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Khajuraho Group of Monuments*
UNESCO World Heritage Site

A typical temple at Khajuraho with divine couples. Note lace-like ornamentation on the major and the minor shikharas.
State Party  India
Type Cultural
Criteria i, iii
Reference 240
Region** Asia-Pacific
Inscription history
Inscription 1986  (10th Session)
* Name as inscribed on World Heritage List.
** Region as classified by UNESCO.

The Khajuraho Group of Monuments in Khajuraho (Hindi: खजुराहो), a town in the Indian state of Madhya Pradesh, located in Chhatarpur District, about 620 kilometres (385 mi) southeast of New Delhi, are one of the most popular tourist destinations in India. Khajuraho has the largest group of medieval Hindu and Jain temples, famous for their erotic sculpture. The Khajuraho group of monuments has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and is considered to be one of the "seven wonders" of India.

The name Khajuraho, ancient "Kharjuravahaka", is derived from the Sanskrit word kharjur meaning date palm.

Contents

Town

Khajuraho
Khajuraho
Location of Khajuraho
in Madhya Pradesh
Coordinates 24°51′N 79°56′E / 24.85°N 79.93°E / 24.85; 79.93
Country  India
State Madhya Pradesh
District(s) Chhatarpur
Population 19282 (2001)
Time zone IST (UTC+05:30)
Area
Elevation

283 m (928 ft)

Khajuraho (Hindi: खजुराहो) is a town in the Indian state of Madhya Pradesh, located in Chhatarpur District, about 620 kilometres (385 mi) southeast of New Delhi, the capital city of India.

One of the most popular tourist destinations in India, Khajuraho has the largest group of medieval Hindu and Jain temples, famous for their erotic sculpture. The Khajuraho group of monuments has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and is considered to be one of the "seven wonders" of India.

The name Khajuraho, ancient "Kharjuravahaka", is derived from the Sanskrit word kharjur meaning date palm.

Geography

Khajuraho is located at 24°51′N 79°56′E / 24.85°N 79.93°E / 24.85; 79.93.[1] It has an average elevation of 283 metres (928 feet).

Demographics

As of 2001 India census,[2] Khajuraho had a population of 19,282. Males constitute 52% of the population and females 48%. Khajuraho has an average literacy rate of 53%, lower than the national average of 59.5%: male literacy is 62%, and female literacy is 43%. In Khajuraho, 19% of the population is under 6 years of age.

History

In the twenty-seventh century of Kali yuga, the Mlechcha invaders started attacking North India. Some Bargujar Rajputs moved eastward to central India; they ruled over the Northeastern region of Rajasthan, called Dhundhar, and were referred to as Dhundhel/Dhundhela in ancient times, for the region they governed. Later on they called themselves Bundelas and Chandelas; those who were in the ruling class having gotra Kashyap were definitely all Bargujars; they were vassals of Gurjara - Pratihara empire of North India, which lasted from 500 C.E. to 1300 C.E. and at its peak the major monuments were built. The Bargujars also built the Kalinjar fort and Neelkanth Mahadev temple, similar to one at Sariska National Park, and Baroli, being Shiva worshippers. The city was the cultural capital of Chandela Rajputs, a Hindu dynasty that ruled this part of India from the 10-12th centuries. The political capital of Chandelas was Kalinjar. The Khajuraho temples were built over a span of 200 years, from 950 to 1150. The Chandela capital was moved to Mahoba after this time, but Khajuraho continued to flourish for some time. Khajuraho has no forts because the Chandel Kings never lived in their cultural capital.

The whole area was enclosed by a wall with eight gates, each flanked by two golden palm trees. There were originally over 80 Hindu temples, of which only 25 now stand in a reasonable state of preservation, scattered over an area of about 20 square kilometres (8 sq mi). Today, the temples serve as fine examples of Indian architectural styles that have gained popularity due to their explicit depiction of sexual life during medieval times. Locals living in the Khajuraho village always knew about and kept up the temples as best as they could. They were pointed out to an Englishman in late 19th century but the jungles had taken a toll on all the monuments.

Architecture

The temples are grouped into three geographical divisions: western, eastern and southern.

The Khajuraho temples are made of sandstone, they didn't use mortar the stones were put together with mortise and tenon joints and they were held in place by gravity. This form of construction requires very precise joints. The columns and architraves were built with megaliths that weighed up to 20 tons.[3]

Lakshmana temple at Khajuraho, a panchayatana temple. Two of the four secondary shrines can be seen. Another view

These temples of Khajuraho have sculptures that look very realistic and are studied even today.

The Saraswati temple on the campus of Birla Institute of Technology and Science, Pilani, India is modeled after the Khajuraho temple.

                                                                  Composed By,
                                                                  Naseem Khan

Chronology

The temples have been assigned the following historical sequence by Dr. Kanhaiyalal Agrawal.[4]

Sequence Modern name Original Deity Note
1 Chausath Yogini 64 Yoginis Est 9th c.
2 Brahma Brahma Eastern group
3 Lalgun Mahadev Shiva Contemp to 2
4 Matangeshwar Siva In active worship
5 Varaha Varaha
6 Lakshman Vaikuntha Vishnu Lakshavarma Inscription
7 Parshvanath Adinath Pahil inscription 954 AD, Jain Compound
8 Vishvanath Shiva Dhanga inscription Sam 1059
9 Devi Jagadambi Initially Vishnu but today Parvati
10 Chitragupta Surya
11 Kandariya Mahadeva Shiva Largest
12 Vamana Vamana Eastern Group
13 Adinath Jina Jain compound
14 Jawari Vishnu Eastern group
15 Chaturbhuja Vishnu Southern
16 Duladev Shiva South end
17 Ghantai Jina Only some columns remaining

Statues and carvings

The Khajuraho temples do not contain sexual or erotic art inside the temple or near the deities; however, some external carvings bear erotic art. Also, some of the temples that have two layers of walls have small erotic carvings on the outside of the inner wall. There are many interpretations of the erotic carvings. They portray that, for seeing the deity, one must leave his or her sexual desires outside the temple. They also show that divinity, such as the deities of the temples, is pure like the atman, which is not affected by sexual desires and other characteristics of the physical body. It has been suggested that these suggest tantric sexual practices. Meanwhile, the external curvature and carvings of the temples depict humans, human bodies, and the changes that occur in human bodies, as well as facts of life. Some 10% of the carvings contain sexual themes; those reportedly do not show deities, they show sexual activities between people. The rest depict the everyday life of the common Indian of the time when the carvings were made, and of various activities of other beings. For example, those depictions show women putting on makeup, musicians, potters, farmers, and other folks. Those mundane scenes are all at some distance from the temple deities. A common misconception is that, since the old structures with carvings in Khajuraho are temples, the carvings depict sex between deities.[5]

Another perspective of these carvings is presented by James McConnachie. In his history of the Kamasutra, McConnachie describes the zesty 10% of the Khajuraho sculpture as "the apogee of erotic art": "Twisting, broad-hipped and high breasted nymphs display their generously contoured and bejewelled bodies on exquisitely worked exterior wall panels. These fleshy apsaras run riot across the surface of the stone, putting on make-up, washing their hair, playing games, dancing, and endlessly knotting and unknotting their girdles....Beside the heavenly nymphs are serried ranks of griffins, guardian deities and, most notoriously, extravagantly interlocked maithunas, or lovemaking couples."

While the sexual nature of these carvings have caused the site to be referred to as the Kamasutra temple, they do not illustrate the meticulously described positions. Neither do they express the philosophy of Vatsyayana's famous sutra. As "a strange union of Tantrism and fertility motifs, with a heavy dose of magic" they belie a document which focuses on pleasure rather than procreation. That is, fertility is moot.

Dr. Devangana Desai points out that there is a misunderstanding regarding representation of homosexuality in Khajuraho sculptures. It is not depicted in Khajuraho sculptures. There are two sculptures mistaken as gay figures:

  1. The much talked about scene, often misunderstood as depicting lesbian love, is the head-down sculpture on the north wall of the Vishvanatha temple of the site. The top figure whose back is seen in the panel looks like a woman, but is actually a man, whose genitals can be seen from below. The figure is mistaken for a woman because of the hair tied in a bun at the back, which was a male hair style prevalent in medieval India.
  1. The other, often misunderstood sculpture is on the south wall of the Devi Jagadamba temple. Here a bearded Shaiva (Kapalika) ascetic threatens a nude Kshapanaka monk to join his religious order, by holding his organ and raising his other hand to hit him. The monk is shown with folded hands as if surrendering. These figures represent two characters of the allegorical play Prabodhachandrodaya, staged in the Khajuraho region in the 11th century. There is no gay relationship involved in the sculptural scene.

The strategically placed sculptures are "symbolical-magical diagrams, or yantras" designed to appease malevolent spirits. This alamkara (ornamentation) expresses sophisticated artistic transcendence over the natural; sexual images imply a virile, thus powerful, ruler.[6]

Between 950 and 1150, the Chandela monarchs built these temples when the Tantric tradition may have been accepted. In olden days, before the Mughal conquests, when boys lived in hermitages, following brahmacharya until they became men, they could learn about the world and prepare themselves to become householders through examining these sculptures and the worldly desires they depicted.

While recording the television show 'lost worlds' for the history channel at Khajuraho Alex Evans, a contemporary stone mason and sculptor gave his expert opinion and forensically examined the tool marks and construction techniques involved in creating the stunning stonework at the sites. He also recreated a stone sculpture under 4 feet that took about 60 days to carve in an attempt to develop a rough idea how much work must have been involved. [7] Roger Hopkins and Mark Lehner also conducted experiments to quarry limestone which took 12 quarrymen 22 days to quarry about 400 tons of stone.[8] These temples would have required hundreds of highly trained sculptors.

Landscape

The Khajuraho temples are now set in a parkland landscape. When India gained independence from Britain in 1947 the landscape setting was semi-desert and scrub. The archaeological park now has something of the character of an English public park, with mown grass, rose beds and ornamental trees. This may be popular with visitors but has no relationship with the historic landscape at the time the temples were built.

The development of landscape archaeology as an academic discipline raises questions concerning the earlier landscape of Khajuraho and the original relationship between the temple complex and the surrounding area. There are no records of what the original landscape might have been, but it is known that a large community of priests used the temple complex and that Indian gardens in the tenth century were predominantly tree gardens. They did not have lawns or herbaceous flowering plants.

Tourism

Khajuraho temple complex offers a well made light and sound show every evening. The first show is in English language and the second one in Hindi. The show is about an hour long and covers the history, philosophy and the art of sculpting of these temples. It is held in the open lawns in the temple complex.

Recent discovery

The Archaeological Survey of India has recently started digging on a mound where perhaps the largest underground temple in Khajuraho has been unearthed. The dig will take at least a couple of years to conclude.[9]

See also

References

  1. ^ Falling Rain Genomics, Inc - Khajuraho
  2. ^ "Census of India 2001: Data from the 2001 Census, including cities, villages and towns (Provisional)". Census Commission of India. Archived from the original on 2004-06-16. http://web.archive.org/web/20040616075334/http://www.censusindia.net/results/town.php?stad=A&state5=999. Retrieved 2008-11-01. 
  3. ^ "Lost Worlds of the Kama Sutra" History channel
  4. ^ Khajuraho, Kanhaiyalal Agrawal, Macmillan India, 1980 (in Hindi)
  5. ^ "Khajuraho", liveindia.com
  6. ^ McConnachie, James (2005). The Book of Love, the Story of the Kamasutra. Metropolitan Press. pp. 46–47. 
  7. ^ "Lost Worlds of the Kama Sutra" History channel
  8. ^ Lehner, Mark The Complete Pyramids, London: Thames and Hudson (1997)p.202-225 ISBN 0-500-05084-8.
  9. ^ http://www.iloveindia.com/indian-monuments/khajuraho-temples.html

Further reading

  • Phani Kant Mishra, Khajuraho: With Latest Discoveries, Sundeep Prakashan (2001) ISBN 8175741015
  • Devangana Desai, The Religious Imagery of Khajuraho, Franco-Indian Research P. Ltd. (1996) ISBN 81-900184-1-8
  • Devangana Desai, Khajuraho, Oxford University Press Paperback (Sixth impression 2005) ISBN 978-0-19-565643-5

External links


Khajuraho Group of Monuments*
UNESCO World Heritage Site
State Party Template:Country data India
Type Cultural
Criteria i, iii
Reference 240
Region** Asia-Pacific
Inscription history
Inscription 1986  (10th Session)
* Name as inscribed on World Heritage List.
** Region as classified by UNESCO.

Khajuraho (Hindi: खजुराहो) is a village in the Indian state of Madhya Pradesh, located in Chhatarpur District, about 385 miles (620 kilometres) southeast of Delhi, the capital city of India.

The Khajuraho group of monuments has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

One of the most popular tourist destinations in India, Khajuraho has the largest group of medieval Hindu and Jain temples, famous for their erotic sculpture. The name Khajuraho, ancient "Kharjuravahaka", is derived from the Sanskrit word kharjur meaning date palm.

Contents

History

In the 27th century of Kali yuga the Mlechcha invaders started attacking North India some Bargujar Rajputs moved towards east to central India, they ruled over North-Eastern region of Rajasthan called Dhundhar and were referred to as Dhundhel/Dhundhela in ancient times, for the region they governed. Later on they called themselves Bundelas and Chandelas those who were in the ruling class having gotra Kashyap were definitely all Bargujars they were vassals of Gurjara - Pratihara empire of North India which lasted from 500 C.E. to 1300 C.E. and was at its peak when major monuments were built. The Bargujars also built the Kalinjar fort and Neelkanth Mahadev temple similar to one at Sariska National Park and Baroli, being Shiva worshipers. The city was the cultural capital of Chandela Rajputs, a Hindu dynasty that ruled this part of India from the 10th to the 12th centuries. Political capital of Chandelas was Kalinjar. The Khajuraho temples were built over a span of 200 years, from 950 to 1150. The Chandela capital was moved to Mahoba after this time, but Khajuraho continued to flourish for some time. Khajuraho has no forts because the Chandel Kings never lived in their cultural capital.

The whole area was enclosed by a wall with eight gates, each flanked by two golden palm trees. There were originally over 80 Hindu temples, of which only 25 now stand in a reasonable state of preservation, scattered over an area of about 8 square miles (21 km²).

The temples of Khajuraho suffered destruction by early Muslim invaders between c. 1100-1400 AD as various disfigured statues at the temple complex attest. Today, the temples serve as fine examples of Indian architectural styles that have gained popularity due to their explicit depiction of the traditional way of sexual life during medieval times. Locals living in the Khajuraho village always knew about and kept up the temples as best as they could. They were pointed out to an English man in late 19th century and the jungles had taken a toll on all of the monuments.

Geography

Khajuraho is located at 24°51′N 79°56′E / 24.85°N 79.93°E / 24.85; 79.93.[1] It has an average elevation of 283 metres (928 feet).

Demographics

Khajuraho
Khajuraho
Location of Khajuraho
in Madhya Pradesh
Country Template:Country data India
State Madhya Pradesh
District(s) Chhatarpur
Population 19,282 (2001)
Time zone IST (UTC+5:30)
Area
Elevation

283 m (928 ft)

Coordinates: 24°51′N 79°56′E / 24.85°N 79.93°E / 24.85; 79.93

As of 2001 India census,[2] Khajuraho had a population of 19,282. Males constitute 52% of the population and females 48%. Khajuraho has an average literacy rate of 53%, lower than the national average of 59.5%: male literacy is 62%, and female literacy is 43%. In Khajuraho, 19% of the population is under 6 years of age.

Architecture

The Khajuraho temples, constructed with spiral superstructures, adhere to a northern Indian shikhara temple style and often to a Panchayatana plan or layout. A few of the temples are dedicated to the Jain pantheon and the rest to Hindu deities - to God's Trio, Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva, and various Devi forms, such as the Devi Jagadambi temple. A Panchayatana temple had four subordinate shrines on four corners and the main shrine in the center of the podium, which comprises their base. The temples are grouped into three geographical divisions: western, eastern and southern.

With a graded rise secondary shikharas (spires) cluster to create an appropriate base for the main shikhara over the sanctum. Kandariya Mahadeva, one of the most accomplished temples of the Western group, comprises eighty-four shikharas, the main being 116 feet from the ground level.

The Khajuraho temples are made of sandstone, they didn't use mortar the stones were put together with mortise and tenon joints and they were held in place by gravity. This form of construction requires very precise joints. The columns and architraves were built with megaliths that weighed up to 20 tons. [3]

temple.  Two of the four secondary shrines can be seen. Another view ]]

These shikharas – subordinate and main – attribute to the Khajuraho temples their unique splendor and special character. With a graded rise of these shikharas from over the ardhamandapa, porch, to mandapa, assembly hall, mahamandapa, principal assembly hall, antarala, vestibule, and garbhagriha, sanctum sanctorum, the Khajuraho temples attain the form and glory of gradually rising Himalayan peaks. These temples of Khajuraho have sculptures that look very realistic and are studied even today.

The Saraswathi temple on the campus of Birla Institute of Technology and Science, Pilani, India is modeled after the Khajuraho temple.

Chronology

The temples have been assigned the following historical sequence by Dr. Kanhaiyalal Agrawal.[4]

Sequence Modern name Original Deity Note
1 Chausath Yogini 64 Yoginis Est 9th c.
2 Brahma Vishnu[verification needed] Eastern group
3 Lalgun Mahadev Shiva Contemp to 2
4 Matangeshwar Siva In active worship
5 Varaha Varaha
6 Lakshman Vaikuntha Vishnu Lakshavarma Inscription
7 Parshvanath Adinath Pahil inscription 954 AD, Jain Compound
8 Vishvanath Shiva Dhanga inscription Sam 1059
9 Devi Jagadambi Initially Vishnu but today Parvati
10 Chitragupta Surya
11 Kandariya Mahadeva Shiva Largest
12 Vamana Vamana Eastern Group
13 Adinath Jina Jain compound
14 Jawari Vishnu Eastern group
15 Chaturbhuja Vishnu Southern
16 Duladev Shiva South end
17 Ghantai Jina Only some columns remaining

The statues and carvings of Khajuraho

The Khajuraho temples do not contain sexual or erotic art inside the temple or near the deities; however, some external carvings bear erotic art. Also, some of the temples that have two layers of walls have small erotic carvings on the outside of the inner wall. There are many interpretations of the erotic carvings. They portray that, for seeing the deity, one must leave his or her sexual desires outside the temple. They also show that divinity, such as the deities of the temples, is pure like the atman, which is not affected by sexual desires and other characteristics of the physical body. It has been suggested that these suggest tantric sexual practices. Meanwhile, the external curvature and carvings of the temples depict humans, human bodies, and the changes that occur in human bodies, as well as facts of life. Some 10% of the carvings contain sexual themes; those reportedly do not show deities, they show sexual activities between people. The rest depict the everyday life of the common Indian of the time when the carvings were made, and of various activities of other beings. For example, those depictions show women putting on makeup, musicians, potters, farmers, and other folks. Those mundane scenes are all at some distance from the temple deities. A common misconception is that, since the old structures with carvings in Khajuraho are temples, the carvings depict sex between deities.[5]

Another perspective of these carvings is presented by James McConnachie. In his history of the Kamasutra, McConnachie describes the zesty 10% of the Khajuraho sculpture as "the apogee of erotic art": "Twisting, broad-hipped and high breasted nymphs display their generously contoured and bejewelled bodies on exquisitely worked exterior wall panels. These fleshy apsaras run riot across the surface of the stone, putting on make-up, washing their hair, playing games, dancing, and endlessly knotting and unknotting their girdles....Beside the heavenly nymphs are serried ranks of griffins, guardian deities and, most notoriously, extravagantly interlocked maithunas, or lovemaking couples."

While the sexual nature of these carvings have caused the site to be referred to as the Kamasutra temple, they do not illustrate the meticulously described positions. Neither do they express the philosophy of Vatsyayana's famous sutra. As "a strange union of Tantrism and fertility motifs, with a heavy dose of magic" they belie a document which focuses on pleasure rather than procreation. That is, fertility is moot.

The strategically placed sculptures are "symbolical-magical diagrams, or yantras" designed to appease malevolent spirits. This alamkara (ornamentation) expresses sophisticated artistic transcendence over the natural; sexual images imply a virile, thus powerful, ruler.[1]

Between 950 and 1050, the Chandela monarchs built these temples when the Tantric tradition may have been accepted. In olden days, before the Mughal conquests, when boys lived in hermitages, following brahmacharya until they became men, they could learn about the world and prepare themselves to become householders through examining these sculptures and the worldly desires they depicted.

While excavating Khajuraho Alex Evans a stone mason and sculptor recreated a stone sculpture under 4 feet that took about 60 days to carve. [2] Roger Hopkins and Mark Lehner also conducted experiments to quarry limestone which took 12 quarrymen 22 days to quarry about 400 tons of stone.[3] These temples would have required hundreds of highly trained sculptors.

Landscape

The Khajuraho temples are now set in a parkland landscape. When India gained independence from Britain in 1947 the landscape setting was semi-desert and scrub. The archaeological park now has something of the character of an English public park, with mown grass, rose beds and ornamental trees. This may be popular with visitors but has no relationship with the historic landscape at the time the temples were built.

The development of landscape archaeology as an academic discipline raises questions concerning the earlier landscape of Khajuraho and the original relationship between the temple complex and the surrounding area. There are no records of what the original landscape might have been, but it is known that a large community of priests used the temple complex and that Indian gardens in the tenth century were predominantly tree gardens. They did not have lawns or herbaceous flowering plants.

Tourism

Khajuraho temple complex offers a well made light and sound show every evening. The first show is in English language and the second one in Hindi. The show is about an hour long and covers the history, philosophy and the art of sculpting of these temples. It is held in the open lawns in the temple complex.

Recent Discovery

Archaeological Survey of India has recently started dig on a mound where perhaps the largest underground temple in Khajuraho has been unearthed. The dig will take at least a couple of years to conclude.[citation needed]

See also

References

  1. ^ McConnachie, James (2005). The Book of Love, the Story of the Kamasutra. Metropolitan Press. pp. 46-47. 
  2. ^ "Lost Worlds of the Kama Sutra" History channel
  3. ^ Lehner, Mark The Complete Pyramids, London: Thames and Hudson (1997)p.202-225 ISBN 0-500-05084-8.

Central India Travel Guide - Khajuraho

Further reading

  • Phani Kant Mishra, Khajuraho: With Latest Discoveries, Sundeep Prakashan (2001) ISBN 8175741015
  • Devangana Desai, The Religious Imagery of Khajuraho, Franco-Indian Research P. Ltd. (1996) ISBN 81-900184-1-8
  • Devangana Desai, Khajuraho, Oxford University Press Paperback (Sixth impression 2005) ISBN 978-0-19-565643-5

External links


Travel guide

Up to date as of January 14, 2010

From Wikitravel

Khajuraho
Khajuraho

Khajuraho[1] is a small town located in the Bundelkhand region (Chhatarpur District) of Madhya Pradesh and is famous for groups of Hindu and Jain temples. These temples are a UNESCO World Heritage Site for their beautiful and erotic rock carvings.

Khajuraho has the Vindhya range of mountains as its beautiful backdrop. This makes Khajuraho a more fascinating destination [2] to visit.

Understand

Khajuraho's art is a manifestation of the essence of the philosophy of Indian aesthetics. The erotic sculptures of Khajuraho depicting Kama Sutra are unique in the world. These sculptures representing the Indo-Aryan architecture, congeal in stone a lyrical paean to love and passion and reflect the Chandela dynasty's passion and immense appreciation for the forbidden art, paradoxically, in the land of Kama Sutra. They cannot be passed off as just erotic sculptures, the temples have some of the most revered Gods of Hinduism.

History

The temples of Khajuraho were built between 950 to 1050 A.D. during the Chandela dynasty of Central India (These rulers claimed descent from the moon, hence the name Chand-ela). After the decline of the Chandela dynasty in 13th century, the temples were left under the cover of dense date palm trees for many years, which gave the city of Khajuraho its name, Khajur in Hindi means a date. In the ancient times it was known as Vatsa.

In 1838, a British army engineer, Captain T.S. Burt rediscovered them. By that time only 22 of the original 85 temples had survived.

Climate

Khajuraho's climate is quite extreme, with wide variation in day and night temperatures along with minimal rainfall. Summers are hot at 45°C and winters pleasant at 27°C. Rainfall of 114 cms annually. As summer is too hot, winter is a good time to visit. A good time to visit is March, when the annual Dance Festival takes place. So the best time to visit Khajuraho is from September to March.

Talk

Hindi is spoken widely, English should not be a problem for the tourists. Dutch, French are also spoken by the guides and at the restaurants/hotels.

Get in

By plane

Khajuraho Airport (IATA: HJR) Tel:+91 7686 740-415 is located 5 km from the city, and is served by Air India (fomerly Indian Airlines) [3] offering flights from Delhi, Varanasi and Mumbai, Jet Airways [4] offering flights from Delhi and Varanasi and Kingfisher offering flights from Varanasi. If one is not prepared for a 5 hr bumpy ride from Jhansi to Khajuraho, then the plane is the best mode.

By train

A train station was finally opened in Khajuraho in 2008, linking it to Jhansi (Uttar Pradesh) (175km) on the Delhi-Chennai/Bangalore/ Trivandrum mainline. NOTE: You can not buy train tickets at the Khajuraho train station! You must go to the BUS station, about 1km walk out of town, to buy train tickets (much cheaper than buying tickets through your hotel). UP Sampark Kranti Express (Train number 2448) runs from Delhi H. Nizamuddin to Khajuraho 3 times a week (Tuesday, Friday and Sunday). It departs from H. Nizamuddin at 21.35 hrs and reaches Khajuraho next day morning at 07.50 hrs.

The other options to reach Khajuraho is through Jhansi. It takes around 6 hours to reach Jhansi from Delhi by train, and another 3-4 hours (plus connecting time) to go to Khajuraho. Get the Dakshin Express from Delhi (22:50 hrs) and reach Jhansi by 05:00 hrs, connecting to the Jhansi-Khajuraho Link Passenger(Train No:229A) which now runs along with Jhansi-Allahabad Passenger(Train No:229) starts from Jhansi at 7:20AM and reaches Khajuraho at 12:10PM. Another option is the Bhopal Shatabdi train from delhi (6.00) to Jhansi.Train from Khajuraho to Jhansi departs from Khajuraho at 12:25PM and will reach Jansi by 5.30PM. Both the trains have stoppage at Orchha.

An alternative station is Satna (Madhya Pradesh) (117km) on the Allahabad-Mumbai main line. Another option is Mahoba station on the Varanasi- Jhansi Route.Alight at Mahoba and catch the 11:00AM Passenger(Train No:229A) to Khajuraho.

By taxi/bus

Satna and Jhansi both are connected to Khajuraho by regular bus service. It takes around 3 hours to reach Khajuraho from Satna or Jhansi by taxi, and 5-6 hours by bus. There are daily bus services with Satna, Jhansi, Harpalpur, Chhatarpur, Mahoba, Sagar,Jabalpur, Bhopal, Indore, Gwalior, Panna, Agra, Allahabad and Varanasi. From Jhansi railway station catch a rickshaw to Jhansi bus station which is 5Kms away. It is very difficult to get a bus to Khajuraho from Jhansi after 5PM. So try to reach Jhansi by afternoon if you want to catch a bus to Khajuraho from Jhansi.
Khajuraho to Bandhavgarh (225km, 5hrs), Satna (117km, 4hrs),] Harpalpur (94km), Jhansi (172km )and Mahoba (61km). Khajuraho is located 600km (11hrs journey) south-east of Delhi. There are bus services from Agra (12 hrs), Gwalior (9hrs) and Jhansi.

Taxis are recommended because the condition of buses and roads are not good, and the ride is gruelling.

Get around

A good way to get around and see the temples as well the village life in Kharujaho is by bicycle, which you can easily rent in the bike shops near the main temple complex, or bicycle rickshaw. They charge Rs.20 per day.

Beware of the fake school teachers, principals and students who are too much interested in your dollars as donation, which hardly goes to the school itself.

By car

You can easily visit Khajuraho through Car. There are many car rental companies available which provide services.

  • Enterprises Car Rental
  • Savaari Car Rental,Savaari [5] has a reputation for providing quality luxury car rentals in Khajuraho
  • Hertz Car Rental

See

In every temple, there is the depiction of royalty, armies, wrestling, kinship, war, courtship, marriage, lovemaking, music and dancing, spiritual teachings, union, meditation, bliss, gods, goddesses, plants, animals and an abundance of all human forms.

One of the Temples
One of the Temples

Western Group of Temples

There is a entry fee of Rs. 10/- (for Indians) and USD $ 5 (for foreigners) to enter the Western Group of temples. All the temples are open from sunrise to sunset. These are the richest and largest of all temple groups

  • Lakhmana Temple - The oldest and finest of the western group of temples, named after the ruler that built the temple. The A horizontal beam over the entrance of this beautiful Vaishnavite temple shows the trinity of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva with Lakshmi, Vishnus consort.
  • Kandariya Mahadeo Temple - This temple is decorated with a profusion of sculptures that are among the greatest masterpieces of Indian art.
  • Devi Jagdamba Temple - Dedicated to the Goddess(devi), this is smaller and much more delicately proportioned temple and is home to some of the finest sculptures of Khajuraho.The garbha griha has a huge image of the Devi of the Universe (Jagdambi), though it appears to have started as a Vishnu temple. It has the usual three bands of sculptures, but the third and most uppermost of these houses some of the most erotic sculptures.
  • Chaunsat Yogini - The only granite temple in the Khajuraho group
  • Chitragupta Temple - is dedicated to the Sun God (Surya), it faces eastward to the rising sun
  • Matanageswara Temple - A temple dedicated to Shiva, a huge 8ft Lingam adorns the temple.
  • Parsvanath Temple - Largest among the group, with exquisite carvings in detail. The sculptures on the northern outer wall are the highlights of this temple. The image was installed in 1860.
  • Ghantai Temple - This Jain temple has a frieze which depicts the 16 dreams of Mahavira's mother, and a jain goddess on a winged Garuda.
  • Adinath Temple - Dedicated to Jain saint, adinath, the temple is lavishly embellished with sculpted figures, including yakshis.
  • Hanuman Temple
  • Brahma Temple - considered to be one of the oldest temples of Khajuraho made entirely in granite and sandstone, is dedicated to Vishnu.
  • Vamana Temple - is the dwarf form of Lord Vishnu, located in a secluded place and is known for its simple architecture.
  • Javari Temple
  • Dulhadev Temple - The last temple of Khajuraho, lies to the south of Ghantai temple. The temple enshrines a Shivalingam. The apsara and ornamented figures are the temple's most striking features.
  • Beejamandal Temple - It is a ruined temple, and is near the Chattarbhuj Temple
  • Chattarbhuj Temple Or The Jatkari Temple - Built in 1100 A.D., is well-known for its architecture, and is also the only temple to be devoid of any erotic sculpture. 3 km away from the Eastern Group. Facing West, have to take 10 steps to reach the sanctum. The massive 9 feet intricately carved Vishnu idol in Chaturbhuja (four-armed).

Light and Sound Show at Western group of temples - After visiting the temple complex is over, the sound and light show, narrated by the Bollywood icon Amitabh Bachhan, is held every evening. Entry ticket Rs. 90/- for Indians and Rs. 300/- for foreigners.

  • Khajuraho Dance Festival
  • Iron, brass and stone sculptures depicting Kama Sutra poses are a specialty of Khajuraho and are available at the handicraft stores in the town.
  • Krishna Jewellery, On the way to yogi lodge atached to Om Internet and travel agency. Here you can find beautifull silver rings, earings, pendants, necklaces, statues of Buda, Ganesha and handmade wood statues made by hand by an local artist from Khajuraho and so many nice things more, great selection!! Most welcome to see.
  • Crafts Emporium [6] govt. authorized shop,deals in gold and silver ornaments, sand stone statues, and various other local handicraft which is located at Hotel Gem Palace ,Jain Temple Road.
  • Market - A weekly bazaar is held at Rajinagar (5km from Khajuraho) on Tuesdays. The market is a good place to pick up silver and brass ware.

Eat

What

Madhya Pradesh cuisine. The area offers a good opportunity to try some local MP delicacies. The region is famous for its deserts, which are mainly sweet though there is also a spicy variety called namkeen. Popular deserts are cashew burfi, jalebi, lavang lata, kusli, khurma, moong dal ka halwa (a pudding made from green lentils), sabudana ki khichadi and shikanji.

  • The Green view Restaurant. A very colorful and nice restaurant, red and green colour. The cook is one of the best in town, he will prepare you the most tastefully meal as the waiter will serve it with a smile. Most welcome to have breakfast,lunch and/or dinner. In front of the western groups of temples.
  • Paradise Restaurant. A small, but cozy restaurant offering delicious, and inexpensive meals. It is also very clean establishment with helpful and friendly staff. Try the breakfast specialty of mango pancakes.
  • Blue Sky restaurant. A rooftop dining area offering views over the Western group of temples - excellent Indian cuisine.
  • Siddhartha Hotel Restaurant, Located across from the Western group of temples.
  • La Dolce Vita, Jain Temples Road, Town center. An Italian-theme restaurant, rooftop dining and good, hearty breakfasts.
  • La Terraza Off Main Square, the western group of temples
  • Mediterranean Restaurant - a Greek delicacy café, Rooftop café serving western food and snacks.
  • Apsara Radisson Jass - Eclectic Cuisine Tel: (+91)-(07686)-272 344
  • Raja Cafe - Off Main Square, the western group of temples -Popular restaurant, try a filling breakfast for Rs.70.
  • Madras Coffee House Off Main Square, located across from Western group of temples. A restaurant specializing in Southern Indian cuisine
  • Punjab Restaurant. located across from the Western group of temples.

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  • Hotel Jhankar Ph: (+91)-(07686) 274 063, 274 194 E-mail: mptjhankar@sancharnet.in Price Range: Rs.1190
  • Hotel Payal Ph: (+91)-(07686) 274 064, 274 076 E-mail: mptpayal@sancharnet.in Price Range: Rs.690-1190
  • Hotel Rahil Ph: (07686) 274 062 E-mail: mptrahil@sancharnet.in, Dormitory Beds Rs.90, Single Room Rs.490[7]
  • Hotel Best Western Greenwood
  • Hotel Greenwood Opposite Airport Tel: (+91)-(07686)-274 505
  • Hotel Surya Jain Temple Road Tel: (+91)-(07686) 274 145 , 274 572 fax (+91)-(07686)-274 538 E-Mail: hotel_surya2001@yahoo.co.in [8]
  • Hotel Zen Jain Temples Road, Tel: (+91)-(07686)-274 228
  • Hotel Bharat Lodge - owned by the popular Paradise Restaurant management.
  • Hotel Yogi Lodge - The cheapest and best, very clean, Good breakfast, everything made-to-order, Address: opposite to the Western group of Temples Tel: (+91)- (07686)-274 158, 244 158
    Email: yogi_sharma@yahoo.com Price Rs.80-250
  • Hotel Gem Palace Jain Temple Road Tel: (+91)-(07686)-274100 Email: gempalace1995@hotmail.com Price Rs.200-475
  • Hotel Surya Jain Temple Road Tel: (+91)-(07686) 244 145
  • Hotel Jain Jain Temples Road Tel: (+91)-(07686) 242 352
  • Hotel Sunset View Tel: (+91)-(07686) 244 077
  • Hotel Casa Di William Tel: (+91)-(07686) 244244
  • GTV Resort, Bandhavgarh (Golbro Tiger View Resort), Near Petrol Pump, Tala, BANDHAVGARH, Distt. UMARIA (M.P.) INDIA Pin Code - 484 661

Phone: +91 7627 265314 Fax +91 7662 251251 Cell: +91 9424973602 E-mail: info@gtvresort.com Web Site- [9] [10]

  • Hotel Khajuraho Ashok Ph: (+91)-(07686)-274 024
  • Kairali Ayurvedic Health Spa [11] Opposite Khajuraho Airport, Tel: (+91)-(07686)-272 219 / 274 757
  • Ken River Lodge [12] Village: Madla, Near Panna National Park Tel: (+91)-(07732) 275 200 Price: Around $165 The Ken River Lodge remains closed from May to Oct. May be a good information.
  • Holiday Inn [13],Khajuraho Tel: (+91)-(07686)-272 301, Price: Around $75
  • Hotel Taj Chandela [14], Chhatarpur, Khajuraho 471 606 Tel: (+91)-(07686) 272 355-64 Fax: (+91)-(07686) 272 365-66 Email:chandela.khajuraho@tajhotels.com, Price: Around $60
  • Hotel Jass Oberoi Pass Road, Tel: (+91)-(07686)-2723 44, 2Km from airport, Price: Around $95
  • GTV Resort, Bandhavgarh [15] Near Petrol Pump, Tala, Bandhavgarh National Park, Tel: (+91)-(7627) 265 314, (M).+91 9424 973 602, 225 Km from Khajuraho Airport Price: Around $50 The Bandhavgarh National Park remains closed from July to Sept.
  • The Grand Temple View [16],opp. Circuit House, Khajuraho - 471606. Tel: (+91) (07686)- 272 111, (+91) -(07686) 272 333 Fax:(+91)- (07686) 272 123 Email:khajuraho@thegrandhotels.net, Price: Around $160
  • Hotel Clarks Khajuraho [17] Tel: (+91)-(07686)-274 038, fax (+91)-(07686)- 274 257 1 Km from airport, Price: Around $100
  • Hotel Radisson [18], By Pass Road, Khajuraho, Tel: (+91)-(07686)-272 777 Email: reservations@radissonkhajuraho.com, Price: Around $70
  • Usha Bundela [19], Usha Bundela Temple Road Tel: (07686) 272 386/87, Fax: (+91)+(07686) 272 385 E-mail: reservations@ushalexushotels.com Price: Around $90
  • Lalit Temple View Khajuraho, (+91)-(07686) 272 111, 272 333 E-mail: khajuraho@thelalit.com, [20]. 48 rooms, spa, pool, large landscape gardens. Member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World.
  • Police: Tel: (+91)-(07686)-274 032 or 100 (from Any phone)
  • Ambulance: 102 (from Any phone)
  • Fire: 101 (from Any phone)

Contact

The dialing code for Khajuraho is 07686. When calling from overseas, dial +91 7686 XXXX XXXX. If you have a non-working phone number with only 5 digits then try using '2' as prefix.

  • BSNL-CellOne GSM 900, 1800 and 1900 MHz.(Tri-Band)
  • Airtel GSM 900, 1800 and 1900 MHz.(Tri-Band)
  • Idea GSM 900, 1800 and 1900 MHz.(Tri-Band)
  • Reliance Mobile CDMA
  • Tata Indicom CDMA

Internet

Internet is available at most of the tourist locations, with around Rs.25 per hour. The western group of temples has one of the highest density of internet cafes. Don't expect broadband speeds.

  • Om Internet and travel agency . On the way to Yogi Lodge. Market square, in front western group of temples. Broadband speed, helpful and english speaken owner and stuff

Post Office

India Post, Govt-run, office is located near the Bus Stand. Tel: (+91)-(07686)-274 022
Pincode/Post code is 471606

Cope

Try not to give any money to children or beggars who swarm at all the major tourist spots as this will only encourage them to make it their livelihood. They will try all the tricks of the trade to get money off you. Even a dollar or fifty cents given by the foreign tourists is big money here in MP.

Money Changers

Banks are better for changing foreign exchange. You won't get good rates at the airport or the hotels.

  • State Bank of India (open until 6PM on Friday and 4PM on Saturday), Opp. the Western group of temples.Tel: (+91)-(07686) - 272 373, 274 083
  • Canara Bank (also gives advances on Visa & MasterCard), Opp. the Western group of temples. (less crowded and close to SBI) Tel: (+91)-(07686) -274 071
  • Khajuraho Ashok. Tel: (+91)-(07686)-274 024

Things to carry

A torch light/flash light and a Map.

  • Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve [21]- National Park famous for high density of tigers
  • Bandhavgarh National Park — Small park famous for its high density of tigers
  • Panna National Park — more tigers
  • Nachna -40 km from Panna was a famous city of the Nagvakataka and Gupta empire.
  • Orchha
  • Raneh Falls (19 km)
  • Ken Nature Trail - A 22 km , close to Raneh falls, is a jungle track, a natural beauty and imparts a knowledge of the surroundings.
  • Ajaygarh Fort - located 80 km away from Khajuraho, is at a height of 688 meters above sea level and once the capital of the Chandelas during their decline.
  • Kalinjar - A historical fort.
  • Pandav Falls (34 km)
  • Majhgavan Diamond Mines (56 km) - India's only working diamond mines.
  • Benisagar Dam (10 km)
  • Ranguan Dam (25 km)
  • Gangau Dam and Sanctuary (34 km)
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