From Wikitravel
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Location |
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Flag |
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Quick Facts |
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Capital |
Rabat |
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Government |
Constitutional monarchy |
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Currency |
Moroccan dirham (MAD) |
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Area |
total: 446,550 km2
land: 446,300 km2
water: 250 km2 |
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Population |
32,725,847 (July 2006 est.) |
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Language |
Arabic (official), Berber
dialects, Spanish and French are often the languages of
business and government |
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Religion |
Muslim 98.5%, Christian 1.3%, Jewish 0.2% |
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Electricity |
127-220V/50Hz (European plug) |
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Calling Code
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+212 |
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Internet TLD |
.ma |
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Time
Zone |
UTC |
Morocco (المغرب
al-Maghreb)
[1] is a
North African country
that has a coastline on both the North Atlantic Ocean and the
Mediterranean Sea. It has borders with
Mauritania to the south,
Algeria to the east and the
Spanish North African territories of
Ceuta and
Melilla on the Mediterranean coast in the
north. It is just across the Strait of Gibraltar from
Gibraltar.
Understand
Morocco's long struggle for independence from France ended in
1956. The internationalized city of Tangier was turned over to the
new country that same year. Morocco virtually annexed
Western Sahara
during the late 1970s, and even though the status of the territory
remains unresolved, the government is trying to conceal this, e.g.
on all maps in Morocco,
Western Sahara is drawn as an integrated
part of the country.
Gradual political reforms in the 1990s resulted in the
establishment of a bicameral legislature in 1997, although the king
still possesses the actual political power. The press is relatively
free, although clampdowns have occurred following criticism of the
authorities or articles concerning the
Western Sahara situation.
Electricity and voltage
The voltage in Morocco is generally 220 V, and
outlets will fit the two-pin plug known as the
Europlug. It's probably the most commonly used
international plug, found throughout continental Europe and parts
of the Middle East, as well as much of Africa, South America,
Central Asia and the former Soviet republics. Europlugs are
included in most international plug adapter
kits.
Watch out for American and Canadian appliances, which are made
to use with 110 V. That means that even with an adapter, plugging
them into a 220 V socket may damage them. If your appliance is
"dual-voltage", it should be fine (it's designed for both 110 and
220 V). If not, you'll need a power converter as
well as an adapter.
Holidays
The biggest event on the Moroccan calendar is the month of
Ramadan, during which Muslims fast during the
daytime and feast at night. Most restaurants are closed for lunch
(with the exception of those catering specifically to tourists) and
things generally slow down. Traveling during this time is entirely
possible, and the restrictions don't apply to non-Muslims, but it's
respectful to refrain from eating, drinking or smoking in public
during the fast. At the end of the month is the holiday of
Eid al-Fitr, when practically everything closes
for as long as a week and transport is packed as everybody heads
back home. Alcohol consumption is not prohibited for tourists
during Ramadan, there a few restaurants and bars serving alcohol.
Also, alcohol can be purchased in a supermarket if a tourist shows
their passport to the staff as Moroccans are not allowed to buy or
consume alcohol during the holy month.
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North Atlantic
Coast
the northern half of Morocco's coast is home to the capital and
Casablanca, interspersed with more laid back beach towns |
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South Atlantic
Coast
the southern coast is more laid back, home to gorgeous beach towns
like Essaouira and Agadir |
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High
Atlas
covering the High Atlas mountains and the surrounding areas
including Marrakech |
|
Middle
Atlas
covering the Middle Atlas mountains and the surrounding areas
including Fez and Meknes |
|
Saharan Morocco
the vast desert region of Morocco runs along the border with
Algeria; camel safaris and sand dunes are the name of the game
here |
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Anti
Atlas
the southern portion, covering Tarouddant down to the Western
Sahara border |
- For the sake of travel, Western Sahara is treated as its own
entity
A street scene in Marrakech - entrance to a mosque, arrow shows
directions showing separate entrances for men and for women
- Rabat – The capital of
Morocco; very relaxed and hassle-free, highlights include a
12th-century tower and minaret.
- Casablanca – This
modern city by the sea is a starting point for visitors flying into
the country. If you have the time, both the historical medina and
the contemporary mosque (the second largest in the world) are well
worth an afternoon
- Fez – Fez is the former capital
of Morocco and one of the oldest and largest medieval cities in the
world.
- Marrakech
(Marrakesh)– Marrakech is a perfect combination of old and new
Morocco. Plan to spend at least a few days wandering the huge maze
of souks and ruins in the medina. The great plaza of Djeema El Fna
at dusk is not to be missed.
- Meknes – A modern, laid
back city that offers a welcome break from the tourist crush of
neighbouring Fez.
- Ouarzazate –
Considered the Capital of the South, Ouarzazate is a great example
of preservation and tourism that hasn't destroyed the feel of a
fantastic and ancient city.
- Tangier –Tangier is the
starting point for most visitors arriving by ferry from Spain. An
enigmatic charm which has historically attracted numerous artists
(Matisse), musicians (Hendrix), politicians (Churchill), writers
(Burroughs) and others (Malcolm Forbes).
- Tetouan – Nice beaches
and is the gateway to the Rif Mountains.
- Agadir – Agadir is
best-known for its beaches. The town is a nice example of modern
Morocco, with less emphasis on history and culture. Take the local
bus for a few cents and go 2 or 3 villages North, where there are
additional beaches
- Amizmiz – With one of
the largest Berber souks in the High Atlas Mountains every Tuesday, Amizmiz
is a popular destination for travelers looking for a day trip that
is easily accessible (about an hour) from Marrakech
- Chefchaouen – A
mountain town just inland from Tangier full of white-washed winding
alleys, blue doors, and olive trees, Chefchaouen is clean as a
postcard and a welcome escape from Tangier, evoking the feeling of
a Greek island
- Essaouira – An
ancient sea-side town newly rediscovered by tourists. From mid-June
to August the beaches are packed but any other time and you'll be
the only person there. Good music and great people. Nearest Coast
from Marrakech
- Merzouga and M'Hamid – From either of
these two settlements at the edge of the Sahara, ride a camel or
4x4 into the desert for a night (or a week) among the dunes and
under the stars
- Volubilis – 30 kilometers North of Meknes, biggest Roman ruins in Morocco, next to
the holy town Moulay Idriss
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Ramadan dates
- 2010 (1431): Aug 11 - Sep 9
- 2011 (1432): Aug 1 - Aug 29
- 2012 (1433): Jul 20 - Aug 18
The festival of Eid ul-Fitr is held after the end of Ramadan and
may last several days. Exact dates depend on astronomical
observations and may vary from country to country.
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All visitors to Morocco require a valid passport but visitors
from the following countries do not need to obtain visas before
arrival: Schengen member states,
Argentina,
Australia,
Bahrain,
Brazil,
Canada,
Chile,
Côte d'Ivoire,
Croatia,
Republic of Congo,
Guinea,
Hong Kong SAR,
Indonesia,
Japan,
Kuwait,
Libya,
Mali,
Mexico,
New Zealand,
Niger,
Oman,
Peru,
Philippines,
Qatar,
Russia,
Saudi Arabia,
Senegal,
Singapore,
South Korea,
Tunisia,
Turkey,
United Arab Emirates,
United Kingdom,
United States,
Venezuela
For tourists from countries that need a visa to enter Morocco,
the Moroccan Embassy is usually the first port of call. They charge
the equivalent of £17 for a single entry and £26 for double or
multiple entries. (Double or Multiple entries will be issued at
embassy discretion). Visas are usually valid for 3 months and take
around 5-6 working days to process. Visa requirements are completed
application forms, four passport-size photos taken within the
previous six months, Valid passport with at least one blank page,
and with a photocopy of the relevant data pages; Fee, payable by
postal order only, a photocopy of all flight bookings and a
photocopy of hotel reservation.
Tourists can stay for up to 90 days and visa extensions can be a
frustrating and time-consuming process. (You may find it easier to
duck into the Spanish-controlled
Ceuta or
Melilla and then re-enter Morocco for a new
stamp). Anti-cholera
vaccination certificates may
be required of visitors coming from areas where this disease is
prevalent and pets need a health certificate less than ten days
old, and an anti-rabies certificate less than six months old.
By plane
Ryanair [3]
— Has signed an agreement with the Moroccan government and flies to
Morocco from
Bergamo,
Girona,
Reus,
Bremen,
Madrid, Frankfurt-Hahn,
London. Flying to
Fez 3 times per week. Flights to Marrakesh are also
available. A
Bergamo-
Tangier route has been opened
in July 2009.
Royal Air Maroc [4] — The state airline,
which drastically needs a price cut.
Atlas Blue [5] — A so-called budget
airline owned by Royal Air Maroc, but is still fairly
expensive.
Jet 4 You [6]
— A new low-cost carrier with extremely cheap tickets from
France and
Belgium.
Aigle Azur[7] — A small North-African
carrier with reasonable rates.
Thomson fly [8] — Flights from Manchester
to Marrakech and are very reasonably priced.
Binter Canarias [9] — Flights from Canary
Islands to Marrakech.
Many visitors also fly to
Gibraltar or
Malaga (which are often considerably cheaper to
get to) and take a ferry from
Algeciras,
Tarifa or
Gibraltar to
Tangier. This is not recommended in summer as
literally millions of Moroccans living in
Europe use this passage during the summer
holidays.
By car
The only open border posts on land are the ones at the Spanish
enclaves of
Ceuta and
Melilla. The frontier with
Algeria has been closed for ten years. For the closest maritime
connection you head for
Algeciras or
Tarifa in southern
Spain. At Algeciras there are ferry services to
Ceuta and
Tangier that carry
cars. Tarifa has a similar service to Tangier and this is the
shortest and fastest route, just 35 minutes.
It's possible also to enter
Mauritania by car from
Dakhla. Most countries citizens need a visa to
get in Mauritania which is available at the Mauritanian consulate
in Rabat (visas are no longer issued at the border).
It might be hard to get into Morocco with a commercial vehicle.
Campervans are acceptable (but they must look like a camper van),
but other commercial vehicles might get turned around and prevented
from travelling onwards. If you want to take a commercial vehicle,
and there is more than one person travelling, it may be worthwhile
if a French-speaking person travels to any international border
with Morocco of your choice and meets with the head of Customs
before you bring in a commercial vehicle.
By boat
Summary
There are several ferry connections to Morocco, mainly from
Spain.
Algeciras is the main port and serves
Ceuta and
Tangier. A ferry between Algeciras and Ceuta
takes 40 minutes, and less than 2 hours to get to Tangier. You can
also get to Tangier from the small port of
Tarifa, on the southernmost tip of mainland
Spain. This will take 35 minutes. Some companies run buses between
Tarifa and Algeciras for free (25 minutes), so you will have no
problems getting to the train station. Other Spanish ports that
have connections to Morocco are
Malaga and
Almeria who connect to
Melilla and its Moroccan neighbor town of
Nador.
Ferries from France also go to Tangier, from the port of
Sète near
Montpellier and Port Vendres near
Perpignan. However these
ferries are rather expensive. The Italian towns of
Genoa and
Naples also have direct connections to Tangier.
The British crown colony of
Gibraltar connects to Tangier through a
high-speed boat service.
Details
From Tarifa to Tangier the ferry costs €45 effective 3rd July
2009. Return cost 81 Euro with the date of return open. However,
you can get the ferry ticket from Tangier at Dh 390, about 36 Euro.
To Algeciras from Tangier, it costs Dh 395 single.
Get around
Trains are generally the best option because of
their speed, frequency and comfort, however the network is limited.
Train network links
Marrakech and
Tangier via
Casablanca and
Rabat, a branch line to Oujda starts at Sidi
Kachem linking
Meknes and
Fez to the main line.
Luxury buses are the next best bet, with almost
universal coverage, if with somewhat odd leaving times in some
places. CTM, Supratours and some smaller companies provide good
comfort with reasonable prices. Supratours buses offer specific
tickets to link with the rail system. All bus companies charge for
baggage separately, however CTM is the only one that does this
officially and provides baggage receipts. On Supratours, whoever
takes your bag will demand up to 20 MAD (pay no more than 5).
Local buses are a completely valid choice for
the hardier traveler, and often even have more leg room than the
luxury buses although this may be just because the seat in front of
you is disintegrating. They can be extraordinarily slow as they
will stop for anyone, anywhere, and no buses are air conditioned
(and locals hate open windows).
Shared taxi services (grand taxi) also operate
between towns; fares are semi-fixed and shared equally between
passengers. However note that there are six passenger seats per car
not four (this is for the ubiquitous Mercedes, there are 8 or 9
seats in the bigger Peugeots in the southeast). Two people are
expected to share the front seat, with four across the back. If you
want to leave immediately or you want extra space you can pay for
any additional empty seats. Grand taxis generally cost less than a
luxury bus but more than the local. Late at night, expect to be
charged a little more than at daytime, and also to pay for all the
seats in the car as it probably won't show up other customers late.
Petit taxis are not allowed to leave the city
borders and is thus not an option for traveling between cities.
However you are traveling, work out which direction you are
heading and where the sun will be for the majority of your trip and
choose a seat on the shady side.
By plane
Domestic flying is not a popular means of transportation,
however, Royal Air Maroc, the national flag carrier, has an
excellent but expensive network to most cities.
By train
People are incredibly sociable and friendly on the trains in
Morocco and you will find yourself perpetually talking to strangers
about your journey. Each new person will advise you on some new
place you should go or invite you to their home for couscous.
Stations in smaller cities are often poorly marked, and your fellow
passengers will be more than happy to let you know where you are
and when you should get off. It's expected to greet
(Salam) new passengers entering your compartment, and if
you bring fruit, cake etc its common to offer the other passengers
something as well. If you spend a little extra for 1st class you
increase your chances of meeting someone proficient in many
languages.
There are three daily departures from Tangier, bound for either
Oujda or
Marrakech, although all of them can be used
to reach either destination as there are corresponding trains in
Sidi Kachem using the opposite branch of the train coming from
Tangier. The night trains
between
Tangier and
Marrakech offer couchettes
for an extra dhr 100. This is the only option if you would like to
lay down sleeping as there are obstacles between the seats in
regular compartments.
The only drawback with Moroccan trains are that they are very
frequently delayed, so don't count on the timetables if you are in
a hurry.
The train network is operated by ONCF
[10].
Availability
The major cities,
Marrakech,
Meknes,
Fez,
Tangier,
Rabat,
Casablanca, etc are all linked by reliable
(if not very fast) rail links. There are usually several trains
every day to or from every major town. There is also a night train
between Marrakech and Tangier.
Cost
The trains are very cheap (compared to Europe). For example, a
single from
Tangier to
Marrakech costs about 200
dh (£15) second class, or 300dh (£20) first class.
By bus
Nearly every city has a central bus-station where you can buy
tickets to travel from region to region. You can either choose the
buses for tourists with air-conditioning and a TV. Or you can also
take the local buses which cost only 25%-50% and are much more fun.
They are not very comfortable, but you can get in contact with the
local people and learn a lot about the country. The buses often
take longer routes than the big ones, so you can see villages you
would never get to as a "normal" tourist. For heat-sensitive people
this is not advisable though, as locals may tell you that 35
degrees is "cool" and no reason for opening a window. The route
from Rissani, Erfoud, and Er Rachidia to Meknes and Fez, while
long, runs through the Middle and High Atlas and is particularly
scenic.
Luxury buses operated by CTM
[11] are
also inexpensive and offer an easier travelling experience than
local buses.
Supratours
[12], a major rival of CTM,
complements train network to Essaouira and all major Atlantic-coast
towns south to Marrakech.
By taxi
Travel by taxi is common in Morocco. There are two sorts:
- Petit taxi used only within the area of the town
- The grand taxi can be used for trips between towns,
and for larger groups
Prices for petit taxi are reasonable and it's
the law that taxis in town should have a meter - although they are
not always on. Insist that the driver starts the meter. If not, ask
for the fare before getting in (but it will be more expensive).
The grand taxi is a shared, generally
long-distance taxi, with a fixed rate for specific route; the
driver stopping and picking up passengers like a bus. Grand taxis
are usually found near main bus stops. Negotiate on price if you
want a journey to yourself and this will be based on distance
traveled and whether you are returning--but price per taxi should
not depend on the number of passengers in your group. When sharing
grand taxi with others, drivers may cheat tourist-looking
passengers charging higher--look how much locals around you pay;
don't worry to ask other passengers about the normal price, before
boarding or even when you're in.
Grand taxis are usually a ~10-years-old Mercedes regular sedans
that in Europe are used for up to 4 passengers plus driver. For
grand taxi, it is normal to share a car between up to 6 passengers.
Front seat is normally given to two women (as local women are not
allowed to be in contact with a man, they rarely take rear seats).
Travellers often pay for 2 seats that remain unoccupied to travel
with more space inside, and hence comfort.
Grand taxis can also be hired for approximately the price of two
petite taxis for shorter trips. This is useful if your party is of
four or more. Beware, some taxi drivers will refuse to drive off
until the taxi is full, potentially causing you delays.
Alternatively, for a relatively reasonable sum (depending on the
driver), you can hire a grand taxi in Marrakech for the entire day,
allowing you to explore the Ourika valley.
Taxi owners vie with each other to add extras such as sunshades.
A clean vehicle and smart driver is usually a good sign of a well
maintained vehicle.
By car
The main road network is in good condition. Roads have a good
surface, although very narrow, in most cases only one narrow lane
in each direction. Note that many roads in the south marked as
sealed are actually only one lane total sealed with wide shoulders
to be used every time you meet oncoming traffic.
The main cities are connected by toll expressways still being
extended.
- The expressway between Casablanca and Rabat
(A3) was finished in 1987.
- It was extended from Rabat to Kénitra in 1995
and today reaches the northern port of Tangier
(A1).
- Another expressway (A2) goes eastwards from Rabat to
Fez some 200 km down the road. It comprises part of the
planned transmaghrébine expressway that will continue all the way
to Tripoli.
- South from Casablanca runs the A7. It is
planned to reach Agadir in December of 2009 but currently only goes
as far as Marrakech 210 km south of
Casablanca.
- Around Casablanca and down the coast is the A5
expressway which connects Mohammedia and El
Jadida.
- Construction started in 2006 for the A2 between Fez and
Oujda on the Algerian border which will be completed by
2010.
Fuel is not so common in the countryside so plan ahead and get a
good map. Roads are varied and mixed with many cyclists,
pedestrians and horse-drawn vehicles.
Roadsigns are in Arabic and French and the traffic law is as in
much of Europe but you give way to the right. Be very careful as
many drivers respect signs only if a policeman is nearby. This
means that traffic on a roundabout gives way to that entering it.
There are numerous police checks on the main roads where you must
slow down to allow them to see you. The speed limit is enforced
especially the 40kph in towns and on dangerous intersections where
fines are imposed on the spot. General rule is that vehicles larger
than yours should be given a priority: trucks, buses and even grand
taxis.
Driving safely in Morocco takes practice and patience but can
take you to some really beautiful places.
The centre of Marrakech can be a scary place to drive. You will
be constantly beeped at, regardless of how well you drive.
Marrakchis like to beep their horns at anyone they feel to be
holding them up. This may mean even if you're just in front of them
at a red light. Also, pay very close attention to your wingmirrors
and your blind spots. The two lane roads often become
free-for-alls, up to the point at which you may see four cars wing
to wing at a red light. One of the major hazards on the roads in
Marrakech are the mobilettes. These pushbikes with an engine will
zig-zag around you and generally make themselves a nuisance,
however, on longer stretches of road, they tend to keep to the
right. Often, a few beeps of the horn will cause a mobilette rider
to pay a little more attention to his surroundings. However, be
warned that some drivers pay absolutely no attention to your horn,
as they have become so used to the sound. Drive defensively, and
keep your speed down, so any accident causes minimum damage. Do not
be intimidated by other drivers. Make sure that you drive
predictably, and don't do anything rash.
Rental firms abound in the large cities. Most worldwide rental
networks have their offices in Morocco. Also there are several
local rental companies (5-7 have rep offices in Casablanca
airport). They offer lower prices, but be sure to check the
vehicles condition, spare tire, jack etc. Local companies may be
less proficient in English--but if you are ready for a higher risk,
when you rent in an airport try to negotiate with them first; if
failed you always have worldwide rivals to go next.
Multinational companies seem to easily share cars with each
other (although prices and service level may vary), so if your
company of choice doesn't have what you need they may ask from
another company.
Check where you can drive - some rental companies won't allow
travel on unmade roads.
Alamo/National
All Alamo and National Car Rental offices are co-located in
Morocco.
During low season (November) expect at least 20% discount from
the list price if you come without a reservation--at least for
economic class (Peugeot 206, Renault Logan Dacia).
Deposit is taken as a paper slip of a credit card; Alamo is
unable to transfer your slip to the city of your destination if
it's different from your starting point.
Some economy-class cars (like Peugeot 206) are as old as 4
years, with mileage up to 120,000 km.
Renting a vehicle with
driver/guide
Some tour operators will arrange for you to hire a 4x4 or SUV
with a driver/guide, and offer customised itineraries, including
advanced booking in hotels, ryads, etc.
By tour
Several tour companies operate in Morocco. Each is unique in
services offered but most operate with safety in mind.
By Thumb
Hitching is a routine form of travel in the country.
Particularly in large farm trucks which supplement income by
picking up paying passengers. Price is about half that of a grand
taxi. Expect to ride in the back with lots of locals.
A Berber man watches the sea in
Tangier
- Moroccan Arabic is a dialect
of Maghreb Arabic. The language is fairly different from the Arabic
traditionally spoken in the Middle East and is also slightly
influenced by French or Spanish, depending on where in the country
you are. This dialect is also related to Spanish, as Spanish was
heavily influenced by Arabic from Morocco before the expulsion of
1492.
- Berber, or the Amazigh language, is spoken by Morocco's Berber
population. In the mountainous regions of the north the dialect is
Tarifit, the central region the dialect is
Tamazight, and in the south of the country the dialect is
Tachelheet.
- French is widely understood in
Morocco, and it is the most useful non-Arabic language to
know.
- Although you will find people who speak English and Spanish
in tourist centers, many of these will be touts and faux guides,
who may become a burden. Some shop owners and hotel managers in
urban centers also speak English, but outside of that English is
not widely understood.
Do
Hammams
There are two types of Hammam (steam baths) across Morocco.
The first is the tourist hammam, where you can
go and be pampered and scrubbed by an experienced staff member. As
these are promoted only to tourists they are the more expensive
option with pricing usually around DH 150 for a hammam. They can
not be technically referred to as a proper hammam, but they are
nonetheless enjoyable, especially for the timid. Your hotel can
recommend a good one.
The second option is to visit a "popular"
Hammam. Popular hammams are the places where the locals
go. Ask the staff at your hotel where they would go.
At the popular hammams, you do it all yourself. To make the most
of a popular hammam, you need to take a scrubbing mitten (available
cheap in the Souks), a towel, and some extra underwear (otherwise,
you will be going home without any, as it will be sopping wet).
Popular hammams are often only identified by tiles around a door
and entrance way. If you do not speak French or Arabic, it could be
a daunting, or at least a very memorable, experience. Men &
women have either separate session times or separate hammams.
Nudity in a popular hammam is strictly
forbidden for men, so be prepared to wear your underwear
or a bathing suit. For women, you'll see some wearing underwear and
some going naked.
Whilst in a popular hammam, you may be offered help and a
massage from another person. It is essential to remember that this
massage is nothing but a massage, with no other
intentions. Sexual contact or presumption of sexual contact does
not occur in these places. If you accept a massage, be prepared to
return the favor.
Normal entrance prices for a popular hammam are DH 7-15, a scrub
will cost around DH 30, and a massage another DH 30.
Buy
Money
The local currency is the Moroccan dirham (Dh
or MAD), which is divided into 100 centimes (c).
As of October 2009, £1 is worth around DH 13.13, $1 is worth
around DH 7.69 and 1€ is worth around DH 11.24.
There are 5c, 10c, 20c, 50c, Dh 1, Dh 2, Dh 5, Dh 10 coins,
although coins smaller than 20c are rarely seen these days. Notes
are available in denominations of Dh 10, Dh 20, Dh 50, Dh 100, and
Dh 200.
While the dirham is the only currency officially accepted in
Morocco, some hotels may accept your EUR/USD unofficially.
Money Exchange: It's illegal to bring local
currency out of the country, so you can't get dirhams outside
Morocco. By law, exchange rates should be the same at all banks and
official exchanges. Make a note of the exact rates before you go to
make sure you're getting a fair deal.
Don't expect to see many banks in the souqs or
medinas, although in larger cities there are often an ATM
near the main gates, and even one or two inside the large souqs (if
you manage to find your way). You may also encounter "helpful"
people who will exchange dollars or euros for dirhams. Unofficial
exchange on the streets outside souqs or medinas doesn't seem to
exist.
Besides banks and dedicated exchange offices, major post offices
provide exchange, and work until late hours. There are several
exchange offices in Casablanca airport.
ATMs can be found near tourist hotels and in
the modern ville nouvelle shopping districts. Make sure
that the ATM accepts foreign cards (look for the Maestro, Cirrus or
Plus logos) before you put your card in.
Try to have as much small change as possible and keep larger
bills hidden separately.
What to buy?
Apart from classical tourist souvenirs like postcards and
trinkets, here are some things from this region that are hard to
find elsewhere, or even unique:
- Dates: 10 Dhm for an orange box seems an
adequate price after some bargaining.
- Leatherware: Morocco has a really huge
production of leather goods. Markets are full of mediocre models
and designer shops are hard to find.
- Argan oil and products made of it such as soap
and cosmetics.
- Tagines: Classic Moroccan cooking dishes made
of clay will improve oil/water based meals you make if you plan to
bring Morocco to your kitchen back home.
- Birad: Classic Moroccan tea pots.
- Djellabah: Classic Moroccan designer robe with
a hood. Often come in intricate designs and some are suited for
warm weather while other heavier styles are for the cold.
If you're looking for T-shirts, consider designer items by
Kawibi--they look much more inspiring than boring traditional set
of themes. They are available in duty-free stores, Atlas Airport
Hotel near Casablanca and other places.
Bargaining
Remember that
bargaining in
the souks is expected. It is not really possible to give an
accurate indication of how much to start the bargaining at in
relation to the initial asking price, but a general idea would be
to aim for approximately 50% off. Prices are set on a daily, even,
hourly basis, depending on how much has been sold on a given day
(or period of hours), while also reflecting the vendor's personal
estimation of the potential client. The souks are often a good
reflection of the basic economic principles of supply and demand,
particularly with regard to the demand side. If a lot of products
have been sold by a particular merchant he/she will raise the
price, and may refuse to sell any more products for the rest of
that day (or for days) unless the price is much higher than usual.
If there are many tourists around prices go higher and bargaining
even small amounts off the asking price becomes quite difficult. In
addition, the seller will generally inspect the client, whose dress
and possessions (particularly if the potential client sports an
expensive Swiss watch, camera, etc) are usually the main indication
of how high the price may be set above the usual. However, the
potential client's attitude is also taken into consideration.
Taking all this and other factors into account (such as the time
of day, day of the week, season, etc.), initial prices may be up to
50 times or more in excess of normal prices, especially for more
expensive items, such as carpets. Carpets,
however, are a very specialized item and it is necessary to have at
least a cursory understanding of production techniques and
qualities. If possible, an ability to distinguish between hand-made
and machine-made carpets, hand-dyes, and the like is helpful to
avoid being utterly duped.
Bargaining is an enjoyable experience for most
vendors and they prefer clients that don't appear hurried
and are willing to take the time to negotiate. It is most often
actually necessary to give reasons why you believe the price should
be lower. The reasons you might give are limited only by your
imagination and often lead to some very entertaining discussions.
Common reasons may include: the price of the item elsewhere, the
item not being exactly what you are after, the fact that you have
purchased other items from the stall/store, that you have built a
rapport with the vendor after discussing football and so forth. On
the other hand, if there is little movement in the price
after some time, the best advice is to begin leaving, this
often has the result of kick-starting the bidding anew, and if not,
it is likely that the merchant is actually unwilling to go further
below a given price, however absurd.
It is also important to show a genuine interest for the
workmanship of the product for sale, no matter how
disinterested you may actually be in what you are buying. This does
not, however, mean that you should appear over-enthusiastic, as
this will encourage the vendor to hold his or her price. Rather, it
is important to project a critical appreciation for each
article/object. Any defects are either unacceptable or a further
opportunity to bargain the price down.
You should take caution to never begin bidding for unwanted
items or to give the vendor a price you are unwilling or unable
(with cash on hand) to pay. Try to avoid paying by credit card at
all costs. In the event you do pay by credit card, never let it out
of your sight and demand as many receipts as possible. There is
typically a credit card carbon copy and an official shop
receipt.
Never tell a vendor where you are staying and
'never tell a vendor how much you paid for any other
purchases. Just say you got a good price and you want a
good price from him or her too. And, above all, never be afraid to
say 'No'.
It must also be said that, as is true for buyers, not all
sellers are actually very good at what they do. A vendor that is
completely disinterested or even aggressive is unlikely to give a
good price. Move on.
Spices pyramids in Casablanca's
souk
Moroccan cuisine is often reputed to be some of the best in the
world, with countless dishes and variations proudly bearing the
country's colonial and Arabic influences. Unfortunately as a
tourist through Morocco, especially if you're on a budget, you'll
be limited to the handful of dishes that seem to have a monopoly on
cafe and restaurant menus throughout the country. Most restaurants
serve dishes foreign to Morocco considering that Moroccans can eat
their domestic dishes at home. Apart from major cities, Morocans do
not generally eat out in restaurants so choice is generally limited
to international fare such as Chinese, Indian and French
cuisine.
- Couscous made from semolina grains and steamed
in a colander-like dish known as a couscoussière is the
staple food for most Moroccans, and is probably the best known
Moroccan meal. It can be served as an accompaniment to a stew or
tagine, or mixed with meat and vegetables and presented as
a main course. Almost all Moroccan restaurants uphold the tradition
of serving couscous on Fridays.
- Tagine, a spicy stew of meat and
vegetables that has been simmered for many hours in a conical clay
pot (from which the dish derives its name). Restaurants offer
dozens of variations (from Dh 25 in budget restaurant) including
chicken tagine with lemon and olives, honey-sweetened lamb
or beef, fish or prawn tagine in a spicy tomato sauce.
There are many variations of this dish.
- A popular Berber contribution to Moroccan cuisine is
kaliya, a combination of lamb, tomatoes,
bell peppers and onion and served with couscous or bread.
- A popular delicacy in Morocco is Pastilla,
made by layering thin pieces of flakey dough between sweet, spiced
meat filling (often lamb or chicken, but most enjoyably pigeon) and
layers of almond-paste filling. The dough is wrapped into a
plate-sized pastry that is baked and coated with a dusting of
powdered sugar.
A Dh 3 - Dh 5 serve of harira or besara will
always include some bread to mop the soup up and will fill you up
for breakfast or lunch:
- Moroccans often elect to begin their meals with warming bowl of
harira (French: soupe
marocaine), a delicious soup made from lentils, chick peas,
lamb stock, tomatoes and vegetables. Surprisingly, among Moroccans
harira has a role of nourishing food for "blue-collars" rather than
a high-flying cuisine.
- Soups are also traditional breakfasts in Morocco.
Bissara, a thick glop made from split
peas and a generous wallop of olive oil can be found bubbling away
near markets and in medinas in the mornings.
Many cafes (see Drink) and restaurants also offer good value
petit déjeuner breakfast deals, which
basically include a tea or coffee, orange juice (jus
d'Orange) and a croissant or bread with marmalade from Dh
10.
Snacks and fast food
Snackers and budget watchers are well catered for in Morocco.
Rotisserie chicken shops abound, where you can get
a quarter chicken served with fries and salad for around Dh 20.
Sandwiches (from Dh 10) served from rotisserie
chicken shops or hole-in-the-wall establishments are also popular.
These fresh crusty baguettes are stuffed with any number of
fillings including tuna, chicken, brochettes and a variety
of salads. This is all usually topped off with the obligatory wad
of French fries stuffed into the sandwich and lashings of
mayonnaise squeezed on top.
You may also see hawkers and vendors selling a variety of
nuts, as well as steamed broad
beans and BBQ'd corn cobs.
Drink
As a predominantly Muslim country, Morocco is not
dry.
Alcohol is available in restaurants, liquor stores, bars,
supermarkets, clubs, hotels and discos. Some Moroccans enjoy a
drink although it is disapproved in public places. The local brew
of choice carries the highly original name of Casablanca Beer. It
is a full flavored lager and enjoyable with the local cuisine or as
a refreshment. The other two major Moroccan beers are Flag Special
and Stork. Also you can find local judeo-berber vodka, mild anise
flavored and brewed from figs.
As a rule, do not drink tap water at all in Morocco, even in
hotels, as it contains much higher levels of minerals than the
water in Europe. For local people this is not a problem as their
bodies are used to this and can cope, but for travellers from
places such as Europe, drinking the tap water will usually result
in illness. Generally this is not serious, an upset stomach being
the only symptom, but it is enough to spoil a day or two of your
holiday.
Bottled water is widely available. Popular brands of water
include Oulmes (sparkling) and Sidi Ali, Sidi Harazem and Ain Saiss
DANONE (still). The latter has a slightly mineral and metallic
taste. Nothing with a high mineralization produced (so far?).
Any traveller will be offered mint tea at least once a day. Even
the most financially modest Moroccan is equipped with a tea pot and
a few glasses. Although sometimes the offer is more of a lure into
a shop than a hospitable gesture, it is polite to accept. Before
drinking, look the host in the eye and say 'bi saha raha'. It means
enjoy and relax and any local will be impressed with your language
skills.
Note that a solo woman may feel more comfortable having a drink
or snack at a pastry shop or restaurant as cafes are traditionally
for men. This doesn't apply to couples though.
Sleep
Hotels in Morocco are a matter of choice and fit every budget.
Classified hotels are 1 star (simple) to 5 star (luxury), and are
classified as an auberge, riad, rural gîtes
d'étape or hotel. Stays usually include breakfast, and many
include dinner.
Places to stay
Auberges are found in the country or
in rural small towns, and are built in the traditional mud
(kasbah) style, many with wood burning fireplaces and
salons or roof terraces for taking meals. Auberge are very
comfortable, small and usually family run and owned.
In
Marrakech,
Essaouira and
Fes or anywhere there is a medina (old
city), small hotels renovated from old houses are called
riads. Riads are usually small (about 6
rooms or less), clean and charming, often with to a lovely walled
garden where breakfast is served on an inner patio or up on a roof
terrace. Riads are usually too small to have a swimming pool, but
may have what is called a tiny plunge pool to cool off in during
summer months. Some riads are in former merchant houses or palaces
and may have large opulent rooms and gardens.
Gîtes d'étape are simple country inns
and hostel style places, where mountain trekkers can grab a hot
shower, a good meal, and have a roof over their head for one
night.
Desert bivouacs are traditional nomad carpeted wool tents with a
mattress, sheets and blankets. You can shower at the auberge where
you will also have breakfast.
Otherwise there are the usual more modern hotels or equivalent
found anywhere in the big cities and larger towns around Morocco.
On the lower end of the budget scale, HI-affiliated youth
hostels can be found in the major cities (dorm beds from
around Dh 50) while the cheapest budget hotels
(singles from around Dh 65) are usually located in the
medina. These hotels can be very basic and often lack hot
water and showers, while others will charge you between Dh 5 and Dh
10 for a hot water shower. Instead, consider public
hammams as there are quite a lot of them in the
medina and in rural areas.
Newer, cleaner and slightly more expensive budget (singles from
around Dh 75) and mid-range hotels that are sprinkled throughout
the ville nouvelles.
Many hotels, especially those in the medina have
delightful roof terraces, where you can sleep if the weather's too
hot. If you don't need a room, you can often rent mattresses on the
roof from Dh 25.
For those looking to camp, almost every town
and city has a campground, although these can often be some way out
of the centre. Many of these grounds have water, electricity and
cafes. In rural areas and villages, locals are usually more than
happy to let you camp on their property; just make sure you ask
first.
With the exception of large high end hotels, expect the hot
water supply in hotels to not be as stable as in more established
countries. In Marrakech, MHamid, near Ourzazate and possibly other
places, the hot water temperature varies dramatically while you
take a shower.
Learn
Most foreigners looking to study in Morocco are seeking either
Arabic or French language courses. All major
cities have language centres, and some will even arrange homestays
with an Arabic-speaking family during your course.
- Qalam wa Lawh Center for Arabic Studies [13], 31 Rue Qadi Ben Hamadi
Essenhaji, Souissi Rabat. Tel: (37) 75 57 90, arabic@qalamcenter.com.
Offers courses in Modern Standard Arabic, Colloquial Morocccan
Arabic, Moroccan Culture, and Islamic History.
- Subul Assalam Centre for the Arabic Language
(SACAL) [14], Meknes way, Lotissement
Al Hadika, Lot no. Q4/008, Fez. Tel: (+212) 35 65 07 06, sacal_fez@yahoo.com. Offers
courses in Modern Standard Arabic, Moroccan Colloquial Arabic and a
series of English language courses on Islam and Morocco.
- The Institute for Language Communication
Studies [15],
29 Oukaimeden St, Agdal in Rabat. Tel: (37) 67 59 68, Fax: (37) 67
59 65, ilcs.adm@ilcs.ac.ma. The
Insitute is one such centre with accelerated and intensive courses
starting from Dh 3,000.
- The Arabic Language Institute in Fez (ALIF) [16], B.P. 2136, Fez 30000,
Morocco. Tel: (212/35) 62 48 50, Fax: (212/35) 93 16 08, info@alif-fes.com This is
language school offering a variety of coursework in both Moroccan
Arabic and Modern Standard Arabic.
- Dar Loughat - Cross-Cultural Language Center
[17], Tel: +212 66 66 8 77
88, info@cclc-morocco.org. Dar
Loughat is a professional language center in Morocco providing
intensive courses in all levels of Modern Standard Arabic and
Colloquial Moroccan Arabic throughout the year. Through various
immersion and language exchange activities, Dar Loughat provides
its students daily contact with Moroccan life, allowing them to
expand their vocabulary, improve their spoken language performance
and better understand the local culture.
Cope
Some Moroccans that you meet on the streets have come up with
dozens of ways to part you from your money. Keep your wits about
you, but don't let your wariness stop you from accepting any offers
of generous Moroccan hospitality. Put on a smile and greet
everybody that greets you, but still be firm if you are not
interested. This will leave you significantly better off than just
ignoring them.
- Faux guides and touts congregate
around tourist areas and will offer to show you around the
medinas, help you find accommodation, take you to a
handicraft warehouse, or even score some drugs. While these men can
often be harmless, never accept drugs or other products from them.
Be polite, but make it clear if you're not interested in their
services, and if they get too persistent, head for a taxi,
salon de the, or into the nearest shop - the shopkeeper
will show the faux guide away.
- The best way to avoid Faux guides and touts is to avoid eye
contact and ignore them, this will generally discourage them as
they will try to invest their time in bothering another
more willing tourist. Another way is to walk quickly; if eye
contact happens just give them a smile, preferably a
strong and beaming one rather than a shy
one meaning no! thanks (they are very clever in judging
human emotions and will bother you if they feel a weakness). The
word La ( Arabic for No ) can be particularly effective,
since it doesn't reveal your native language. Just another is to
pretend you only speak some exotic language and don't understand
whatever they say. Be polite and walk away. If you engage in
arguing or a conversation with them, you will have a hell of time
getting rid of them, as they are incredibly persistent and are
masters in harassment, nothing really embarrasses them as they
consider this being their way of earning their living.
- Some of the more common tactics to be aware of are as
follows.
- Many Faux guides will pretend they are
students when they approach you and that they just want to practice
their English and learn about your culture, invariably if you
follow them, there is a big chance you will end up in a carpet or
souvenirs shop. A variant is they will show you an English letter
and will ask you to translate it for them, or will ask for your
help to their English speaking friend/cousin/relative etc
abroad.
- Expect to be told that anywhere and everywhere is 'closed'.
Invariably, this is not the case, but a con to get you to follow
them instead. Do not do this.
- Do not accept 'free gifts' from vendors. You will find that a
group of people will approach you accusing you of stealing it, and
will extort the price from you.
- Always insist that prices are fixed beforehand. This is
especially true for taxi fares, where trips around a city should
cost no more than 20 Dirham, in general, or be done on the meter.
This cannot be stressed enough. In ALL situations (including Henna
Tatoos) always agree on a price before!
- When bargaining, never name a price that you are not willing to
pay.
- At bus/train stations, people will tell you that there have
been cancellations, and that you won't be able to get a bus/train.
Again, this is almost always a con to get you to accept a hyped-up
taxi fare.
- In general, do not accept the services of people who approach
you.
- Never be afraid to say no.
- Drugs are another favourite of scam artists.
In cities around the Rif Mountains, especially Tetouan and Chefchaouen, you will almost certainly be
offered kif (dope). Some dealers will sell you the dope,
then turn you in to the police for a cut of the baksheesh
you pay to bribe your way out, while others will get you stoned
before selling you lawn clippings in plasticine.
- Ticket inspectors on trains have reportedly
attempted to extricate a few extra dirham from unsuspecting
tourists by finding something 'wrong' with their tickets. Make sure
your tickets are in order before you board, and if you find
yourself being hassled, insist on taking the matter up with the
station manager at your destination.
- Moroccan toilets, even those in hotels or
restaurants, could lack toilet paper. It is worth
buying a roll (french: "papier toilette").
Try to learn at least a phrasebook level of competency in French
or Arabic (Spanish may help you in the North - but not largely).
Just being able to say "Ith'hab!" ("Go Away!") may be
useful to you... Many locals (especially the nice ones who are not
trying to take advantage of you) will speak limited English. If you
can at least verify prices in French with locals, you could end up
saving a lot of money.
What to wear
You won't need high and heavy mountain boots unless you go in
coldest time of the year like February: it's quite warm in the
country even when it's heavy raining in November. Even in medinas,
streets are paved if not asphalted--just be sure your footwear is
not toeless in medina, as it may be dirty or unsanitary.
For trekking in valleys, low trekking shoes will be likely
enough.
For a desert trip to dunes, ensure your pockets can be easily
shaken out as sand gets in there very quickly.
Stay Safe
Like any country, Morocco has its share of problems, but they
can be easily avoided should you follow common sense. Avoid dark
alleys. Travel in a group whenever possible. Keep money and
passports in a safety wallet or in a hotel safety deposit box. Keep
backpacks and purses with you at all times. Make sure there is
nothing important in outside or back pockets.
Women especially will experience almost constant harassment if
alone, but this is usually just cat-calls and (disturbingly)
hisses. Don't feel the need to be polite--no Moroccan woman would
put up with behaviour like that. Dark sunglasses make it easier to
avoid eye contact. If someone won't leave you alone, look for
families, a busy shop, or a local woman and don't be afraid to ask
for help. If you are so inclined, you could wear a hijab
(headscarf), but this is not necessary. Morocco can be a very
liberal country and many Moroccan women do not wear headscarves.
However, women should always dress conservatively (no
low-cut tops, midriffs, or shorts) out of respect for the culture
they are visiting. In cities, women can wear more revealing
clothing but as a general rule they should follow the lead from
local women. Locals will also assume that Moroccan women venturing
into ville nouvelle nightclubs or bars alone are
prostitutes in search of clientèle but foreign women entering such
places will be not be so considered but will be thought of as
approachable.
Be careful about being drugged, especially as a solo traveler.
The common and easy-to-make drug GHB only lasts 3 hours and is
undetectable in the body after 7 hours, so if you are attacked take
action immediately.
Hustlers can be a big problem for people travelling to Morocco,
and Tangier in particular. It's often difficult to walk down the
street without being accosted by somebody offering to give you
directions, sell you something, etc. Your best bet is to politely
refuse their services and keep walking, as all they are after is
money. There are some legitimate tour guides, but just know that
your guide will receive a commission on anything you buy while
you're with them, so don't let yourself be pressured into
purchasing anything you don't want. In certain places, hustlers
will do their best to intimidate you, they can be very clingy,
insisting that you give them money or offering their 'services'.
Don't be intimidated by this; usually a firm "No" does the trick.
Some of them can get nasty and abusive but before it gets to that
stage walk towards a shop or crowd, most Moroccans would
immediately tell the person off if they see that you are being
harassed. Generally, western women should not travel to Morocco
alone to avoid problems.
Armed fighting in the disputed areas of the Western Sahara are
less frequent now, but clashes between government forces and the
Polisario Front still occur. Don't wander too far off the beaten
path either, as this region is also
heavily-mined.
- Inoculations: No particular inoculations are
needed for Morocco under normal circumstances, but check with the
CDC's [18] travel web pages for
any recent disease outbreaks. As with most travel, it makes good
sense to have a recent tetanus immunization. If you plan to eat
outside the circle of established restaurants, consider a Hepatitis
A inoculation.
- Food and Drink: Avoid uncooked fruits and
vegetables that you can not peel. Avoid any food that is not
prepared when you order it (i.e. buffets, etc). Usually fried and
boiled foods are safe. Some travellers have also had problems with
unrefrigerated condiments (such as mayonnaise) used in fast food
outlets.
- Water: It is advisable to drink bottled water
(check that the cap is sealed - some people might try to sell you
tap water in recycled bottles). Be wary of ice or cordials that may
be made with tap water. Some hotels provide free bottled water to
guests and its wise to keep a supply in your room so as not to be
tempted with tap water.
- Shoes: Keep your sandals/tevas etc for the
beach. Moroccan streets double as garbage disposal areas and you do
not want to wade though fish heads and chicken parts with open-toe
shoes.
- Malaria: Present in the northern, coastal
areas of the country but is not a major problem. Take the usual
precautions against being bitten (light coloured clothing, insect
repellent, etc) and if you are really worried see your doctor about
anti-malarial medication before your departure.
- Greetings among close friends and family (but
rarely between men and women!) usually take the form of three pecks
on the cheek. In other circumstances handshakes are the norm.
Following the handshake by touching your heart with your right hand
signifies respect and sincerity.
- Left hands used to traditionally be considered
'unclean' in the Muslim religion and Arabic nomadic cultures, as
they used to be reserved for hygiene in toilets. Like in many
cultures in could be considered impolite to shake hands or offer or
accept something from someone by your left, more so is giving money
by your left, so try to avoid that. While left-handed people may
get an occasional exclamation and local children may get pressured
by parents to use their right in traditional societies, most people
will understand if you do your own business with your left
hand.
- Elders Moroccans still have the tradition of
highly respecting their elders and the sick. If someone who is
handicapped or older than you is passing, then stop and allot room
for them. Or if a taxi arrives and you are waiting with an elder,
then it is required for you to allow the older person to take
precedence over you. Tourists are not held to these same
expectations, but it improves regard for tourists in Morocco when
they adhere to the same traditions.
Contact
Telephone
Public telephones can be found in city centres,
but private
telephone offices (also known as
teleboutiques or
telekiosques) are also commonly
used. The international dialling prefix (to dial
out of
the country) is 00, but international rates are comparatively
expensive. If you have a lot of phone calls to make, it may be
worth ducking into the Spanish enclaves of
Ceuta or
Melilla.
The telephone numbering scheme is changed starting March
2009. All fixed telephone numbers have a 5 inserted after
the 0, and all mobile telephone numbers have a 6
inserted after the 0. All numbers are now ten-digit long,
counting the initial 0.
Useful Numbers Police: 19; Fire Service: 15;
Highway Emergency Service: 177; Information: 160; International
Information: 120; Telegrams and telephone: 140; Intercity: 100.
The GSM
mobile telephone network in Morocco can
be accessed via one of two major operators: Meditel
[19] or Maroc Telecom
[20]. Prepaid cards are
available. More infos on available services, coverage and roaming
partners are available at: GSMWorld
[21].
It is very easy and cheap to buy a local GSM prepaid card in one
of the numberous phone shops showing a Maroc Telecom sign. The SIM
card (carte Jawal) costs only 30 DH (3 €) with 10 DH (1 €) airtime.
The rate is national: 3-4 DH, to Europe ca. 10 DH, SMS 3 DH. The
card is valid 6 month after the last recharge.
Post
The Moroccan postal service is generally reliable and offers a
post restante service in major cities for a small fee. You
will need some identification (preferably your passport) to collect
your mail.
Items shipped as freight are inspected at the
post office before they are sent, so wait until this has been done
before you seal the box.
Email & internet
Moroccans have really taken to the internet. Internet
cafes are open late and are numerous in cities and smaller
towns that see significant tourist traffic. Rates are about 4 - 10
dirhams per hour and they are often located next to, above, or
below the telekiosque offices. Speeds are acceptable to
excellent in the north, but can be a little on the slow side in
rural areas. Most internet cafes will allow you to print and burn
CDs for a small charge.
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