From Wikitravel
Lübeck [1]
is the second largest city in Schleswig-Holstein, the northernmost
state of Germany. The city
borders the Baltic Sea (Ostsee); Hamburg lies 58 km (36 mi) to the southwest.
The old city (Altstadt) survived from medieval times and
is part of the UNESCO World Heritage List.
Lübeck was historically an independent city state, and was the
capital of the Hanseatic League. It became part of
Germany after the Second World War. It is located on the Trave
River, and is the largest German port city on the Baltic Sea.
Get in
By plane
There are connections to Lübeck Airport (LBC) [2]
with Ryanair from London-Stansted, Dublin, Stockholm-Skavsta,
Milan, Pisa, Barcelona-Girona, Frankfurt-Hahn, Palma de Mallorca,
Alicante and Alghero. Wizz Air flies to Gdańsk from spring 2006 on.
Ryanair calls the airport Hamburg-Lübeck. The airport is a few
kilometers outside the city centre but is easily accessed by car
and public transport. There is a shuttle
bus A20 to Hamburg ZOB
(Zentraler Omnibus Bahnhof, central bus station) close to the HBF
(Hauptbahnhof, central train station). The public bus number 6
connects the airport to Lübeck's main railway station
(Hauptbahnhof) every 30 minutes, journey time is about 20 minutes.
There is also a local train connection from the station "Lübeck
Flughafen", the station is about 200 metres away from the terminal
building, the train runs every hour and needs not more than 10
minutes to the main railway station. The airport Hamburg (HAM) is
just one hour away, and you can find there many international
destinations.
By road
Lübeck is about 60 km northeast of Hamburg and easily accessible
by car through the Autobahn A1. With the opening of the new highway
A20 (Baltic Sea highway) to Rostock the state of Mecklenburg-Western
Pommerania is only a very short distance away.
By rail
Trains from/to Hamburg and Kiel
leave on an hourly basis. Other trains leave for Copenhagen, Schwerin and Lüneburg.
By boat
Finnlines [3] operates
ferries from Lübeck's coastal borough Travemünde to Finland and Sweden and other Baltic Sea countries, with
lines eg to Trelleborg
and Malmö. If you arrive in
Travemünde, you can take a train or bus to the city centre.
Get around
From a sight-seeing point of view, it is best to go around
Luebeck by foot. In fact you may find posters around Luebeck with a
caption like "Luebeck: The place of short distances"!
There is a local bus service hub at the Hauptbahnhof/ZOB
(central rail station) with services to all parts of the town and
nearby towns. Taxis are available nearly everywhere but have got
their price. Within the city centre walking is by far the best way
to get around.
Tourist information can be obtained in the city hall (Rathaus,
Breite Straße) or at the "Welcome Centre", opposite Holstentor.
You can take a virtual tour to view the points of interest on
CityPanoramas Luebeck
[4]
The main attraction is the medieval Altstadt (old city) located
on an island surrounded by the Trave river and channels. Listed as
an UNESCO heritage site [5], it offers an
astonishing variety of different architectural styles. The streets
of Luebeck are a delight for a connaisseur of architecture.
Bear in mind that Lübeck's Altstadt is not an open-air museum
but a living city centre, so don't expect a complete medieval
sight. You'll find many beautiful old buildings intertwined with
modern ones and a modern infrastructure. A particularly
well-preserved 13th c. part of the Altstadt is the Koberg area at
the island's northern end. And don't miss the Gänge, small
streets off the bigger roads, with small houses and a peculiar
atmosphere.
Noteworthy historical buildings include:
- The churches, housing several of the finest Northern German
artworks:
- St. Marien or Marienkirche: the biggest one, a fine brick
gothic building, located near the Rathaus [6] (city
hall) at the very centre of the Altstadt;
- the Dom: very nicely situated on the quiet southern end of the
island, contains a wooden crucifix by Bernd Notke;
- St. Petri or Petrikirche, near Marienkirche: its tower platform
(to be reached by an elevator) offers a great view over the city,
and if weather conditions allow it you can even see Travemünde (17
km to the north-east);
- St. Jakobi or Jakobikirche: north of St. Marien, at the
Koberg;
- St. Aegidien or Aegidienkirche: the smallest one, in the
eastern Altstadt;
- St. Katharinen or Katharinenkirche (without a tower): south of
St. Jakobi, contains works of Ernst Barlach;
- The two remaining city gates: Holstentor (near train
station/ZOB bus terminal) and Burgtor (northern Altstadt); they
both contain museums nowadays;
- Heiligen-Geist-Hospital near Koberg;
- Classicist Behnhaus/Drägerhaus in Königstraße, hosting an art
museum;
- The Rathaus or city hall: its architecture is a stylistic
potpourri reaching back to the 12th c. Note that it is still the
seat of the city administration and not a museum, so you're not
expected to have a look inside on your own. But there are guided
tours every hour or so where the many historic rooms and the
gallery of city leaders' portraits are explained (in German and
possibly other languages).
There are two houses dedicated to Lübeck's two literature nobel
prize laureates: The Buddenbrookhaus is dedicated to the brothers
Thomas and Heinrich Mann, who spent their youth there, and contains
many of their works. It's near Marienkirche, in Mengstraße. Then
there is the Günter-Grass-Haus (of The Tin Drum fame) in
Glockengießerstraße.
The Museumshafen (museal port) between Beckergrube and the
Musik- und Kongreßhalle building features some old-fashioned ships,
among them a rebuilt Hanseatic kraweel ("Lisa von
Lübeck")—more so in winter, because many of these ships are still
in use during summer.
The borough of Moisling has a special Jewish history. An old
Jewish cemetery is still to be found there.
- Walk around the Altstadt and enjoy the the charming atmosphere
of the former queen of the Hanseatic League.
- The Lübeck Tourism site
[7] offers excellent guidance on self guided tours as well as
guided tours.
- Take a bus/boat ride to Travemünde, a sea side resort and enjoy the
view of the Baltic Sea. A bus journey is preferred, as it would
take about 20 minutes. A boat ride however, would be much more
scenic. For further information, enquire at the "Welcome Center" at
the Holstentor.
- Visit the newly restored St.-Annen-Museum and the
Buddenbrookhaus for some cultural experience.
- Take a seat on one of the tourist boats and ship around the
city (boats go off every hour or so on the Holstentor side of the
Altstadt island). For example you get a beautiful view of the
Salzspeicher (Hanseatic salt warehouses; fans of classic horror
movies might be interested by the fact that one of these
Salzspeicher was the house of Count Nosferatu both in the Murnau
film and the Werner Herzog remake with Klaus Kinski). If you've got
more time to spent ship on along the Wakenitz river which links the
Trave river with the Ratzeburg lake. Parts of the river offer an
astonishing flora.
- Go to the Cafe Niederegger [8] (Breite Straße) and fill
your stomach with marzipan and cakes
- Theater Lübeck: Beckergrube;
- Puppet theatre;
- several smaller theatres.
- Stadthalle (southern Altstadt): mainstream;
- Filmhaus (Königstraße, vis-à-vis Katharinenkirche): the special
and off-beat film cinema;
- Kommunales Kino (Mengstraße): niche films.
Luebeck.de > Aktuelles > Kinoprogramm [9] keeps an updated programme
for all cinemas in town.
Note that almost all films are dubbed in Germany, including
Hollywood productions. Kommunales Kino is an exception, showing
many subtitled films.
If you are visiting Lübeck during autumn, you might want to
check out the Nordische Filmtage (Nordic film days), a festival
where films from Northern Europe (especially Scandinavia) are shown
in all cinemas, most of them in the original languages with German
or sometimes English subtitles. Get a festival programme in one of
the cinemas.
Clubs and discotheques
Normally they don't cater to a special scene but have themes and
playlists changing on a daily basis. Have a look at the respective
web pages or at Piste Lübeck [10]
for a programme. If you are in Lübeck, you can get a free printed
copy of Piste magazine in newspaper shops or some restaurants.
In Germany the normal age to be admitted into a club/disco is 18
years or older.
- A1 Musikpark [11], Lohmühle;
- Body & Soul [12]: on a boat in the Trave
river along Kanalstraße (has 1 Tablesoccer-Table) - The
Body&Soul hast closed, but opens from time to time for special
events!;
- Hüx [13]: Hüxstraße;
- Parkhaus [14]: Hüxstraße (vis-à-vis Hüx;
has 2 Tablesoccer-Tables);
- Abaco [15], not in Lübeck but in
the suburban Stockelsdorf
There are two more or less regular goth parties in Lübeck:
Darkness Party
[16] in Treibsand
[17] and Schwarze Zone [18] in the Burgtor (see
above). Since 2005, the Schwarze Zone Party is over, while
DarknessParty still lives (for over 12 years now).
- July: Travemünder Woche sailing festival in Travemünde;
- August: Duckstein Festival;
- November/December: Artificers' market on Koberg;
- July to September: Sand World sand sculpture exposition Travemünde;
- December/January: Ice World ice sculpture exposition
(Willy-Brandt-Allee);
- December: Weihnachtsmarkt (Christmas fair) at central market
place, mediaeval market at St. Marien.
- Lübecker Marzipan is the most famous export from the City. It
is available in several varieties. The excellent Cafe Niederegger
[19] has outlets throughout
the city. It's main store on the Alter Markt is a tourist
attraction in its own right. It includes a museum dedicated to the
Manufacture of Marzipan as well as many Marzipan sculptures.
- Walk down the Hüxstrasse
and the "Fleischhauerstrase", Luebeck's famous shopping streets and
enjoy shopping. You may find artists, painting various
interpretations of the Holstentor, which make an excellent
souvenir.
- Rotspon wine, available in nearly every shop.
- Souvenirs and Lübeck-related literature can be purchased eg at
the Rathaus bookshop (between market place and Marienkirche).
Eat
There are several restaurants within the city centre which will
satisfy most tastes. At the top is Michelin starred Wullenwever [20]. Other good options
include Markgraf [21] and Schabbelhaus [22] while the most popular
spot for tourists is the Schiffergesellschaft [23]. If you're in
for locally brewed beer, check out the slightly Bavarian-themed
Brauberger in Alfstraße. Lübeck is well-known for its high density
of cafés and "Kneipen" (~pubs), so peep into some of the smaller
streets as well and look if you find something that fits your
taste. Shortys Cantina [24] has some special TexMex
Food you have to try.
Drink
There are many traditional bars in Lübeck, but if you're after a
bit of international "big city" vibe, Cole Street - Bar Cafe
Gallery - on Beckergrube 18, right next to the theatre, is a great
find. Cool design, music and regularly changing contemporary art
exhibitions. Check colestreets site [25] for their latest info.
You might also want to check out NUI the great Thai & Japanese
Restaurant at the bottom of Beckergrube.
- RuckSack Hotel,
[26]. Friendly and helpful owner.
Clean and well kept rooms at a good price. Opposite is Aldi food
store and next to the hostel/hotel is a restaurant. Located on
north side of old town next to river. Can get off bus 6 (airport
bus) at Sandstrasse or Kongnistrasse and walk to hostel.
edit
- Ibis Hotel Lübeck, Fackenburger Allee 54 23554
Lübeck,
[27]. Budget hotel located quite
close to the Main railway station. edit
Lübeck offers a large variety of hotels. Booking in advance is
always advisable, especially during the summer. There are two youth
hostels, one is a little bit east of the Altstadt (Am
Gertrudenkirchhof 4; Tel: 0451/33433; Fax: 0451/34540), the other
within the Altstadt (Mengstr. 33, 23552 Lübeck; Tel: 0451/7020399;
Fax: 0451/77012). At the upmarket end are the Radisson SAS and
Mövenpick hotel with superb views of the Altstadt.
Get out
There are several options to spend your time around Lübeck.
- Sea-side towns for sun & beaches are:
-
- Travemünde
Still part of Lübeck and only a 15-20 minute drive away
- Timmendorfer Strand /Niendorf about 20-30 minutes and a more
stylish resort and very popular with people from Hamburg
Somewhat north of Travemünde is a cliff (Brodtener Ufer) that
has a hiking way from Travemünde to Niendorf (1-1,5 hrs walk) with
good views on the Baltic coastline. Niendorf/Ostsee is somewhat
more cosy and family oriented with its fishery port and a new
renovated public swimming pool and a well-known bird zoo (Vogelpark
Niendorf, situated in a small nature resort).
The Baltic coast resorts in Mecklenburg Pommerania are about 1-2
hrs drive on the Autobahn A20 away and might be worth a day
trip
For nature lovers a trip to the lakes south of Lübeck may be of
interest as there are great opportunities for bird-watching (eg the
Ratzeburger See and the Schaalsee).Ratzeburg (with its
Ernst-Barlach and A.-Paul-Weber museums) and Mölln are also worth a
visit, especially as they are easily accessible by train. Near
Ratzeburg is also one of the rare places to see the nearly extinct
European bison—not a very spectacular facility, just some buffaloes
on a pasture, but if you're in the area and have never seen one you
might want to look out for the "Wisentgehege".
If you're travelling on northwards to Kiel, consider a (train) stop in one of the three
small towns of Eutin, Plön,
and Preetz. Among other sites, each of them boasts a "Schloß" or
former aristocratic mansion. The towns are situated in a lake
district which is popular for rambling and canoeing in summer (you
can eg rent a canoe in Plön
and go to Preetz by Schwentine River and through various lakes,
then the canoe-centre people will get you and your canoe back to Plön by car).
And don't forget that it's just a mere 50 minutes by train to
Hamburg (they go each hour).
During the summer the Schleswig-Holstein music festival [28] is one of the largest events
in northern Germany. An abundance of concerts with world-famous
artists and orchestras attracts many people every year.
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