fatigue, nausea, vomiting and weight loss.
Weather
Weather can be unpredictable, and snow or
rain are possible throughout the summer. Make sure
to have a waterproof layer. In cold weather, bring a warm layer,
and make sure if you're camping that your sleeping bag stays
dry.
Rainfall can be frequent in the spring, late summer, and fall.
The driest time of year is around the July 4th holiday. However,
the highest elevations frequented by visitors normally have snow on
the ground every month of the year except August (i.e. trail to
Hidden Lake from Logan Pass). If you do come in August (the most
popular month), have alternate plans in case it
rains (see Get out section below). The east side
has less rainfall than the west side does, so sometimes it can be
wet on one side and sunny on the other. Go all the way east to the
US 93 Hwy; just traveling a mile or two down the mountain pass is
not sufficient.
Calling 1-800-226-7629 will provide you with information about
weather and road conditions.
Wildfires
Wildfires are a natural part of the ecosystems in Glacier
National Park. They are allowed but controlled by the National Park
Service and fire response teams. Before you set out, check for fire
warnings with a ranger. Trails in dry areas are sometimes closed
due to high sensitivity to wildfires.
Get out
Day Trips
- Blackfeet Nation Indian Reservation - The
reservation is home to the Blackfeet Nation and borders Glacier
National Park to the west. Its northern border is shared by
Canadian province Alberta.
The seat of government is Browning. [34]
- Waterton Lakes National
Park (406)888-7800[35]
Bring US/Canadian pasport, passport card or enhanced driver’s
license.
- Whitefish - Whitefish is a small
city of 5,000 west of Glacier National Park about 27 miles
southwest of West Glacier. To get there from the park, take US Hwy
2 south from West Glacier to MT-40. This will take you to US-93,
which leads into Whitefish. The city draws tourists during the
winter for its ski resorts, including Big Mountain Ski Area. During
the summer, you can golf on five courses or catch a performance by
the Alpine Theater Project (a professional Equity summer theater
group)[36].
- Kalispell - In case of rain (which
happens frequently), Kalispell is a nice small city of about 20,000
(Metro 80,000) located 32 miles west of West Glacier on US Hwy 2.
It has an indoor mall in the center of the city three blocks south
of the US Hwy 2 (Idaho St.)/US Hwy 93 (Main St.) junction with a
J.C. Penny, Montana's Herberger Department Store, plus many smaller
stores. Also, there's a new shopping complex on both sides of US
Hwy 93 North just before W. Reserve Dr. (2.5 to 3 miles north of
the center). A COSTCO store (members only) with a gas station is
located here, as well as a Target store on the other side. For
getting back to Glacier Park on Hwy 2 East, turn right just after
the Home Depot onto W. Reserve Dr. and go 2.5 miles to connect with
US Hwy 2 called "La Salle Dr." (turn left toward Wendy's).
Likewise, coming from Glacier turn right on to Reserve Dr. just
after Wendy's Restaurant (about 5 mile south of the airport), go
2.5 miles, then left on US Hwy 93 at the Home Depot. Separately,
Wal-Mart is on US Hwy 2 (Idaho St.) about 1.5 miles east of the
center, while K-Mart is a just little further in the NW corner of
the block where US Hwy 2 turns left to the north and becomes "La
Salle Dr." All shopping in Montana is Tax
Free.
- Cut
Bank (Not to be confused with the campground
inside the park) - One problem with Glacier National Park is
that many of its prime attractions are east of the Continental
Divide (Glacier Park Lodge, Many Glacier Lodge, Two Medicine, St.
Mary, road access to Waterton) but the closest "major" cities (by
Montana standards) are on the west side (Kalispell and Whitefish).
While not a tourist destination unto itself, Cut Bank, a 45-minute
drive from East Glacier Park has many services tourists may find
useful. Cut Bank has two major grocery stores (Albertson's, IGA),
both on the west end of town; Albertson's has a pharmacy and IGA is
in a shopping center with a pharmacy; Both grocery stores have a
deli. The shopping center ("Northern Village") also has a Ben
Franklin, a dollar store, a western wear outlet, Candy Bouquet, a
restaurant, and other food outlets. Fast food franchises in town
include Pizza Hut, McDonald's, Subway, and Taco John's. One of only
nine remaining JC Penney stores in the state of Montana is in
downtown Cut Bank. Cut Bank also has car dealerships for the three
major U.S. car companies: GM (Bell Motor), Ford (Northern Ford),
and Chrysler (Northern Chrysler). The GM and Ford dealerships, as
well as Rent-A-Wreck will rent cars. Amtrak stops in Cut Bank
(though the station is not staffed) and car rental agencies will
arrange to meet the train with prior notice. Car rentals in Cut
Bank are more expensive than in Great Falls, but east of the
divide, the next closest city with car rental facilities is Great
Falls. The next closest city with car dealerships for service is
Conrad, about midway between Cut Bank and Great Falls. Cut Bank
also has two auto parts stores and other auto repair facilities, as
well as other restaurants, bars, a campground, motels (the Super 8
and Glacier Gateway Inn are to be recommended). Far from being a
shopping mecca, Cut Bank at least offers many goods and services
tourist might need less than an hour from Glacier National Park,
and considerably closer than the only other alternative east of the
divide: Great Falls.
- The Flathead National Forest is named after
the Flathead Indians who lived in the area. The forest is located
just south of Glacier National Park in the Rocky Mountains with
elevations ranging from less than 4,500 feet to over 8,500 feet
(1400 to 2600 m). The Forest provides habitat for approximately 250
species of wildlife and 22 species of fish. As with most of the
national forest system, parts of the forest's 2.3 million acres are
designated wilderness and parts are not (these latter may be
privately owned and commercial activities including logging can
take place there), and visitor activities are much less regulated
than in the National Park system. Camping is possible in most of
the forest without a permit, although there are also designated
campgrounds and cabins available for rent. Hike 2,800 miles of
hiking trails or pick up to 10 gallons of berries (over 10 requires
a permit). Two commercial downhill ski resorts are also available.
(406)758-5200 [37]
| Routes through Glacier National Park |
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