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Mahabalipuram
View of Shore Temple, Mahabalipuram / Mamallapuram
Mahabalipuram Location of Mahabalipuram in Tamil Nadu and India
Coordinates	12°38′N 80°10′E / 12.63°N 80.17°E / 12.63; 80.17
Country	India
State	Tamil Nadu
District(s)	Kancheepuram
Population	12049 (2001)
Time zone	IST (UTC+05:30)
Area • Elevation	• 12 m (39 ft)
Codes • Pincode • 603104 • Telephone • +91-44 • Vehicle • TN-21

Mahabalipuram (Tamil: மகாபலிபுரம்) also known as Mamallapuram (Tamil: மாமல்லபுரம்) is a town in Kancheepuram district in the Indian state of Tamil Nadu. It has an average elevation of 12 metres (39 feet).

Mahabalipuram was a 7^th century port city of the South Indian dynasty of the Pallavas around 60 km south from the city of Chennai in Tamil Nadu. It is believed to have been named after the Pallava king Mamalla. It has various historic monuments built largely between the 7^th and the 9^th century, and has been classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

History

Rock Carvings

The temples of Mamallapuram, built largely during the reigns of Narasimhavarman and his successor Rajasimhavarman, showcase the movement from rock-cut architecture to structural building. The mandapa or pavilions and the rathas or shrines shaped as temple chariots are hewn from the granite rock face, while the famed Shore Temple, erected half a century later, is built from dressed what makes Mamallapuram so culturally resonant are the influences it absorbs and disseminates. The Shore Temple includes many bas reliefs including one 100 ft. long and 45 ft. high carved out of granite. ^[1]

All but one of the rathas from the first phase of Pallava architecture are modelled on the Budhist viharas or monasteries and chaitya halls with several cells arranged around a courtyard. Art historian Percy Brown, in fact, traces the possible roots of the Pallava Mandapa to the similar rock-cut caves of Ajanta Caves and Ellora Caves. Referring to Narasimhavarman's victory in AD 642 over the Chalukyan king Pulakesin II, Brown says the Pallava king may have brought the sculptors and artisans back to Kanchi and Mamallapuram as 'spoils of war'.^[2]

The modern city of Mahabalipuram was established by the British in 1827.^[3]

Landmarks

A rock sculpture at Mamallapuram

The monuments are mostly rock-cut and monolithic, and constitute the early stages of Dravidian architecture wherein Buddhist elements of design are prominently visible. They are constituted by cave temples, monolithic rathas (chariots), sculpted reliefs and structural temples. The pillars are of the Dravidian order. The sculptures are excellent examples of Pallava art.

It is believed by some that this area served as a school for young sculptors. The different sculptures, some half finished, may have been examples of different styles of architecture, probably demonstrated by instructors and practiced on by young students. This can be seen in the Pancha Rathas where each Ratha is sculpted in a different style. These five Rathas were all carved out of a single piece of granite in situ. ^[4] While excavating Khajuraho Alex Evans a stone mason and sculptor recreated a stone sculpture made out of sandsstone, which is softer than granite, under 4 feet that took about 60 days to carve. the carving at Mahabalipuram must have required hundreds of highly skilled sculptors. ^[5]

Some important structures include:

• Thirukadalmallai, the temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu. It was also built by Pallava King in order to safeguard the sculptures from the ocean. It is told that after building this temple, the remaining architecture was preserved and was not corroded by sea.
• Descent of the Ganges - a giant open-air bas relief
• Arjuna's Penance - relief sculpture on a massive scale extolling an episode from the Hindu epic, The Mahabharata.
• Varaha Cave Temple - a small rock-cut temple dating back to the 7^th century.
• The Shore Temple - a structural temple along the Bay of Bengal with the entrance from the western side away from the sea. Recent excavations have revealed new structures here. The temple was reconstructed stone by stone from the sea after being washed away in a cyclone.
• Pancha Rathas (Five Chariots) - five monolithic pyramidal structures named after the Pandavas (Arjuna, Bhima, Yudhishtra, Nakula and Sahadeva) and Draupadi. An interesting aspect of the rathas is that, despite their sizes they are not assembled — each of these is carved from one single large piece of stone.

Underwater city

Seashore at Mamallapuram with the Shore Temple in the background

According to descriptions by early travel writers from Britain, the area near Mahabalipuram had seven pagodas by the sea. Accounts of Mahabalipuram were first written down by British traveller John Goldingham who was told of the "Seven Pagodas" when he visited in 1798.

An ancient port city and parts of a temple built in the 7^th century may have been uncovered by the tsunami that resulted from the 2004 Indian Ocean earthquake. As the waves gradually receded, the force of the water removed sand deposits that had covered various rocky structures and revealed carvings of animals, which included an elaborately carved head of an elephant and a horse in flight. A small square-shaped niche with a carved statue of a deity could be seen above the head of the elephant. In another structure, there was a sculpture of a reclining lion. The use of these animal sculptures as decorations is consistent with other decorated walls and temples from the Pallava period in the 7^th and 8^th centuries.

The Archaeological Survey of India sent divers to begin underwater excavations of the area on 17 February 2005.

Demography

As of 2001 India census,^[6] Mahabalipuram had a population of 12,049. Males constitute 52% of the population and females 48%. Mahabalipuram has an average literacy rate of 74%, higher than the national average of 59.5%: male literacy is 82%, and female literacy is 66%. In Mahabalipuram, 12% of the population is under 6 years of age.

Mahabalipuram is known for its many orphanages which often invite tourists to visit them (and donate).

Gallery

Shore Temple	A view of the 'Five Rathas' at Mahabalipuram	Varaha cave temple	Arjuna's penance
Bas-relief carving at the Mahishasuramarthini cave	Draupadi and Arjuna rathas	Sculpture of Nandi at Pancha Rathas site	Elephant scuplture made out of single rock
Krishna's butter ball - a balancing rock	Lighthouse	Rock formations near Mamallapuram	Seashore at Mamallapuram

Mahabali

Mahabali was an asura king ruled the Kerala region, in vedic period. Story goes that during the reign of mighty asura (demon) king, Mahabali, Kerala witnessed its golden era. Every body in the state was happy and prosperous and king was highly regarded by his subjects. Apart from all his virtues, Mahabali had one shortcoming. He was egoistic. This weakness in Mahabali's character was utilized by Gods to bring an end to his reign as they felt challenged by Mahabali's growing popularity. However, for all the good deed done by Mahabali, God granted him a boon that he could annually visit his people with whom he was so attached.

It is this visit of Mahabali that is celebrated as Onam every year. People make all efforts to celebrate the festival in a grand way and impress upon their dear King that they are happy and wish him well.

Bus routes

Apart from private bus operators, TNSTC and MTC Chennai operate buses to and from Mahabalipuram

See also

• Seven Pagodas of Mahabalipuram
• List Of Colossal Sculpture In Situ

References

External links

• Photographs [1]
• Mahabalipuram
• Mahabalipuram tours
• Mahabalipuram travel guide from Wikitravel
• Mahabalipuram in UNESCO List
• National Institute of Oceanography: Mahabalipuram and Poompuhar
• ASI site on Mahabalipuram
• Inscriptions of India -- Complete listing of historical inscriptions from Indian temples and monuments
• `I show you Mahabalipuram'
• Pillars with inscriptions of Pallava, Chola kings found
• The Shore Temple stands its ground T.S. Subramanian in The Hindu, 30 December 2004
• Newly-discovered Mahabalipuramtemple fascinates archaeologists T.S. Subramanian in The Hindu, 10 April 2005
• BBC News: India finds more 'tsunami gifts'
• Mahabalipuram Temple Architecture
• Tsunami's might opens way for science (The Globe and Mail; 18 February, 2005)
• Photographs of Mahabalipuram and other sites in Tamil Nadu
• Mahabalipuram Photo Viewer
• First Amateur-Ham Radio Operation from Mahabalipuram Lighthouse on occasion of International Lighthouse & Lightship Week
• Living Rocks, Frontline, Volume 24 - Issue 25 :: Dec. 22, 2007-Jan. 04, 200
• Mahabalipuram tour packages information

World Heritage Sites in India North Agra Fort · Buddhist Monuments at Sanchi · Fatehpur Sikri · Humayun's Tomb · Keoladeo National Park · Khajuraho Group of Monuments · Mountain Railways of India (Kalka-Shimla Railway)1 · Nanda Devi and Valley of Flowers National Parks · Qutub Minar and its Monuments · The Red Fort complex · Rock Shelters of Bhimbetka · Taj Mahal Northeast Kaziranga National Park · Manas Wildlife Sanctuary East Mahabodhi Temple Complex at Bodh Gaya · Mountain railways of India (Darjeeling Himalayan Railway)1 · Sun Temple at Konark · Sundarbans National Park South Great Living Chola Temples at Thanjavur, Gangaikonda Cholapuram and Darasuram · Group of Monuments at Hampi · Group of Monuments at Mahabalipuram · Group of Monuments at Pattadakal · Mountain railways of India (Nilgiri Mountain Railway)1 West Ajanta Caves · Champaner-Pavagadh Archaeological Park · Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus · Churches and convents of Goa · Elephanta Caves · Ellora Caves 1 Shared with other region/s

From Wikitravel

Detail of the Arjuna's Penance bas-relief in Mamallapuram

Mamallapuram (மாமல்லபுரம்), also known as Mahabalipuram, is a tourist town 60 km south of Chennai famous for its stone carvings.

Understand

Mamallapuram dates back to the Tamil Pallava dynasty in the 7th-9th century. The structures here, mostly carved straight out of granite, are among the oldest existing examples of Dravidian (South Indian) architecture.

Today's Mamallapuram is purely a tourist town and one of the major attractions around Chennai. The East Coast Road has made it easily accessible - just about an hour from the city. Unfortunately, the entire strip is now a mess of restaurants, resorts, amusement parks, people, discarded plastic and chaotic traffic. At one time you could see the Bay of Bengal almost all the way to M'puram, but, there is so much development that the ocean is glimpsed only as you get close to M'puram.

Mamallapuram itself was getting run down over the last decade with very patchy efforts at keeping the monuments preserved. This has changed in the last few years with the Shore Temple being included in the UNESCO heritage project. The surroundings have been made much nicer, but, there has been a lot of wind and water erosion on the temple carvings with many of them having undergone loss of detail over the years. Sort of too little, too late, but still, better than nothing. Be prepared to fight you way through clutches of gypsies, beggars, guides, snakes charmers and so on, all of which is an essential part of the experience and not to be frowned upon. The whole thing would be bland without them. A nuisance, but harmless.

Get in

Buses arrive in the centre of the town from either Koyembedu or Tiruvanmiyur (in Chennai) and Kanchipuram.Take any bus that has ECR written on the front, but be warned some buses will drop you outside town, and don't go into the town proper. You can also catch the bus from Pondicherry.

A taxi from Chennai will cost Rs. 600-800 one-way (USD 15 to 20) though the rates are likely to be higher based on the season, cab operator. Visitors outside Chennai, even Indian nationals and most definitely from Overseas are likely to be asked for higher rates. To or from the airport will cost Rs.800-1200 and will take one hour off peak and 1 1/2 hours peak time. Please negotiate the cab fares at the beginning of the journey and remain firm if the operator asks for more.

The drive from Chennai on the East Coast Road is, by Indian standards, a wonderful experience: it is one of the few toll roads in India and maintained well. That said, it's still only one lane per direction with no divider, so overtaking tends to be hair-raising and high-speed head-on collisions are all too common. The road runs parallel to the coast of Bay of Bengal making it a scenic driveway, although you will not see the sea until the last few miles. The 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami wreaked havoc around here, so you will see shanty-towns built for affected fishermen and much of the greenery has been swept away.)

Get around

It's easy to get around the town on foot, though bike rental is also available. It is relatively a small city and all point of interest are close to each other. Paid parking areas are available near the Shore Temple and the Five Rathas.

See

A combined entrance tikcet to the Shore Temple and the Five Rathas costs Rs.250 for foreigners and Rs.10 for Indian citizens. Local guides, who speak multiple languages, are available for around Rs 200 for a tour of all main attractions.

Approaching the Shore Temple

• Shore Temple. The oldest structure in the area, build c. 700 AD, this temple has been here for more than 1400 years. However, unlike Mamallapuram's other monuments, the Shore Temple is a building (not carved from rock) and the bulk of the current structure is a reconstruction after it was struck by a cyclone. It's not particularly large, and the carvings have been badly eroded by the wind and the sea, but this adds to the sense of antiquity. The area around the temple is now a landscaped park, with guards keeping the hordes of souvenir hawkers at bay. A Shiva lingam is enshrined in the central building and the site can get very crowded on weekends.

Three of the Five Rathas, with an elephant standing guard

• Five Rathas (Pancha Pandava Rathas). This site contains five rathas, literally chariots, dating from the 7th century. The sculptures are complemented by some enormous stone animals, including a large elephant.

• Thirukadalmallai, the temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu. It was also built by Pallava King in order to safeguard the sculptures from the ocean. It is told that after building this temple, the remaining architecture was preserved and was not corroded by sea.

• Sculpture Museum, East Raja Street has hundreds of sculptures in stone, wood etc.It is well worth a visit. Rs. 2 entrance fee.

The following structures are all carved straight out of rock in the central hillside area, so you can travel between them on foot. The scenery within the hills is also quite unusual, with smooth rock rising out of the forest and carved stairways leading between the mandapas (pavilions), caves and carvings.

Walking through the forest

Krishna's Butterball

• Arjuna's Penance, also known as the Descent of the Ganges. A giant bas-relief filled with detailed carvings, including a family of elephants and monkeys. Archaeologists still squabble over what, exactly, the bas relief depicts; the central figure may actually depict Bhagiratha, not Arjuna.

• Krishna's Butterball is a giant natural rock perched on a hillside, seemingly in defiance of all laws of physics. It provides welcome shade if you dare to sit underneath it, and local kids have discovered that the slippery nearby hillside also makes a great natural slide.

• Mahishamardini Cave. The central carving is of Shiva and Parvati and Murugan

• Varaha Cave has four impressive carvings of Vishnu, Gakalakshmi, Trivikama and Durga.

• Old and new light houses provide views across the area to the sea. There are several unfinished temples nearby, and the December 2004 tsunami exposed more previously submerged temples.

• Bike trips around Tamil Nadu's countryside can be organized by travel agencies in the town.
• Chill on the sandy beach
• Surf, a restaurant at the entrance of the town, provides, following facilities:
  • Boat rides to in the Bay of bengal with life guards.
  • Fishing trips to the sea.
  • Turtle walk at the sea shore.
  • Trekking to a near by hill.
  • The price for the above activities are slightly more than what it should have been. For example, boat ride with life guards for 45 minutes is Rs. 280/- per head.
• Several Yoga camps are organised on a daily basis.
• Solaman at Sakthi Yoga offers 1-1/2 hour drop-in classes for Rs 150 per person. Classes are offered three times a day: 7:00, 9:00 and 16:00.
• Mamallapuram is known for its orphanages which often invite tourists to visit them (and donate), eg. Hosanna Childrens' Home [1]. Spending some time with the children and teaching them something or drawing together might help much more than spending money without controling where it goes.

• Stone carving Local sculptures in the main street leading to the sea (after the Tina Shell View Lodge) teach stone carving. You will learn how to sculpt a simple locket, and the longer you'll stay, the more complicated things you'll be able to do. For a simple locket at least 5 hours are needed. For 100 Rs. a day you can learn/work as long as you like everyday (the result is yours of course).

• Stone sculptures made by local artists. You can see them on their work (and also learn it yourself, see #Learn). You can save a lot of money if you buy sculptures in small side roads and not in the main road.

Eat

There are lots of food stands in the centre serving large portions for next-to-nothing prices. Clustered around Othavadai Street and Othavadai Cross are restaurants catering primarily to tourists, which serve generally undistinguished Western food. Your best bet is often fresh grilled fish (which you can usually select yourself) served with french fries or salad.

• Garden View Restaurant-- At Greenwoods Beach Resort, Othavadai Cross Street. Excellent food, each order freshly prepared, views of the street or the garden courtyard. Breakfast (RS25 - 45), Lunch and Dinner (RS65--145).
• Mamalla Bhavan - Shore Temple Road (near Raja Street). Cheap, very good, popular veg thali (unlimited vegetables and curries, fixed rice and roti/bread) joint. Rs 27 to Rs 35 (lunch thali as of 2008-06-23).
• Moonrakers Restaurant, Othavadai St, [2]. Multi-story restaurant with eclectic decoration, listed in all the guidebooks and hence quite popular with foreign tourists. The menu runs the gamut of Indian and Western favorites, veg and non-veg, although staff will try to steer you towards the expensive seafood items. Most dishes under Rs. 50, but seafood will cost you more.
• Nautilus - #4, Othavadai Cross Street. Popular with foreign tourists, this French-owned cafe features credible Western food, a decent cup of coffee, a competent and friendly waitstaff, and a library stocked with Tintin and Asterix volumes. Rs 50-200.
• The Golden Palett - At Hotel Mamalla Heritage, 104, East Raja Street, 044 - 27442060, 27442260, 27442360, serves excellent Indian vegetarian food and has a pleasant non-veg restaurant on the rooftop.
• Surf - Surf provides a wide variety of food for all sea-food lovers. This restaurant is at the entrance of the town. If you are not the greatest fan of sea-food, then you will find this restaurant over priced. If you are really hungry, then Surf is not a good place to eat. The service is really late and you will receive your order just before you are about to starve down.
• Gecko Cafe, Othavadai Cross, [3]. Family-run, fast, friendly and clean. Features Indian veg and non veg food as well as freshest seafood, offers an nice lake view for bird watching and has a relaxed atmosphere, very helpful waiter and cook.
• The New Cafe, No 6, Ottavadai Cross Street. Barbeque, curry, pasta and breakfast.  edit
• Bob Marley Restaurant & Guesthouse, 182 Fisherman's Colony (Mamallapuram), ☎ 09840-098260, [4]. Recommended by The Lonely Planet (Seafood) restaurant. Very nice place to stay and eat. Freshly prepared food. Nice saebreeze and saeview. Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner.Good prices. Also rooms available.  edit

• Mamallapuram is famous for its coconuts, which are available from hawkers around all major sites.
• Many restaurants serve beer though it may not be on the menu.

• Greenwoods Resort - Othavadai Cross, +91 44 27443118, [5][6]. Pleasant family-owned hotel with a charming restaurant serving freshly cooked meals on a terrace overlooking the street and a lovely garden courtyard. Rs 700-1500 for AC/Non-AC rooms, some with terrace balcony. Full breakfast included.
• GRT Temple Bay, [7] - a 5 star beach resort.
• Ideal Beach Resort, Comfortable rooms and cottages in a tropical garden setting leading to palm trees and hammocks on the beach. Popular with tours. [8]
• Ishwarya Guest house, +91 9789881558. #26,Thirukula street. 27 cozy rooms with cool sea breeze, attached bath and 24 hrs room service. approx Rs. 450 ($10).
• Mamalla Beach Resort, [9]. - 35 sea view rooms with balconies and attached bath. Options of air conditioned standard and deluxe rooms, swimming pool, multi-cuisine restaurant with 24 hour room service.
• Sea Breeze - Othavadai Cross (at the end of the street), +91 4114 243035., [10], Beach resort with a swimming pool. Ayurvedic massage is available on-site. Rs 1000-2000.
• Hotel Mamallaa Heritage, 104 East Raja Street, Phone 00-91-44-27442060/27442260/27442360 (eMail: mamalla@vsnl.com). An authentic Southern Indian hotel. It is famous for its buffet meals and smiling hospitality. Room rates start from Rs. 1300/- to Rs. 1800/- per day. The hotel provides excellent service and the guest are made to feel right at home. The hotel provides a mini-bar in each room and a swimming pool on the first floor.

• Lutz Guesthouse, [11]. Nice guesthouse on the beachside.
• Hotel Baywatch. Nice cheap room on the beach side, next to Luna Magica restaurant.
• Hotel Ramakrishna, #8 Othavadai Street Mamallapuram, ☎ 27442331, [12]. A large place on three storeys around a central parking courtyard, filled with pot plants. The simple rooms all have bathrooms and are clean. hotelramakrishna@gmail.com Rs.350.  edit
• Lakshmi Hotel, Othavadai Cross (Parallel to main road). Decent budget place, often has a good traveler vibe. Restaurant on top. Internet cafe. Rooms with Asian and Western stle toilets. 200-350R.  edit
• Hotel Pallava Dynasty, 23 East Raja st, ☎ 9443169036. Comfortable rooms and cottages in a tropical garden setting leading a lovely garden courtyard  edit
• Bob Marley Guesthouse & Restaurant, 182 Fisherman's Colony,, ☎ 09840-098260, [13]. Situated on the beach, just 2 minutes walk from the center of the village. 4-5 rooms, all with seaview and fan. One with airco. Also very good restaurant for breakfast, lunch and dinner. All food is freshly prepared after ordering.  edit
• Siva Guesthouse,+91 44-27443534., #2, Othavadai Cross Street, [14]
• Sri Harul Guesthouse (lings6@rediffmail.com), No:181 Bajanai Koil Street (Fisherman's Colony), ☎ 0091-9384620173. Direct on the beach, 2 minutes walk from the center. 6 rooms on seaside and 2 rooms available. On the rooftop is Cafe Good Luck. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are freshly prepare after ordering. Very nice view.  edit

Stay safe

India's first nuclear reactor and much of its nuclear research program is just down the beach in Kalpakkam. Don't wander into restricted areas.

• Crocodile bank - at Vadanemmeli, 15 km on the road back to Chennai. You can feed the reptiles for a small fee.
• Thirukalukundram
• Pondicherry - Mamallapuram is a good stopover if you are making a trip from Chennai to Pondicherry by road.
• The Eagle Temple - a short bus ride from Mamallupuram brings you to the spectacular Eagle Temple. Take it easy on the climb up, as it's a long way, but the views are worth it.