From Wikitravel
- For other places with the same name, see Paris
(disambiguation).
- Paris is a huge city with several district articles containing sightseeing, restaurant,
nightlife and accommodation listings — consider printing them
all.
Paris, the cosmopolitan capital of
France, is - with 2.2 million
people living in the small (105 km²) central city, and another 8
million people in the suburbs (
la banlieue) - one of the
largest agglomerations in
Europe. Located in the north of the country on
the river Seine, Paris has the reputation of being the most
beautiful and romantic of all cities, brimming with historic
associations and remaining vastly influential in the realms of
culture, art, fashion, food and design. Dubbed the
City of
Light (
la Ville Lumière), it is the most popular
tourist destination in the world.
Paris and the river Seine
Districts
Central Paris is officially divided into 20 districts called
arrondissements, numbered from 1 to 20 in a clockwise
spiral from the centre of the city (known as Kilometre
Zero and is located at the front of Notre Dame).
Arrondissements are named according to their number. You
might, for example, stay in the "5th", which would be written as
5e (SANK-ee-emm) in French. The 12th and 16th
arrondissements include large suburban parks, the Bois de
Vincennes, and the Bois de Boulogne respectively.
The very best map you can get for Paris is called "
Paris
Pratique par Arrondissement" which you can buy for about €2-4
at any news stand. It makes navigating the city easy- so much that
one can imagine that the introduction of such map-books might be
part of what made the
arrondissement concept so popular in
the first place. Alternately you can print your own using our
maps.
Each arrondissement has its own unique character and
selection of attractions for the traveller:
The Layout of Paris by district
- 1st (1er).
The geographical centre of Paris and a great starting point for
travellers. The Musée du Louvre, the Jardin des
Tuileries, Place Vendôme, Les Halles,
Palais Royal, Comédie-Française, and Arc de
Triomphe du Carrousel are all to be found here.
- 2nd (2e).
The central business district of the city - the Bourse
(the Paris Stock Exchange), Opéra-Comique, Théâtre des
Variétés, Passage des Panoramas, Théâtre des
Bouffes Parisiens and the Bibliothèque Nationale are
located here.
- 3rd (3e).
Archives Nationales, Musée Carnavalet,
Conservatoire des Arts et Métiers, Hôtel de
Soubise, the Former Temple fortress, and the
northern, quieter part of the Marais can be found
here.
- 4th (4e).
Notre-Dame de Paris, the Hôtel de Ville (Paris
city hall), Hôtel de Sully, Rue des Rosiers and
the Jewish Quartier, Beaubourg, Le Marais,
Bazar de l'Hôtel de Ville, Centre Georges
Pompidou, Place des Vosges, Bibliothèque de
l'Arsenal, Saint-Jacques Tower and Parisian island
Île Saint-Louis can be found here.
- 5th (5e).
Jardin des Plantes, Muséum National d'Histoire
Naturelle, Musée de Cluny, The Panthéon,
Quartier Latin, Universités, La
Sorbonne, Bibliothèque Sainte-Geneviève, Église
Saint-Séverin, La Grande Mosquée, Le Musée de
l'AP-HP can be located here.
- 6th (6e).
Jardin du Luxembourg as well as its Sénat,
Place Saint-Michel, Église Saint-Sulpice and
Saint-Germain des Prés can be found here.
- 8th (8e).^ (Musée du Louvre/Les Halles) .
- Luxury & Boutique Hotels in Paris | Tablet Hotels 28 January 2010 0:38 UTC www.tablethotels.com [Source type: News]
^ (Eiffel Tower/Musée D'Orsay) .- Luxury & Boutique Hotels in Paris | Tablet Hotels 28 January 2010 0:38 UTC www.tablethotels.com [Source type: News]
Champs-Elysées, Arc de Triomphe, Place de la
Concorde, le Palais de l'Elysée, Église de la
Madeleine,Jacquemart-Andre Museum, Gare
Saint-Lazare, Grand Palais and Petit Palais
can be found here.
- 9th (9e).
Opéra Garnier, Galeries Lafayette, Musée
Grévin, and Folies Bergère can be found here.
- 10th
(10e). Canal Saint-Martin,
Gare du Nord, Gare de l'Est, Porte
Saint-Denis, Porte Saint-Martin, Passage
Brady, Passage du Prado, and Église
Saint-Vincent-de-Paul can be found here.
- 11th
(11e). The bars and restaurants of Rue
Oberkampf, Bastille, Nation, New Jewish
Quarter, Cirque d'Hiver, and Église
Saint-Ambroise can be found here.
- 12th
(12e). Opéra Bastille,
Bercy Park and Village, Promenade Plantée,
Quartier d'Aligre, Gare de Lyon, Cimetière de
Picpus, Viaduc des arts the Bois de
Vincennes, and the Zoo de Vincennes can be found
here.
- 13th
(13e). Quartier la Petite Asie,
Place d'Italie, La Butte aux Cailles,
Bibliothèque Nationale de France (BNF), Gare
d'Austerlitz, Manufacture des Gobelins,
Butte-aux-Cailles and Pitié-Salpêtrière Hospital
can be found here.
- 15th
(15e).^ (Ile de la Cité/Ile St-Louis & Beaubourg) .
- Luxury & Boutique Hotels in Paris | Tablet Hotels 28 January 2010 0:38 UTC www.tablethotels.com [Source type: News]
Tour Montparnasse,
Porte de Versailles, Front de Seine, La
Ruche and quartiers Saint-Lambert, Necker,
Grenelle and Javel can be found here.
- 16th
(16e). Palais de Chaillot,
Musée de l'Homme, the Bois de Boulogne,
Cimetière de Passy, Parc des Princes, Musée
Marmottan-Monet, Trocadéro, and Avenue Foch
can be found here.
- 17th
(17e). Palais des Congrès,
Place de Clichy, Parc Monceau, Marché
Poncelet, and Square des Batignolles can be found
here.
- 18th
(18e). Montmartre,
Pigalle, Barbès, Basilica of the Sacré
Cœur, Église Saint-Jean-de-Montmartre, and Goutte
d'Or can be found here.
- 19th
(19e). Cité des Sciences et de
l'Industrie, Parc de la Villette, Bassin de la
Villette, Parc des Buttes Chaumont, Cité de la
Musique, Canal de l'Ourcq, and Canal
Saint-Denis can be found here.
- 20th
(20e). Cimetière de Père Lachaise,
Parc de Belleville, and quartiers Belleville and
Ménilmontant can be found here.
- La
Défense. Although it is not officially part of the
city, this skyscraper district on the western edge of town is on
many visitors must-see lists for its modern architecture and public
art.
Beyond central Paris, the outlying suburbs are called
Les
Banlieues. Schematically, those on the west of Paris (Neuilly,
Boulogne,
Saint Cloud, Levallois)
are wealthy residential communities. Those to the northeast are
poorer communities, often populated by immigrants.
Understand
History
Paris started life as the Celto-Roman settlement of
Lutetia on the Île de la Cité, the island in the Seine
currently occupied by the
Cathédral de Nôtre Dame. It
takes its present name from name of the dominant Gallo-Celtic tribe
in the region, the
Parisii. At least that's what the
Romans called them, when they showed up in 52 BCE and established
their city
Lutetia on the left bank of the Seine, in what
is now called the "Latin Quarter" in the
5th arrondissement.
The Romans held out here for as long as anywhere else in the
Western Empire, but by 508 CE they were gone, replaced by
Clovis of the Franks, who is considered by the
French to have been their first king. Clovis' descendants, aka the
Carolingians, held onto the expanded Lutetian state for nearly 500
years through Viking raids and other calamities, which finally
resulted in a forced move by most of the population back to the
islands which had been the centre of the original Celtic village.
The Capetian Duke of Paris was voted to succeed the last of the
Carolingians as King of France, insuring the city a premier
position in the medieval world. Over the next several centuries
Paris expanded onto the right bank into what was and is still
called
le Marais (The Marsh). Quite a few buildings from
this time can be seen in the
4th arrondissement.
The medieval period also witnessed the founding of the Sorbonne.
As the "University of Paris", it became one of the most important
centres for learning in Europe -- if not the whole world, for
several hundred years. Most of the institutions that still
constitute the University are found in the
5th, and
13th arrondissements.
In the late 18th century, there was a period of political and
social upheaval in France and Europe, during which the French
governmental structure, previously a monarchy with feudal
privileges for the aristocracy and Catholic clergy, underwent
radical change to forms based on Enlightenment principles of
nationalism, citizenship, and inalienable rights. Notable events
during and following the revolution were the storming of the
Bastille
4th arrondissements, and the
rise and fall of Napoleonic France. Out of the violent turmoil that
was the French Revolution, sparked by the still known
Passion
des Français, emerged the enlightened modern day France.
The Paris of today was built long after the Capetian and later
the Bourbon Kings of France made their mark on Paris with the
Louvre and the
Palais Royal, both in the
1st. In the 19th century,
Baron von Hausmann set about reconstructing the city, by adding the
long straight avenues and replacing many of the then existing
medieval houses, with grander and more uniform buildings.
New wonders arrived during La Belle Époque, as the
Parisian golden age of the late 19th century is known. Gustave
Eiffel's famous tower, the first metro lines, most of the parks,
and the streetlights (which are partly believed to have given the
city its epithet "the city of light") all come from this period.
Another source of the epithet comes from Ville Lumière, a
reference not only to the revolutionary electrical lighting system
implemented in the streets of Paris, but also to the prominence and
aura of Enlightenment the city gained in that era.
The twentieth century was hard on Paris, but thankfully not as
hard as it could have been. Hitler's order to burn the city was
thankfully ignored by the German General von Choltitz who was quite
possibly convinced by a Swedish diplomat that it would be better to
surrender and be remembered as the saviour of Paris, than to be
remembered as its destroyer. Following the war, the city recovered
quickly at first, but slowed in the 1970s and 1980s when Paris
began to experience some of the problems faced by big cities
everywhere: pollution, housing shortages, and occasionally failed
experiments in urban renewal.
During this time however, Paris enjoyed considerable growth as a
multi-cultural city, with new immigrants from all corners of the
world, especially La Francophonie, including most of
northern and western Africa as well as Vietnam and Laos. These
immigrants brought their foods and music, both of which are of
prime interest for many travellers. Today there are more
nationalities represented in Paris than even in New York (over
100).
Immigration and multi-culturalism continues in the 21st century
with a marked increase in the arrival of people from Latin America,
especially
Mexico,
Colombia, and
Brazil. In the late 1990s, it was
hard to find good Mexican food in Paris, whereas today there are
dozens of possibilities from lowly
taquerias in the outer
arrondissements to nice sit-down restaurants on the
boulevards. Meanwhile Latin music from salsa to samba is all the
rage (well, alongside Paris lounge electronica).
The 21st century has also seen vast improvements in the general
liveability of Paris, with the Mayor's office concentrating on
reducing pollution and improving facilities for soft forms of
transportation including a huge network of cycle paths, larger
pedestrian districts and newer faster metro lines. Visitors who
normally arrive car-less are the beneficiaries of these policies as
much as the Parisians themselves are.
Climate
Being located in Western Europe, Paris has a maritime climate
with cool winters and warm summers. The moderating effect of the
Atlantic Ocean helps to temper temperature extremes in much of
western Europe, including France. Even in January, the coldest
month, temperatures nearly always exceed the freezing point with an
average high of 6°C (43°F). Snow is not common in Paris, although
it will fall a few times a year. Most of Paris' precipitation comes
in the form of light rain year-round.
Summers in Paris are warm and pleasant, with an average high of
23°C (75°F) during the mid-summer months. Spring and fall are
normally cool and wet.
Average Temperatures in Paris
|
Jan |
Feb |
Mar |
Apr |
May |
Jun |
Jul |
Aug |
Sep |
Oct |
Nov |
Dec |
| High/low °C |
6/1 |
7/1 |
10/3 |
13/5 |
17/9 |
21/12 |
23/14 |
23/13 |
20/11 |
15/7 |
9/3 |
7/2 |
| High/low °F |
43/34 |
45/34 |
51/38 |
57/42 |
64/49 |
70/54 |
75/58 |
75/57 |
69/52 |
59/46 |
49/39 |
45/36 |
Get in
By plane
Paris is served by three international airports - for more
information, including arrival/departure times, check the official
sites.
Charles de Gaulle International
Airport (Roissy ICAO: LFPG, IATA: CDG)
[1]
The major hub airport to the north-east of the city. It's
notoriously confusing, so allow plenty of time for transfers. There
are three terminals: Terminal 1, Terminal 2 (which is huge and
subdivided into 2A through 2G), and Terminal 3 (formerly
T9). Terminal 1 and 3 are next to each other, whereas mass
Terminal 2 is in another building. The newest exception is terminal
2G which is a seperate building and is only reachable via
navette/bus in 10-15 min (bus leaves every 20 min) so allow extra
time. The free CDGVAL shuttle train connects the terminals
together. Everything at this airport is very expensive, especially
food. There are hardly any benches around and don't even consider
looking for an outlet to charge your cell phone or laptop. There
are no public shower facilities in the airport. Air France lounges
have such facilities, and the departure lounges have showers.
Lounge access is included for Air France business and first class
travelers. The members of the Air France and cooperating frequent
flyer programs may gain access with sufficient status. There is a
possibility that some lounges may grant access to travelers on
their flights for a fee. If you consider paying for access to the
lounge, inquire when checking in for your departure. If you must
have a shower and your frequent flyer status (and charm) are
insufficient to gain entry to a lounge, the airport hotels
generally have rooms available (in Sep 2009, the Sheraton in
Terminal 2 at the train station charged €155).
When you arrive at CDG, you should note what terminal you
arrived at (2A, 2D, etc.), because when you come back to the
airport to depart at the end of your trip, the RER subway train
makes two stops at CDG to cover the three terminals, but there are
few indications of which airlines are at which terminals. Have a
close look at your air ticket to figure out which terminal you are
departing from. Air France and associates leave from Terminal
2.
|
Say that again, please?
The RER B station named "Aeroport Charles de Gaulle 1" is a
misnomer - it actually serves Terminal 3, not Terminal 1. However,
the CDGVAL train links Terminals 1, 2, and 3.
|
.^ (Musée du Louvre/Les Halles) .- Luxury & Boutique Hotels in Paris | Tablet Hotels 28 January 2010 0:38 UTC www.tablethotels.com [Source type: News]
Adult tickets cost €8.50, and for children between
4-10 fare is €5.95 (as of Jul 2009) each and take around 35 minutes
to Gare du Nord, 45 minutes to Denfert-Rochereau, making this the
fastest and cheapest way to connect. Tickets can be purchased
either through green (sometimes blue) automated ticket vending
machines ("Billetterie Ile-de-France") or through the ticket office
serviced by transport authority personnel. The automated ticket
machines accept Euro coins of €2, €1 and 50, 20, 10, 5 cent
denominations and give change. Note that
Euro notes are not
accepted. There is one separate automated machine which
changes €20, €10 and €5 notes to €2 and €1 coins. However, due to
the high demand, the machine frequently runs out of coins. There
are currency exchange centres, but they explicitely state notes
will not be changed for coins. Alternatively, smart-chip credit
cards can be used on the ticket machines. But, some none-Eurpoean
credit cards are not accepted. Because of the above limitations,
purchasing tickets from the ticket office may seem to be an
attractive method. Although there are many counters, the queues can
be very long. Although it is a nuisance, the fastest way to get
some tickets is to take a lot of Euro coins with you.
Trains for Paris are leaving usually from platforms 11 and 12.
Look or signs saying "RER B" or "All trains go to Paris". When
using the ticket from and to the airport (as with tickets for the
RER commuter trains in general) you have to use it to enter
and to exit the train. Always keep the ticket
handy as the SNCF officials sometimes check for tickets, and if you
are without one you may be fined €40. This means that after you put
the ticket into the entry gate and are cleared to pass, you must
retrieve the ticket from the machine and keep it with you until you
leave the train system including any connections.
Alternatively, the
Roissybus service connects all
terminals directly to Opéra Garnier in central Paris, but it's
subject to traffic jams and rush hour, so it averages 60-90 min
even on a good day. Air France buses
[2] are offering two stops in
Paris (Porte Maillot, Montparnasse) from CDG with a 50-min ride. To
reach a specific address into the city, this shared shuttle service
[3] costs €19
per person and is available from CDG and ORY. There is also a TGV
station in T2 for high-speed connections, mostly towards
Lille and
Brussels, but there are also some trains that
head south to eg.
Rennes and
Nantes, bypassing Paris.
Orly International Airport (ICAO: LFPO, IATA: ORY)
[4]
This airport is southwest of the city, and served by a southern
branch of the RER-B line that heads in the direction of
Saint-Rémy-les-Chevreuse (not Robinson). This
older international airport is used mainly by Air France for
national lines, and other international carriers in Europe. Orly is
roughly 40 min from Paris via the OrlyBus, which
departs from Métro Denfert-Rochereau (ligne 6); the price is €6.
The private Jetbus service goes directly to Métro
Villejuif and is quite inexpensive. Another option is bus 285 that
takes you to the Métro Villejuif - Louis Aragon(Line 7) in 15 min,
but it stops on the way and is designed for commuters and not for
travellers. Bus 285 costs €1,5 and runs every 10 min, stopping at
airport level -1.
The Orlyval light rail connects the two
terminals to each other and to the RER B line at Antony. It runs
every 4-7 min and cost €9.85 for transfer to Paris, including
connections to central area metro stations. The RER B from Antony
runs through Paris to Aéroport Charles de Gaulle.
Beauvais (Aéroport de Paris
Beauvais Tillé ICAO: LFOB, IATA: BVA) [5]
This airport, a distance north of the city, is a smaller
regional airport that is used by some low-cost carriers such as
Ryanair (list flights
[6]) and
WizzAir. The airport operates a shuttle service connecting with the
Métro at
Porte Maillot station. Buses run even
during the wee hours of the morning (6AM). Buses leave 20 min after
each flight arrives, and a few hours before each flight departs.
Exact times can be found on the Beauvais Airport website. The
journey will take about an hour in good traffic conditions, and
costs €14 each way (as of Dec 2009).
Airline Shuttles
.^ Paris, Ile de France, France .- Luxury & Boutique Hotels in Paris | Tablet Hotels 28 January 2010 0:38 UTC www.tablethotels.com [Source type: News]
Note that if you have
connecting Air France flights that land and depart from different
airports, you would still generally need to fetch your luggage
after landing, catch either the Air France shuttle or a taxi
(readily available at all airports) to the other airport and
check-in again. This altogether could take up to 2 hours
particularly if traffic is at its worse. It is also common to lose
time during disembarking, as passengers often need to get off at
the tarmac and get on buses which will bring them to the terminal
building. Be sure to have sufficient time between flights to catch
your connection. Note that check-in counters usually close 30 min
before the flight departs, longer if flights are international
carriers.
If you arrive to CDG Airport at night you'll need a Noctilien
bus to get to the city center. The bus stops in all three terminals
(in terminal 2F it will be the second level in departure section -
it is very difficult to find, but it really exists). The bus leaves
every 30 min after 12:30AM (see
timetable [7]).
The buses you'll need are N121 and N120; the price is €7.
Paris is well connected to the rest of Europe by train. There is
no central station serving Paris, the six
different stations are not connected to each other. You will
probably want to know in advance at which station your train is
arriving, so as to better choose a hotel and plan for transport
within the city.
- Gare du Nord, (10th), Métro: Gare du
Nord - TGV trains to and from Belgium, the Netherlands, and Cologne, Germany (Thalys), and the United Kingdom
(Eurostar) and regular trains from Northern Europe.
- Gare d'Austerlitz, (13th), Métro: Gare
d'Austerlitz - regular trains to and from the center and
southwest of France (Orléans, Limoges, Toulouse the long way), Spain and Portugal and arrival of majority of the night
trains.
- Gare de l'Est, (10th), Métro: Gare de
l'Est - ICE/TGV to and from Luxembourg, Saarbrücken, Frankfurt, and [Stuttgart, Munich] in Germany and Basel and Zurich in Switzerland.
- Gare de Lyon, (12th), Métro: Gare de
Lyon - regular and TGV trains to and from Southern and eastern
France: French Alps,
Marseille, Lyon, Dijon, Switzerland: Geneva, Lausanne, Bern and Italy.
- Gare St Lazare, (8th) Métro: St-Lazare
- trains to and from Basse-Normandie, Haute-Normandie.
- Gare Montparnasse, (15th), Métro:
Montparnasse-Bienvenüe - TGV and regular trains to and from
the west and south-west of France (Brest, Rennes, Nantes, Bordeaux, Toulouse the fastest way and Spain).
The
SNCF (French national railway authority)
[8] operates practically
all trains within France excluding the Eurostar to St Pancras,
London
[9] and the Thalys
to Brussels and onward to the Netherlands
[10] and
Germany
[11]. There are also a few local lines
of high touristic interest which are privately owned. All SNCF,
Eurostar and Thalys tickets can be bought in railway stations, city
offices and travel agencies (no surcharge). The SNCF website allows
to book and buy tickets up to two months in advance. There are
significant discounts if you book weeks ahead. Reduced ticket
prices are different for each day and each train and can be used
only on the train the reservation is for. Surprisingly, round trip
tickets (
aller-retour) with a stay over Saturday night can
be cheaper than a single one-way ticket (
aller simple). A
very limited selection of last minute trips are published on the
SNCF website every Tuesday, with discounts of more than 50%.
There are a number of different kinds of high speed and normal
trains:
- TER.
Regional trains : TER are slower,
stopping at almost all stations. edit
- Corail Intercité. normal day (no special name) operate to and
from most cities in France and are usually your best bet for
destinations all over France. These are the trains you'll find
yourself on if you have a Eurail pass, and don't want to pay extra for
reservations. edit
- Corail
Téoz. As Corail Intercité but you
need a reservation. edit
- Corail Lunéa. . edit
- TGV,
[12]. The
world-famous French high-speed trains (Trains à Grande
Vitesse) run very frequently to the Southeast Nice(5-6h), Marseille (3h) and Avignon (2.5 h), the East Geneva (3h) or Lausanne, Switzerland and Dijon (1h15) , the Southwest Bordeaux (3h), the West Rennes (3h) and the North Lille (less than 1h). Eurostar to London (2h15)
and Thalys to Brussels (1h20) use almost identical trains.
edit
- Thalys, [13]. A
high-speed train service running daily to/from the Netherlands, Belgium and Germany - it can be a bit expensive compared to
normal trains. edit
- Intercity. Intercity trains leave for all parts of Europe, including overnight
trains to San
Sebastian in Spain, Porto and Lisbon in Portugal. edit
- Eurostar, [14]. The Eurostar service connects Paris with London directly and Brussels indirectly, as well
many other destinations indirectly through the various west
European rail services. Travel time between Paris and London St Pancras International
currently averages at 2h15min, following the opening of a new rail
link in late 2007. edit
- Eurolines, [15]. A transEuropean bus company that offers trips
to and from Paris. Generally offers prices significantly cheaper
than the train at the cost of much longer journeys. The Parisian
office is located at Bagnolet, adjacent to the Gallieni metro
station. edit
By car
Several autoroutes (expressway, motorway) link Paris
with the rest of France: A1 and A3 to the north, A5 and A6 to the
south, A4 to the east and A13 and A10 to the west. Not
surprisingly, traffic jams are significantly worse during French
school holidays.
The multi-lane highway around Paris, called the
Périphérique (BP), is probably preferable to driving
through the center. Another beltway nearing completion;
L'A86 (also A186 and A286) loops around Paris about 10 km
further out from the Périphérique. A third, incomplete
beltway is much further out and called La Francilienne
(N104).
It is advised not to drive in the Paris Metro Area. It is better
to drive to a suburban train station with a parking lot and then
use the train to continue your trip throughout Paris. Most of
Paris' roads were created long before the invention of automobiles.
Traffic inside the city tends to be heavy, especially at rush hour,
driving however may be rather easy and efficient in the evening;
parking is also difficult. Furthermore, the medieval nature of
parts of the city's street system makes it very confusing, and
traffic will almost never allow one to stop or slow down to get
one's bearings. If you are unfamiliar with the streets and still
insist on driving in the city, make sure you have a navigator in
the passenger seat with you.
Get around
By car
It is generally a bad idea to rent a car to visit Paris. Traffic
is very dense during the day, and parking tends to be difficult.
This is especially true in areas surrounding points of touristic
interest, since many of these are in areas designed long before
automobiles existed. A majority of Parisian households do not own
cars.
Driving may be an option for going to some sights in the suburbs
such as Vaux-le-Vicomte castle or the castle and city at
Fontainebleau, or
for starting to other places in France. You may prefer to rent from
a location not situated in Paris proper.
Traffic rules in Paris are basically the same as elsewhere in
France, with the exception of having to yield to incoming traffic
on roundabouts. However, driving in dense traffic in Paris and
suburbs during commute times, can be especially strenuous. Be
prepared for traffic jams, cars changing lanes at short notice, and
so on. Another issue is pedestrians, who tend to fearlessly jaywalk
more in Paris than in other French cities. Be prepared for
pedestrians crossing the street on red, and expect similar
adventurous behavior from cyclists. Remember that even if a
pedestrian or cyclist crossed on red, if you hit him, you (in fact,
your insurance) will have to bear civil responsibility for the
damages, and possibly prosecution for failing to control your
vehicle.
Paris has several beltway systems. There is a series of
boulevards named after Napoleonic-era generals (Boulevard
Masséna), and collectively referred to as boulevard des
maréchaux. These are normal wide avenues, with traffic lights.
Somewhat outside of this boulevard is the boulevard
périphérique, a freeway-style beltway. The périphérique
intérieur is the inner lanes (going clockwise), the
périphérique extérieur the outer lanes (going
counter-clockwise). Note that despite the looks, the
périphérique is not an autoroute: the speed limit
is 80 and, very unusually, incoming traffic has the right of way,
at least theoretically (presumably because, otherwise, nobody would
be able to enter during rush hour).
|
Directions
If you find yourself lost in the streets, a good idea is to find
the nearest Hotel and ask the concierge for directions. Most speak
English well. A simple "Bonjour Monsieur, parlez-vous
anglais?" should suffice.
|
Walking in Paris is one of the great pleasures of visiting the
City of Light. It is possible to cross the entire city in only a
few hours, but only if you can somehow keep yourself from stopping
at numerous cafés and shops. In fact within a few years walking
combined with biking and the Metro will be the only way to
get around the very centre of Paris: The Mayor's office has
announced plans to declare the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th
arrondissements almost totally car-free by 2012.
The smartest travellers take advantage of the walk-ability of
this city, and stay above ground as much as possible. A metro ride
of less than 2 stops is probably best avoided since walking will
take about the same amount of time and you'll be able to see more
of the city.
|
Paris walking 101
.^ Paris, Ile de France, France .- Luxury & Boutique Hotels in Paris | Tablet Hotels 28 January 2010 0:38 UTC www.tablethotels.com [Source type: News]
^ (Ile de la Cité/Ile St-Louis & Beaubourg) .- Luxury & Boutique Hotels in Paris | Tablet Hotels 28 January 2010 0:38 UTC www.tablethotels.com [Source type: News]
This walk takes about
1-2 hours without any stops. Start at the top of the Champs Elysees
(at the Arc de Triomphe) and begin walking down the Champs Elysees
towards Place ('square') de la Concorde.
- On the way towards the obelisk on the square, you'll see the
major stores and restaurants of Paris' most famous avenue.
- Once you've passed the main shopping area, you'll see the Petit
Palais and the Grand Palais to your right.
- At Place de la Concorde, you'll be able to see many of Paris'
major monuments around you. In front of you is the Tuileries,
behind you is the Champs-Elysees and Arc de Triomphe, behind you to
your right is the Tour Eiffel and Musee d'Orsay, and finally, to
your left is the Madeleine.
- Continue straight ahead and enter the Tuileries Gardens passing
by fountains, flowers, and lovers in the park.
- As you continue straight ahead, and out of the garden, you'll
see the pyramid entrance to the Louvre directly in front of
you.
- With the pyramid directly in front of you, and the Tuileries
directly behind you, turn to your right and walk towards the
Seine.
- Now you can walk along the Seine (eastwards) until you reach
Pont Neuf. Cross Pont Neuf and walk through the Latin Quarter,
cross the river again to reach Notre Dame cathedral on Ile de la
Cité.
|
You may have heard of the hazard of walking into dog droppings
in Paris. The problem has receded over the last decades, partially
due to fines as high as €180 and an extensive street cleaning
operations. However you will still occasionally encounter one of
these little packages. Eventually with a little practice you'll be
able to avoid them without effort while looking every way but down,
though you may find yourself dancing around fallen leaves in the
autumn (some are just the right size and colour).
You will also notice that most of the older Parisian streets
(especially the ones in the Quartier Latin) are
particularly narrow with little or no room to even fit a car, so
the sidewalks on these roads are extremely tiny. Although this
means you would opt to walk on the road, be wary as Parisian
drivers, taxi drivers in particular, take no heed in the narrowness
of the road, and will drive down it just as fast as if they were
driving along a major road.
It's always fun to experience the city by foot, and there are
numerous walking tours around Paris, whether self guided (with the
help of a guidebook or online guide) or with a touring guide
(booked through your travel agency or hotel). The city is best
explored by foot, and some of the most marvelous memories you will
have of Paris is walking through secret found places.
By métro
Paris has an excellent underground train system, known as the
Métro (short for Chemin de Fer Métropolitain i.e.
Metropolitan Railways). Although you will probably take the RER
subway train from the airport to Paris, don't be confused: RER
isn't the name for "French subway train", and only a few large
stations service the RER network of trains. You'll want to look for
the Métro stations, marked with a large "M" sign.
There are 16 Métro lines (lignes) (1-14, 3bis and 7bis)
on which trains travel all day at intervals of a few minutes
between 5AM and 12:30AM (Saturday night/Sunday morning: 1:30AM),
stopping at all stations on the line. Times for trains can be seen
on an electronic scrollboard above the platform. Line 14, which is
fully automated, is called the Méteor. Scheduled times for
first and last trains are posted in each station on the centre
sign. Generally, except for early and late hours, travellers should
not worry about specific Metro train times; just get to your
station and take the next train which will likely be in 5-10
min.
The lines are named according to the names of their terminal
stations (those at the end of the line). If you ask the locals
about directions they will answer something like : take line
number n toward "end station 1", change at "station", take
the line nn toward "end station 2" etc. The lines are also
colour-coded.
In addition there are 5 train lines called RER A, B, C, D, E.
RER trains run at intervals of about 6-7 min, and stop at every
station
within Paris. Although a regular subway
ticket can be used within Paris (Zone 1), it is necessary to pass
the ticket through the turnstile when passing between the subway
and the RER lines, as the two systems are separate networks. This
ticket is necessary to both
enter and
exit the
RER networks, as the RER trains travel on to the Parisian suburbs,
outside the zone where a regular subway ticket can be used. Beware
that travelling outside the city centre without a valid RER ticket
will get you fined, and the packs of inspectors who roam the system
show no mercy to tourists pleading ignorance. In particular, CDG
airport is
not within the city, and you'll need to
purchase a more expensive RER ticket to get there (see
Get in).
In addition to RER, there are many suburban train lines
departing from the main train stations. One line of interest is the
one from Gare Montparnasse to Versailles-Chantiers, a quick way to
go to Versailles castle (covered by a ticket with at least Zones
1-4 validity). The alternative is to use RER C to Versailles Rive
Gauche. Do not use RER C to Versailles chantiers; this
will do a very long loop in the southern suburbs before reaching
Versailles.
For travel outside of the Paris zone, the train arrival times
are shown on a monitor hanging from the ceiling inside the RER
station above the platform. Information about the stops to be made
by the next incoming train is presented on a separate board also
hanging from the ceiling. It is important to check this board
before boarding the train, as not all trains make stops at all
stations on a given line. Four letter codes (VERA, TOPU,...) are
used for the RER and suburban trains. The first letter indicates
the destination of the train, the others may have other meanings or
have been chosen to make it easily memorized. You can look up what
these codes mean on information panels in the station, but the
easiest and fastest way is often to check the board hanging from
the ceiling.
RATP
[16] is
responsible for public transport including metro, buses, and some
of the high speed inter-urban trains (RER). The rest of the RER is
operated by SNCF. However, both companies take the same tickets, so
the difference is of little interest for most people except in case
of strikes (because RATP may strike while SNCF does not, or the
other way round). Current fares can be found at their website.
Basically, as you move further from Paris (ie into higher zones),
tickets get more expensive.
For the subway, a single ticket (ticket t+) costs €1.60;
however, it is generally not advisable to buy tickets by the unit
and to rather purchase a carnet of ten tickets, which can
be bought for €11.40 at any station, that will bring the price per
ticket down to €1.14. Tickets named 'Tarif réduit' may be purchased
for children under the age of 10 but only in a carnet of 10 for
€5.70. Both tickets are valid for unlimited metro and RER or bus
and tram transfers during one hour. RER + Metro and Bus + Tram are
two separate systems, although they use the same tickets. This
means you have to use a new ticket if you transfer from bus to
metro or from metro to bus. Tickets do not expire.
A 1-day ticket, a weekly pass, and a monthly pass are also
available. The price varies according to the zones for which the
ticket can be used. The cheapest 1-day ticket called
Mobilis [17],
is valid for zones 1-2, with a price of €5.90. Once bought, it is
necessary to write in the spaces provided on the ticket: 1) the
date the ticket is being used
in European notation of
day/month/year (Valable le), 2) the last name (Nom), and
3) and the first name (Prénom). Unfortunately, this ticket is not
valid for use for travel to/from Charles de Gaulle airport. Unless
you plan to make many trips in one day, the
carnet of ten
tickets (for €1.14 per trip) will still be a much better cost than
a 1-day ticket. But in considering your options, consider the price
for all members of your group/family, including children, which
days you are travelling on, and in which zones you will be
travelling.
For travellers under the age of 26, there is a special ticket
(Jeunes 26) that you can purchase for use on the weekends or
holidays. The price varies depending on the number of zones you
wish to cover (Zones 1-3 is €3.30 and Zones 1-5 is €6.60; there are
other zone combinations available too) and the ticket is good for
one day of unlimited usage of the metro, RER, bus, and trams.
If you're staying a bit longer, the weekly and monthly passes
are called Carte Orange (1 week pass, €17.20 for Paris and inner
suburbs), and the monthly Carte Orange Mensuelle (1 month pass).
Note that an Hebdomadaire (eb-DOH-ma-DAYR) starts
on Mondays and a Mensuelle on the first of the month. The Carte
Orange is non-transferrable, and therefore requires the user to
provide information on the pass after the sale. Since 2008, the
Carte Orange is sold as refill of a "Navigo Découverte" no contact
pass. This pass is sold for €5. You must write your last name
(nom), your first name (prénom) and stick your photo on the
nominative card. After, you have to refill your pass with a
Carte Orange Hebdomadaire (1 week pass), or a Carte
Orange Mensuelle (1 month pass). You have to choose at least
two of the contiguous "zones" : Paris is first the zone 1, La
Défense is in the third zone, Versailles in the fourth,...
Everything related to a "Navigo" pass is in purple (eg. the target
for the pass in the turnstiles).
Although not as good a deal for adults in most cases as the
Mobilis or Carte Orange, there are also 1-5 day tourist passes,
called Paris Visite available, which are a bargain for kids of ages
4-11, starting at €4.40 per day for travel within zones 1-3.
Keep your métro ticket or pass with you at all times, you may be
checked or "controlled". You will be cited and forced to pay on the
spot. The most likely spots for controls are just behind the
turnstiles at big Métro stations or during métro line changes
"correspondances". It is rather uncommon for
"controleurs" to check tickets on trains. RATP agents may
be present in the metro stations even on Sunday night.
Métro stations have both ticket windows and automatic vending
machines. The majority of automatic vending machines take
only coins or European credit cards with a pin-encoded
chip on the front. Therefore, to use either Euro bills or a
non-European credit card with a magnetic stripe, it is necessary to
make the purchase from the ticket window. Be advised too that some
ticket vending machines do not give change, so unless you see
"change returned" (or French equivalent), use exact change or go to
the ticket window. If you look at the vending machines closely, you
may find one in the group that takes Euro bills and will give
change.
Some larger stations have secondary entrances where there is no
ticket booth. These are labelled voyageurs avec billets
("passengers with tickets").
|
Avoid suburban charges
If you have any tickets or Carte Orange for zone 1-2 ("inside"
Paris area: the lower rate) and want go to La Defense from
Chatelet, you have to take the Metro (Line 1). You can take the RER
A (and save a few minutes) but you have to pay an additional fare,
because even though you arrive at the same station, the RER exit is
supposed to be outside of Paris! On the other hand, métro fares are
the same, even in the suburbs. So be careful, there are usually a
lot of ticket examiners present when you get off the RER A.
|
Each station displays a detailed map of the surrounding area
with a street list and the location of buildings (monuments,
schools, places of worship etc) as well as exits for that
particular metro. Maps are located on the platform if the station
has several exits or near the exit if there is only one.
When the train arrives, the doors may not open automatically. In
such a case, there are handles located both inside and outside the
train which you have to push, or unlatch in order to open the
door.
By boat
There are several excellent boat services which makes use of the
Seine. As well as providing easy, cheap transport to much of
central Paris, excellent photo opportunities abound. You can buy a
day or 3 day ticket and hop on and off the boat as needed. The
boats take a circular route from the Eiffel Tower, down past the
Louvre, Notre Dame, botanical gardens then back up the other bank
past Musee D'orsay. Batobus
[18] offers a regular shuttle
service between the main touristic sights (closed in January);
other companies such as the famous Bateaux Mouches
[19] offer sightseeing
cruises.
There is also a river shuttle service called Voguéo
[20] on the eastern part of the
Seine, between Gare d'Austerlitz and Maison Alfort (in the
suburbs). It's not meant for tourists, but as a convenient service
for Parisians.
.^ Only the best of luxury and boutique hotels in France Paris become Tablet Hotels - the most reliable seal of approval in the hotel industry.- Luxury & Boutique Hotels in Paris | Tablet Hotels 28 January 2010 0:38 UTC www.tablethotels.com [Source type: News]
More importantly, it's free if you have a Carte Orange
(weekly or monthly public transport pass). Otherwise a ticket
bought onboard costs €3 which can be considered expensive. The last
stop is in zone 3 so normally you should not be able to go that far
with a Carte Orange that covers zones 1&2, but since June 2009
it's free as they are still experimenting the system. There are
boats every 15 min and the whole trip lasts about 30 min. If you
want to do a round-trip and don't have a Carte Orange, you will
have to buy a second ticket.
On Skates
Paris is the mecca of city skating. This is due to the large,
smooth surfaces offered by both the pavements and the roads.
Skating on the pavement is legal all around Central Paris (zone 1)
and its suburbs (zones 2+). See our Do section
below for more information.
By bicycle
Renting a bike is a very good alternative over driving or using
public transport. Riding a bike anywhere in the city is far safer
for the moderately experienced cyclists than almost any town or
city in the United States. The French are very cognizant of
cyclists, almost to a point of reverence. A few years ago Paris
wasn't the easiest place to get around by bike. That however has
changed dramatically in recent years, starting perhaps with a
lengthy bus and traffic jam. The city government has taken a number
of steps in strong support of improving the safety and efficiency
of the urban cyclist as well, in establishing some separated bike
lanes, but even more important a policy of allowing cyclists to
share the ample bus lanes on most major boulevards. Paris also has
many riversides which are perfect for cycling. The Paris bike
network now counts over 150 km of either unique or shared lanes for
the cyclist. In addition, the narrower, medieval side streets of
the central arrondissements make for rather scenic and leisurely
cycling, especially during off-hours of the day when traffic is
lighter. Do remember to bring a good map, since there is no grid
plan to speak of and almost all of the smaller streets are
one-way.
Note that, while the streets of Paris are generally fairly easy
on novice cyclists, there are some streets in the city that should
be avoided by those who do not have sufficient urban cycling
experience. 'Rue de Rivoli', 'Place de la Bastille', and 'Place de
la Nation' are particularly hairy, especially during weekdays and
the Saturday evening rush, and should not be navigated by anyone
not confident in their ability to cycle in heavy traffic. 'Avenue
des Champs-Elysées', 'Place de l'Étoile', and 'Voie Georges
Pompidou' (the lower-level express lanes along the banks of the
Seine) should be avoided at all times.
You can find an excellent map of the bike network called
Plan des Itinéraires cyclables (download here:
[21]) at the information center in the
Hôtel de
Ville.
There are two different bike rental programs in Paris:
- Vélib, ☎ +33 1 30 79 79
30, [22]. In July 2007 the municipality of Paris
introduced the Vélib program (vélo
Liberté or Freedom Bikes) by which it is possible to rent a
bike for a very modest price. Numerous stations are to be found
around the city (at major landmarks and metro stations, basically
every 300m). With a credit card with a "puce" smart-chip (that
means that American Visa and Mastercard cards do not work, however
American Express cards should work even though they don't have a
chip), you can subscribe for 1 day (€1) or 7 days (€5) after paying
a security on the bicycle (to pay for it if it isn't returned)
& then get a bike; the first 30 min are free, following 30 min
costs €1, following 30 min cost €2, etc. to avoid long rentals...
so the game is to get to another station in 25 min and get another
bicycle. This rental system has been designed to allow you to "pick
& drop" a bike, not rent the same one all day long. Try
it ! If your card works in the machines it's a great way to
get around! The bicycles are wonderful cruiser bikes, with a front
basket to put a purse or bag. If the saddle is turned around, it
most probably means the bike is out of order (it's a convention
among Velib users, so do the same if you notice your Velib has
problems). €1 per day. edit
In addition to operating a number of bike rental buses, the RATP
has some permanent locations, including:
- Roue Libre, Les Halles, 1 passage
Mondétour (facing 120
rue Rambuteau, Métro: Les Halles), ☎ +33 1
04 41 53 49. Bikes can be
rented for one weekend (€25), M-F (€20), a working day (€9), or one
day on the weekend (€14). Roue Libre also has a location at the
Bastille which is open during the summer months edit
Another possibility for renting a bicycle is Bike About
Tours or Fat Tire bike tours. See the
listings under Do below.
By bus
Since the Métro is primarily structured around a "hub and spoke"
model, there are some journeys for which it can be quite
inefficient, and in these cases it is worth seeing if a direct bus
route exists, despite the complexity of the bus network. A bus ride
is also interesting if you want to see more of the city. The
Parisian bus system is quite tourist-friendly. It uses the same
single-ride tickets and Carte Orange as the Métro, and electronic
displays inside each bus tell riders its current position and what
stops remain, eliminating a lot of confusion.
These same payment devices are also valid in the
Noctilien, the night bus. Night buses run regularly
through the central hub at Chatelet to outlying areas of greater
Paris. There is also a circle line connecting the main train
stations. It pays to know one's Noctilien route ahead of time in
case one misses the last Métro home. Women travellers should
probably avoid taking the Noctilien on their own to destinations
outside Paris.
Another option for travelers who want to see the sights of Paris
without a stop on every street corner is the Paris
L’Opentour Bus. An open topped double decker bus that
supplies headsets with the most up to date information on the
attractions in Paris. Your ticket is good for 4 routes ranging in
time from 1-2 hours. Get off when you want, stay as long as you
need, get back on the bus and head for another site. You can
purchase tickets at the bus stop. A 1 day pass is €25 for adults
and €15 for children. A two day pass is €32 for adults or €15 for
children.
By taxi
Taxis are comparatively cheap especially at night when there are
no traffic jams to be expected. There are not as many as one would
expect, and sometimes finding a taxi can be challenging. In the
daytime, it is not always a good idea to take a taxi, as walking or
taking the metro (See: Métro) will often be faster. If you
know you will need one to get to the airport, or to a meeting, it
is wise to book ahead by phone (see below).
|
To stop a taxi...
... watch the sign on the roof: if the white sign is lit, the
cab is on duty and available, if the white sign is off and a
colored light is lit under it (blue, orange), it's on duty
and busy, if the white sign is off and no coloured light
is on, the taxi is off duty.
|
Remember if a taxi is near a 'taxi station',
they're not supposed to pick you up except at the station
where there may be people waiting for a taxi. Taxi stations are
usually near train stations, big hotels, hospitals, large
crossings.
There are a number of services by which you can call for taxis
or make a reservation in advance:
- Taxis de France, [23]. .
- Taxi-Paris, ☎ +33 6
0760 4914, [24].^ Paris, Ile de France, France .
- Luxury & Boutique Hotels in Paris | Tablet Hotels 28 January 2010 0:38 UTC www.tablethotels.com [Source type: News]
edit
- Shuttle Taxi, [25]. edit
- Taxis
Bleus, [26]. edit
As in many other cities a taxi can be difficult to stop; you may
have to try several times. When you do get a taxi to stop, the
driver will usually roll down his window to ask you where you want
to go. If the driver can't (or doesn't want to) go where you want,
he might tell you that he's near the end of his work day &
can't possibly get you where you want before he has to go
off-duty.
There is a €5.50 minimum on all taxi rides, mandated by city
law, but the meter does not show this amount, which can result in
being asked to pay more than the metered amount on short rides.
Frequently the taxi driver will not want to drive you all the way
to the doorstep, but will prefer to let you out a block or so away
if there are one or more one-way streets to contend with. Try to
look at this as a cost-savings rather than an inconvenience. You
should pay while still seated in the cab as in New York and
not through the front window London style.
The driver will not let you sit in the front seat (unless there
are 3 or 4 of you, which is a rare case usually expedited by more
money). Taxi-drivers come in all types, some nice, some rude, some
wanting to chat, some not. Smoking in taxis is generally not
allowed, however it might be that the taxi driver himself wants a
cigarette in which case the rule might become flexible.
Many drivers prefer that you avoid using your cellphone during
the ride; if you do have to, make an apologizing gesture
& sound, and do make a short call.
- A tip is included in the fare price; If you're especially
satisfied with the service, you can give something (basically 10%),
but you don't have to.
- There is an extra charge for baggage handling.
If for any reason you wish to file a complaint about a Paris
taxi, take note of the taxi's number on the sticker on the left
hand backseat window.
Also if you take a taxi to the Charles de Gaulle airport be
prepared to pay 70 euros or more because there is often heavy
traffic. If there isn't traffic it won't be expensive, but that is
rare. A bus is cheaper.
Beware of illegal taxis (see the 'Stay Safe' section).
Livery or Black Car or Limos- Known as car
services or livery cabs, these cars may only be called by phone,
are flat rate rather than metered (ask for the fare before
getting in), and are not allowed to cruise the street or
airports for fares. There are two types of licence: the "Grande
Remise" that allows the car & driver to pick-up & drop-off
passengers anywhere in France, and the "carte verte" that allows
pick-up & drop-off in the department or region where the
company is based. The Grande Remise cars have a GR on their front
plate. They provide more service than a normal cab
Talk
In the parts of the city that tourists frequent the most (Tour
Eiffel, Le Louvre, Champs-Elysées), the shopkeepers, information
booth attendants, and other workers are likely to answer you in
English, even if your French is advanced. These workers tend to
deal with thousands of foreign-speaking tourists, and responding in
English is often faster than repeating themselves in French. This
is not the case for the rest of the city.
|
Reading up
.^ Although the public paid for it, the record is now owned by the Attorney General who would not even release copies of parts of the document for research and public interest purposes.
|
For most Parisians, English is something they had to study in
school, and thus seems a bit of a chore. People helping you out in
English are making an extra effort, sometimes a considerable one.
Younger people are much more likely to be fluent in English than
older people. If it's your first time in France you will have some
problems understanding what people are saying (even with prior
education in French). Unlike most language education tapes, real
French people often speak fast, use slang, and swallow some
letters.
When attempting to speak French, do not be offended if people
ask you to repeat, or seem not to understand you, as they are not
acting out of snobbery. Keep your sense of humour, and if
necessary, write down phrases or place names. And remember to speak
slowly and clearly. Unless you have an advanced level and can at
least sort of understand French movies, you should also assume that
it will be difficult for people to understand what you are saying
(imagine someone speaking English to you in an indiscernible
accent, it's all the same).
When in need of directions what you should do is this: find a
younger person, or a person reading some book or magazine in
English, who is obviously not in a hurry; say "hello" or
"bonjour"; start by asking if the person speaks English,
"Parlez-vous anglais?" (Par-LAY voo On-Glay?) even if he/she's
reading something in English, speak slowly and clearly; write down
place names if necessary. Smile a lot. Also, carry a map
(preferably Paris par Arrondissement); given the
complexity of Paris streets it is difficult to explain how to find
any particular address in any language, no matter how well you
speak it. If anything, the person may have an idea as to the place
you are looking for, but may not know exactly where it may be, so
the map always helps.
On the other hand you will probably get the cold shoulder if you
stop a random person in the métro (like, say, some middle-aged
hurried person who has a train to take), fail to greet them and say
"where is place X or street Y".
Now if you do speak French, remember two magic
phrases : "Excusez-moi de vous déranger" [es-KOO-zay
mwa duh voo DAY-ranj-AY] ("Sorry to bother you") and "Pourriez-vous
m'aider?" ("Could you help me?") — use them liberally - especially
in shops; they will work wonders.
See
One of the best value and most convenient ways to see the sights
of Paris is with the
Paris Museum Pass (previously known
as
Carte Musées et Monuments)
[27], a
pre-paid entry card that allows entry into over 70 museums and
monuments around Paris and comes in 2-day (€30), 4-day (€45) and
6-day (€60) denominations (prices as of Aug 2008). Note these are
consecutive days. The card allows you to jump otherwise
sometimes lengthy queues and is available from participating
museums, tourist offices, Fnac branches and all the main Métro and
RER train stations. You will still need to pay to enter most
special exhibitions. For best results and to avoid having to wait
in the first long queue to purchase the Museum Pass, stop to
purchase your pass at one of the smaller museums or sites covered,
or at one of the non-museum purchase points.
[28] The day you purchase the pass does not have to count as
one of the days; you specify on the pass the first date of use, and
the days covered are consecutive after that.
[29]
Do not write your start date until you are certain you will use the
pass that day. Be careful to use the European date style as
indicated on the card (day/month/year).
Note that most museums and galleries are closed on either Monday
or Tuesday - check ahead to avoid disappointment! - and most ticket
counters close 30-45 min before final closing. Louvre museum is
closed on Tuesdays while Orsay museum is closed on Mondays, good to
know when setting visit plans.
Also consider the
ParisPass [30] also a pre paid entry
card + queue jumping to 60 attractions including The Louvre, The
Arc de Triomphe, as well as a river cruise and allows free metro
& public transport travel. Also note a cheaper alternative with
this new combined pass available since September 2008 is the
Paris ComboPass®
[31], which comes in Lite/Premium versions.
All national museums are open free of charge on the first Sunday
of the month; note, however, that this may mean long lines and
crowded exhibits. Keep away from Paris during Easter week. It's
really crowded. People have to queue up at the Eiffel tower for
several hours. Entry to the permanent exhibitions at city-run
museums is free at all times (admission is charged for temporary
exhibitions).
These listings are just some highlights of
things that you really should see if you can during your visit to
Paris. The complete listings are found on each
individual district page (follow the link in parenthesis).
Good listings of almost everything to do in Paris can be found
in 'Pariscope' or 'Officiel des spectacles', weekly magazines
listing all concerts, art exhibitions, films, stage plays and
museums. Available from all kiosks.
- Arc de Triomphe (8th)— The Arc de Triomphe
still exudes a certain grandeur despite the crowds of tourists and
the tacky souvenir shops.
- Arènes de Lutece (5th)— Built during the 1st and
2nd centuries, this amphitheater could seat up to 17,000 people,
hosting gladiator fights as well as less bloody entertainment.
- Assemblée Nationale (7th)— Seats the French
Parliament, and was designed by Giardini and Gabriel in 1728.
- Catacombs (14th)— Used to store the
exhumed bones from the overflowing Paris cemetery.
- Chateau de Versailles (Versailles)— France's most exquisite
chateau, on the outskirts of the city. .
- The Eiffel Tower (Tour Eiffel) (7th)— No other monument that
better symbolizes Paris.
- Grand Arche de la Défense (La
Défense)— A modern office-building variant of the Arc de
Triomphe.^ (Ile de la Cité/Ile St-Louis & Beaubourg) .
- Luxury & Boutique Hotels in Paris | Tablet Hotels 28 January 2010 0:38 UTC www.tablethotels.com [Source type: News]
Has a viewing platform.
- Notre Dame Cathedral (4th)— Impressive Gothic
cathedral that was the inspiration for Victor Hugo's novel The
Hunchback of Notre Dame.
- Opera Garnier (9th)— Masterpiece of theatre
architecture of the 19th century built by Charles Garnier and
inaugurated in 1875 housing the Paris Opera since it was founded by
Louis XIV.
- Pantheon (5th)— Underneath, the final
resting place for the great heroes of the French Republic including
Voltaire, Victor Hugo, and Marie Currie; above, a marvellous view
of the city.
- Père-Lachaise Cemetery (20th)— See the grave of Jim
Morrison amongst many others.
- Sacré Coeur (18th)— A church perched on
top of the highest point in Paris. Behind the church is the
artists' area, in front are spectacular views of the whole
city.
- Sainte Chapelle (1st)— Far more beautiful than
the famous, but gloomy, Notre Dame.
- Le Musée de l'AP-HP, (5th)— Paris's medical
history.
- Le Musee des Arts Decoratifs, (1st)— Showcasing eight
centuries of French savoir faire.
- Carnavalet (3rd)— Museum of Paris history;
exhibitions are permanent and free.
- Centre Georges Pompidou , (4th)— The great museum of
modern art, the building an attraction in itself.
- Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie - La
Villette, (19th)— Science museum for
adults and children.
- Cluny, (5th)— Paris's medieval museum,
housed in a part Roman, part medieval building.
l'Eglise du Dome, church of Les Invalides, site of Napoleon's
tomb
- Delacroix— National museum housed in the home
of painter Eugene Delacroix.
- Jacquemart-Andre Museum , (8th)— Private collection of
French, Italian, Dutch masterpieces in a typical XIXth century
mansion.
- Picasso Museum, (3rd)— Contains the master's
own collections.
- Les Invalides, (7th)— Museum of arms and armor
from the Middle Ages to today. Also contains the tombs of Napoleon
Bonaparte and other French military figures.
- The Louvre, (1st)— One of the finest
museums in the world of art, art-history, and culture. Home of the
Mona Lisa.
- Musée de l'Orangerie, (1st)— [Jardin des Tuileries]
Impressionist and post-Impressionist paintings by Paul Cézanne,
Henri Matisse, Amedeo Modigliani, Claude Monet, Pablo Picasso,
Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Henri Rousseau, Chaim Soutine, Alfred
Sisley.
- Musée d'Orsay, (7th)— Home to the great
artists of the 19th century (1848-1914). Incredible collection of
Impressionist art housed in an old railway station. Every room you
go into seems to have another incredibly popular painting.
Degas'ballerinas, Monet's waterlillies, etc.
- Musée Marmottan-Monet [32] (16th)[rue Louis Boilly]—
Collection of works by Claude Monet, Berthe Morisot, Edgar Degas,
Édouard Manet and Pierre-Auguste Renoir. "Impression Soleil Levant"
by Monet is on display in this museum.
- Musée National de la Marine, (16th)— From times of
exploration to modern day vessels. Interesting but primarily in
French.
- Rodin Museum, (7th)— His personal collection
and archives, in a charming hotel and sprawling garden.
- Musée en Herbe (1st and 16th)— An art museum just for
kids with hands-on exhibitions and workshops.
Do
Events
It seems like there's almost always something happening in
Paris, with the possible exceptions of the school holidays in
August and February, when about half of Parisians are to be found
not in Paris, but in the Alps or the South of France respectively.
The busiest season is probably the fall, from a week or so after
la rentrée scolaire or "back to school" to around
Noël (Christmas) theatres, cinemas and concert halls book
their fullest schedule of the year.
Even so, there are a couple of annual events in the winter,
starting with a furniture and interior decorating trade fair called
Maison & Object [33] in January.
In February
le nouvel an chinois (
Chinese New
Year) is celebrated in Paris as it is in every city with a
significant Chinese population. There are parades in the 3rd and
4th arrondissements and especially in Chinatown in the 13th south
of Place d'Italie. Also in February is the
Six Nations
Rugby Tournament [34] which brings together
France, England, Ireland, Scotland, Wales and Italy.
The first of two Fashion weeks occurs in March: Spring
Fashion Week, giving designers a platform to present
women’s prêt-à-porter (ready to wear) collections for the
following winter.
The
French Tennis Open [35] in which the world’s
top players battle it out on a clay court runs during two weeks
starting on the last Sunday in May. By the time its done in June, a
whole range of festivities start up.
Rendez-vous au
Jardin is an open house for many Parisian gardens, giving
you a chance to meet real Parisian gardeners and see their
creations. The
Fête de la Musique [36] celebrates the
summer solstice (21st June) with this city-wide free musical
knees-up. Finally on the 30th of June is the
Gay
Pride [37]
parade, featuring probably the most sincere participation by the
mayor's office of any such parade on the globe.
The French national holiday Bastille Day on the
14th of July celebrates the storming of the infamous Bastille
during the French Revolution. Paris hosts several spectacular
events that day of which the best known is the Bastille
Parade which is held on the Champs-Élysées at 10AM and
broadcast to pretty much the rest of Europe by television. The
entire street will be crowded with spectators so arrive early. The
Bastille Day Fireworks is an exceptional treat for
travelers lucky enough to be in town on Bastille Day. The Office du
Tourisme et des Congress de Paris recommends gathering in or around
the champs du Mars, the gardens of the Eiffel Tower.
Also in July,
Cinema en Plein Air [38] is the annual outdoor
cinema event that takes place at the Parc de la Villette, in the
9th on Europe’s largest
inflatable screen. For most of the months of July and August, parts
of both banks of the Seine are converted from expressway into an
artificial beach for
Paris Plage [39]. Also in July the cycling
race
le Tour de France both starts and ends in
Paris. Its route varies annually, however it always finishes on the
last Sunday of July under the Arc de Triomphe.
On the last full weekend in August, a world-class music festival
Rock en Seine [40] draws international
rock and pop stars to barges on the Seine near moored off of the
8th.
During mid-September DJs and (usually young) fans from across
Europe converge on Paris for five or six days of dancing etc.
culminating in the
Techno parade - a parade whose
route traces roughly from
Pl. de Bastille to the
Sorbonne, and around the same time the festival
Jazz à la Villette [41] brings some of the
biggest names in contemporary jazz from around the world.
The
Nuit Blanche [42]
transforms most of central Paris into a moonlit theme-park for an
artsy all-nighter on the first Saturday of October, and
Fashion Week [43] returns shortly
thereafter showing off Women’s
Prêt-à-Porter collections
for the following summer; as we've noted winter collections are
presented in March.
The third Thursday in November marks the release of
Le
Beaujolais Nouveau [44] and the
beginning of the Christmas season. This evening, the Christmas
lights are lit in a ceremony on the
Champs-Élysées, often
in the presence of hundreds (if not thousands) of people and many
dignitaries, including the president of France.
Unfortunately, there are no comprehensive event guides covering
concerts, clubs, movies or special events. For theater, movies and
exhibitions pick up the 'Pariscope' and 'L'officiel du Spectacle',
available at newstands for €0.40. For (especially smaller,
alternative) concerts pick up LYLO, a small, free booklet available
in some bars and at FNAC. There is not any userfriendly online
version of these guides. Check out
La Societe du
Spectacle [45] which will
list concerts and clubs (to be launched in february 2009).
- Cafe Philo in English, Cafe de Flore, 172, Blvd
St-Germain, 75006, [46]. Cafe Philo in English meets on the first
Wednesday of each month upstairs at the famous Cafe de Flore.
Everyone is invited. You don't have to be knowledgeable about
philosophy. Meetings begin with a two round voting process to
determine a topic. The topic is discussed for two hours.
Free. edit
Movies
The Cinémas of Paris are (or at least should be) the
envy of the movie-going world. Of course, like anywhere else you
can see big budget first-run films from France and elsewhere. That
though, is just the start. During any given week there are at least
half-a-dozen film festivals going on, at which you can see the
entire works of a given actor or director. Meanwhile there are some
older cult films like say, What's new Pussycat or
Casino Royal which you can enjoy pretty much any day you
wish.
Many non-French movies are subtitled (called "version
originale" "VO" or "VOstfr" as opposed to "VF" for version
francaise).
There are any number of ways to find out what's playing, but the
most commonly used guide is Pariscope, which you can find
at newstands for €0.40. Meanwhile there are innumerable online
guides which have information on "every" cinema in Paris.
Be aware that most of the movies shown in France are dubbed to
French. Some shows may have French subtitles. However, most of the
movies shown in Paris are shown in original version with French
subtitles.
Learn
It should go without saying that Paris is a good place to learn
French.
- Alliance Francaise. One of the world's largest schools of French
language, the Paris Alliance Française has a wide variety of
courses for a visitor to choose from. edit
- Université Paris IV. Offers 'scholastic' as well as 'university'
courses for foreigners in French language and culture, which start
at various times of year. edit
Paris is the seat of other places to learn about a variety of
topics.
- The American Library in Paris, (5 minutes walking distance from the Eiffel
Tower), [47]. A great place to visit in Paris is the American
Library, this is a non-profit institution entirely dependent on
donations in order to keep its doors open. Visitors can purchase a
day pass or other short term memberships. .^ In order to make sure that you see the exact rate that you will be charged for an accommodation for more than 2 adults, it is best to double-check by emailing us at customer service with your dates and the ages of your children.
- Luxury & Boutique Hotels in Paris | Tablet Hotels 28 January 2010 0:38 UTC www.tablethotels.com [Source type: News]
It has excellent
books, recent American magazines and the occasional celebrity
patron. edit
Work
Work in Paris, especially for non-EU citizens entails a very
long and arduous process. If you opt for unreported work, such as
babysitting, you need not fret about going through the process to
obtain a Carte de séjour, i.e., a formal vistor's identify
card. However, if you do choose a change in location, it is
advisable to obtain a Carte de séjour prior to finding any
job whatsoever, as the process can be longer than expected.
Before entering the city, one must obtain a visa from their
local French Consulate French Embassy
[48]. The guidelines for
particular visas can be found on their website, and differ
depending on length of stay in France, and what exactly you will be
doing while there.
.^ In order to make sure that you see the exact rate that you will be charged for an accommodation for more than 2 adults, it is best to double-check by emailing us at customer service with your dates and the ages of your children.- Luxury & Boutique Hotels in Paris | Tablet Hotels 28 January 2010 0:38 UTC www.tablethotels.com [Source type: News]
Always make 2 copies of all the forms, and to
have plenty of passport photos ready as the copies will be utilized
in each step of the process. If you are going to work in France and
are bringing a child along, also bring your child's information for
obtaining a visa.
After obtaining a visa (usually a single-entry), you
must go to your Local Parisian Prefecture
[49]
as your single-entry visa will expire within 3 months of arrival,
and the process in the country is just as long and arduous as the
one at the Consulate. Expect to go there multiple times, and always
have copies and copies of those copies. The French governmental
system is notorious for losing papers, so always have the copies
handy when you go for your
follow up. When you finally do
receive your
Carte de séjour, you are free to scope out
jobs.
Job listings, as anywhere, can be found in local magazines and
newspapers. Another great place to look for jobs is online, whether
using a
Job Search Engine such as Monster
[50] or Wiki search pages such
as Craigslist
[51]. Remember, the city of
Paris has a huge network of immigrants coming and going, and it is
always great to tap into that network. The city holds a great
abundance of work ready to be found, even if it feels nerve
wracking at first.
Buy
.^ New York City Paris London Los Angeles Area Miami More … Hotel Picks by Travel Stars .- Luxury & Boutique Hotels in Paris | Tablet Hotels 28 January 2010 0:38 UTC www.tablethotels.com [Source type: News]
While the Paris fashion scene is constantly evolving, the
major shopping centres tend to be the same. High end couture can be
found in the 8th arrondisement. In summer, there is nothing better
than browsing the boutiques along Canal St-Martin, or strolling
along the impressive arcades of the historic Palais-Royal, with
beautifully wrapped purchases swinging on each arm.
A good note about Le Marais is that as it is a mostly
Jewish neighborhood, most of the shops in Le Marais are
open on Sundays. The stores in this area are intimate and boutique,
manifesting as particularly "Parisian" style clothing stores. You
will no doubt find something along each street, and is always well
worth the look.
Other great areas to shop around in are around the area Sèvres
Babylone (Métro Line 10 and Line 12). It is in this area you will
find afore mentioned Le Bon Marchée
7th, particularly
rue de
Cherche Midi 6th. The area houses some of
the major fashion houses (Chanel, Jean Paul Gaultier, Versace, etc)
and also has smaller private boutiques with handmade clothing.
In the Quartier Saint-Germain-des-Prés, you can find a
handful of vintage clothing shops, carrying anything from couture
early 20th century dresses, to 70s Chanel sunglasses. Walking along
Boulevard Saint-Germain, you will find major brands.
However, if in search of eclectic finds, opt to walk the northern
side of the Boulevard, especially along rue Saint André des
Arts, where you can always find a nice café to stop in. The
area south of Saint-Germain is just as nice, and comes with a price
tag to match.
Flea Markets
Paris has 3 main flea-markets, located on the outskirts of the
central city. The most famous of these is the
Marché aux
Puces de St-Ouen (Porte de Clignancourt) (Clignancourt
Flea Market) ,
Métro: Porte de Clignancourt, in the
18th, a haven for lovers of
antiques, second-hand goods and retro fashion. The best days to go
are Saturday and Sunday. Note that there are particular times of
the week when only antique collectors are allowed into the stalls,
and there are also times of the day when the stall owners take
their
Parisian Siesta, and enjoy a leisurely cappuccino
for an hour or so. The best times to visit the Flea Markets are in
the spring and summertime, when the area is more vibrant. In and
around the metro station, you may find the area a little wild,
still safe.
Musical Instruments
Rue de Rome, situated near Gare St. Lazare, is crowded with
luthiers, brass and woodwind makers, piano sellers, and sheet music
stores. Subway station Europe.
Artwork
For art lovers, be sure to check out Quartier
Saint-Germain-des-Prés, which is renowned for its galleries,
and it is impossible to turn a street without finding a gallery to
cast your glance in. On Fridays, most open until late. Most even
have the benefit of bottles of wine so you can wander in with your
glass of wine and feel very artistique. Great roads to
walk along are rue de Seine, rue Jacob, rue
des Beaux Arts, Rue Bonaparte, and Rue
Mazarine. Also, be sure to visit the historical district of
Montparnasse' and quartier Vavin where painters like
Modigliani, Gauguin and Zadkine used to work.
Eat
Paris is one of Europe's culinary centres. The restaurant trade
began here just over 220 years ago and continues to thrive. It may
however come as a surprise that Paris isn't considered the culinary
capital of France, rather some people prefer the French cooking
found in small rural restaurants, outside of the city, closer to
the farms and with their focus on freshness and regional
specialities. Even amongst French cities, Paris has long been
considered by some people as second to
Lyon for fine dining.
There have been other challenges in the last 20 years or so as
restaurateurs in places like
San Francisco and
Sydney briefly surpassed their Parisian fore
bearers, again with an emphasis on freshness of ingredients but
also borrowings from other cuisines. Parisian cooks didn't just
rest on their laurels during this time, rather they travelled,
taught, and studied, and together with Paris's own immigrant
communities, have revitalized the restaurant trade. Today you can
find hundreds of beautiful restaurants with thoughtful (or just
trendy) interior design and well-planned and executed
cartes and
menus offering a creative
mélange of French and exotic foreign cuisines. It's safe
to say that Paris is once again catching up with or edging ahead of
its
Anglophone rivals.
Of course there are also some traditional offerings, and for the
budget conscious there are hundreds of traditional bistros, with
their sidewalk terraces offering a choice of fairly simple
(usually meat centred) meals for reasonable prices.
For the uninitiated, it is unfortunately possible to have a
uniformly poor dining experience during a stay in Paris, mainly
because many attractions are situated in upscale areas of town, and
that mass tourism attracts price gougers. It is frequent to hear of
people complaining of very high Parisian prices for poor food and
poor service, because they always tried to eat close to major
tourist magnets. Try to go eat where the locals eat for good food
and great service.
Many restaurants are tiny and have tables close together -
square metres are at a premium and understandably restaurateurs
need to make the most of limited space. In some cases when the
restaurant is crowded, you may have to sit beside strangers at the
same table. If that does not appeal to you, go to a more upscale
place where you will pay for the extra space.
Trendy restaurants often require reservations weeks, if not
months in advance. If you haven't planned far enough ahead, try to
get a reservation for lunch which is generally easier and less
expensive.
For an easy-to-manage eating budget while in Paris, consider:
breakfast or "petit dejeuner" at a restaurant, possibly in your
hotel, consisting of some croissants, coffee, and maybe a piece of
fruit. Get a 'walking lunch' from one of Paris' many food stands--a
panino in the centre of the city, a crepe from a crepe
stand, a felafel pita or take-out Chinese in the Marais.
Traiteurs serving Chinese food are ubiquitous in the city
and good for a cheap lunch and many patisseries sell
inexpensive coffee and sandwiches. All these are cheap (about the
same as breakfast), easy, and allow you to maximize your
sightseeing and walking time while enjoying delicious local or
ethnic food. For dinner, stroll the streets at dusk and consider a
€20-40 prix-fixe menu. This will get you 3 or 4 courses, possibly
with wine, and an unhurried, candlelit, magical European evening.
If you alternate days like this with low-budget, self-guided eating
(picnicking, snacking, street food) you will be satisfied without
breaking the bank.
If one of the aims of your trip to Paris is to indulge in its
fine dining, though, the most cost-effective way to do this is to
make the main meal of your day lunch. Virtually all restaurants
offer a good prix-fixe deal. By complementing this with a bakery
breakfast and a light self-catered dinner, you will be able to
experience the best of Parisian food and still stick to a
budget.
Self catering
Budget travellers will be very pleased with the range and
quality of products on offer at the open air markets (e.g. the
biggest one on Boul Richard Lenoir (near the Bastille), Rue
Mouffetard, Place Buci, Place de la Madeleine and over the Canal
Saint-Martin in the
11th or in any other
arrondissement).
.^ In order to make sure that you see the exact rate that you will be charged for an accommodation for more than 2 adults, it is best to double-check by emailing us at customer service with your dates and the ages of your children.- Luxury & Boutique Hotels in Paris | Tablet Hotels 28 January 2010 0:38 UTC www.tablethotels.com [Source type: News]
Keep in mind that the small
épiceries
which open until late are more expensive than the
supermarchés (Casino, Monoprix, Franprix, etc). For wine,
the price difference can be up to €2.
Buy a baguette, some cheese and a good bottle of wine and join
the Parisian youth for a pique-nique along the Seine
(especially on the Île Saint-Louis) or along the Canal
Saint-Martin. The finest food stores are Lafayette Gourmet in the
Galeries Lafayette or La Grande Epicerie in the luxury department
store Le Bon Marché. They are worth discovering. You will find a
large variety of wines there, otherwise try wine stores such as
Nicolas or Le Relais de Bacchus (all over the city).
Some specialities
For seafood lovers, Paris is a great place to
try moules frites (steamed mussels and French fries)
(better in fall and winter), oysters, sea snails, and other
delicacies. Meat specialties include venison
(deer), boar, and other game (especially in the fall and winter
hunting season), as well as French favourites such as lamb, veal,
beef, and pork.
Prices
Eating out in Paris can be expensive. However don't believe
people when they say you can't do Paris on the cheap - you can! The
key is to stay away from the beaten tracks and the obviously
expensive Champs Elysees. Around the lesser visited quarters
especially, there are many cheap and yummy restaurants to be found.
The key is to order from the Prix-Fixe menu, and not off
the A la Carte menu unless you want to pay an arm and a leg. In
many places a three course meal can be found for about €15. This
way you can sample the food cheaply and is usually more "French".
Ask for "une carafe d'eau" (oon karaaf doe) to get free tap
water.
The best and cheapest way to get around Paris is on foot, and
secondly, using the Metro which is around one euro fifty cents for
a one way trip of any length.
In the artsy quarters of 1 and 4, there are many bargains to be
had once again, if you are prepared to look. Souvenirs are easily
found and can be really inexpensive as long as you don't buy from
the tourist sites. For cheap books of French connection, try the
University/Latin quarter as they sell books in all languages
starting from half a euro each.
Kosher dining
Paris has the largest number of Kosher restaurants in any
European city. Walk up and down Rue des Rosiers to see the variety
and choices available from Israeli, Sushi, Italian and others. See
the district guides for examples.
Vegetarian dining
For
vegetarians, eating traditional French food
will require some improvisation, as it is heavily meat-based. That
being said, Paris has several excellent vegetarian restaurants.
Look for spots such as Aquarius in the
14th, and Le Grenier
de Notre-Dame in the
5th, or La Victoire
Suprême du Coeur in the
1st just to name a
few. See the arrondissement pages for more listings. For fast food
and snacks, you can always find a vegetarian sandwich or pizza.
Even a kebab shop can make you something with just cheese and
salad, or perhaps falafel.
There are also lots of Italian, Thai, Indian, and Mezo-American
places where you will have little problem. In Rue des Rosiers (4th
arrondissement) you can get delicious falafel in the many Jewish
restaurants. Another place to look for falafel is on Rue Oberkampf
(11th arrondissement). Take away falafel usually goes for 5€ or
less.
Moroccan and Algerian cooking is common in Paris - vegetarian
couscous is lovely. Another good option for vegetarians - are
traiteurs, particularly around Ledru Rollin (down the road from
Bastille) take away food where you can combine a range of different
options such as pomme dauphinoise, dolmas, salads, vegetables, nice
breads and cheeses and so on.
Lebanese restaurants and snack shops abound as well, offering a
number of vegetarian
mezze, or small plates. The stand-bys
of course are hummas, falafel, and baba-ganouche (
caviar
d'aubergine). A good place to look for Lebanese is in the
pedestrian zone around Les Halles and Beaubourg in the
1st and
4th.
Tourists and locals
When you are looking for a restaurant in Paris, be a little
careful of those where the staff readily speak English. These
restaurants are usually - but not always - geared towards tourists.
It does make a difference in the staff's service and behaviour
whether they expect you to return or not.
Sometimes the advertised fixed price tourist menus (€10-15) are
a good deal. If you're interested in the really good and more
authentic stuff (and if you have learned some words of French) try
one of the small bistro where the French go during lunch time.
Drink
The bars scene in Paris really does have something for everyone.
From bars which serve drinks in babies bottle, to ultra luxe clubs
that require some name dropping, or card (black Amex) showing, and
clubs where you can dance like no one's watching, (although they
will be). To start your night out right, grab a drink or two in a
ubiquitous dive bar, before burning up the dance floor and
spreading some cash, at one of the trendy clubs.
- Canal St Martin. Many cozy cafés and other
drinking establishments abound around the Canal St Martin
in the 10th.
- The Marais. The Marais boasts a large number
of trendier new bars mostly in the 4th and to a lesser
extent the 3rd with a few old
charmers tossed into the mix. A number of bars and restaurants in
the Marais have a decidedly gay crowd, but are usually perfectly
friendly to straights as well. Some seem to be more specifically
aimed at up-and-coming hetero singles.
- Bastille. There is a very active nightlife
zone just to the northeast of Place de Bastille centered around
rue de Lappe, rue de la Roquette, rue du
Faubourg Saint-Antoine (especially the amazing Club Barrio
Latino) and rue de Charonne in the 11th. Many of the
bars closest to Bastille have either a North, Central, or South
American theme, with a couple of Aussie places mixed in for good
measure, and as you continue up rue de Charonne the cafés
have more of a traditionally French but grungy feeling.
- Quartier Latin - Odeon. If you're looking for
the nouvelle vague (new wave) style, student and
intellectual atmosphere of Paris in the 60s and 70s, you'll find a
lot of that (and more hip + chique) places in the quartier Latin
and between place Odeon and the Seine. The neighborhood is also
home of many small artsy cinemas showing non-mainstream films and
classics (check 'Pariscope' or 'l'officiel du spectacle' at any
newspaper stand for the weekly programme).
- Rue Mouffetard and environs. The area in the
5th on the south side
of the hill topped by the Panthéon has a little bit of everything
for the nighthawk, from the classy cafés of Place de la
Contrescarpe to an Irish-American dive bar just down the way to a
hip, nearly hidden jazz café at the bottom of the hill.
- Châtelet. In some ways the Marais
starts here in the 1st between Les
Halles and Hôtel de Ville but with between all of the
tourists and the venerable Jazz clubs on rue
des Lombards the area deserves some special attention.
- Montmartre. You'll find any number of cozy
cafés and other drinking establishments all around the Butte
Montmartre in the 18th, especially
check out rue des Abbesses near the Métro station
of the same name.
- Oberkampf-Ménilmontant. If you are wondering
where you can find the hipsters (bobos for
bohemian-bourgeois), then look no further. There are
several clusters of grungy-hip bars all along rue
Oberkampf in the 11th, and stretching
well into the 20th up the hill on
rue de Ménilmontant. It's almost like being in San Francisco's Haight-Fillmore
district.
- Bagnolet. There are a cluster of
bar/restaurant/nightclubs along the southern end of the Père
Lachaise cemetery in the 20th including probably the
best place in Paris for nightly local and touring punk rock.
- Rues des Dames-Batignolles. Another good place
to find the grungy-chic crowd is the northern end of the 17th around rue
des Dames and rue des Batignolles, and if you decide
you want something a little different Montmartre is just around the
corner.
- Port de Tolbiac. This previously deserted
stretch of the river Seine in the 13th was re-born as
a center for nightlife (and Sunday-afternoon-life) a few years ago
when an electronic music cooperative opened the
Batofar. Nowadays there are a number of boats
moored along the same quai, including a boat with a
Caribbean theme, and one with an Indian restaurant.
- Saint Germain des Prés. This area boasts two
of the most famous cafés in the world: Café de Flore and Les Deux
Magots, both catering to the tourists and the snobs who can afford
their high prices. This part of the 6th is where the
Parisian café scene really started, and there still are hundreds of
places to pull up to a table, order a glass, and discuss Sartre
deep into the evening.
For individual bar listings see the various Arrondissement pages
under Get around.
Of course there are lots of interesting places which are sort of
off on their own outside of these clusters, including a few like
the Hemingway Bar at the Ritz which are not to be
missed in a serious roundup of Parisian drinking, so check out the
listings even in those arrondissements we haven't mentioned
above.
Some nightclubs in Paris that are worth it: Folies Pigalle (pl.
Pigalle, 18th, very trash, famous for its after, €20), Rex Club
(near one of the oldest cinemas on earth, the Grand Rex,
house/electro, about €15 cheap). You might also want to try Cabaret
(Palais Royal), Maison Blanche, le Baron (M Alma-Marceau). Remember
when going out to dress to impress, you are in Paris! Torn clothing
and sneakers are not accepted. The better you look the most likely
you will get past the random decisions of club bouncers. Also
important to remember if male (or in a group of guys) that it will
be more difficult to enter clubs, try to always have an equal
male/female ratio.
Sleep
Paris hotels, almost without regard to category or price,
observe high and low seasons. These differ slightly from one hotel
to another, but usually the high season roughly corresponds to late
spring and summer, and possibly a couple of weeks around the
Christmas season.
Be aware that when a hotel is listed in any guide or website
this will eventually make it a bit harder to get a room at that
hotel. That means that you will probably need to book ahead,
especially in the high season. However, if they don't have a room
they sometimes know another place close by that does have a room
available.
When two people are travelling together it can be a much better
deal to find a hotel room than to get 2 hostel beds. More privacy
for less money.
For individual hotel listings see the various Arrondissement
pages.
For those who are staying for a while renting a furnished
apartment might be a more comfortable and money-saving option.
Furnished apartments differ considerably in quality, so it is
important to choose carefully. There are a huge number of websites
in the business of helping you find one, but most charge a steep
commission of 10% or more. It is also possible to rent apartments
for shorter stays, and this is an alternative well worth
considering.
Stay safe
Crime
Crime in Paris is similar to most large cities, but violent
crime is uncommon, especially in the heart of the city where most
tourist spots are located (and where there is a high police
presence). As elsewhere, common sense applies and you should check
your surroundings before flashing out expensive cameras and so
on.
Pickpockets are active on the rail link (RER) from Charles de
Gaulle airport to downtown Paris and on the number one metro
(subway) line that cuts across the city center east to west
servicing many of the major tourist sites. A common scheme is for
one thief to distract the tourist with questions or disturbance
while an accomplice picks pockets, a backpack or purse. Thieves
often time their crime to coincide with the closing of the
automatic doors on the metro, leaving the victim secured on the
departing train. Many thefts also occur at the major department
stores (Galeries Lafayette, Printemps) where tourists leave
wallets, passports and credit cards on cashier counters during
transactions.
Popular tourist sites are also popular hunting grounds for
thieves who favour congested areas to mask their activities. The
crowded elevators at the Eiffel Tower, escalators at museums and
the area around the Sacre Cœur church in Montmartre are all
favoured by pickpockets and snatch-and-run thieves.
The area around the famous Moulin Rouge is known as Pigalle, an
adult entertainment area known for prostitutes, sex shows and drugs
(on an unrelated note, it also has a concentration of guitar
shops). Unsuspecting tourists visiting seedy bars often run up
exorbitant bar bills and are forced to pay before being permitted
to leave. If you do visit an adult show absolutely do not order
any drinks for yourself, or any of the workers, without seeing the
prices first. You could pay upwards of €600 for 2 drinks!
The Marché aux Puces (Les Puces) flea market is virtually
designed to make pickpocketing easy and gangs can be witnessed
spotting victims. Walkways are often crowded, narrow, dark, with no
way out except to wait for the extraordinarily-slow walkers to
move.
There are some areas, like Barbès (18th), where it's better not
to hang around alone at night. In these areas, a lot depends on the
way you behave and if you know how to adapt to the situation. If
you know what you are looking for, speak some French and feel
comfortable, there is no problem strolling around a neighborhood
like Barbès.
You may have heard sensational news reports about riots in
downtrodden, poor crime-ridden suburbs of Paris
(banlieues) where many inhabitants are of foreign origin
(North Africa). In reality, many of these suburbs, though poor, are
safe in normal times. The subject is very touchy, since it has
racist overtones; you should certainly avoid discussing it. In any
case, as a tourist there probably isn't much reason to
visit the suburbs except for perhaps the Basilique de St Denis.
Other attractions located in the suburbs (Fontainebleau castle,
Versailles castle, Malmaison...) are in well-heeled areas with very
little crime.
The metro is relatively safe, but again, pickpockets and purse
snatchers do work in the stations and on the trains especially near
tourist destinations. If you are carrying a bag make sure that it's
closed tightly. If you have a wallet in your pocket keep a hand on
it while entering or exiting the trains. Don't carry any more cash
than you can afford to lose. Keep your cash on different parts of
your body: some in your money belt, some in your purse/wallet, some
in your shoe. Keep the contents of your purse/wallet to the bare
essentials: money, one debit/credit card, I.D., emergency contact
information, medical I.D. When you have to access your money belt,
do so in private.
Recent news reports have highlighted new tactics by thieves,
targeting taxis on their way into the city from Charles de Gaulle
airport. Thieves wait for the taxi to be stopped in the usual
traffic jam along the A1 highway and break windows to get to the
passengers' bags. To avoid this, you may place your bags in the
trunk of the taxi or take the very safe Air France shuttle.
You should also beware of illegal taxis. At least one young
foreign tourist has been murdered after getting into a car that was
not - as she'd believed - an official Parisian taxi.
Beware also of distraught-looking women and children asking if
you can speak English (they are easy to spot because they often
have long dark hair, long skirts, and they wander around, going
from person to person). You'll be presented with a card or letter
with a story explaining something like "My mother is in hospital in
another country terminally ill. I'm stuck in Paris with no money
and I need to visit her." You´ll encounter them at the major train
and Métro stations (they are especially prevalent in and around
Gare du Nord and Châtelet-Les Halles) and also at most major
tourist attractions. Even on the Champs-Élysées. They are also
prevalent around the Arc de Triomphe near the Embassy of Qatar. At
certain tourist hotspots (such as the Sacre Coeur) there are
African men who will try to show you a 'magic trick'. This involves
tying a piece of string around your finger. While you are
distracted (and your arm is effectively disabled), an accomplice
will pickpocket you.
Some Parisian restaurants, particularly in the tourist-laden
Latin Quarter, make a living ripping off tourists who are hampered
by a language barrier. When ordering, particularly if ordering a
"menu" or prix-fixe meal, point to the actual menu item and be sure
you repeat the price. Eye contact works wonders, as does a modicum
of conversational French. If the bill does not conform to what you
order, complain and leave the restaurant without paying if this
does not work.
Beware of touristy areas where there are gambling stands with
people playing. They are more than likely to be accompliances of
the person manning the booth. They usually play with 3 black rubber
coins to guess the one with a white piece of paper stuck
underneath. You can never win at that as they switch hands and do
not let you open it yourself. If you ever get cheated there, shout
at them loudly and refuse to let them go as they usually operate in
crowded places.
Another thing to be wary of is people asking where do you come
from with strings in their hand. They will make small talk with you
while tying a friendship band around your finger. After that they
will demand money from you. Sometimes, along the Seine-River,
fraudsters "find" a ring which they give to you. This happens
especially to young couples and they always hand the ring to the
man. This gesture is thought to gain some trustfulness because they
act as if they think the ring was yours. They don't want you to
give the ring back. A few moments later they ask you for money to
buy something to eat: but it is already too late. It is really hard
to get rid of those people then.
Also, be warned to not act big. Fraudsters react unpredictably,
sometimes even violently. So take care that you call attention
unobviously, when you want to tell people that a fraud happens.
Since 2007, it is strictly forbidden to smoke in enclosed areas
(train stations, subway stations, buildings), and since 1 Jan 2008,
smoking is no longer permitted in restaurants and bars, except for
outside seating areas.
Respect
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Parisians have, among the French too, a reputation
for being rude and arrogant. Some of their reputation for
brusqueness may stem from the fact that they are constantly
surrounded by tourists, who can sometimes themselves seem rude and
demanding. Remember that most people you'll encounter in the street
are not from the tourism industry and are probably on their way to
or from work or business.
This is not to say that Parisians are in fact, by nature, rude.
On the contrary: there are a considerable number of rules defining
what is rude and what is polite in Parisian interpersonal
relationships; if anything, the Parisians are more polite
than most (This should be no surprise, though, when one considers
the fact that "étiquette" is a French word). Thus, the
best way to get along in Paris is to be on your best behavior,
acting like someone who is "bien élevé" (well brought up)
will make getting about considerably easier. Parisians' abrupt
exteriors will rapidly evaporate if you display some basic
courtesies. A simple "Bonjour, Madame" when entering a
shop, for example, or "Excusez-moi" when trying to get
someone's attention, or very important; say "Pardon" or
better "je suis désolé" if you bump into someone
accidentally or make other mistakes, will transform the surliest
shop assistant into a smiling helper or the grumpiest inhabitant to
a helpful citizen. Courtesy is extremely important in France (where
the worst insult is to call someone "mal élevé", or "badly
brought up").
If you only learn one long phrase in French a good one would be
"Excusez-moi de vous déranger, monsieur/madame, auriez-vous la
gentillesse de m'aider?" (pardon me for bothering you,
sir/madam, would you have the kindness to help me?) - this level of
extreme politeness about the closest one can come to a magic wand
for unlocking Parisian hospitality. If you know some French, try
it!
In addition, if you are travelling to or from the airport or
train station and have luggage with you, make certain that you are
not blocking the aisles in the train by leaving your bags on the
floor. The RER B (which links both Orly and Charles de Gaulle
airports to the city) has luggage racks above the seats; it is
advised that you use them so you do not block the path of a local
who is getting off the train before the airport stop. On the Métro
and especially in the RER, please don't take up extra seats with
your luggage. There are luggage racks and spaces between the seats.
Also note that use of the folding seats on the Métro is not
permitted during peak hours.
Be aware that there are hefty fines for littering in Paris.
Contact
One helpful thing about having official and numbered districts
in Paris is that you can easily tell which arrondissement an
address is in by its postal code, and can easily come up with the
postal code for a Paris address if you know its arrondissement. The
rule is just pre-pend 750 or 7500 to the front of the
arrondissement number, with 75001 being the postal code for the 1st
and 75011 being the postal code for the 11th, and so on. The 16th
has two postal codes, 75016 and 75116.
Phone cards are available from most "Tabacs" but make
sure you know where you can use them when you buy them, as some
places still sell the cartes cabines which are hard to use
as cabines are rare.
The city of Paris provides with
free Internet
access via 400 Wi-Fi access points throughout the city.
Look for the network called 'Orange' on your laptop or PDA device.
[52]
Cope
Although known as the fashion capital, Paris is actually quite
conservative in dress. So if you go out in bright colors expect to
be stared at. Dressing this way in certain arrondissements, such as
9th and 18th, you may attract unwanted attention. Also be aware
that French (and, more generally, European) women and girls do not
usually wear shorts shorter than above the knee outside of sporting
events. It is not considered indecent but may stand out from the
locals.
- Chartres - The 12th
century cathedral of Notre Dame at Chartres is one of the
highlights of Gothic architecture.(60 mn trainride from Gare
Montparnasse)
- Versailles - On
the SW edge of Paris, the site of the Sun King Louis XIV's
magnificent palace. (20-40 min trainride by RER)
- Saint Denis - On
the northern edge of the metropolis, site of the Stade de
France and St Denis Abbey, burial place of French
royalty.
- Chantilly -
Wonderful 17th century palace and gardens (and the birthplace of
whipped cream). (25 min trainride from Gare du Nord)
- Giverny - The
inspirational house and gardens of the Impressionist painter Claude
Monet are but a day-trip away. The gardens and its flowers are the
most interesting part of the visit, so avoid rainy days.
- Disneyland Resort Paris - In
the suburb of Marne-la-Vallée, to the east of Paris,
from where it can be reached by car, train, or bus (the train is
probably your best bet).
- Parc
Astérix - North of Paris, may be reached via a shuttle bus from
CDG Airport.
- Fontainebleau - A lovely historical town
south of Paris (55.5 km or 35 mi). It is renowned for its large and
scenic Forest of Fontainebleau, a favorite weekend getaway for
Parisians, as well as for the historical Château de Fontainebleau.
(35 min trainride from Gare de Lyon)
sq:Paris
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