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Lahore Gate at the Red Fort
- For other places with the same name, see Delhi
(disambiguation).
Delhi (Hindi: दिल्ली, Urdu: دلّی, Punjabi: ਦਿੱਲੀ) [1] is northern India's largest city. One part of
it, known as New Delhi (Hindi: नई दिल्ली Naï
Dillî), is officially designated the capital of India, but the
names are often used interchangeably.
Understand
History
Delhi is said to be one of the oldest existing cities in the
world, along with Damascus
and Varanasi. Legend
estimates it to be over 5,000 years old. Over the millennia, Delhi
is said to have been built and destroyed 11 times. The oldest
alleged incarnation of the city shows up in the Indian mythological
epic Mahabharata as Indraprastha. The
earliest historically recognized version of the city is
- Qila Rai Pithora – This dates back to the 10th
century A.D. as per available historical records. Also known as Rai
Pithora, this city was the capital during the reign of Prithviraj
Chauhan, the local hero famous for his first defeating, before
finally losing to, the marauding invaders from central Asia
(Muhammad Ghori in particular). Chauhan's ancestors are said to
have captured the city from the Tomar Rajputs who were credited
with founding Delhi. Anangpal, a Tomar ruler possibly created the
first known regular fort here called 'Lal Kot', which was taken
over by Prithviraj and the city extended. Some of the ruins of the
fort ramparts are still visible around Qutab Minar and
Mehrauli
India Gate,a Central Landmark of Delhi
The Parliament House, Sansad Bhawan ,New Delhi
- Mehrauli – Muhammad Ghori managed to defeat
Prithviraj Chauhan in battle in 1192. Ghori left his slave
Qutub-ud-din Aibak as his viceroy, who in turn captured Delhi the
subsequent year. After Ghori's death in 1206, Aibak proclaimed
himself the ruler of Delhi and founded the slave dynasty.
Qutb-ud-din contributed significantly in terms of architecture by
getting Mehrauli built. His most prominent contribution is the
starting of Qutab Minar. This 72.5 m tall tower was built across
three generations and finally completed in 1220AD. A visitor to the
Qutab Minar could also see the mausoleum of Kaki, Shamsi Talao and
some other mosques. The Slave dynasty ruled until 1290, among them
was Razia Sultan who ruled for just three years, but became a
historic figure for being the first empress in India.
- Siri - Qutuddin Aibaq's 'Slave Dynasty' was
followed by the line of Khilji (or Khalji) rulers. The most
prominent among the six rulers was Allauddin who extended the
kingdom to the south of Narmada and also established the city of
'Siri'. Among some of the remaining ruins, is part of the Siri Fort
in the greater Hauz Khas area. The madrasa at Hauz Khas was
constructed during Allauddin's reign and bears the stamp of West
Asian architecture. Hauz Khas is more often visited today for the
chic botiques and restaurants.
- Tughlakabad - Exactly as it happens during the
fall of a lineage of kings, after the Khilji's there was
administrative chaos for sometime as the last Khilji ruler was
slain by Nasruddin Mohammed. Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq (a Turk governor)
invaded Delhi in the 1320s, started the Tughlaq dynasty, and
founded the city of Tughlakabad. The ruins of the large fort still
remain. His descendent Muhammad Bin Tughlaq raised the fort walls,
created another city called Jahapanah (which enclosed the area
between Siri and Qila Rai Pithora). Tughlakabad continued, however,
to be the main capital city.
Muhammad Bin Tughlaq is also known as the mad king for wanting
to move the capital from Delhi to Daulatabad (now near Aurangabad
in Maharashtra) and making the entire population travel, only to
return in a few years because of water shortage in the new
town.
- Firozabad - Muhammad Bin Tughlaq's son, Firoze
created the next city which was called Firozabad or Firoze Shah
Kotla. There still are some ruins which are visible around the
cricket stadium by the same name. The city was a enclosed a large
area, and contained many palaces, mosques, pillared halls, and
multi-floored water tank. Firoze Shah also planted a 1500 year old
Ashokan Pillar on top of the palace.
Feroze Shah, also repaired many of the older construction in
Delhi including Ghori's tomb, Qutub Minar,Suraj Kund and Hauz Khas.
He, himself, was buried inside a lofty tomb in Hauz Khas. Quite
like earlier, after Feroze Shah's death, the sultnate became
unstable and weak, and was invaded by Taimur the Lame (from
Samarkhand) who created havoc in the city by looting, killing,
raping and plundering. The Sayyids and Lodhis who ruled Delhi after
the Tughlaq's paid more attention to re-establishing miltiary and
political stability to the kingdom. The only relevant architecture
visible from this period are the tombs at Lodhi Gardens. The last
of the Lodhi's was defeated by Babur in the first battle of
Panipat. Babur then proceeded to establish the Mughal dynasty.
- Shergarh - Babur's son Humayun ruled the
kingdom for a few years only to be defeated by Sher Shah Suri
(1540), who established the new city Shergarh (on the ruins of
Dinpanah, built by Humayun) towards the north and near the river.
Shergarh is what you see at Purana Qila today, near the Delhi zoo.
After Humayun came back to power, he completed the construction and
proceeded to rule from Shergarh.
- Shahjehabanad - the next of the Mughal
emperors chose to move away from Delhi and established Agra as the
capital of their kingdom. Shahjehan (Humayun's great-grandson)
returned to Delhi and established Shahjehanabad. This included the
Jama Masjid, the Red Fort and all that in enclosed within the walls
of Old Delhi. This wall is still around in many parts and three of
the six gates (Delhi gate, Lahori Gate, Turkman Gate, Ajmeri Gate,
Kashmiri Gate, Mori Gate)to Delhi still exist. Kashmiri Gate was
reconstructed and widened by the British after the 1857
revolt.
- Lutyen's New Delhi - The final city as you see
today expanded from what Sir Edwin Lutyens.
Inspite of its rich historical heritage represented by the
numerous monuments, Delhi's population is hardly aware of it and
has little pride or feeling for the city's history. This is due to
the simple reason that few Delhi residents actually belong to
Delhi. The population of Delhi is a heterogeneous mix of people
originally belonging to different parts of North India and beyond.
Among the prominent North Indian communities are the Punjabis, who
are the descendants of the refugees of the Indian Partition. They
are easily the most affluent community. However, their dominance in
recent years has been challenged by the increasing affluence of
other North Indian communities. Delhi has a prominent South Indian
Community, primarily in areas like RK Puram and Munirka. A Bengali
Settlement, the Chittaranjan Park in south east Delhi is the Mini
Calcutta of Delhi.
And the biggest irony is the fact that the descendants of the
builders of Delhi's many Muslim monuments no longer stay in Delhi.
Most of them migrated to Pakistan during the Partition, with only a
small, ever-diminishing community in Old Delhi keeping old courtly
traditions alive.
Like the rest of the Gangetic Plains, Delhi is as flat
as a pancake. The only geographical features of any
significance are the river Yamuna, which flows
down the eastern side of the city, and the Aravalli
Hills, which form a wide but low arc across the west. On
the west bank is the crowded and congested Old (Central)
Delhi and, to the south, the broad, tree-lined avenues of
New Delhi, built by the British to rule their
empire. The rest is an endless low-rise sprawl of suburbia and
slums, with southern Delhi (nearer to New Delhi) generally somewhat
wealthier and the western reaches rather poorer.
South Delhi
Indeed, on a broad scale Delhi is not difficult to navigate. The
Outer Ring Road, and Ring Road, offer simple connections between
districts. In South Delhi, most of the major districts lie on
either the inner or outer ring roads.
Traveling west on the Ring Road from Nizammudin, the following
colonies lie in the following order, Friends Colony, Lajpat Nagar,
Defence Colony, South Extention, INA, Safdarjung, Bikhaji Kama
Place, RK Puram, Chankyapuri, Dhaula Kuan.
And on the outer Ring Road, traveling west from Okhla, the
following colonies lie in the following order,Nehru Place, Kalkaji,
GK2, GK1, CR Park, PanchShil Park, Hauz Khas Enclave, Safdarjung
Enclave, Munirka, Vasant Vihar.
The only major areas that lie in between the Ring Roads as
opposed to adjacent to them are are Anand Niketan, Hauz Khas
Village, Green Park. However, these areas are easily accessible
from Shanti Path, Aurobindo Marg, and Khel Gaon Marg
respectively.
Inside the colonies it is another issue, often akin to mazes,
finding your way around the inside of any colony other than Vasant
Vihar or Chanakyapuri is not for the faint hearted.
Climate
Delhi's climate is, sad to say, infamously bad,
combining the scorching aridity of Rajasthan's deserts with the
frigid cold of the Himalayas. From April to October, temperatures
are scorchingly hot (over 40°C is common), and the monsoon rains
deluge the city in July and August. With every air-conditioner
running at full blast, the city has a developing infrastructure and
has been under tremendous development, power and water outages were
common but have drastically improved in last few years. In winter,
especially December and January, temperatures can dip to near-zero
and the city is blanketed in thick fog, causing numerous flight
cancellations. The shoulder seasons (Feb-Apr and Sep-Nov) are
comparatively pleasant, with temperatures in the 20-30°C range, but
short.
- The City of Djinns, William Dalrymple; another
travelogue and well-written.(ISBN 0142001007)
- "The Last Mughal", William Dalrymple; well documented
chronological events of the fall of Mughal Enpire. [ISBN
1400043107]
By plane
Indira Gandhi International Airport (IGI, IATA: DEL) [2] is the arrival point
for many visitors into Delhi. Once one of the worst airports on the
planet, the airport has been taken over by an international
consortium, which has completed a first round of refurbishing that
has already improved things greatly. Most terminals have basic
facilities like money changing and restaurants, and even the
toilets are now usable without gasmasks and hazmat suits, but the
major problem remains overcrowding — during the
peak hours (middle of the night for international flights and early
morning for domestic), it can be hard to find even a place to
sit.
The airport is split into three terminals, with the domestic
terminals commonly known as Palam Airport.
- Terminal 1A (Domestic): Air India ("IC" flight
numbers), Go Air, MDLR, Jagson
- Terminal 1D (Domestic): All other domestic
flights
- Terminal 2 (International): All international
flights and Air India domestic "AI" flights
The domestic terminals are near each other, but both are a long
way from Terminal 2 and you should reserve at least three
hours to connect. If you are making connections, it can
take between 15 and 30 minutes once you exit one terminal to get to
the other one by car (depending on time of day and traffic). There
is a free shuttle bus between T1 and T2, but it runs only once per
hour. (On the upside, it crosses through the airport and can be
much faster than detouring on the congested roads outside like
taxis do.)
When leaving Delhi from international terminal, security at the
airport is tight, so you should show up two hours before your
flight is scheduled. For domestic flights 1h 15mins should be
enough. The process is smoother than it used to be: X-raying bags
before entry is no longer necessary, and shops and restaurants are
now located at the gate area, not before security. However, if you
wish to change Rupees back into foreign currency, you must do this
before clearing security. Gate area shops accept rupees only from
Indian nationals.
The easiest and safest way to get from the airport to
the city is to arrange transport ahead of time
through your hotel (some hotels provide this service for free). You
could also try a private taxi firm like Meru Cabs [3] which has online booking
but you need an indian mobile phone number in order to book. They
will wait in the VIP car park (directly opposite arrivals) - should
cost no more than Rs.550 to the most distant hotels north of
Connaught Place. Alternatively, you can pay for a taxi at the
prepaid taxi booths in the international terminal (it is advised
that you check your change). The pre-paid booths are visible as
soon as you exit customs. The one on the left is managed by the
Delhi police. To the right of the exit door are private taxi
operators. They are more expensive but the cars are
air-conditioned.The number of the taxi assigned to you will be on
the receipt. Then, go straight through the airport and turn right
immediately outside the front doors and someone will help you find
your taxi. There are several options, but the booth operated by the
"Delhi Police" is considered the best, with non-A/C taxis to most
points in the city Rs.200-300. Keep an eye on your change though
and try to avoid paying with large bills.
Do not give the receipt to the driver until you
get to the destination as this is what they are paid on. Also,
ignore the explanation the driver will invariably offer at the
destination as to why he requires additional payment. There is no
practice of tipping taxi drivers anywhere in India. Take your
baggage first, then give the driver the receipt and walk away
without further discussion. There is a problem with this as there
is a checkpoint manned by the traffic police just as your taxi
moves away, you will have to give the receipt to the driver who
will hand it over to the police who will record the number. Try
getting the receipt back from the driver!
It is also possible to take a city bus during the day or a
private one that runs 24 hours a day. As everywhere in India,
ignore taxi touts!
During the winter (Dec-Jan), Delhi often experiences
dense fog and visibility is reduced considerably,
making it difficult for flights to land and take off. Both
international and domestic flights are often diverted or cancelled,
so plan accordingly and allow for one or two days for
possible delays.
By bus
Buses arrive from Kathmandu and Chitwan in Nepal (36+ hours) and virtually every city in
India. Although not as comfortable as the trains, buses are the
only choice for some destinations, mainly those in the
mountains.
Delhi has a confusing slew of inter-state bus termini (ISBT),
which all have two names. The Delhi Transport Corporation [4] is the major operator,
but every state also runs its own buses and there are some private
operators too.
- Kashmere Gate ISBT (aka Maharana Pratap),
Metro Kashmere Gate, Line 1/2. This is "the" ISBT and the
largest of the lot. Buses to points north, including Nepal.
- Sarai Kale Khan ISBT (aka Vir Hakikat Rai),
next to Hazrat Nizamuddin railway station. Buses to points
south.
- Anand Vihar ISBT (aka Swami Vivekanand), on
the east bank of Yamuna, Metro: Anand Vihar, Line 3 (end
2009). Buses to points east.
- Bikaner House bus stop. Buses, including
air-conditioned Volvo buses from Jaipur arrive at this place. For
travel between Jaipur and Delhi, this bus stop is very clean, less
crowded than ISBT, and easy to reach.
By train
Trains arrive at one of four main stations:
Delhi Junction, also called Old Delhi or
Purani Dilli; the second at New Delhi
which lies in Central Delhi; Hazrat Nizamuddin a
few kilometers to the south; and the upcoming Anand
Vihar station to the east. (A very few trains use Delhi
Sarai Rohilla or Delhi Cantt stations.) Delhi Junction and New
Delhi Railway Station are now conveniently connected by Metro Line
2, just minutes apart, while Anand Vihar is served by Line 3. It
will take about 40 minutes to an hour to travel from the New Delhi
Railway Station to the airport by car, depending on traffic.
A ticket office open to all is on the road to
Connaught Place with longer hours. It often has waiting times not
much longer than at the tourist booking office. You will need to
know the number or name of the train you want to take. Easiest of
all, though, is to book on-line through the Indian Railways booking
website [5]
or at the Cleartrip [6] website. Cleartrip charges
a fee to use their service as it is third party but the advantage
is that the website is much more user friendly where the Indian
Railways site is a little difficult to navigate
Once you have purchased a ticket either at the ticket office or
online prior to the trip, all you need to do is go to the rail car
labeled with your class of service purchased. You can either just
get on and sit in the first available seat or often times for
higher classes of service, they will post a passenger list on the
car when it stops. Look for your name and go to the assigned car,
cabin and seat. There is never a need to get a boarding pass so if
anyone comes out of the crowd to tell you that, don't listen to
them. It is a scam. If you're brave, you can simply purchase a
general 2nd class ticket and then get on any car where there is
availability. The conductor will come by and check your tickets
after the train starts moving. If you are in a higher fare class
than you are ticketed for, all you have to do is simply pay the
difference in fare to the conductor. The only risk here is that the
train could be full and you could be stuck in the lowest fare class
which can be very crowded with little room to sit.
New Delhi Railway Station
The main entrance to New Delhi Railway Station
(code NDLS) is located just outside of Paharganj, also
known as the backpacker ghetto. The Delhi Metro now connects
directly here, but the metro exits are at the Ajmeri Gate (second
entrance) side near platform 12. You can also take prepaid
rickshaws and taxis from the plaza outside the main entrance.
The station is large, crowded, confusing and packed with touts,
so allow one hour (yes, really) to find your train the
first time you visit. Don't trust the electronic display boards,
which often show incorrect information. Instead listen to the
announcements and ask multiple people in uniform until you find
your train. However, anyone, in uniform or not, who approaches you
spontaneously should be ignored. Use one of the porters (in orange)
who will find your train easily — in exchange for a tip, of
course.
A tourist ticket office called the International Tourist
Bureau is open during office hours upstairs of but still
within the main New Delhi railway station. Ignore touts who will
try to convince you that it has moved or is closed. Note that it is
only for foreign tourists, so you must have a tourist visa
(i.e. student and working visas are not acceptable). Non-resident
Indians can also book their tickets through this office. Bring your
passport and cash or traveller's cheques in U.S. dollars, British
Pounds or Euros. If you wish to pay in Indian rupees you
must show an official exchange certificate (from India,
not valid if you changed in another country) or an ATM receipt. To
get a ticket, first get a form from the centre of the room, and
fill it out. Then go to the information desk near the entrance.
There, have the clerk check the availability of the train(s) you
desire, and fill out your form accordingly. Then line up at one of
the two u-shaped lines of chairs for the reservation desks.
There are lots of tricks and scams in operation at NDRS. It is a
baffling place, especially if you just arrived in India. Basically
do not believe anybody who approaches you to volunteer information,
even if they show you an official ID from the railway authority.
Stuff like 'oh that train goes from another station' or 'no you
need to go to this office in a different part of town to get your
boarding pass' or offers of assistance with bags or help taking you
to where you want to go. It's a con. If you need help, YOU choose
who you want to help you, don't trust strangers who appear out of
the crowd.
Delhi Railway Station
Formally Delhi Junction (code DLI),
but best referred to as "Old" Delhi Station for clarity. Like New
Delhi RS, this station is huge and confusing. The platforms are
not in linear order, with some hidden in the west and east
wings of the stations. The railway station is served by Metro Line
2 Chandni Chowk station.
Hazrat Nizamuddin
Hazrat Nizamuddin (code NZM) is the
departure point of many trains heading south. Practically speaking,
the only way to get here is by taxi or auto. The budget alternative
is to take a bus to the Sarai Kale Khan Inter State Bus Terminal
(ISBT) on the ring road and then walk over to the station (400
meters). It's the least chaotic of the Big Three, but still pretty
big and poorly signposted — listen to the announcements to figure
out your train. The station has a pretty good food court that sells
inexpensive, hygienic takeaway snacks (sandwiches, samosas,
etc).
If you have some time to kill, pay a visit to Humayun's Tomb,
which is so close to the station that you can hear the
announcements from inside — although it's a long, circuitous walk
from the station to the entrance.
Anand Vihar
Anand Vihar (code ANVR) is Delhi's
newest station, located well to the east of the city near Noida. Repeatedly delayed, the
station finally opened in December 2009 and will gradually take
over all east-bound services. The station can be reached by Delhi
Metro Line 3.
Get around
Getting around Delhi is always an adventure. Traffic is, by and
large, horribly congested and many drivers will think nothing of
quoting ten times the going price to a tourist. Use the prices
below as broad guidelines, agree on prices before setting
off, and don't get too hot under the collar over a rupee or two —
they mean a lot more to the cycle rickshaw-wallah earning
Rs. 50 on a good day than they do to you.
Delhi Metro and rail network
Three lines of the new Delhi Metro [7] are now open and
provide a cheap, quick, hassle-free and air-conditioned way of
zipping around the city. As of 2009, the following lines are
open:
- Line 1 (Red Line): Dilshad Garden-Kashmere
Gate-Rithala
- Line 2 (Yellow Line): Jahangirpuri-Kashmere
Gate-Connaught Place-Central Secretariat
- Line 3 (Blue Line): Noida-Connaught Place-Dwarka Sector 9
Fares range from Rs. 8 to 30, just buy a token, change lines as
necessary, and deposit the token in the slot as you exit. Tokens
can be used only from the station they are bought, so you can't buy
two and use the second to return home. If you're planning on
sticking around for a while, you can buy a "Smart Card" for Rs.
100, which is worth Rs. 50 and includes a Rs. 50 deposit; using
this saves 10% and, more importantly, lets you avoid the queues.
There is also a "Tourist Card" allowing unlimited use for Rs.100 (1
day) or Rs.250 (3 days), but it's highly unlikely that you'll
travel enough to make this pay off.
Line 2, in particular, is useful for getting to the Old Delhi
(Chandni Chowk, Jama Masjid) and New Delhi railway stations, the
ISBT bus terminal and the backpacker ghetto of Paharganj. Line 3 is
also handy for visiting Akshardham and accessing the western parts
of Paharganj through RK Ashram Marg station. The network is still
growing at warp speed, and in 2010, a new dedicated Airport Link
and an extension to Gurgaon
are scheduled to open.
Beware: Metro stations all use the new, official, Indianized
names, so Connaught Place is "Rajiv Chowk", Old Delhi Railway
Station is "Chandni Chowk" and ISBT is "Kashmere Gate".
By train
There are limited commuter services on Delhi's railways, but the
facilities are a far cry from the user-friendly Metro and stations.
For the most part, train stations are inconveniently located. There
is no passenger service on the Delhi Ring Railroad outside rush
hour.
You're never alone on a bus in Delhi
All parts of Delhi are well connected by buses and with tickets
ranging from 5-15 Rupees they're very cheap, but they're also the
least comfortable means of transport and the hardest to use.
Delhi's buses are quite crowded, rarely air-conditioned and drivers
often drive rashly. Bus routes are often written only in Hindi and
bus stops don't have any route lists, so it can be difficult to
find your way. Asking other people at the bus stop is often the
best way to find out about bus routes to your destination. Buses
are pretty frequent, running every 15-20 min or so on most routes.
There are two kinds of buses in Delhi:
- Government run DTC [8] buses
- Privately run Blue-Line buses
If you have a choice, go for a DTC bus. They will stop less
frequently and will generally be less crowded too. Note that many
buses, DTC ones too, will stop pretty much anywhere if there are
enough people getting on or off.
Board buses at the back and pay the ticket seller sitting right
next to the door. Be sure to hang onto your tickets, as ticket
checks are fairly frequent. Some seats on the left side of the bus
may be reserved for women and the handicapped. When it's time to
disembark, move to the front of the bus and hop out from the door
near the driver. As you might expect, all these guidelines are
regularly ignored when buses are very crowded.
By taxi
A taxi or hired car (usually
with driver) is required to see many of the far-flung sites within
and around Delhi. To get a taxi or a hired car for Delhi Darshan or
Delhi sight Seeing Log on www.tricabs.com or call 01126211290.They
charge Rs. 950/- for indica a/c for full day sight seeing or you
have to go to a taxi stand. They are not usually flagged from the
street. Alternatively, you can call for a cab at 1090.
Most Delhi taxis are old but reliable Ambassadors in distinctive
black-and-yellow livery. While all are equipped
with meters and should cost Rs. 6 to start plus Rs. 7 per
km, the meters are often rigged and it's better to agree on the
price in advance. Most trips around the city should be Rs. 50-100,
while a trip to the airport would be Rs. 200. An eight-hour charter
should cost around Rs. 500, and a tip is expected if the driver is
helpful. Note that most Ambassadors are not air-conditioned.
The death knell of the Ambassador was rung in December 2006,
when modern radio taxi services were launched. At
Rs.15/km, they're twice the list price of the competition, but they
use modern vehicles with air-conditioning and can be dialed up 24
hours/day. Operators include Delhi Cab, tel. 44333222, Metro Cab,
tel. 1923, Easy Cab, tel. 43434343 and Quick Cab, tel.
45333333.
You shouldn't take non-official taxis, sometimes they take you
to a wrong hotel, or to a "tourist information center", and try to
sell you overpriced things.
By auto rickshaws
Auto rickshaws (also called
three-wheeled scooters or simply
autos) are good for shorter trips. Always in a
distinctive yellow-and-green livery, auto
rickshaws are three-wheeled partially enclosed contraptions (no
doors!) that run on CNG and can seat three people in the back. In
general, they are much cheaper than taxis and can be hailed from
the street. Although by law the rickshaw drivers should charge
according to the meter in their vehicle (Rs. 10 for the first km,
4.50 rupees per km after), this rate is unrealistically low and
they will almost always try to haggle for price; some locals go so far as to
say that you should not use the meter, because it means
that either the meter is rigged, or the driver will take you the
long way around! As rules of thumb, even the shortest journey costs
Rs. 20, but you should not need to pay over Rs. 100 for any trip
within the city.
If you have any trouble with them, go to any of the numerous
tourist police stations in the city center and they will give you a
complaint slip which will result in a 500 rupee fine for the auto
driver. There should also be a telephone number written on the
vehicle to call in case of any complaint.
There are a number of "PRE PAID" Auto stands run by the Police.
Tell them where you want to go and pay them upfront. The charge
will include 5 rupees for the service. You then take the coupon and
stand outside where a policeman will direct you to the next
available Auto. When your journey is completed you hand the coupon
to the wallah and that's it. Nothing more to pay (despite what they
may say).
Cycling in Old Delhi's Chawri Bazaar, facing Jama Masjid
Cycle rickshaws are three-wheeled, pedal-powered rickshaws with
seats in the back to seat passengers and a driver in the front.
They are good for short distances, or places which are too far to
walk but too short for taking a bus/taxi/auto rickshaw. Cycle
rickshaws don't use meters, so establish a price before getting on.
Twenty rupees is reasonable for most journeys of a kilometer or
two, although many Delhiites will haggle if the driver dares to
suggest 10 rupees.
Cycle rickshaws are best to use in Old Delhi to visit the
intricate galis (walkways) and to enjoy the smells and
sounds of the city.
On foot
Much of Delhi is quite pedestrian-hostile. Distances are long,
road signage is poor, and in the more tourist oriented areas,
you'll be constantly accosted by beggars and touts. Crossing roads
often involves wading across multiple lanes of heavy traffic. Try
your best to move in a predictable straight line, so vehicles can
weave around you. (Better yet, latch onto a group of locals and
cross in their shadow.) If you really want to walk around, these
places would be good:
- Walk from Rashtrapati Bhavan (President's house) to India Gate
on the Rajpath (a walk of close to 3-4 kms).
- Walk from Jama Masjid to Red Fort in the Chandni Chowk
area.
- Far South Delhi go walk about in the forest. Try starting from
south of Indian Institute of Technology through Sanjay Van to Qtub
Minar. Note however that Sanjay Van is not always safe, and it is
advisable to go there in a group, preferably during daylight
hours.
- South Delhi- Green Park to Hauz Khas Village, then to the Hauz
Khas ruined madrasa, offers a newer shopping area, a posh arts
village, old ruins, and some quality greener.
Talk
The native language of Delhi residents is Hindi, which
also happens to be the national language of India. Almost everybody
you meet will be able to speak fluent Hindi. However, most educated
people will also be fluent in English, and many shopkeepers and
taxi drivers will have a functional command of English. Punjabi
is also an official language, but it's spoken much less widely.
See
The staff at the Delhi tourist office is very
helpful, and the office has a lot of free information: The
Government of India Tourist Office 88 Janpath, Connaught
Place. Tel: 23320005, 23320008, 23320109, 23320266. The Government
of India Tourist Office offers daily tours, covering all of the
major Delhi sites. If you should choose to go with the
government-sanctioned day tour, be aware that due to the heavy
agenda, you will need to have a quick foot, only 20 to 40 minutes
are given for each sight, which is next to no time. Consider this
day tour as a sampler. If there is a sight of particular interest,
bookmark it and return at a later date.
Beware: there are various private "tourist information" offices
around Connaught Place openly claiming to be the official
government tourist office. They're actually just travel agents that
have nothing to do with The Government of India, and since they
prey on tourists, anything you buy from them will be grossly
overpriced compared to doing it yourself.
Lahore Gate of the Red Fort
The Red Fort (Lal Qila) is one of
Delhi's top tourist sights. A brilliant red sandstone fort built by
the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan (who also built Agra's Taj Mahal) as his ruling palace. Completed
in 1648, the years since have not treated the buildings kindly: the
rooms have long since been stripped of all objects, the marble
inlays are long gone and quite a few buildings are off limits.
Still, the scale remains imposing and the gardens are kept lush and
green even in midwinter. Major buildings within include:
- Chatta Chowk (Covered Bazaar) – True to the
name, this is a covered bazaar between the gate and the fort
itself, now filled with souvenir hawkers.
- Diwan-i-Am (Hall of Public Audience) – This
building separates the outer court from the inner court, and has a
marble platform for the emperor's throne.
- Hayat Baksh Bagh (Life-Bestowing Gardens) –
Once a grand garden of full of fountains and streams, now sadly all
dry — only dry channels and acres of green grass remain.
- Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience) –
Built completely of marble, this is where the emperor received
special visitors.
- Khas Mahal (Private Palace) – The Emperor's
main residence. The octagonal Mussaman Burj tower
looks out toward the Yamuna River, and is where the Emperor used to
appear before the public for each morning.
- Rang Mahal (Colour Palace) – The residence of
the Sultan's main wife.
- Mumtaz Mahal (Jewel Palace) – Contained six
apartments for the Sultan's harem. Now used as a museum of court
textiles, carpets, weapons, etc (free).
- Daawat Khana. A minor palace at the northmost
end of the Fort, this was originally the residence of a prince, but
it was converted into a tea house by the British, a function it
continues today. Basic meals go for around 60 rupees, drinks 10-20
rupees, and it also has the cleanest toilets around.
- Swatantra Sangrama Sangrahalaya (Museum of the
Independence Movement) – To the left after the Chatta Chowk, this
is a reasonably well-presented museum on the history of
independence activism in India, starting from the Mutiny of 1857
all the way to Gandhi.
The only open entrance is Lahore Gate, on the
west side. Security in and around the Fort is very heavy, as it was
the scene of a terrorist attack in 2000 that killed three people.
Bags are allowed, but they'll be X-rayed and you'll be patted down.
Tickets cost 10/250 rupees for Indians/foreigners, photography
free, video cameras 25 rupees extra. Open sunrise to sunset daily
except Monday. Allow for three to four hours in your schedule in
case of long weekends and national holidays as lot of tourists
flock around then. The most scenic way of reaching the fort is to
take the Metro to Chawri Bazaar and then a cycle-rickshaw through
the incredibly packed bazaar to the Fort (price negotiable, aim for
20 rupees).
The fort has a light and sound show (50 rupees)
in the evenings from 7:30PM-9PM, depending on the season.
Be careful buying tickets at the booth, as the ticket sellers
will attempt to shortchange you. Try to have a small bill. Due to
enhanced security the parking can be a bit tricky as the walk from
the now distanced away parking at nearby alternative slots is quite
a bit. The congested traffic makes crossing the road even
trickier.
Humayun's Tomb in south Delhi, near Hazrat
Nizamuddin station, is one of Delhi's three UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Open daily from sunrise to sunset, entry is 10/250 rupees
Indians/foreigners.
The tomb is in large, immaculately maintained gardens in the
Persian Char Bagh (four corners) style that were
thoroughly renovated in 2003 with the Aga Khan's help and are
consequently probably the best in Delhi. As you enter the complex,
the first major structure on your right is the bulbous, octagonal
tomb of Iza Khan, a court noble who built it in
his own lifetime, some 20 years before Humayun's tomb. As you pass
through the first gate, you will glimpse the dome of the tomb and
enter a floral path leading to the second (West) gate, which now
acts as the entrance to the giant central garden.
The centerpiece is the eponymous tomb of
Humayun, the second Mughal emperor. Built starting in
1562, it was the first major Mughal structure in the city and has
been described as a predecessor or prototype of Agra's Taj Mahal. The structures are, indeed,
stylistically similar, although Humayun's Tomb is built from red
sandstone, not white marble, and was built by a wife grieving for
her husband, not the other way around. You can climb up to the
second level (the stairs on the west side are very steep, those on
the south side less so), and on the south side you will find the
entrance into the main crypt where Humayun is buried.
Before you leave, be sure to visit the South Gate, the original
royal entrance, from where you can get picture-postcard views
without too many tourists in the way. In the southeast corner is
the Barber's Tomb, also built in the same style.
Historians believe that the emperor's favorite barber is buried in
this picturesque tomb made of red and grey sandstone.
Ala-i-Darwaza (left), Imam Zamin's tomb (right) and Qutb Minar in
the background
Intricately carved alcove, Tomb of Iltutmish
Calligraphy, Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque
This complex in Mehrauli, south Delhi, houses structures dating
from the Slave Dynasty (1206-1290) and is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The gardens are kept in excellent shape, making this a popular
relaxation and picnic spot. Open daily from sunrise to sunset,
entry is 20/250 rupees Indians/foreigners. Light-and-sound show
held most nights after sunset.
- Qutub Minar – The most famous structure on
grounds, this 72.5m minaret was the tallest "skyscraper" in the
world when built (1193-1368) - it was constructed on the orders of
Qutb-ud-din Aybak. Delicately carved, it has been astonishingly
well-preserved and is still an awe-inspiring sight today. It's
often visible from air when flying into IGI airport! (Sticklers for
archaeological truth will, however, note that the top of the tower
has twice been rebuilt after an earthquake, and the base has been
restored more recently.) While entry into the tower itself is no
longer permitted, for 10 rupees per 5 min you can view the scenery
via a little webcam on top.
- Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque. Delhi's first and
grandest mosque, now mostly in ruins, but many parts of the complex
are still standing and the sandstone decorations are still
impressive. Check out the extraordinarily ornate carvings near the
tomb of Iltutmish on the west side of the
complex.
- Iron Pillar is in the center of the mosque.
True to its name, this is a 7-meter iron pillar erected c. 400 AD
by Chandragupta II Vikramaditya, also known as "he, by the
breezes of whose prowess the southern ocean is even still
perfumed" according to the inscription carved on the base.
Alas, Chandragupta II's perfume has long since faded, but to the
amazement of metallurgists everywhere, his pillar is still going
strong, after 1,600 years.
- Ala-i-Minar – Ala-ud-din-Khilji set out to
build a tower twice as high as the Qutub Minar, but died after a
mere 24.5m was complete. The first story stands to this day.
- Ala-i-Darwaza – This square, domed building
once acted as the entrance to the mosque, but is now tucked away
behind the minar. Inlaid marble decorations and latticed stone
screens.
- Tomb of Imam Zamin – Outside the main complex,
next to the Ala-i-Darzawa, this octagonal tomb commemorates a
Turkestani iman who was based in the mosque during the reign of
Sikandar Lodi.
- Rajpath – This is a main parade route that
leads to the President's residence (Rashtrapati
Bhavan). Don't miss the splendid India
Gate, and the many grassy lawns. Especially nice in the
evenings and at night when the buildings are lit and the vendors
come out to supply the many picnicking families.
- Rajghat Memorial of Mahatma Gandhi [9] - check
for closure dates/security checks around national
holidays/gandhiji's death anniversary (30th Jan).
- Lodhi Estate
- Nehru House 'Teen Murti Bhavan'. This is the
house of the first Prime Minister of India. Remarkably well
preserved with most of paraphernalia intact. Was used by the
Commander-in-chief of the Indian Army before Indian Independence.
Free entrance.
- India Gate. This monument has been built as a
memorial for the Indian soldiers who died in World War I. There is
also a fire ("eternal flame") burning for all fallen Indian
soldiers.
- Parliament House
- Lodhi Garden is a peaceful park in the heart
of New Delhi. Lodhi garden is ideal for morning walks in the hot
season and for afternoon strolls and picnics during the cooler
months
- Nehru Park is a large park in the South Delhi
neighborhood of Chankayapuri
- India Habitat Center, Lodhi Road, +91
(0) 11 2468 2001 (thru 2009), [10]. This center
though not a museum in the strictest sense of the word, is most
noted for its ever-changing art exhibits, plays and films, as well
as an international selection of food items in its food court.Only
members can avail of the dining facilities at its following two
restaurants-Dilli-O-Dilli & the Oriental octopus wheras he
eatopia and the American Diner are accessible to all.
- International Doll's Museum, Nehru House, 4
Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg. +91 (0) 11 2331 6970 (thru 6974),
[11]. T-S 10AM-6PM. A
museum of dolls from all over the country. You get to see the
costumes and art from all over India, as well as some nice crafts.
10 rupees.
- National Museum, Janpath, [12]. The here
layout is a labyrinthine and the presentation won't win any awards,
but the collection is unparalleled and contains some true
masterpieces. The section on the Indus Valley Culture and the one
on Buddhist Heritage is most informative. The museum also showcases
the arts and handicrafts from different regions of India. Keep an
eye out for the 4600-year-old Harappan temple dancer, the
Gandhara-era standing Buddha with Greek hair and a Roman toga, the
stunning miniature painting gallery, and the giant temple chariot
parked outside.
An informative place for all interested in knowing more about
Indian culture and history.
Entry 300 rupees for foreigners (includes useful audioguide), 10
rupees Indians (optional audioguide Rs.150 extra), 1 rupees for
Indian Students, plus 300 rupees if you want to use a camera.
Decent restaurant on the second floor (lunch buffet 100 rupee).
Open Tu-Su 10AM-5PM.
National Science Centre – Gate No. 1, Pragati
Maidan. Although the name is too grand, the museum is definitely a
must see for science enthusiasts, especially those who are young. A
good place to refresh your basics, particularly in Physics. Has a
recently built section on DNA Science and also a section on
Dinosaurs. A section on ancient Indian Science and Technology,
including Vedic Mathematics & Ayurveda. The "Energy Ball"
display near the entrance is interesting and perhaps the most
captivating of all. A section on Electronic Technologies sponsored
by Samsung is also a must see.
- National Railway Museum, Chanakyapuri, [13] +91 11 2688
1816 houses a collection of Indian trains from the past to the
present - a worthwhile look into India's proud railway heritage.
The collection includes carriages belonging to Indian potentates
and British viceroys. Children can ride the small train that
circumnavigates the museum. There is a small cafe on the premises.
Open 9:30AM-7:30PM (Apr - Sept) and 9:30AM-5:30PM (Oct-Mar). Closed
Mondays and national holidays.
- Teen Murti Bhavan former residence of India's
first prime minister, Jawaharlal Nehru, now a museum of his life.
Includes a Planetarium.
- Tibet House, 1 Institutional Area, Lodhi Road,
+91 (0) 11 4611 515. thouse@nde.vsnl.net.in.
Established by HH Dalai Lama with the aim of preserving the
cultural heritage of Tibet.
There is a museum, exhibition space and library.
- Bahá'í Lotus Temple, Kalkaji, South Delhi, [14]. Shaped
like a lotus bud with 27 petals, this stunning temple suspended
above milky-blue ponds is surely one of the most magnificent
monuments ever made from concrete -- but there is very little to
see inside. The lush park around is well landscaped but mostly
off-limits. Free entry. Open Tue-Sun 9 AM-7 PM summer, 9 AM-5:30 PM
winter.
- Chhattarpur Mandir Huge & beautiful temple
complex with a big surrounding campus - located near Mehrauli area
of South Delhi.
- Gurudwara Bangla Sahib[15], just off Baba Kharak Singh
Marg near Connaught Place, is the main gurudwara for the many Sikhs
of Delhi. You will need to cover your head (scarves provided for
free) and stash your shoes in the shoe storage run by volunteers
(also free).
- Gurudwara Sis Ganj, Chandni Chowk (Old
Delhi). An important Sikh place of worship. Built on the spot
where their ninth guru, Guru Tegh Bahadur, was beheaded on the
orders of the mughal emperor Aurangzeb, it is an oasis of calm in
the chaos of Old Delhi's Chandni Chowk. You will need to cover your
head (scarves provided for free) and stash your shoes in the shoe
storage run by volunteers (also free).
- Sacred Heart Cathedral, 1 Ashok Place, off
Baba Kharak singh Marg and Bhai Veer Singh Marg near Connaught
Place near to Gurdwara Bangla Sahib. It is the biggest church in
terms of structure and also the headquarters of the Delhi Catholic
Archdiocese. A must visit to enjoy the beutiful architecture and
pristine beuty.
- Cathdral Church of Redemption Address: Church
Lane, Near Rashtrapati Bhawan. It is the headquarters of the Church
of North India, Delhi Diocese. Built by Henry Medd between 1927 and
1935 it is a fine example of Colonial architecture.
- St. Peter's Cathedral Bhai Veer Singh Marg,
near St Columbas' school the headquarters of the Jacobite Syrian
Orthodox church in Delhi. It is known as the Antioch of the East
and is a fine example of Oriental architecture blended with
modernity.
- ISKCON (Hare Krishna) temple, at East of
Kailash – Centre for Krishna Consciousness, it has robotic shows
and multimedia presentations, apart from the traditional temple
complex. Lively atmosphere and excellent tasting sweets - and the
delicious Govinda's restaurant is on site.
- Jama Masjid, opposite the Red fort, next to
Chandni Chowk in Old Delhi (Metro: Chawri Bazaar) – The
largest mosque in India and a must-see while in Delhi. Entry is
free, although you'll be charged 200 rupees if you have a camera
with you. You can climb to the top of the minaret for 20 rupees.
The climb is steep, dark and somewhat claustrophobic, but you'll
get great views over the complex and the city. You'll need to cover
up your shoulders and legs (scarves and lungis available for
rental), and take off your shoes (expect to tip the shoe minder, 5
rupees is plenty). Open from 7AM to sunset, but note that tourists
are not allowed in from 12:15PM-1:45PM or in the half-hour before
sunset. Pictures should not be taken during prayer hours. If you're
going to sit down don't look too comfortable. Certainly don't eat
or become too engrossed in any reading material you may be carrying
- the rule is that non-Muslims must make their visits brief and
guards will usher along visitors who linger.
- Lakshmi Narayan Temple or popularly known as
Birla Mandir, this temple is located next to Connaught Place. It is
a big impressive Hindu temple complex. Closest Metro - Rajiv Chowk
(Yellow Line). It will take you 45 minutes to visit, and you will
not be able to take pictures from inside the Temple. With a great
park behind it, it is an oasis of calm from Delhi. Its multiple
shrines and paintings (often) have English explanations. Take your
shoes off at the entrance.
- Swaminarayan Akshardham Temple, off National
Highway 24 (Metro Akshardham), East Delhi, [16]. Completed in 2005 by
the socio-spiritual organization BAPS, no expense has been spared
in decorating this large and elaborate temple carved of red
sandstone. The central monument, built without any steel, houses an
11-ft golden statue of the founder of the Swaminarayan faith,
Bhagwan Swaminarayan. The Premvati food court on the grounds serve
up fast, cheap, huge but mediocre portions of vegetarian food, 75
rupees for a thali. There is a strict ban on all
electronic items, cameras, tobacco and pretty much everything
except the clothes on your back. You can leave your worldly
belongings in the cloakroom outside. Free entry, guide booklet is 5
rupees, access to multimedia exhibitions 125 rupees. Allow at least
three-four hours to explore it all. Open Tu-Su 9AM-7PM.
- Sai Baba Temple, 17,Institutional Area, Lodhi
Road, [17]. Although there are many
Shirdi Sai Baba Temples in and around Delhi, the one located at
Lodhi Road is the oldest. Temple Opens at 5AM. Kakad Aarti 5.15AM.
Mangal SNAN 6AM. Noon Aarti at 12noon. Doop Aarti Evening Prayer
6.30PM. Shej Aarti at Night 9.30PM.
- Jawaharlal Nehru University,(JNU) Campus – Not
usually considered a"place of interest"for tourists , this
one-of-a-kind campus of the premier National University remains a
hidden gem of the city. The campus is hilly and rocky and some
areas look more like a jungle with peacocks. The hostels represent
the geographical vastness of India as they are named after Indian
Rivers. For instance Godavari and Ganga. Specific areas of the
campus are named after a particular geographical region in India.
For instance Uttarakhand and Dakshinapuram. Some of the
non-scholarly attractions of India's best University include 24x7,
an eating joint which is open, as its name suggests, is open round
the clock. Mamu Ka Dhaba, an eating joint owned and operated by a
Phd. alumnus of the University! The uniqueness of this dhaba
doesn't end here. It serves traditional food originating from the
state of Bihar, including Chokhas, jhalmuri, and Ghugni
(practically impossible to find anywhere else).
For a visit to the campus, board bus # 615 from Connaught
Place.
- Majnu ka Tilla Tibetan Colony – This is one of
the more accessible Tibetan resettlement areas in India, and
certainly a nice piece of variety for Delhi. To get there head
north along Ring Road just past Majnu ka Tilla Gurudwara, or take
the Metro to Vidhan Sabha station, and a cycle-rickshaw is 15
rupees from there.
Tourists in Connaught Place
Pigeons in Connaught Place, early morning
- Take the Footloose in Old Delhi half day
walking tour around Old Delhi.
- Take a walk at Connaught Place, the heart of
New Delhi. The British-designed colonial equivalent of a shopping
mall, it's laid out in two concentric rings divided into blocks,
all bursting with shops and lots of pampered pigeons waddling
about. Long neglected, the area received a major shot in the arm
after the opening of the major Metro junction of Rajiv
Chowk under it, and it's going more upmarket by the day.
At the centre is a small but pleasant park, while on one edge is
the notorious Palika Bazaar, an underground den of
cheap wares, many pirated or smuggled from overseas. The area is
surrounded by tall office buildings on nearly all sides. Train fans
will want to check out the Metro Museum inside the
station, open 10 AM-4 PM Tue-Sun (free with valid Metro ticket).
Quite simply the best place to hang out!
- Visit the International trade fair exhibition
centre at Pragati Maidan.
Buy
Delhi is a shopper's heaven, but only if you're not afraid to
haggle and bump elbows in bazaars. Western-style malls and shopping
emporiums are creeping in on the outskirts (esp. Gurgaon, Noida), but there's little Indian about these
sanitized shopping experiences, or the goods in them. Until a few
years ago, all shops closed on Sunday. While rules have been
relaxed, many districts (eg. Connaught Place) are still mostly
shuttered. Saturday is the the main shopping day and hence also the
most crowded.
Start your shopping tour of Delhi with a visit to
Connaught Place [18], a rather
unique cross between a European shopping arcade, an Indian bazaar
and an upmarket shopping mall. At the intersection of the Yellow
and Blue Lines of the Delhi Metro[19],
it's easy to get to. With all shops laid out in two circles, it's
easy to get around and explore.
- Aap ki Pasand Tea Shop, Sterling House, 15
Netaji Subhash Marg, Daryaganj (Opposite the post office, walking
distance from Red Fort), ☎ +91 11 23260373, [20]. A great place to
sample Indian chai and the exotic Darjeeling and Assam teas and buy
tea in handcrafted fabric bags. Located in an old colonial era
building, its teas have been savored by Bill Clinton, Gorbachov,
Koizumi and are taken as official state gifts of India.
Shopping Malls in Capital region
Delhi and capital region (Noida, Gurgaon, Ghaziabad, Faridabad)
has recently witnessed the opening of lot of shopping Malls, which
can be compared to any good malls in the world. Most of these Malls
have food court and Multiplexes. You can find Multiplexes at every
5 square meter. Some of these malls include:
TDI Mall, Lajpat Nagar DLF Promenade, Vasant Kunj DLF Place,
Saket City Walk, Saket Pacific Mall, Anand Vihar bus terminous with
IMAX theatre Shipra Mall, Ghaziabad Centerstage Mall, Noida Great
India Place, Noida Galaxy, Ghaziabad Fun Republic, Motinagar V3S
Mall, Vikas Marg Carnival Country Mall, Ghaziabad Sahara Mall,
Gurgaon City Centre, Gurgaon MGF Metropolitan, Gurgaon DLF
Ambience, Gurgaon Ansal Plaza, Khelgaon Marg Ansal Plaza, Ghaziabad
Ansal Plaza, South Extension Part 2 (August Kranti Marg) East Delhi
Mall, Ghaziabad East End Mall, Ghaziabad TDI mall, Rajouri
Garden
Many more malls are under construction and will be completed
soon.
- Connaught Place – Many Western-style shops are
here that have nice products for Indian prices. Check out "The
Bookworm" and "Will's clothing".
- Paharganj market, – Oriented toward
backpackers, this strip of shops sells items such as shawls,
tablas, rugs, jewelry, etc. This is right opposite New Delhi
Railway Station.
- Central Market, Lajpat Nagar – Middle-class
Indians do their shopping here. Great deals for apparel, whether
ethnic Indian or otherwise.
- Sarojini Nagar market is great for export
surplus garments, and green grocery.
- Khan Market is where the foreign diplomats and
Tibetan lama's go for lunch and to shop for dog supplies, groceries
(great choice of vegetables), clothes (upper class Indian style,
not expensive) and books (many bookshops).
- Janpath is a bargain-hunter's dream and just a
two minute walk from Connaught place. Think of it as a vast flea
market, where you can get all kinds of knick-knacks and clothes.
Janpath is not a place for those unwilling or unable to bargain
ruthlessly. Also, as in any flea market, quality will vary greatly.
There are also some bookshops.
- Palika Bazaar, Connaught Place – This is a
large underground market in the center of Connaught Place. The air
here is bad and the quality of products low. One can hunt for DVDs,
VCDs and Audio CDs of Hindi, English and a few regional and foreign
language films and PC-based games.
- Chandni Chowk, Metro Yellow Line. The heart of
Old Delhi, this is the place to go for the full-on Indian
experience of crowded, twisting alleys and tiny shops. The
Fountain serves as a useful orientation point, and
there are great Delhi-style snacks to be found in the vicinity too
(see Eat).
- Cottage Emporium, located near
Connaught Place, is the main government-run
location for selling handicrafts from all over the country. The
prices are a little more than what you'd find if you went bargain
hunting, but you can shop in air-conditioned comfort and all of the
sales people speak English. The quality of items is quite good. You
can pay with credit cards.
- The state emporium is the state's equivalent of a Cottage. They
are all located on Baba Kharak Singh Marg, one of
the radial streets coming off of Connaught Place, and each state
specializes in certain kinds of crafts. Some are better priced than
others, and you can bargain a little. Many of them will take credit
cards.
- Dilli Haat, located in South Delhi near the
All India Institute of Medical Sciences (AIIMS),
is a place where crafts fairs happen every few weeks. It is a
wonderful place to get crafts from all over the country. What is
distinctive here is that the artists themselves come to sell their
goods, so your money goes directly to them, rather than to
middlemen. Some bargaining may be necessary if you want the best
price. Prices are higher than elsewhere, but the modest entry fee
keeps out beggars, ripoff artists, and most touts. Many visitors
find the mellow atmosphere worth the extra cost of shopping here.
It also has a section called Foods of India. This has a huge number
of restaurants, each showcasing the food of a particular state of
India. (Most of them give a mix of Chinese and Indian food, but
state delicacies are also included). This section is a must-go for
the foodie cum tourist.
- Ansal Plaza is a mall and a favorite shopping
haunt for the local middle/upper class and it is in South Delhi.
This is a great place to get bargains on international brand
clothing and jeans (as these tend to be 30-50% cheaper than in the
West depending on the brand and time of year). The mall also houses
many Indian and Western eateries (including McDonald's).
International brands like Guess, Marks & Spencer, United Colors
of Benetton, Lacoste and Apple have retail outlets here.
- South Extension is another shopping mecca in
South Delhi but it is not a single mall. It is spread out over a
large area and many international brands have stores here.
International brands include the likes of Mango, Nautica, United
Colors of Benetton, Levis, etc.
- Karol Bagh reputed to be the largest shopping
area in Asia with 20,000 shops and traders. There are many tailors
experienced in western styles (suits etc). There is also a growing
number of hotels here.
- Sarojini Nagar Market reputed to be the
largest outdoor, pedestrianized shopping area in
Delhi. Huge bargains on all sorts of western and Indian wear. It is
known by expatriate teens as THE shopping area for affordable
current hip fashion trends. If you are lucky you can also get many
reputed western brands here (export surplus) Also a great market
for fresh fruits, vegetables and household goods!
- Select City Walk is the largest mall in New
Delhi. Located in Saket (South Delhi), it houses many top-end
international retailers. While expensive, you can still find better
bargains for higher end retail products here than in the west, as
prices tend to be slightly cheaper.
Books
The Indian book industry is huge, producing annually about
15,000 books in English, and obviously far more in Hindi and other
native languages. Delhi is hub of this industry, so small,
specialist bookstores abound. Locally produced books can be very
inexpensive and many popular Western titles are published and
available here for a fraction of their original cost.
- Khan Market – This is a shopping area for
local diplomats. There are many book shops here that have a wide
selection at reasonable prices.
- Oxford Bookstore, First floor, Statesman
House, Barakhamba Road (near Connaught Place),
[21]. One of Delhi's largest and most modern bookstores. It has
an emphasis on art and culture. The great Cha Bar
allows you to read any book from the shelves and relax with a cup
of tea. Available in several dozen varieties from 30 rupees up.
Priced at regular prices. Open daily.
- Mid Land Bookshop, South Extension and
Aurbindo Place. Very similar to bookshops in Khan Market, but at
better prices.
- Galgotia and Sons, Cannaught Place. A more
disorganized bookstore, but with an excellent variety of books
available at excellent prices.
- The Bookworm, Connaught Place – If you are
more adventurous and want a 'localized' experience with the
best books published in India you can go to:
- Nai Sarak (near Chawari Bazaar) (use Chawari
Bazaar or Chandani Chowk metro stations on yellow line) has narrow
gullies where most publishers are based. This is very popular with
students, particularly college students as course books are
available here. They carry books in nearly all major languages
spoken in India. Don't expect bargaining to work here as
shopkeepers are too busy to argue. (The shopkeepers do more
business than any proper branded shop, selling at least 5,000 books
daily.) There are also many whole sellers. Very few books will be
on display and you need to ask for a particular type of book as the
variety of books sold is huge. Most books are original and the
shopkeepers get very irritated if you question the book's
genuineness. You can either take a rickshaw or walk. One of Delhi's
oldest shopping complexes, you can find any book there after a day
of searching. Also good areas for sightseeing.
- Daryaganj and Asaf Ali Road – A little better
organized, but otherwise very similar to Nai Sarak. Hindi Book
Centre on Asaf Ali road is very famous and one can find practically
every Hindi book there and they also have a very good
website : [22]
- Nehru Place, [23]. An IT hardware market
complex and a perfect place for finding gadgets at very cheap
rates. It is also a huge marketplace for both pirated and original
software. Any computer-related accessory can be found here, but
parking is a monumental problem. Beware of congestion and
pickpockets. Open Mon-Sat.
- District Center, Janak Puri (Janak Puri West Metro
Station). Also known as mini Nehru Place. You will get
computer goods quite close to the prices available in Nehru Place.
Parking is not big a problem. Generally, open seven days a
week.
Eat
Delhiites complain about many things in their city, but the
food will satisfy even the most demanding gourmet.
Not only can you find some of the best Indian food on the
subcontinent, there is also an increasing number of excellent (if
often pricey) international restaurants offering cuisine from
around the world. When ordering, do remember that Delhi is about
1000 km from the nearest ocean, so vegetarian, chicken and mutton
dishes are the way to go.
Delhi has arguably the best street food in
India. However, if you're not local (and even if you are), it's not
uncommon to get diarrhea or worse. Meat can be particularly risky,
especially in summer.
|
Chaat
If you want to eat chaat, the North Indian
street side snack food, Delhi is the place to be. Like Spanish
tapas or Greek mezze, chaat can cover a vast
variety of things, but Delhi style tends to mean a deep-fried
pastry shell, stuffed after cooking with potatoes, lentils or
almost anything else. They're then topped with yogurt, chutneys and
chaat masala spice mix and eaten fresh.
Some typical chaat items are paapdi chaat (a mix of
small round fried crispy things with yogurt and other sauces),
paneer tikka (cubes of cottage cheese baked in a
tandoor with spices), pani puri or
golguppa (small round hollow shells filled with a
potato-based filling and a spicy sweet blend of sauces).
|
The best place to go for chaat is the Bengali
Market near Connaught Place in the center
of town. The restaurants are high quality and the food is great.
There are ATMs as well. One of the best known restaurants there is
Nathu's. But for the really good chaat you have to
make your way to Old Delhi, and particularly to
Ashok's near Chawri Bazaar. While connoisseurs
insist that the best chaat is prepared on the street, most
travellers try to find a comfortable middle ground between hygiene
and authenticity.
- Andhra Pradesh Bhavan Canteen, Ashok Road
(near Man Singh Road). Open for lunch and dinner this is a
favorite of local Delhi foodies who are looking for an authentic Andhra meal. They
serve all you can eat veg/non-veg thalis for 60-120 rupees. For
carnivores, you have a variety of non-veg options
(chicken/fish/mutton) but the mutton fry is recommended. The
service is quick and efficient. Another favorite is the Karnataka
Bhavan canteen beside Ansal Plaza near Mool Chand offering all
possible South India food.
- Haldiram's, 1454/2 Chandni Chowk (just
west of the Fountain) and other outlets around town, [24]. This is a famous
manufacturer of Indian snacks and sweets that has now gone global.
This always-packed, two-story outlet in the heart of Chandni Chowk
was its first in Delhi and dates back to 1924. The ground floor
houses a vast array of sweet and sticky Indian confections, while
the first floor has a popular vegetarian restaurant. This is a
great place to try authentic and hygienic Delhi chaat and
other Indian snack foods. Try the Raj Kachori
(pictured left), a mixture of different types of stuffing
with sweetened yogurt and chutneys in an oversized hollow dough
shell. All chaat is under 50 rupees, or you can get a full daily
thali for 90 rupees.
- Tadka, 4986, Ram Dwara Road (side road off of
Main Bazaar), Nehru Bazar, Paharganj. A notably clean restaurant by
Paharganj standards. Serves only vegetarian food, a full thali for
60 rupees. Their tea is really good and their most popular dish is
Paneer B. Masala.
- Nangarg, Rajgur Marg Road (side road off of
Main Bazaar), Paharganj. A really good hole-in-the-wall restaurant
that serves vegetarian and non-vegetarian food for about 60 rupees.
The workers there are genuinely good people, which can be hard to
find in this area. You'll have more luck finding a sign that says
"Veg-Nonveg" than their actual restaurant sign.
- Bitto Tikki Wala (Also known as BTW), Netaji
Subhash Place, Pitampura. The best aloo tikki (potato and vegetable
burger)available in town. It has a branch in Sarita Vihar, Near
Apollo Hospital and Badarpur border.
- Amritsari Kulcha Wala, Paschim Vihar Red
Light, Near Jwala Heri Market. If you are into amritsari kulcha,
you probably can't miss this. People on dieting beware: the amount
of butter that the vendor puts in is huge. However, without it you
will not enjoy the Amritsari Kulcha so much. It is kind of a road
side dhaba or shack. Rs.60 for two kulchas is what he charges. It
is actually on Outer Ring Road, Adjoining to a park wall. You can
ask anybody about the Kulcha wala & they will be able to tell
you the direction in Paschim Vihar / Meera Vihar Outer Ring
Road.
- Egg parantha Wala, Opposite to Surya hotel,
Lajpat Nagar. This guy owns a shack and is running the parantha
business for ages.
Mid-range
You will find McDonalds, KFC, Subway and Pizza Hut scattered at
various locations (in malls and otherwise) throughout the city. The
Indian menus (no beef, lots of veggie options) can be interesting
even if you would otherwise steer clear. 100 rupees for a full
serve.
- Club India Cafe, 4797, Second Floor, 6 Tooti
Chowk (next to vegetable market), Paharganj. Don't be put
off by the cramped stairway up. This is a clean and bright little
haven of peace with birds-eye views of the chaos below. The menu
spans the gamut but the thing to try is the Japanese food, prepared
under the watchful eye of the Japanese owner. 100-200 rupees.
- Karim's, Jama Masjid, Gali Kababian, tel.
+91-11-23269880, [25]. As you'd expect
from a restaurant on Kebab Lane, the name of the game here is
Mughal-style meat (mutton and chicken), served up since 1913 and
still going strong. Favorites include Badam Pasanda
(boneless mutton cooked with yogurt, almonds and spices) and
Chicken Noor Jahan, but if you're really hungry,
try Tandoori Bakra — an entire stuffed goat (4,500 rupees,
24 hours notice and down payment required). And a style tip: some
of the dishes have huge puddles of oil on top, which you're
supposed to drain off before eating. Under 200 rupees at the
original; more at the branches.
- Moti Mahal Deluxe, M-30, Greater Kailash Part
I, tel # 6412467 (and other outlets). Famous for their tandoori
chicken and North Indian food. Their family-sized naan is delicious
and the size of a 4 year old child.
- Nirula's, L-Block, Connaught Place,
+91-11-23322419, [26]. India's answer to
McDonald's, this serves both Indian and Western fare. Has many
other branches throughout the country.
- Sagar Ratna Shop No 24, Defence Colony Market,
Defence Colony, New Delhi - 110024 +91 11 2433 3815,
+91 11 2155 1097 – Considered by many to be the best place
for authentic South Indian food, Sagar does justice to the
reputation. The menu features dosas, idlis,
vadas, uttapams, rasam and
thalis. A/C. There's likely to be a queue for seats during
peak hours and definitely on Tuesday nights. The upmarket version
(quieter, better laid out and more expensive) is at Sagar Ratna,
Ashok Hotel, 50-B Chanakyapuri +91 11 2611 0101 . Both
also have many other branches.
- Saravana Bhavan, 46 Janpath, +91 11
2331 7755 +91 11 2331 6060, [27]. A good South Indian
joint located in Janpath very close to Connaught Place. They are a
Chennai chain operating in
Delhi. If you go at lunch time, prepare to wait a while. The
various dosas are recommended, as well as the thalis (meals) and
the sweet dishes.
- Sri Balaji Restaurant, 17A/41, W.E.A.
Gurudwara Road, Karol Bagh, serves North and South Indian food for
good prices, but offers only veg food.
- On tighter budgets, the Pindi or
Havemore are recommended at Pandara Park.
- Khan Chacha, 75, Middle lane, Khan Market – A
Roomali Rolls and Kabab stand serving chicken, mutton and paneer
(cottage cheese) kebab rolls. Very popular with Delhites
- Bukhara, Maurya Sheraton – Regularly tops the
charts as India's best restaurant (and certainly among the
priciest), the roast lamb and the Bukhara Dal here are
legendary. Always make reservations or be ready to stand in a queue
(similar to queues at an airport) for about two hours. 2000+
rupees.
- Chor Bizarre, Hotel Broadway, 4/15A Asaf Ali
Rd, [28]. Now
franchised worldwide, the original restaurant serves Kashmiri food
in an eclectic surrounding like a chor bazaar (thieves
market). The buffet is laid out inside an old car! 300 rupees for a
full meal.
- Naivedhyam, Hauz Khas Village. Offers quality
South Indian meals and service at slightly higher prices.
- Punjabi by Nature, 11 Basant Lok, Vasant
Vihar, tel. 011-5151-6665. One of Delhi's best-known Punjabi
restaurants. 500 rupees or so, more if you order seafood.
Italian
- T.L.R. Cafe & Kitchen, 31 Hauz Khas
Village, near Green Park and Aurobindo Place in South Delhi.
Popular among tourists, expats and locals alike. Continental menu
featuring a variety of pastas and panini's. Kitchen open 11a.m. to
11p.m. daily. Also on menu, Spanish, Moroccan and American
cuisines, plus desserts, drinks and more. www.tlrcafe.com
- The Big Chill, Khan Market and East of
Kailash, is popular with a young crowd for great smoothies, ice
creams, cheesecakes and Italian food. Expect a waiting line during
lunch at Saturdays.
- Slice of Italy, affordable authentic Italian
food, a connoisseur's delight. Located near M2k Pitampura (North
Delhi) and various other locations in Delhi.
- Flavours of Italy is located near the
Moolchand Flyover.
- Little Italy is in the Defence Colony
Market.
- The West View at Maurya Sheraton. Italian
food.
- Olive features Italian food and is near the
Qutub Minar.
- Diva, at Greater Kailash Pt.2, features
Italian food.
- San Gimignano, at Imperial Hotel, features
Italian food.
- La Piazza is an Italian restaurant at the
Hyatt Regency. Italian food.
- Satoria Very authentic Italian food, great
pizzas, carpaccio, pasta and wines. Mains are about 500 INR.
Located in Basant Lok, Vasant Vihar in south of Delhi.
Japanese
- Enoki, The Grand, Nelson Mandela Rd, Vasant
Kunj-II, [29].
Pseudo-rustic yakitori (Japanese chicken kebab) restaurant
offering fairly authentic food, including a limited range of sushi
and sake. 1000+ rupees.
- Sakura, Hotel Metropolitan, Bangla Sahib Marg,
[30]. Ranked
as the finest Japanese restaurant in India, this restaurant is very
well known for its excellent food. But it also carries the tag of
being one of the most expensive restaurants in India, according to
many THE most expensive.
- Side Wok, Khan Market, good-value japanese,
chinese and other asiatic food. Some choice of Sushi. Beautiful
decor. No alcohol. Mains about 400 INR.
- Tamura, D Block Market, Vasant Vihar. Less
glamorous than the five star Japanese Restaurants in Delhi, Tamura
offers authentic, unpretentious Japanese cuisine at affordable
prices. With its traditional seating style, rice paper and bamboo
decor, and a shelf filled with Japanese books and comics available
for patrons to peruse while waiting, Tamura has a distinctive
ex-patriot feel to it. Indeed, Tamura is a favorite for Japanese
ex-patriots living in Delhi as well as for visiting tourists. The
menu offers many of the tried and tested favorites including
various Tempura and Udon dishes as well as a limited range of
Sushi, however it also offers fare that generally does not travel
outside Japan, such as the Hamburg Steak. Average meal for one will
range from Rs 500-800.
Middle Eastern
- Felafel Man, Main Bazaar, Paharganj. About a
10 minunite walk down Main Bazaar from New Delhi train station,
this little shop sells excellent falafel rolls and Sabeekh. Made
with love and patience by the multilingual Shimon, the rolls come
with superb hummus, tahini and mineral water washed vegies. Don't
forget to wash it down with the very filling (almost a meal in
itself) seasonal fruit lassi, so thick it takes some effort to suck
it up the straws.
Thai
Delhiites have eagerly adopted Thai food into their culinary
pantheon, although the recipes and ingredients are often rather
Indianized.
- EGO Thai, Friends Colony Market.
- Culinaire, Greater Kailash 2
- Chilli Seasons, Lodhi Colony market
- Ban Thai, Oberoi.
- Thai Wok, Mehrauli, tel:26644289. Should go at
night for a view of the lit up Qutab Minar.
- The Kitchen, Khan Market tel: 011 4175
7960/7961
- Turquoise Cottage, 81/3 Adhchini, Sri
Aurobindo Marg, South Delhi, tel. 011-2685-3896, [31]. True to the
name, the decor is turquoise and stylishly rustic, but the food is
Thai-Chinese and, while somewhat adapted to Indian tastes, quite
tasty. Also check out the popular The Other Side bar
downstairs. Reservations recommended. 500 rupees.
Tibetan Food – Delicious,finger lickin' good
Tibetan food is available at The Tibetan Kitchen,
near Shivaji Stadium (which actually is a Bus Stand!) Connaught
Place. The joint is run by Tibetan refugees.
Chinese
After Indian Cuisine, Chinese is Delhi's second most popular
fare. For a long time, only Indianized Chinese was available, but
extremely high-quality options are available today.
The Yum Yum Tree – As much as a fantasy-land as
an eatery, it's easily one of the largest Chinese restaurants in
the city. The influence here is from Singapore, and the Dim Sum
Menu is second to none. The cuisine here is extremely high quality,
and the prices more or less affordable. Sectioned into separate
areas, pick the Grill for a quick lunch, splurge at the Formal
Dining Area for dinner, or hang out at the funky Bar on a weekend.
New Friends Colony, 011-42602020.
Nan King – Chinese food which is suprisingly
different from the West but very good. Nan King is a good spot and
offers a private lounge. Good for a party or to wind up a
holiday.
Drink
Delhi's nightlife scene has undergone a total transformation in
the last decade. There are plenty of modern, cosmopolitan joints
out to separate you from your rupees. In a desperate attempt to
keep the sex ratio vaguely equitable, many lounges and clubs have
couples only policies (that is, no single men or
men-only groups), enforced with varying degrees of strictness.
While everything is theoretically to shut down by 1AM things can
keep going much longer.
- The coffee culture in Delhi consists mostly of large, heavily
standardised chains. The two most common, Barista
[32] and Cafe Coffee
Day [33], can be found in
multiple locations across the city, most notably around Connaught
Place. The partly UK-based Costa Coffee [34] has also made a recent
foray into the market.
- Independent coffee shops are harder to find in Delhi, but they
do exist, and are well worth seeking out. The Open Hand
Cafe in Paharganj, one hundred metres west of the
Metropolis Hotel in Main Bazaar, is a great example: in addition to
excellent coffee that eclipses that available from the chains, they
offer tasty breakfasts and snacks, and free, fast Wi-Fi (ask at the
counter for a password).
- Aap ki Pasand Tea Shop, Sterling House, 15 Netaji
Subhash Marg, Daryaganj (Opposite the post office, walking distance
from Red Fort), ☎ +91 11
23260373, [35]. . A great place to sample Indian chai and the
exotic Darjeeling and Assam teas and purchase the same. Located in
an old colonial era building, its teas have been savored by Bill
Clinton, Gorbachov, Koizumi and are taken as official state gifts
of India. The best tea experience you might have! edit
Hookah/Sheesha
Indian bar food, hookah and an amazing lounge experience. The
crowd that frequents these two places is young, hip and trendy.
- Hookah, Basant Lok (in Priya Cinema
complex), Vasant Vihar, tel. +91-11-41663522. Three-level
bar-restaurant offering surprisingly good (if pricy) Middle Eastern
fare. They offer a wide range of drinks and an even wider range of
flavored water pipes. There is no outdoor seating, nor do they
offer hot drinks.
- Ziya- The Morockin Cafe, Ph:
+91-9212631306/1/2 – This is a chain of neuvo Middle Eastern cafes
that offers a wide range of drinks and food (not to mention the
flavored tobacco). The place is really cost effective, at half the
cost of the above mentioned.
- Aqua - This poolside bar at the Park Hotel
(close to Connaught Place) has a lounge atmosphere and has an
extensive drinks list.
- Aura - At the Claridges
- Decibel One of two clubs in the Samrath Hotel
next to the Ashok Hotel.500 INR cover charge.Chanakyapuri.
- IndoChine's Forbidden City - Singapore chain
that opened in Delhi in 2007. Restaurant (Madame Butterfly)
upstairs serves very good Chinese food. The lounge/bar (BarSaVanh)
is downstairs, very cool ambience outside. Located in South Delhi
(Lado Sarai, adjacent to Qutab Golf Course. Meal for two arond Rs
3,000.
- T.L.R., 31 Hauz Khas Village. Delhi's cozy,
arty refuge for tourists, expats and locals alike comes alive in
the evenings for live gigs, DJ nights, pub quiz, and more. www.tlrcafe.com.
- Orange - This is a nightclub at the Ashoka
Hotel.
- Elevate - Located in Noida adjoining south
delhi. Voted number 35 worldwide by top international Dj's - http://elevateindia.com/ ,
information by - http://www.qacampus.com
- F Bar & Lounge (by Fashion TV) – This
trendy bar and night club is in the Hotel Ashok in Chanakyapuri.
Claimed to be the largest bar in Delhi (per Time Out article
October 2008). Cover charge (redeemable against drinks) Wed, Fri,
Sat is Rs. 2000, other days Rs. 1000.
- The Other Side, 81/3 Adhchini (basement of
Turquoise Cottage), Sri Aurobindo Marg, tel. 011-2685-396.
This smoky brick-walled basement is covered with Western
memorabilia. Eclectic music with an emphasis on rock (expect
anything from Beatles to AC/DC). It's a good crowd, particularly on
Wednesday's media nights. 500 rupees minimum for drinks and food.
Couples only.
- Shalom Cool Mediterranean-themed lounge
bar/restaurant with chill-out music. In N-block market, GK-1.
- Urban Pind/Bar/Cafe Bar/lounge on three
floors. Regular events like Salsa, open bar for 720 INR, electro
night, great expat nights.Greater Kailash I (GK-1), block N, number
4.
- Manre Bar/lounge, at Saket Market, City Mall,
open bar on Thursday for 800 INR.
LGBT Options
As of July 2009, Chapter XVI, Section 377, of the Indian Penal
Code (a piece of legislation in India introduced during British
rule of India, used to criminalize homosexual activity) has been
declared unconstitutional. At this juncture, it remains to be seen
how this will impact what the ruling will have on the smattering of
late night watering holes, which crop up. Due to the underground
and fluid nature of these gathering places, it is not possible to
list these places.
If meeting same gender loving, or gender variant souls is a
must, your best bet is to do your homework, via the internet,
before arriving, as LGBT gathering spaces are not published on
local media.
Delhi offers only a few public spaces, where same gender loving
men can hook up. If you choose to engage in these types of
encounters, use extreme caution - robberies, hustlers, and even
reports of police entrapment and bribery are not unheard of.
Sleep
Budget
Delhi has a large number of hostels, many of them centered
around the tourist/backpacker hubs.
Chandni Chowk
Chandni Chowk originally meaning moonlit square or market, is
one of the oldest and busiest markets in central north Delhi,
India.Chandni Chowk is the major street in the walled city of Old
Delhi, which was originally called Shah Jahanabad. The walled city
which includes the Lal Qilla Red Fort of Delhi was established in
1650 AD, by the Mughal Emperor, Shah Jahan.
Paharganj
Everything a backpacker needs and then some, Main Bazaar
This street, also referred to as Main Bazaar,
is opposite New Delhi railway station and has many cheap hotels.
It's very popular with travelers. A double room with attached
bathroom is 200-300 rupees (or less). Note that the Delhi Metro
exits are on the Ajmeri Gate side of the New Delhi Railway station,
so you'll need to cross over the railway station (Platform Ticket
is not needed for entering the station, see the above article on
train station cons) to go to Paharganj. Main road is very noisy
during day time. Below is a list of a few of the more popular
places:
- Ajay Guest House, 5084-A, Main Bazaar, Paharganj, New Delhi
110055 (Opposite Khanna
Cinema), ☎ :+91(11) 41541226,
+91(11) 23583125 (ajay@anupamhoteliersltd.com,
fax: +91(11) 41541701), [36].
Double rooms cost 250-300Rs (no A/C) or
450-500Rs (with A/C). (latitude,longitude) edit
- Sham Nath Villa bed and breakfast delhi,
12, Sham Nath Marg,
Civil Lines (Opposite
Oberoi Maidens), (shamnathvilla@hotmail.com,
fax: +91-11-23923925), [37]. Double rooms cost 90$(A/C). (latitude,longitude) edit
- Chanchal Deluxe, Aakarshan Road, Behind Sheela Cinema,
Paharganj, Delhi. This
little more expensive than the average Paharganj hotel.
700 rupees. (latitude,longitude) edit
- Sai
Palace, (Middle lane opposite
railway station, Paharganj, Delhi). Rs.200/300. (latitude,longitude) edit
- Hare Rama Guest House, 298 Main
Bazaar (Down the side
road near the Khanna Cinema.), ☎ 2743-3017. This is a really popular hotel and also a
popular place to book nice sleeper buses if you're heading to
Dharamsala or Pushkar. (latitude,longitude) edit
- Metropolis, 1634 Bazaar Hand, ☎ 2351-8074. This hotel is a little more expensive than the
average Paharaganj hotel. It also has a good restaurant.
(latitude,longitude) edit
- Namaskar, 917 Chandiwalan, Main Bazaar, Paharganj, New
Delhi 110055 (located
down a side alley), ☎ +91(11) 23583456,
+91(11) 65263010 , +91(11) 23582233 (hotelnamaskar@hotmail.com),
[38]. Only five minutes from the train station. Be
prepared for a somewhat gloomy hotel, with possibly cock roaches in
the rooms. No sheets or towels. Primary school right next to the
hotel makes sleeping past 8AM nearly impossible. 250Rs for a double room. (latitude,longitude) edit
- Navrang, (on a
side street off main bazaar at the intersection with the vegetable
market), ☎ +91(11)2356-1922. Cheap and cheerful. (latitude,longitude) edit
- Royal Palace, Main Bazaar (200 meters down Main Bazaar from New Delhi
Station before Star Palace Hotel), ☎ +91(11) 2358-6176 (fax: +91(11) 27537103). Clean and pleasant design/style. (latitude,longitude) edit
- Vivek, 1534-50 Main Bazaar, Paharganj, New Delhi
110055 (about a ten
minute walk from the railway station), ☎ 2351-2900, [39]. This has a pleasant rooftop restaurant, but
rather bland food . 300 rupees for a
double room up to 1,200 rupees for deluxe.. (latitude,longitude) edit
- Delhi Hotel - It's a new boutique hotel in
posh colony of New Delhi. An beautifully designed hotel with
affordable, neat, clean & hygienic rooms. Address C23 Greater
Kailash 2, New Delhi 110048, India. [40]
- Hotel Aman and Hotel Anand On Rajguru Road are
known to overcharge foreign tourist.
Majnu ka Tilla
Majnu ka Tilla is a compact Tibetan settlement and the place of
departure and arrival for buses to/from Dharamsala, the home of the Tibetan
Government in Exile and the Dalai Lama. Stay here if you have an
interest in Tibetan culture, politics and religion, or if you need
something quieter (and just slightly more expensive) than
Paharganj.
An auto-rickshaw from New Delhi train station should cost around
50 rupees (use the prepaid stand). The Vidhan Sabha metro station
is also nearby and popular. From there cycle-rickshaws charge 15
rupees and take about five minutes.
- New Peace House. (latitude,longitude) edit
- Peace
House, ☎ 2393-9415. (latitude,longitude) edit
- Lhasa
House, ☎ 2393-9888. (latitude,longitude) edit
- Ida Guest House, ☎ +91-22-2222-1234. (latitude,longitude) edit
- GaKhyil House, ☎ +91-11-238-111-47. (latitude,longitude) edit
Other Areas
- Hotel Tara Palace, Hotel TaraPalace 419, Old Cycle Market,
Chandni Chowk (Opposite
Delhi Parade Ground), ☎ +91-11-23276465 (tarapalace@gmail.com, fax: +91-11-23273555), [41]. checkin: 1200 Hrs; checkout: 1100 Hrs. Hotel
Tara Palace is a friendly budget hotel in New Delhi which provides
free breakfast and free airport pickup. From $35. edit
- New India Hotel, 172 Katra Baryan (Next to the red fort in Old Delhi),
☎ +91 (0)11 235 117. Noisy a/c, rudimentary shower. Bollywood movies
at night which can be somewhat entertaining. 250 rupees for single room and 350 rupees for double
bedroom. (latitude,longitude) edit
- Sunrise Villa, K Block, Kalkaji, New Delhi –
1600 rupees + tax for single room. Free Wi-fi. The food is also
some what OK.
- Hotel silver Arc, Behind Karol Bagh Metro
Station, [[Centrally Located in the heart of the City, 3 Kms form
New Delhi Railway Station, 14 Kms from International Airport and 12
Kms From Domestice Airport.
]] For Booking Call 09873533669 Tariff Starts Rs. 2299/- or 46 $
A/c Room
Mid-range
Delhi's chronic lack of quality hotels has led to a mushrooming
of guest houses of widely varying quality and price. The new
official 'Delhi Bed and Breakfast scheme' has also contributed a
range of private rooms available for bed & breakfast lets. See
the official site of Delhi Tourism and Transportation Development
Corporation at [42] for detailed
information. These rooms range from cheap dumps to classy rooms in
the best neighborhoods of Delhi. A welcome addition to the
accommodation situation in Delhi!
- Caravan Homestay - ☎ +91-9971843131 (caravanhomestay@gmail.com).
Web: http://delhicaravan.com It is a
little Delhi Homestay that houses a friendly Indian family
welcoming you to their little pad. A beautifully maintained
homestay with affordable and clean rooms along with excellent
company. You don't just get a room, you get an experience. A family
that is culturally rooted with the city for the last six decades,
we know it better than most of the people out there and we want to
share it with you. We welcome you to enjoy our true Delhi
hospitality and the marvelous city and you’ll surely be addicted.
Address: 1/13 Single Storey, Tilak Nagar,
New Delhi, India., ☎ +91
9213455982 (delhicaravan@gmail.com).
[43]
- Cabana Hotel - It's a new boutique property in
posh colony of New Delhi. An beautifully designed hotel with
affordable, neat, clean & hygienic rooms. Address R23 Greater
Kailash 1, New Delhi 110048, India. Tel.: +91 11 40747474. Fax: +91
11 40747475 [45]
- Alpine Park - Bed and Breakfast, Sunder Vihar, Punjabi
Bagh, New Delhi 110087, India, ☎ +91-9868482798,
[46]. Alpine Park - Bed and Breakfast
in New Delhi, India is located near Punjabi Bagh - one of the posh
localities in West Delhi. Affordable, convenient and with all the
modern amenities will make you come to this place again and
again 1500 onwards. edit
- Hotel Ashiana, 50 Ara Kashan Road, Ram Nagar, New Delhi
110055, India, ☎ +91-11-23627617, [47]. Hotel Ashiana in New Delhi, India is located
near the New Delhi Railway Station. A member of Kukreja Group
Hotels, this New Delhi hotel proves that great service and
convenience need not be expensive. Its strategic location even
places you within minutes of Connaught Place, the city’s main
financial and commercial district. edit
- Asian Guest House, 14 Scindia House, second floor with
elevator, Kasturba Gandhi Marg, Connaught Place,
☎ +91 (0)11 23313393 (asianguesthouse@gmail.com),
[48]. Clean quiet rooms, centrally located. Not
recommended for families. Corridors and less expensive rooms are
dirty and desperately in need of renovation. monkeys living outside
the building, and cockroaches inside, are a combined special
treat! Singles from 675 rupees, doubles
with a/c and cable TV for 1575 rupees + 12.5% tax. Book through
their website and get 5% discount on room tariff. (latitude,longitude) edit
- India Luxury Homes, S 504 Greater Kailash I New Delhi 110048
India, ☎ +91-9999
888666 (bookme@indialuxuryhomes.in),
[49]. India Luxury Homes is a one of its kind Luxury
BnB in the heart of South Delhi. With jacuzzi, Mini Bar and all
amenities of a 4 star hotel and the comfort of home. You can
contact the owner of the property Rajesh any time at +91 9999
888666. 3500 INR. edit
- Lemontree Hotels, 201, Okhla Industrial Estate, Phase
III (New Delhi
110020), ☎ 11-41650101, [50]. edit
- Prem Sagar Guest House, P block, First Floor,
Connaught Place Outer Circle (Near Shivaji Stadium, next block to the
landmark Regal Cinema and a few doors away from McDonald's Outer
Circle), ☎ +91 (0)11
23345263 (premsagardelhi@hotmail.com),
[51]. Clean quiet rooms, centrally located, terrace
garden. All rooms A/C, cable TV. From
Rs.1800. edit
- BNB
New Delhi, I
- 9 Maharani Bagh, ☎ 00919899099042 (bnbnewdelhi@gmail.com), [52]. Bed and breakfast delhi 2800 INR. (latitude,longitude) edit
- Hotel Marina Connaught Place – High
mid-range.
- Delhi Homestay, (20 mins from Airport), (delhihomestay@gmail.com),
[53]. Air-conditioned room with private attached
bathroom with hot/cold showers. Breakfast is complimentary! Located
in a quiet, green section of Delhi. Pickup to and from airport can
be arranged. (latitude,longitude) edit
- Bajaj Indian Homestay, [54]. Includes ten themed hotel rooms. hotel
(latitude,longitude) edit
- Bed and Breakfast New Delhi, I-9 Maharani
Bagh, ☎ +919899099042 (bnbnewdelhi@gmail.com), [55]. Three-room bed and breakfast. Private
bathrooms. Free Wifi. (latitude,longitude) edit
- New Haven Hotel, E - 512, Greater Kailash Part-2,Main Road
New Delhi-110048, ☎ +91-9910024700 (newhavendel@hotmail.com),
[56]. checkin: 14:00 hrs; checkout: 12 Noon. Great
boutique hotel located in South Delhi. Nice new deluxe rooms, high
speed Wifi internet, nice surrounding and an amazing location.
Close to Lotus temple, Opposite JMD shopping mall and Mainland
China restaurant. GK-2 M block market with many restaurants and
bars like Ruby Tuesday, Nudeli, Diva, Smoke House Grill and many
more. GK-1 M block market is in proximity to shopping and the Saket
City Select Mall. INR 2800 / $69
onwards. edit
- Mehar Castle, [57]. Large rooms with a/c, tv, hot shower, room
service. 750 Rupees/night for one and
1500 for two persons. (latitude,longitude) edit
- Narula
Inn, [58]. Bed and breakfast in the heart of New Delhi,
Connaught Place. (latitude,longitude) edit
- Hotel Ajanta, Main Bazaar, Paharganj, New Delhi
11055, ☎ +91-11-23620925/26/27 (info@hotelajanta.com), [59]. Supposedly recommended by Lonely Planet and
others, therefore populated by foreigners only. Decent restaurant
and nice atmosphere on rooftop bar, although rooftop seems like a
construction site. Internet is available. The staff is often rude
and may try to offer overpriced tour package bookings as ofen as
they can. The rooms are small and many do not have windows.
Bath/shower facilities are archaic. Be warned that any quoted
prices will incur a whopping 22.5% 'tax' charge at time of payment.
The hotel is also unwilling to store luggage for its
patrons. Single room with fan from
Rs1000 plus 22.5%. (latitude,longitude) edit
- Hotel Sunstar Residency, 8A/50, W.E.A. Channa
Market, Karol Bagh, New Delhi 110 005, ☎ 25853688, 89, 42503285, 42502767
(hotelsunstar@yahoo.co.uk),
[60]. Room service and a restaurant available for
breakfast and dinner. Lockers available. Double rooms with A/C, TV, private bathroom from 1300
rupees.. (latitude,longitude) edit
- Shantigriha Bed and Breakfast, 12 A, Lane W - 16, Sainik
Farms, New Delhi, ☎ 91-9818149019 (info@shantigrihabnb.com),
[61]. Calm Peaceful, near Asola wildlife sanctuary
and Qutab Minar. Free wifi,private loo's (latitude,longitude) edit
- Magical Bed and Breakfast, D-393,Defence Colony,New
Delhi-110024 INDIA, ☎ 91-9311955119 (bnb@magicaldelhi.biz), [62]. Best & Affordable Bed and Breakfast In New
Delhi - India (latitude,longitude) edit*
- Amar
Inn, K 102,
Lajpat Nagar - II, New Delhi, ☎ 91-9818410099 (info@amarinn.com), [63]. Reasonable rooms, free internet, but bathrooms
badly in need of remodel. All rooms include air freshening
dispenser. Double Occupancy A/c Room
appx $75 USD. edit
- Inn
at Delhi, C-34, Anand Niketan (+91 98 6810 4893), [64]. Bed and breakfast homestay in Delhi
~4900 INR. edit
- Thikana, A-7 Gulmohar Park, ☎ +91 11 4604 1569 (info@thikanadelhi.com), [65]. Great little family-operated boutique hotel in
south Delhi. Very friendly and hospitable service. Nice new rooms.
Free internet. Close to GK-1, defense colony with many restaurants
and bars. ~4500 INR. edit
- Urban Ashram, D-12 Huaz Khas, ☎ +91 11 4615 1818 (urbanashram@gmail.com), [66]. checkin: noon; checkout: 1
M. Warm, intimate and cosy
family-operated boutique bed and breakfast in south Delhi. Friendly
and hospitable service. Nice new rooms. Free internet and secure
Wi-Fii rooms. Close to GK-1, defense colony , saket with many
restaurants and bars. Rs
3,500-4,500. edit
- Alpine Park, Sunder Vihar, Punjabi Bagh,
☎ +91 98 6848 2798,
[67]. Alpine Park - a serviced
apartment - is located near Punjabi Bagh, one of the posher
localities in West Delhi. Affordable, convenient and with all the
modern amenities will make you come to this place again and
again. ~1800 INR. edit
- Hotel SPB 87, 17A/2, W.E.A. Karol Bagh,
☎ +91 11 4500 0400, [68]. 20 minutes from the Indira Gandhi International
Airport and 10 minutes from New Delhi Railway Station; each room
features satellite television, Wi-Fi Internet access, and a private
toilet and bath. They also have a conference hall for business
meetings and guests. ~2590 INR.
edit
Splurge
At the high end of the scale, demand far outstrips supply and
it's not unusual to be asked US$400 for a very ordinary room.
Getting a room at any of the hotels listed below for under US$200
will require good luck or timing. Beware that by law taxes
for high-end Delhi hotels are still charged on the rack
rate, so 12.5% on a $400 room discounted to $200 will
still cost $50 extra!
- The
Grand, Vasant
kunj - Phase II, Nelson Mandela Rd, ☎ +91 11 2677 1234 (reservation@thegrandnewdelhi.com),
[71]. Formerly the Grand Hyatt, the hotel still
maintains high standards with an opulent lobby, modern rooms, pool
and spa. The South Delhi location 15 min from the airport is good
for business, but rather awkward for tourism. edit
- Oberoi Delhi, Dr. Zakir Hussain Marg, ☎ +91 11 2436 3030 (reservations@oberoigroup.com),
[72].
Mostly a high-end 'business' hotel. 5
stars. Expensive. Delhi's rich can be seen at the shopping complex
which houses top brands like Louis Vuitton , Gucci etc and also at
the lavish brunch on a Sunday afternoon. edit
- Hyatt Regency Delhi, Bhikaiji Cama Place, Ring
Road, ☎ +91 11 2679
1234, [73]. Huge and slightly aged, but still five stars,
featuring an outdoor pool, small gym and spa, three restaurants,
and all the usual amenities. Well-located halfway between the
airport and Connaught Place. edit
- The
Imperial, Janpath, ☎ +91 11 2334 1234 (luxury@theimperialindia.com),
[74]. Houses the only Chanel store in India as well
as a priceless art collection, 'British Art on India.' It also has
the largest collection of land war gallantry awards from India and
neighbouring countries. Very classy, best value for least money in
first class range. Good food and excellent service in
restaurants. edit
- The Maurya Sheraton, Sardar Patel Marg, ☎ +91 11 2611 2233,
[75]. One of the best in the city.
Great restaurants, including the above mentioned Bukhara.
edit
- Park Royal Intercontinental, Nehru Place,
☎ +91 11 4122 3344,
[76]. edit
- The
Lalit, Barakhamba Ave, ☎ +91 11 4444 7777 (newdelhi@thelalit.com,
fax: +91 11 4444 1234), [77]. Earlier known as Intercontinental; located very
centrally and was recently refurbished. Famous for excellent
breakfasts! edit
- Radisson, National Highway-8, ☎ +91 11 2677 9191 (reservations@radissondel.com),
[78]. On way to Indira Gandhi International Airport;
has the famous Great Kebab Factory restaurant edit
- Sheraton New Delhi, District Centre, Saket, ☎ +91 11 4266 1122, [79].
edit
- Taj
Palace, Sardar Patel Marg, ☎ +91 11 2611 0202,
[80]. Part of the Indian Hotels
Chain. High-end luxury in the diplomatic enclave in Chanakyapuri
(close to the US Embassy.) One of the best in terms of food,
hospitality and leisure. edit
- Taj
Mahal, 1,
Mansingh Road, ☎ +91 11 2302
6162,
[81]. In the 'Lutyen's Bungalow Zone'
in central Delhi. edit
- Shangri La, 19 Ashoka Rd, ☎ +91 11 4119 1919, [82].
Part of the renowned Shangri La chain.
The Delhi hotel has splendid sea-food buffets, an extensive
breakfast buffet, and a good Asian restaurant on 1st floor with a
Thai, Chinese and Japanese menu. 5-star service and good security.
Only a 15 min walk from Connaught Place. edit
- Le
Meridian, Windsor Place, ☎ +91 11 2371 0101,
[83]. A landmark 5-star hotel that
just underwent a major renovation. It is, along with the
Shangri-La, one of the best hotels in the city in terms of
location. edit
- Hotel Samrat, Kautilya Marg, ☎ +91 11 2611 0606, [84]. Just touches the 5-star luxury hotel levels, is
a twin of The Ashoka Hotel. edit
- Peacock Suites, multiple locations around
Delhi, ☎ 1-202-552-1606
(USA), [85]. Full serviced apartments in Defense Colony, New
Friends, Greater Kailash. All come with cooks and drivers; many
have 3 or 4 bedrooms. 4 bedrooms 1200 sq
feet around $350 USD. edit
Stay healthy
Delhi is a hot, dusty city and the combination of the two may
reduce visibility in the summer. In April through June,
temperatures regularly top 40°C, meaning that proper hydration is
of the utmost importance. In winter there can be seasonal fog; on
particularly foggy days, it can be difficult to see across the
street. If you happen to be traveling in or out of Delhi during the
winters, be aware of fog-related flight delays.
Drink only bottled water so you may avoid any water-related
illness. Keep yourself covered in summers to avoid a heat stroke.
Drink a lot of water - 3 litres a day - particularly in the summer.
Sticking to freshly, well-cooked vegetarian food will lessen your
chances on acquiring the "Delhi belly."
Many first time travelers to India find themselves falling
victim to scams and
touts, and unfortunately Delhi has a lot of both. Be on guard
for anybody trying to help you by giving you unsolicited directions
or travel advice. Take any advice from taxi and auto drivers with a
grain of salt, particularly if they tell you the place you want to
go to is closed, dangerous, etc. If this is your first time to
India, do not openly admit it as this will make you a mark for scam
artists.
Delhi is an increasingly unsafe place for women. It is not
uncommon to receive lewd remarks or even physical touching. If you
are arriving into Delhi at night either stay in the airport lounge
or well lit areas until daybreak. Try to avoid walking around alone
or hiring cabs alone. Dress conservatively (preferably in Indian
clothing so as to blend in). Learn to shout and consider carrying
mace/pepper spray. Police vehicles (called PCR vans) are parked on
almost every major intersection. Dial 100 in case of
emergencies.
Carry your cash, passport, and cards in a secure money belt,
with only enough cash for a few hours at a time in your wallet or
other accessible place. Some travelers recommend carrying an
expendable wallet with a few ten rupee bills in it in an obvious
place such as your hip pocket as a decoy to Delhi's ubiquitous
pickpockets.
As a general rule, expect anyone handling your cash in Delhi to
attempt to short-change you. You may be favorably surprised once or
twice during your visit. Learn the currency, count out your payment
and change carefully, and be insistent in any dispute.
Several tourist agencies have been known to swindle tourists,
such as change their travel plans or charge them extra commissions
and fees. If you do use the services of a travel agency, try to
book train or airline tickets. Do not take a personal touring car
as the agency will most likely charge you ridiculous prices, for
example, 7 rupees/km of the trip. The driver will most likely take
you to sites that you did not request to see in order to pull more
money out of your pockets. The best way to secure train tickets is
by navigating through the India Rail website. Otherwise, prepare to
spend a good hour sorting through the charges that the tourist
agency will rack up, most likely several hundred dollars in
convenience charges or unspecified taxes.
Cope
Power outages and water
shortages are common Delhi, often occurring multiple times
a day with summers being particularly bad. Better accommodations
have water tanks and generators to alleviate the inconvenience, but
keep a flashlight handy at night and do your part by not wasting
too much water.
- Laundry service is offered in most hotels,
even in budget accommodations. If you would rather save the money
and do it yourself, buckets are found in almost all bathrooms - but
perhaps wash it out well first.
- Exercising outdoors is not recommended due to
the level of pollution and swimming in rivers is also not
recommended. Instead, look for a hotel with a gym or a pool since
many offer day passes. You can always try a morning or evening walk
in the parks.
Embassy
of the Republic of Angola, 5 / 50 F, Nyaya Marg Chanakya
Puri, ☎ +91 11 26882680 or
+91 11 26110701 (xietuang@del2.vsnl.net.in,
fax: +91 11 26113512), [86]. edit
British High
Commission, Shantipath , Chanakyapuri,
☎ +91 11 687 2161, [88].
edit
Canadian High
Commission, 7/8 Shantipath, Chanakyapuri New Delhi 110
021, India, ☎ 91 (11)
4178-2000 (delhi@international.gc.ca,
fax: 91 (11) 4178-2020), [89].
Monday - Thursday 08:30 - 17:30 Friday 08:30 -
13:00. edit
Chinese Embassy,
50 D Shantipath,
Chanakyapuri, ☎ +91 11 688
9028, [90]. edit
German Embassy,
Shantipath,
Chanakyapuri, ☎ +91 11 44199
199 (fax:
+91 11 2687 31 17), [91]. edit
Embassy of Italy,
50E, Chandra Gupta
Marg, Chanakyapuri, New Delhi 110021, ☎ +91 11 26114355, [92].
Mon to Thu 9am-1pm, 2pm-6pm; Fri
9am-1pm. edit
Nepalese Embassy,
Bara Khamba
Road, ☎ +91 11 332
9969. edit
Pakistan Embassy,
2/50 G Shantipath,
Chanakyapuri, ☎ +91 11 467
6004. edit
Embassy of
Mongolia, 34,
Archbishop Macarios Marg, ☎ +91
11-2463 1728 (mongemb@vsnl.net, fax: +91 11-2463 3240). edit
Contact
Cell phone coverage in the city is excellent. There are many
service providers offering a wide variety of plans. Among them are
Vodafone [95], Reliance [96], and Tata
Indicom [97]. It might be a good
idea to buy a cell phone and use one of those prepaid plans to get
yourself connected while you are in the city.
Get out
Delhi is a major international transit hub for trains, planes
and buses as well as a great connection point for domestic
destinations within India. It's also a great base for exploration
of the famous Hill Stations built during the
- Agra and the
Taj Mahal are a 3-4 hour drive or train ride.
- Dharamsala - the seat of the Dalai
Lama's government in exile, is 10-12 hours to the north. Tickets
can be purchased from Main Bazaar Tourist offices, Majnu ka Tilla
Tibetan Settlement or the I.S.B.T.
- Shimla -
the summer capital of British India and the queen of all hill
stations in India. It has many scenic and historic locations and is
about an 8 hr drive or 10 hrs in a bus. A direct flight from Delhi
takes just 1 hr to reach Shimla.
- Jaipur
and Rajasthan are reachable by plane or
overnight train.
- Kathmandu in neighboring Nepal is a roughly 36+ hrs
by coach, or longer (but more comfortably) on a combination of
train and coach.
- The holy cities of Haridwar and Rishikesh, in the
foothills of the Himalayas, are a 5-6 hour bus or train ride
away.
- Mussoorie - one of the original
British hill stations in India; also known as The Queen of the
Hills.
- Nainital - another beautiful hill
station in the Kumaon hills with the magnificent Naini Lake.
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