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Södermalm

18th century housing facing Riddarfjärden
Geography
Södermalm (Sweden)
Location	Baltic Sea
Coordinates	59°19′N 18°04′E / 59.317°N 18.067°E / 59.317; 18.067
Area	5,71 km²
Country
Sweden
Borough	Södermalm borough
Municipality	Stockholm Municipality
Demographics
Population	99 685 (as of 31/12 2008)

Södermalm, often shortened to "Söder", is a district in central Stockholm. It covers the large island formerly called "Åsön". With a population of 99 685, it is one of the most densely populated districts of Scandinavia. Though Södermalm usually is considered an island, water to both its north and south does not flow freely but passes through locks.

Södermalm is connected to its surrounding areas by a number of bridges. It connects to Gamla Stan to the north by Slussen, a grid of road and rail and a lock that separates the lake Mälaren from the Baltic Sea, to Långholmen and Kungsholmen to the northwest by one of the city's larger bridges, Västerbron, to the islet Reimersholme to the west, to Liljeholmen to the southwest by the bridge Liljeholmsbron, to Årsta by Årstabron and Skanstullsbron in the south, and, finally, to Södra Hammarbyhamnen to the east by Danvikstull Bridge.

Administratively, Södermalm is part of Stockholm Municipality. It constitutes, together with Gamla stan and some other districts, from 2007 the administrative district Södermalms stadsdelsområde, often translated as Södermalm borough.

Contents 1 History 2 Geography 2.1 Neighbourhoods and parishes 3 Main sights 4 Culture 4.1 In poetry and fiction 5 Transport 5.1 Railway and Stockholm Metro stations 5.2 Bridges 6 References

History

The name Södermalm ("suthraemalm") is first mentioned in 1288 in a letter from Bishop Anund of Strängnäs. Until the early 17th century Södermalm was mainly a rural, agricultural area. Its first urban areas were planned and built in the mid 17th century, comprising a mixture of working class housing, such as the little red cottages that can still to be seen in northeastern Södermalm, and the summer houses and pavilions of wealthier families, such as Emanuel Swedenborg's pavilion, which is to be seen in the outdoor museum Skansen. During this time, it was also the location of perhaps the first theatre in Scandinavia, Björngårdsteatern. Södermalm is often poetically named "Söders höjder", which reflects its topography of sheer cliffs and rocky hills. Indeed the hills of Södermalm provide remarkable views of Stockholm's skyline.

In the 18th century, the working-class cottages that clung to Mariaberget, the steep cliffs facing Riddarfjärden, were replaced by the large buildings that are still present today. It was not until the beginning of the 20th century that urbanisation grasped the entire width of Södermalm, and even today parts of Södermalm have a rural feeling to them, as for instance the landscape of tiny allotments that climb the slopes of Eriksdal.

For a long time Södermalm was known as a working-class area, renowned for its poverty and regarded as a slum. While there has been a romantic air about Södermalm for many decades, its slow ascendancy toward a better reputation began as late as in the 1970s or '80s. Today the area is considered a fashionable place to live or visit, and boasts prominent shopping districts and a wide range of cafés, restaurants and bars.

Also, rather than being known as a slum, Södermalm is now known as home of bohemian, alternative culture and a broad range of cultural amenities. Meanwhile, the growing demand of housing, as well as an increasing gentrification of Stockholm's central parts, makes apartments in Södermalm more and more difficult or expensive to come by. Thus what was once a working-class district is now somewhat a district of the privileged.^[1]

Geography

Neighbourhoods and parishes

Södermalm is roughly divided into the following neighbourhoods (from west to east):

• Högalid (western area):
  • Bergsund
  • Drakenberg
  • Heleneborg
  • Tantolunden
  • Zinkensdamm
• Maria Magdalena (mid-northern area):
  • Mariaberget
  • Mariatorget
  • Slussen
  • Södra stationsområdet
• Åsö (mid-southern area):
  • Eriksdal
  • Helgalund
  • Medborgarplatsen
  • Rosenlund
  • Skanstull
• Katarina-Sofia (north-eastern area):
  • Blecktornsområdet
  • Danvikstull
  • Ersta
  • Norra Hammarbyhamnen
  • Nytorget
  • Mosebacke

Main sights

• Göta Lejon
• Högalid Church
• Karl Johanslussen
• Katarina Elevator
• Katarina Church
• Maria Magdalena Church
• Medborgarhuset
• Stockholm Mosque
• Saint Eric's Cathedral
• Skatteskrapan
• Slussen
• Södra teatern
• Sofia kyrka
• Stockholms södra
• Söder Torn

Culture

In poetry and fiction

• The songs and poems of the popular 18th century poet and songwriter Carl Michael Bellman, born and raised on Södermalm, are filled with recurring references to names of places, primarily bars and meadhalls, on Södermalm.
• The celebrated first paragraph of August Strindberg's satirical novel The Red Room (Röda rummet) describes Stockholm as seen from Mosebacke on Södermalm, where much of the story takes place.
• City of My Dreams (Mina drömmars stad), the first in a series of books by Per Anders Fogelström telling the story of several generations of Stockholmers, follows the young worker Henning's life on Södermalm.

Transport

Railway and Stockholm Metro stations Hornstull: Red line metro Mariatorget: Red line metro Medborgarplatsen: Green line metro Skanstull: Green line metro Slussen: Green line metro, Red line metro and Saltsjöbanan Stockholms södra: Commuter rail Zinkensdamm: Red Line Metro

Bridges Centralbron Danviksbro Johanneshovsbron Liljeholmsbron Västerbron Långholmsbron Pålsundsbron Reimersholmsbron Skansbron Skanstullsbron Årstabroarna

References

Coordinates: 59°19′N 18°04′E / 59.317°N 18.067°E / 59.317; 18.067

(Redirected to Stockholm article)

From Wikitravel

For other places with the same name, see Stockholm (disambiguation).

Stockholm [1] is the capital of Sweden. The city is made up of 14 islands connected by some 50 bridges on Lake Mälaren, which flows into the Baltic Sea and passes an archipelago with some 24,000 islands and islets.

The city's a very lively, cosmopolitan place with both modern Scandinavian architecture including lots of brass and steel, along with fairy tale towers, a captivating Old Town (Gamla Stan) and lots of green space. Over 30% of the city area is made up of waterways and another 30% is made up of parks and green spaces, giving Stockholm perhaps the freshest air and widest lungs of any European capital.

Most attractions in Stockholm are found in what Stockholmers call "innerstaden", the inner city - historically the zone within the city tolls. The geography of Stockholm, with its islands and bodies of water, makes for a natural division of the inner city into three major zones. Simply put, the mainland north of Gamla Stan (consisting of Norrmalm, Vasastan and Östermalm) can be said to form one district, the small island Gamla Stan and the large Södermalm another, and the island of Kungsholmen a separate district in the west. This division reflects how most Stockholmers perceive the city, although it is in part different from the administrative borough divisions.

Outside the inner city, the city has a typically suburban character. The Municipality of Stockholm extends to the northwest and to the south. To the north the municipality borders the towns of Solna and Danderyd and to the east Nacka and the island of Lidingö; all of them traditionally separate entities.

The northern inner city:

• Norrmalm is the major commercial district, with plenty of shopping opportunities. The central railway station and the T-Centralen metro hub are located in Southern Norrmalm; known as City, it is regarded as the absolute center of Stockholm. The busy pedestrian shopping street Drottninggatan (a real tourist trap in summertime) runs in a north-south direction through the area, by the square Sergels Torg. For administrative purposes, Vasastan is a part of Norrmalm, but most Stockholmers regard it as a separate neighborhood. It is a rather large, mainly residential area which recently has attracted a younger crowd. The most central part, around the Odenplan square, offers some shopping and nightlife.

• Östermalm is an affluent commercial and residential area. The part closest to the city center, around the Stureplan square, is the place for upmarket shopping as well as nightclubs and bars for the jet set and those who seek their company. To the north and east, the tree-lined boulevards of Narvavägen and Karlavägen, bordered by decorated stone houses, lead to the Karlaplan square. The area contains many of Stockholm's numerous museums. A protected green area, the Djurgården area of Östermalm makes up a large part of the National City Park [2]. Södra Djurgården (Southern Djurgården) is an island, often referred to simply as Djurgården, with some of Stockholm's major tourist attractions - the Skansen open air museum, the Gröna Lund amusement park and Vasamuseet. Norra Djurgården (Northern Djurgården) has a large green, Gärdet, a small forest, and houses the campuses of Stockholm University and the Royal Institute of Technology.

The southern inner city:

• Gamla Stan— The Old Town, is the historical centre. The northern part is dominated by the Royal Palace and the Riksdag - the Swedish parliament. The rest of the island is a picturesque collection of old buildings and narrow cobblestone streets. The adjacent island Riddarholmen holds an important church and several old administrative buildings.

• Södermalm, colloquially referred to as Söder, once a working-class district, was mostly gentrified during the late 20th century. The more or less bohemian area south of Folkungagatan has recently been nicknamed SoFo (with obvious inspiration from SoHo). Slussen ("The Lock"), the waterway lock between Södermalm and Gamla Stan, is a mass transit hub covered by road bridges. Today it is rundown, smelly and not as charming as when it was built in the 1930s. The major north-south street Götgatan, with many bars and shops, starts close to Slussen and passes Medborgarplatsen ("Citizens' square"), a major square surrounded by restaurants and pubs.

• Kungsholmen is an island that makes up the western part of the inner city. On its eastern tip, the impressive redbrick Stockholm City Hall stands by the water. Further west, a collection of rather relaxed neighbourhood bars and restaurants can be found. West of the Fridhemsplan transport hub and the new Västermalmsgallerian shopping mall, the island becomes more suburban.

• Lilla Essingen and Stora Essingen are two smaller, mainly residential, islands that belong to the borough of Kungsholmen.

Suburbs and bordering towns:

• Västerort, the north-western suburbs, has both very wealthy and rather poor neighborhoods. Vällingby was constructed in the 1950s as one of the first planned suburbs in Europe. In Kista, a centre of information technology, the 128-metre Kista Science Tower, Sweden's tallest office building, was completed in 2002. Unfortunately, the upper floors are not open to the public.

• Söderort or söder om Söder, the southern suburbs, are almost as diverse. The most central part, around Gullmarsplan, contains several arenas: Globen (The Globe Arena), clearly visible from most of Södermalm, host ice hockey games as well as international artist performances, the smaller Hovet and the soccer stadium Söderstadion. Further south, Skogskyrkogården (the Woodland Cemetery) is a UNESCO World Heritage site famous for its architecture. To the southwest of the inner city, the borough Liljeholmen has a pleasant recreational area around lake Trekanten.

• Ekerö, a municipality consisting of several islands to the west of Stockholm, contains two World Heritage sites: the Drottningholm palace and the Viking town of Birka.

• Solna and Sundbyberg, bordering Stockholm to the north, are two cities with a distinct history of their own. Solna is the home of Råsunda, Stockholm's largest soccer stadium, the vast park of Hagaparken, the Karolinska Institute, a leading institution of medical research, and Solvalla, a horse-race arena.

• Danderyd, to the northeast, contains some of Sweden's most wealthy residential areas.

• Vaxholm (archaic spelling Waxholm), further out northeast, is the gateway to much of the Stockholm archipelago and a hub for its passenger ferries. It is a nice town with a great waterfront view and a picturesque small-scale shopping area. It also sports the Vaxholm Castle, today a coastal defense museum.

• Lidingö is a largely suburban island to the north-east, best known for the Millesgården sculpture museum (see below), Bosön, centre for The Swedish Sports Confederation, where several famous athletes work out, and Lidingöloppet, a cross-country running event each September. Though just a few kilometres from central Stockholm, the island contains many green, quiet waterfronts and even a farm.

• Nacka and Värmdö, to the southeast, are residential suburban municipalities that contains large recreational areas and much of the southern part of the Stockholm Archipelago.

• Huddinge, Haninge and Tyresö to the south are residential suburban municipalities with large recreational areas, including the large Tyresta virgin forest, one of 28 national parks in Sweden, where the oldest pine trees are around 400 years old.

• Södertälje, bordering Stockholm to the south, is a city with a distinct history where the Baltic sea meets lake Mälaren in Sweden's biggest lock. Södertälje is the home of Tom tits - Stockholm's biggest science center for children, the Torekällberget outdoor museum, and Tvetagården - a well known hostel just by lake Måsnaren.

Understand

Stockholm is not the oldest town in Sweden, but after its establishment in the 1250s it rapidly became a national centre, with its strategic location between lake Mälaren and the Baltic Sea. The city is in almost every respect the most important city in Sweden, even though more peripheral regions feel they survive quite well without the political centralism exerted by the capital.

The city contains buildings from all ages since the 15th century. Like the rest of Sweden it was untouched by the World Wars, but particularly between 1955 and 1975, hundreds of old buildings in Norrmalm were demolished in a large-scale modernization process, encouraged by similar projects in other European cities. Since then, little has changed in the architecture of central Stockholm.

Sweden's beautiful capital has a picturesque setting that makes the city unique. The difference between seasons is quite large, the summers green with mild nights, and the winters dark, cold, rainy, sometimes snowy, and with millions of Christmas candles in the windows.

Climate

Despite its northern location, Stockholm has fairly mild temperatures throughout the year. As a result of its northerly latitude, the city sees a huge seasonal variation in sunlight, from more than 18 hours of daylight around midsummer, to approximately 6 hours of daylight in late December. Stockholm enjoys an average of nearly 2,000 hours of sunshine a year. Average yearly precipitation is 539 mm (21.2"), with July and August slightly the wettest months.

Throughout the summer, the average daily high temperatures reach 20-25°C (68-77°F), with lows of 12-15°C (54-59°F). However, summer heat waves are frequent and temperatures above 25°C+ (77°F+) are not uncommon. Autumn tends to be rather cool and often rainy; in October, average daily highs dip to approximately 10°C (50°F). In the winter months, from December through early March, average daily temperatures fall between -3 and 3°C (26-38°F). Milder periods occur, but so do cold spells with temperatures around -10°C (-14°F). Snowfall can occur from late November to early April, but the amount of snowfall varies greatly from year to year and through the winter season. However, longer periods of deep snow cover are rather uncommon. Spring is the driest season, with average daily temperature reaching highs of 9°C (48°F) in April and 16°C (61°F) in May.

• Stockholm Tourist Centre, Sverigehuset (Sweden House), Kungsträdgården (on the western side, close to Hamngatan) (T Kungsträdgården or T T-Centralen), +46 8 508 285 08 [3]. Open M-F 9AM-7PM, Sa 10AM-5PM, Su 10AM-4PM. The official tourist centre has a lot of information in English and helpful staff. They also sell tickets to museums and sightseeing tours.

• Arlanda Airport [4] (IATA: ARN; ICAO: ESSA) is the main international airport (served by SAS [5], BA [6] and many others) and is situated 40 km (25 mi) north of the city.

  There are several methods for travelling between Stockholm and Arlanda.

  • Taxis from major taxi companies operate on a fixed price basis between Arlanda and central Stockholm. Prices at the taxi stands currently range from 450SEK (Transfer Taxi) to 495SEK. Generally, you can freely choose among the waiting taxis or ask the operator for a specific company. A taxi ride to central Stockholm takes approximately 40 minutes. With some companies, you can get a lower price if you pre-book your ride. With Airport Cab (+46 8 25 25 23 [7]) the cost is 430SEK from Arlanda to Stockholm, 390SEK from Stockholm to Arlanda. With Taxi Solna (+46 8 280 280 [8]) the cost is 445SEK from Arlanda to Stockholm, 350SEK from Stockholm to Arlanda. See the Taxi section below for some general advice on taxi travel in Stockholm.
  • The Arlanda Express Train [9], which leaves from the lower level of each terminal, costs 240SEK one-way (children, youth up to the age of 25, and ISIC card holders 120SEK, two adults 250SEK during weekends and holidays), but gets you to the Central Station in 20 minutes and departs every 15 minutes during the day. Tickets can be bought from kiosks at the platform and online (50SEK extra is charged when buying a ticket on board).
  • Airport coaches (Flygbussarna) [10] run frequently to and from the City Terminal, just next to the Central Station (approx. 40 minutes) and cost 110SEK (79SEK for people under 25). You can't buy tickets with cash on board. They make a few stops in the northern suburbs along the way.
  • If you have bought a public transport card you can get into town for free by the SL bus 583 [11], which connects Arlanda with the northern suburb of Märsta, from where commuter trains take you to Stockholm Central. This takes about an hour. The information desks at Arlanda, "Pressbyrån" and 7-11 shops at Arlanda sells tickets and travel cards for public transport valid for 1, 3 or 7 days. If you don't have a travel card the trip costs 80SEK cash or 52SEK with pre-bought ticket coupons.
  • The company airportshuttle.se [12] runs a minibus shuttle service to selected hotels in central Stockholm. The price is 190SEK when pre-booking at least 12 hours before departure. Ticket can also be bought at the Arlanda information desks.

• Bromma Airport (IATA: BMA; ICAO: ESSB) is a smaller airport 10km (6 mi) west of central Stockholm, mainly used for domestic flights and inter-European hops to cities like Brussels and Paris. Airport coaches [13] go to the City Terminal, price 79SEK. A cheaper option (40SEK, 26SEK with pre-bought ticket coupons) is to take local bus 112 to Spånga station, and from there a commuter train to Stockholm Central.

• Skavsta Airport (IATA: NYO; ICAO: ESKN) mostly used by Ryanair and Wizzair. Located 100 km (62 mi) southwest of Stockholm, near the town Nyköping.

  There are two competing bus services between Stockholm and Skavsta. The travel time is about 80 minutes.

  • Airport coaches [14] go to/from the City Terminal in Stockholm every 20 minutes. 89SEK one way, 178SEK round trip. Tickets can be bought on-line or from the cashier at the bus terminal.
  • Fly by coach (Ryanair) [15] started a new bus service to/from the City Terminal in Stockholm (one level above the ground) in May 2009. 90SEK one way, 170SEK round trip. There is a new campaign, that 2 people can travel use one ticket. This makes it 50% cheaper than Flygbussarna, if you are 2 people traveling. There is also a free WiFi service on-board the buses.

• Västerås Airport (IATA: VST; ICAO: ESOW) is situated 100 km (62 mi) west of Stockholm near the town Västerås. Serves Ryanair flights to/from London (Stansted). Airport coaches [16] go to/from the City Terminal in Stockholm. 150SEK one way, 249SEK round trip, takes about 75 minutes.

By train

The main station, Stockholms Central, serves both commuter and long-distance routes. It is located in the city centre, with an underground connection to T-Centralen, the central hub for the subway system. The major national rail company, SJ, has a travel planner and ticket booking service on its web page [17].

By bus

The City Terminal (Cityterminalen [18]) is the main bus terminal, centrally located and directly connected to the main train station, Stockholms Central and the T Centralen metro station. There are multiple daily departures to most other cities in Sweden, as well as a few international routes. Swebus Express [19] operates routes to Copenhagen and Oslo with several daily departures, and a twice-weekly service to Berlin. Eurolines [20] has some departures to Copenhagen. Smaller operators offer connections with Prague, Budapest, Zagreb, Banja Luka[21] among other cities.

By boat

Ferries go to Finland, Latvia and Estonia every day.

• Silja Line [22] ferries to Mariehamn, Helsinki and Turku depart from Värtahamnen port, some 500 meters from Gärdet subway station.

• Viking Line [23] ferries to Helsinki and Turku depart from Stadsgårdsterminalen port in eastern Södermalm. Expensive buses shuttle passengers to the Slussen subway station, or you can get there on foot by following the coastline west for a kilometre or so. There are also privately run (and more expensive) direct buses from the ferry terminal to the Cityterminalen bus station about 2.5 km away.

• Birka Cruises [24] ferries to Mariehamn in Åland depart from Stadsgårdsterminalen (see above).

• Tallink [25] ferries to Mariehamn and Tallinn in Estonia depart from Värtahamnen port, and ferries to Riga in Latvia from Frihamnen port.

• Holland America Cruises uses Stadsgårdsterminalen port in eastern Södermalm.

A lot of European cruises have day long stops in Stockholm. Buying tickets from abroad tends to be tricky, since most ferry companies do not accept several foreign credit cards. A wire transfer may be required, which, depending on your bank, is usually more expensive and takes longer.

Get around

Public transport

Stockholms Lokaltrafik, SL (Stockholm Public Transport) [26] runs an extensive subway, commuter train and bus system as well as some tram, light rail and ferry services, all using an integrated ticket system based on coupons. The minimum amount of coupons needed is 2, and the maximum 4, depending on how many zones the trip goes through. There are passes available for 24 hours (100SEK), 72 hours (200SEK), or 7 days (260SEK), stripes of 16 coupons (förköpsremsa) for 180SEK and the slightly confusing single journey tickets. Single tickets are cheaper when bought in advance (15SEK in advance, 20SEK from the clerk for adults, 9 / 12 for seniors and children), effectively making one trip in one zone at least 30SEK for adults. Single tickets are valid for one hour. Stripes can be shared as long as you go to the same destination and in most cases they are the most cost effective option for tourists. When you purchase the 72-hour pass, you also receive free admission to Gröna Lund (see "See" below). If you are going to be in Stockholm for a while, go ahead and purchase a 30-day card, which allows unrestricted access to all of the buses, trams, subways, and commuter trains, as well as the Djurgården ferry, for 690SEK.

The Stockholm Card [27] allows free public transport as well as free admission to 75 museums and sights in Stockholm, free sightseeing by boat and other bonus offers. Adult 24 hours 375SEK, adult 48 hours 495SEK, adult 72 hours 595SEK. Children 24 hours 180SEK, children 48 hours 210SEK, children 72 hours 230SEK.

The SL website has detailed ticket and price information, and a journey planner.

The standard of quality among the public transportation services is very high but there are still are a few older trains running during rush hour.

Subway

There is an efficient metro system called the Tunnelbana (sometimes abbreviated T-Bana or just T on signs). With exactly 100 stations, it is quite extensive for a city of this size and will get you around almost all the downtown places as well as most nearby suburbs. Trains run until almost 1AM weeknights and all night on weekends.

Commuter train

The commuter train (pendeltåg) in Stockholm covers much of Stockholm county, as well as some locations in bordering counties. There are currently 51 stations. The busiest routes are along the Kungsängen to Västerhaninge and Märsta to Södertälje lines, with departures every 15 minutes during the day, and every 30 minutes in the evening, and with extra cars during rush-hour. On the other lines, the service is less frequent. Commuter trains use the same tickets and passes as the subways and public buses.

Bus, light rail and ferry

Stockholm has an extensive bus system which reaches areas the Tunnelbana does not. Four inner city main lines numbered from 1 to 4 are operated by large blue buses, the other, generally less frequent lines, by red buses. Tvärbanan is a semi-circular light rail line running from the west to the southeast part of the city. A few other light rail lines connect various suburbs to the metro system. There are also ferries going to Djurgården and Skeppsholmen. Bus and light rail is included in any SL ticket or pass, and ferry travel is included with any 24- or 72-hour pass, 7-day pass as well as the monthly pass. (The ferries to the archipelago, the airport buses, the Arlanda Express train and the SJ regional trains to Uppsala, Västerås, Eskilstuna and other destinations are not part of the SL network and thus not included in any of these tickets.)

Bike

Cycling is an attractive option. On a bike, a journey across central Stockholm' will take no longer than 30 minutes and can be faster than travelling by subway or car. There are cycle paths along most major streets and drivers are generally considerate towards cyclists. In winter, when paths can be covered by ice, extra care should be taken.

• Stockholm City Bikes [28]. In the summer months, you can use the city-operated bike loan service by purchasing a key-card. Bike stands throughout the city allows you to pick up a bike in one stand and leave it in another. A three-day (minimum period) key-card costs 125SEK and a season pass costs 200SEK. You may not use a bike for more than three hours at a time, but it is possible to switch to a new bike when returning a used one. Key-cards can be bought at an SL Center [29].

• Cykel- & Mopeduthyrningen, Strandvägen, Kajplats 24 (T Östermalmtorg or T Karlaplan). Only open in the summer months.

• Djurgårdsbrons Sjöcafé, Galärvarvsvägen 2 (on Djurgården, just to the right as you cross Djurgårdsbron) [30]. Only open in the summer months. Rents bikes for 250SEK per day. Also rents roller blades and kayaks.

• Gamla Stans Cykel, Stora Nygatan 20 (T Gamla Stan) [31]. Open all year. Rents three speed city bikes for 190SEK per day or 500SEK for 3 days.

• Servicedepån - Cykelstallet, Scheelegatan 15 (T Rådhuset) [32]. Open all year. Rents 3 speed city bikes, 21 speed mountain/hybrids (200SEK/day), and racers. They have metal-stud snow tyres for winter ice use, but you will have to ask in advance. Helmets are free with the bike, other accessories like panniers can also be rented. Rental period is from 10AM-6PM, full 24 hours, or several days.

Taxi

Taxis are on the expensive side. The Stockholm taxi market was deregulated several years ago, which made it considerably easier to find a taxi, but no pricing regulations are in effect. This means that small operators can, and sometimes will, charge outrageous prices. Try to stick with the major companies (Taxi Stockholm, +46 8 15 00 00; Taxi Kurir, +46 8 30 00 00; and Taxi 020, 020 20 20 20 - free number, national calls only) to avoid being ripped off. (Note that many minor companies use "Stockholm" in their names to mimic their competitor, so look for the phone number 15 00 00 which appears below the logo on all Taxi Stockholm cars.)

If you hail a taxi from any other company it might be a good idea to ask for a price estimate before commencing your journey. Expect to pay about 100SEK for a 5 minute trip. All the major taxi companies accept credit cards.

Authorized taxis have yellow license plates. Late at night in the city centre, you may be offered a ride with an unauthorized taxi, svarttaxi (literally "black taxi"), usually by discrete whispering of "taxi". Most of the time this will get you home for roughly the same cost as ordinary taxis, just don't ask for a receipt. These cabs are usually controlled by organized crime, and some unpleasant episodes have been known to happen to passengers, so try this at your own risk, and preferably not alone.

It's often possible to negotiate a price with a licensed taxi driver before entering the cab. In this case, it's implied that you won't receive a receipt, and the driver won't be paying any taxes or his employer. The money (paid in cash) will go straight into the driver's pocket, which means that you can often get a cheaper ride. However, if you don't know the area well enough to estimate the regular metered price you might get ripped off.

Most taxi firms operate a fixed price regime from central Stockholm to Arlanda airport, mirroring the rates for the journey into town of around 450-500SEK. It's a good idea to check with the driver before you set off.

Car

Cars driving into or out of central Stockholm between 6:30AM and 6:29PM are charged a congestion tax [33] of 10 to 20SEK. Some car rental companies charge their customers separately for the cost of toll passages, while others don't. Foreign-registered cars are exempt from the tax.

Boat

There are two hop-on/hop-off boat tours that run loops between various sites in Stockholm. Both cost approximately 10 Euro for a day long pass and have approximately 8 stops, including the cruise terminal, Gamla Stan, the Vasa Museum, Skansen, and Skeppsholmen.

See

Stockholm has a number of spectacular tourist attractions, ranging from the interesting architecture of the City Hall to the stunning natural beauty of the archipelago. In the Royal Palace and the royal family residence Drottningholm Palace, visitors can get in close contact with traditions of the Swedish monarchy. Among the wide range of museums, the Vasa museum with its 17th century warship and the Skansen open air museum are unique experiences. Gamla stan, the picturesque old town, is a major attraction in itself, with narrow streets and houses dating back to medieval times.

Note: Directions in Stockholm are often accompanied by the name of the closest subway stop, using "T" as an abbreviation for "Tunnelbana", e.g. "T Gamla Stan". This practice is followed below when appropriate.

• Stockholm's Old Town (Gamla Stan), is the beautifully preserved historical heart of Stockholm. T Gamla Stan station is on the west side of the compact quarter, which is best covered on foot. Riddarholmskyrkan is a beautifully preserved medieval church.

• The Stockholm archipelago (skärgården) is one of the world's most spectacular. Stretching 80 kilometres east of the city, the archipelago comprises 24,000 islands, islets and rocks. Several ferry lines and package tours are available. Most ferries are operated by Waxholmsbolaget [34] and depart from Strömkajen, opposite the Royal Palace. During the summer you can also use Strömma Kanalbolaget [35] with faster and more modern ships, departing from Nybrokajen (by Strandvägen). Many will pass the picturesque town of Vaxholm, on the mainland to the northeast of the city, well worth a stopover if you have the time. The islands offer a wide variety of nature, from the lush green of the inner archipelago to the bare cliffs of the more distant outposts. Some islands have restaurants, youth hostels and country stores, while others are entirely deserted islands. If you want to go on a day trip, Grinda is a good alternative; the ride lasts from 75 minutes to nearly 3 hours depending on your choice of boat. During part of the summer, Strömma Kanalbolaget offers a day cruise (11 hours, 775SEK including lunch, dinner and guided tours) as well as a shorter, 2.5 hour boat excursion (190SEK), both departing from Nybrokajen. The latter does not go far out, and you will miss the 'real' archipelago. Möja, Sandhamn and Utö are popular destinations further out. If you plan to go island-hopping there is a 16-day card entitling you to free travel (490SEK).

• The Royal Palace (Kungliga Slottet) [36]. Built between 1697 and 1754 and located on the east side of the Old Town, the Royal Palace is open to the public. Tickets to The Royal Apartments, the Tre Kronor Museum, the Treasury, and Gustav III's Museum of Antiquities cost 70SEK each, with the sumptuous Apartments being the main draw. If Royal regalia is your thing, you'll probably want to pay 110SEK for a combination ticket and visit the Treasury as well. Open 10AM-4PM daily in the summer, noon-4PM (and closed Mondays) in the winter.

• The Stockholm City Hall (Stadshuset), Hantverkargatan 1 (T T-Centralen or Rådhuset, buses 3 and 62) [37]. The city hall, where the Nobel Prize Banquet takes place every year, is an imposing brick building in the city centre. Guided tours are held daily, and allow you to see the impressive halls used for the Nobel festivities, the Blue Hall and the Golden Hall.

• The Stockholm Public Library (Stadsbiblioteket), Sveavägen 73 (T Rådmansgatan) [38]. Built in 1928 and designed by the famous Swedish architect Erik Gunnar Asplund, the interior of the cylinder-shaped main hall is spectacular, with three floors of bookshelves covering 360 degrees of circular wall. Books (both fiction and non-fiction) are available in many different languages, including English and German. On the cliff overlooking it is the old Observatory, which has a fine view of the city to the east. There is also a small cafe.

• The Globe (Globen, officially "Ericsson Globe"), Globentorget (T Globen) [39]. Located just south of Södermalm, the giant white sphere that is "the Globe" has been one of the most eye-catching features of the Stockholm skyline since its inauguration in 1989. The 16,000-seat arena claims the title as the world’s largest spherical building. It is frequently used for ice hockey games (see Do/Sports section below) but is also used for other sporting events, as well as concerts and galas. Guided tours are currently available for groups only, by prior arrangement, but organized public tours will be held June 22-August 16 (Adults 80 SEK). [40]

Religious buildings

Stockholm has a large number of interesting churches, some of them dating back to medieval times. Most of them are in active use by the Lutheran Church of Sweden. There is also a synagouge and a mosque in the city center. The Skogskyrkogården cemetery, in the southern suburbs, is one of the very few UNESCO World Heritage sites from the 20th century.

• The Stockholm Cathedral (Storkyrkan), Trångsund 1 (next to the Royal Castle, T Gamla Stan), +46 8 723 30 16, [41]. Open daily 9AM-6PM 21 May-29 Sep, 9AM-4PM rest of year. Guided tours every Thursday at 11, free entry. Storkyrkan is the oldest church in Gamla Stan. Originating as a 13th century Gothic structure, the exterior was remodelled in Baroque style around 1740. The church is the seat of the Church of Sweden bishop of Stockholm. It contains two pieces of famous artwork: the 15th century wooden statue of Saint George and a copy of the oldest known image of Stockholm, Vädersolstavlan ("The Sun Dog Painting"), a 1636 copy of a lost original from 1535. Entrance 25SEK except for visitors to services 21 May-29 Sep, free entry rest of year.

• Riddarholmen Church (Riddarholmskyrkan), Riddarholmen (T Gamla Stan), +46 8 590 350 09, [42]. Open daily 10AM-5PM Jun-Aug, 10AM-4PM 15 May-31 May and 1 Sep-14 Sep. Riddarholmskyrkan is one of Stockholm's most beautiful churches, and the only remaining medieval abbey. The structure dates back to the late 14th century. In the church, many Swedish regents are buried, including Gustavus Adolphus (Gustav II Adolf) and Charles XII (Karl XII). Adults 30SEK, children 7-18 10SEK.

• German Church (Tyska kyrkan), Svartmangatan 16A (T Gamla Stan), +46 8 411 11 88. Open Tu-F 9:30-11:30AM, Sa-Su noon-4PM. Officially named Sankta Gertrud, this Gamla Stan church is the home of the first German-speaking parish outside Germany, giving some clue to the importance of German merchants in the history of Stockholm. On the site of the church, a German merchants' guild was founded in the 14th century. In the 16th century, the headquarters was converted into a church, which was later expanded. The interior is baroque in style, with large windows and white vaults. The church belongs to the Church of Sweden but holds services in German at 11AM every Sunday.

• Klara kyrka, Klarabergsgatan 37 (T T-Centralen), +46 8 723 30 31 [43]. Open M-Su 10AM-5PM. Centrally located close to the Sergels Torg square, this large redbrick church was constructed in the 16th century, following the demolition of a 13th-century nunnery. The 116-metre steeple is the second highest in Scandinavia and the fifth highest building in Sweden, making it a significant landmark. The artwork inside includes an 18th-century altarpiece. In the cemetery, a stone commemorates the 18th-century composer Carl Michael Bellman, a well-known Swedish songwriter.

• Katarina kyrka, Högbergsgatan 13, +46 8 743 68 00 [44]. Open to the public M-F 11AM-5PM, Sa-Su 10AM-5PM. Katarina kyrka ("Church of Catherine"), named after Princess Catherine, mother of King Charles X of Sweden, can be seen from many parts of central Stockholm from its location on a Södermalm hill. The church was built 1656–1695 and has been rebuilt twice after being destroyed by fires. After the first fire in 1723, the church was given a larger, octagonal tower. Following a new fire in May 1990 which left almost nothing but the external walls, the church was faithfully reconstructed and reopened in 1995. Several notable Swedes are buried in the cemetery. The most well-known is former Foreign Minister Anna Lindh, who was assassinated in 2003.

• Adolf Fredriks kyrka, Holländargatan 16 (T Hötorget or T Rådmansgatan), +46 8 20 70 76 [45]. Open to the public M 1-7PM, Tu-Sa 10AM-4PM, Su 10:30AM-4PM. Adolf Fredriks kyrka, named after King Adolf Fredrik, was built in 1768-1774. The exterior is quite intact while the interior was radically changed in the 1890s. In the church there is a monument to the philosopher Cartesius, who died in Stockholm. Today, the church is probably most known for the burial place of former Prime Minister Olof Palme, who was assassinated on Sveavägen not far from the church. The grave can be found just to the south of the church building.

• Bromma kyrka, Gliavägen 100 (Bus 117 from either T Brommaplan or commuter train station Spånga) +46 8 37 34 48, [46]. Bromma kyrka, in the western suburbs, is one of the oldest in Stockholm. It has also been voted the city's most beautiful. The oldest part was built as a round church in the second half of the 12th century. The church contains medieval paintings from the late 15th century.

• Skogskyrkogården, the Woodland Cemetery (T Skogskyrkogården) [47]. Skogskyrkogården is a UNESCO World Heritage site in the southern suburbs, famous for its architecture. The two architects Gunnar Asplund (who later also would design the Stockholm Public Library) and Sigurd Lewerentz were 30 years old when they won the architecture competition in 1915. All chapels and other main buildings are designed by Asplund, with the exception of the Chapel of Resurrection, designed by Lewerentz, the landscape architect. The site also features works of art by famous Swedish artists such as Sven Erixson, Carl Milles and Otto Sköld. With some 100,000 graves spanning 102 hectares, Skogskyrkogården is the second largest cemetery in Sweden. The film star Greta Garbo is one of several notables buried there. In addition to the large Christian Protestant section, there are also Orthodox, Catholic, Jewish and Muslim sections.

• The northern parts of Södermalm offer some excellent viewpoints with panoramas of the central parts of the city:
  • Walking eastwards from Slussen up Katarinavägen you will reach the picturesque street Fjällgatan, with a view of Gamla Stan from the east.
  • Monteliusvägen, a walking path that you reach from Bastugatan (north of T Mariatorget) offers a similar view from the west. Benches and tables offer picnic possibilities.
  • Skinnarviksberget, a hill further west, close to the Zinkensdamm subway station, is a good option if you prefer cliffs to streets. When exiting the station turn back and head to the north. Walk up a small street to the right and climb the hill. Look for the "Kattenvägen" sign.

• Kaknästornet, Mörka kroken 3, Ladugårdsgärdet (Bus 69 from Sergels Torg), +46 8 667 21 05. Open 10AM-9PM Sep-Apr, 9AM-10PM May-Aug. The 155-metre TV tower, east of central Stockholm, offers a different kind of panorama from its viewing gallery. Adults 35SEK, children 7-15 15SEK.

Museums

Stockholm has more than 70 museums [48], ranging from those large in size and scope to the very specialized, including the Butterfly Museum, the Army Museum, and the Dance Museum, to name but a few. Among the most popular and spectacular are the Vasa Museum (Vasamuseet), with its magnificent and well-preserved 17th century warship, the rather unique open air museum and zoo Skansen and the Museum of History (Historiska museet) featuring an extensive and beautifully presented Viking exhibition. The National Museum (Nationalmuseet) and the Museum of Modern Art (Moderna museet) both hold interesting collections of Swedish and international art.

• Vasa Museum (Vasamuseet), Galärvarvsvägen 14 (Bus 47 from T-Centralen/Sergels torg or the Djurgården ferry from Slussen or Nybroplan), +46 8-519 548 00 [49]. Open daily 8:30AM-6PM Jun-Aug, 10AM-5PM (W 10AM-8PM) Sep-May. The Vasa Museum features Vasa, an original warship from 1628 which sank just after being launched. Retrieved from the water in 1961, the ship is almost wholly preserved and is the only one of its kind and quality in the world. A must-see, especially since it is uncertain whether current methods of preservation will be able to maintain her condition in years to come. Adults 95SEK, Students 50SEK, children up to 17 free. There are adequate lifts to enable those less physically fit to see all levels of the ship.

• Skansen, main entrance from Djurgårdsvägen (Bus 47 from T-Centralen/Sergels torg or the Djurgården ferry from Slussen or Nybroplan), +46 8 442 80 00 [50]. Open daily 10AM-8PM 1 May-20 Jun, 10AM-10PM 21 Jun-31 Aug, shorter hours the rest of the year, but always at least 10AM-3PM. The first open-air museum in the world, as well as a zoological garden specializing in Nordic fauna, such as moose, reindeer, bear, wolf, lynx and wolverine. Located on the island of Djurgården it features over 150 historic buildings from previous centuries. Hosts and hostesses in historic costumes further enhance this attraction, and domestic occupations such as weaving, spinning, and glass blowing are demonstrated. The Skansen area is fairly large (700 meters across) with steep slopes and limited public transportation, so be prepared for long walks. There is also an "aquarium" [51] (not included in the entrance fee) with tropical animals such as lemurs, monkeys, snakes, spiders, fish and Cuban Crocodiles. Adults 100 SEK Jun-Aug, lower other times of the year but with less animals. The aquarium: Adults 75 SEK.

• Museum of National Antiquities (Historiska Museet), Narvavägen 13-17 (T Karlaplan or buses 44 and 56 to Historiska museet, buses 47, 69, 76 to Djurgårdsbron/Historiska museet) [52]. Open daily 10AM-5PM May-Sep, Tu-Su 11AM-5PM and Th 11AM-8PM Oct-Apr. If you're interested in older Scandinavian history, from the Stone Age to the Vikings, you will want to visit the Museum of National Antiquities (its Swedish name means "the Museum of History"). In the Gold Room, you'll find gold treasures from the Bronze Age to the 16th century. (If you're really interested in all things Viking, you might also want to consider a boat trip to the Viking town of Birka, see "Get out" section below.)

• Museum of Modern Art (Moderna Museet), Slupskjulsvägen 7-9 (T Kungsträdgården and a ten-minute walk, or bus 65 from T-Centralen or Kungsträdgården) [53]. Open Tu 10AM-8PM, W-Su 10AM-6PM. Stockholm's museum of modern art is headed by Lars Nittve, formerly of London's Tate Modern. Although its Stockholm counterpart might not have as vast a collection, there is still enough to satisfy both the modern art buff as well as the curious amateur. Also, the building, by Spanish architect Rafael Moneo, is a sight in itself. Admission 80SEK (60SEK reduced price).

• National Museum (Nationalmuseum), Södra Blasieholmshamnen (T Kungsträdgården) [54]. Open Tu 11AM-8PM, W-Su 11AM-5PM. For those more interested in classical art, Nationalmuseum offers pieces by Rembrandt, Rubens, Goya, Renoir, Degas and Gauguin, as well as well-known Swedish artists such as Carl Larsson, Ernst Josephson, C F Hill and Anders Zorn. The museum also has a collection of applied art, design, and industrial design. The museum is situated in a beautiful 19th century building and has a nice café in its atrium. Admission 90SEK (70SEK reduced price).

• Prince Eugen's Waldemarsudde, Prins Eugens Väg 6, +46 8 545 837 00, [55]. Open 11AM-5PM (Th 11AM-8PM). Prince Eugen (1865-1947) was the son of King Oscar II and an avid art collector. His beautiful palace on Djurgården is now a museum housing his enormous art collection spanning the 1880-1940 period.

• Millesgården, Herserudsvägen 32 (on Lidingö, T Ropsten and then the Lidingöbanan train to Baggeby or buses to Torsvik), +46 8 446 75 90, [56]. Open M-Su 11AM-5PM 15 May-30 Sep, Tu-Su noon-5PM 1 Oct-14 May. In the former residence and studio of the famous sculptor Carl Milles, his own work is showcased alongside contemporary Swedish and international artists. A new extension was recently built for temporary exhibitions. Adult admission 80SEK.

• Nordiska Museet (Nordic Museum), Djurgårdsvägen 6-16 (On Djurgården, just after the Djurgården Bridge. Bus 44 or 47, the latter from T-Centralen/Sergels Torg), +46 8 519 546 00, [57]. Open daily 10AM-5PM Jun-Aug, M-F 10AM-4PM (W 10AM-8PM) and Sa-Su 11AM-5PM Sep-May. A museum of cultural history from 1520 to our days, celebrating its 100-year anniversary, in an impressive cathedral-like building on Djurgården. Exhibitions focus on Swedish handicraft, customs and traditions. Adult admission 60SEK.

• Nobel Museum (Nobelmuseet), Stortorget (T Gamla Stan), [58]. Open Tu 11AM-8PM, W-Su 11AM-5PM 17 Sep-20 May, and 10AM-5PM (Tu 10AM-8PM) 21 May-16 Sep. Located in the old Stock Exchange house in the middle of Gamla Stan, this museum has lots of material on the Nobel Prize, including videotaped speeches by laureates. Admission 60SEK (students 40SEK, children 7-18 20SEK).

• Swedish Museum of Natural History (Naturhistoriska riksmuseet), Frescativägen 40 (T Universitetet or bus 40 from Fridhemsplan or Odenplan), [59]. Open Tu-W, F 10AM-7PM, Th 10AM-8PM, Sa-Su 11AM-7PM. The museum's collection is well-known around the globe and consists of animals, plants, fungi, minerals and fossils. The exhibits have been collected from the poles to the equator, and some were acquired during the voyages of James Cook. The museum is adjacent to Cosmonova, a large IMAX Dome cinema.

• Museum of Science and Technology (Tekniska Museet), Museivägen 7 (Bus 69 from T-Centralen/Sergels Torg), +46 8 450 56 00, [60]. Open M-F 10AM-5PM, Sa-Su 11AM-5PM. This large museum tells the tale of Sweden's strong engineering tradition. It is also suitable for small children, with the possibility to carry out your own experiments in the Teknorama section. Admission 70SEK (children 6-19 40SEK). Free entrance Wednesdays 5-8PM.

• The House of Culture (Kulturhuset), Sergels torg (T T-Centralen), [61]. Main galleries open M-F 11AM-8PM, Sa-Su 11AM-5PM. Kulturhuset, a 1970s concrete building in the middle of the modernist city centre, is operated by the city and a venue for art exhibitions and performances. The building also houses the Stockholm City Theatre, a library, restaurants, and much more. On ground level there is an Internet café.

• Transport Museum (Spårvägsmuseet), Tegelviksgatan 22 (Bus 2 from Slussen) [62]. Open M-F 10AM-5PM, Sa-Su 11AM-4PM. Maybe not for everyone, but still entertaining, Spårvägsmuseet is a museum of Stockholm's public transportation. Walking through historical buses and subway cars is quite fun but not enough text is in English. Admission 30SEK (15SEK reduced price).

Art

Beyond the art museums such as the Museum of Modern Art, the National Museum and Prince Eugen's Waldemarsudde (see Museums above), Stockholm has a vivid art scene and offers plenty of opportunities to enjoy contemporary art in galleries, exhibition halls and public places. The Stockholm official visitors guide has a list of galleries [63]. And don't forget to look at the art in the Stockholm subway stations!

Art galleries

• Between Slussen and Mariatorget, the Hornsgatan street has a narrow sett-paved side section on the north side, above the main street, nicknamed "Hornsgatspuckeln" ("the Hornsgatan bump") [64], with a lot of galleries. Some examples are the ceramics and glassware gallery blås & knåda (Hornsgatan 26, +46 8 642 77 67, [65]) and Grafiska Sällskapet ("The Swedish Printmakers' Association", Hornsgatan 6, +46 8 643 88 04, [66]).

• In the last few years, several trendsetting galleries for contemporary art have opened around Hudiksvallsgatan in Vasastan (T St Eriksplan). Among them are brandstrom stockholm (Hudiksvallsgatan 6, +46 8 660 41 53, [67]), Andréhn-Schiptjenko (Hudiksvallsgatan 8, +46 8 612 00 75, [68]), Natalia Goldin Gallery (Hudiksvallsgatan 8, +46 8 411 94 13, [69]), Nordenhake (Hudiksvallsgatan 8, +46 8 21 18 92, [70]) and ALP (Torsgatan 41, [71]).

• Östermalm is another gallery district, although the outlets here are a little further apart. Sturegatan and Karlavägen are two streets with several galleries, such as Lars Bohman Gallery (Karlavägen 16 and Sturegatan 36, [72]).

Exhibition spaces

• Magasin 3 Stockholm Konsthall, Frihamnen (Bus 1 to Frihamnen or Bus 76 to Magasin 3), +46 8 545 680 40 [73]. Open Th noon-7PM, F-Su noon-5PM (closed during the summer). Founded in 1987 and located in a former warehouse in the old Freeport district, the large exhibition space of Magasin 3 houses major exhibitions by international artists, often presenting new works.

• Bonniers konsthall, Torsgatan 19 (T St Eriksplan), +46 8 736 42 48 [74]. Open W 11AM-8PM, Th-Su 11AM-5PM (closed during the summer). This new exhibition hall, opened in 2005 by the Bonnier family, owners of Sweden's largest media empire, showcases Swedish and international contemporary art. Adults 40SEK.

• Färgfabriken, Lövholmsbrinken 1 (T Liljeholmen, Tvärbanan tram to Trekanten), +46 8 645 07 07 [75]. Open Th-Su noon-6PM (closed for much of the summer). Färgfabriken is an exhibition hall housed in an old colour factory from 1889 (the name translates to "the colour factory"), calling itself "laboratory of the contemporary". It is perhaps one of Sweden's most interesting scenes for contemporary art. Unfortunately, it is closed for most of the summer.

• Tensta konsthall, Taxingegränd 10 (T Tensta), +46 8 36 07 63, [76]. Open Tu-Su noon-5PM (closed for much of the summer). Tensta Konsthall, an exhibition hall in the multicultural western suburb of Tensta, opened in 1998 and has been met with much interest from critics for its contemporary art exhibitions.

Art colleges

• The two major art university colleges in Stockholm hold regular exhibitions where the Swedish artists of tomorrow show off their talent. Information about upcoming events are available in English on their web sites:
  • The Royal University College of Fine Arts (Kungliga konsthögskolan), Flaggmansvägen 1, Skeppsholmen (T Kungsträdgården or bus 65 from Vasagatan), +46 8 614 40 00 [77].
  • University College of Art, Crafts and Design (Konstfack), LM Ericssons väg 14 (T Telefonplan), +46 8 450 41 00 [78].

Public art

• The Stockholm subway has plenty of artistic decoration in its stations, and promotes itself as "the world’s longest art exhibition". Some of the most interesting features include the moody dark blue cave of Kungsträdgården with details from the former palace Makalös, the giant black and white "drawings" by Siri Derkert at Östermalmstorg and the celebration of science and technology at Tekniska Högskolan. In the suburbs, Rissne has a fascinating timeline of human history on its walls. A free guide in English to the art in the Stockholm Metro can be downloaded from the SL website [79].

• Among the most controversial new pieces of public art in Stockholm in recent years is the monument to Raoul Wallenberg between the adjacent squares Nybroplan and Berzelii Park (T Kungsträdgården or T Östermalmstorg). The sculpture group, consisting of twelve low black figures, by the Danish artist Kirsten Ortwed, inaugurated in 2001, has been both praised and compared to human feces.

Walking

Stockholm is a city easily enjoyed by foot, with rather few steep streets. Walk around, and be sure to enjoy the beautiful panoramas, either from the viewpoints listed in the See section, or from one of the bars and restaurants with good views: Gondolen, Herman's or the penthouse lounge of Sjöfartshotellet on Södermalm, or the SAS Radisson Hotel Skybar on Norrmalm. You will get the best view of Stockholm from the Skybar called "Och himlen därtill" located in the Skrapan building on Södermalm.

Guided tours

There is a wide selection of guided tours available, by boat, by bus and on foot.

By boat

Stockholm Sightseeing [80] (part of the Strömma group) has several different guided boat tours.

• Under the bridges of Stockholm [81] is one of the most popular. Departing from Strömkajen by Grand Hôtel and opposite the Royal Castle (T Kungsträdgården), this tour on both the sea and on lake Mälaren passes under 15 bridges and through two locks. Several departures every day, depending on the time of year. 1 hour 50 min, SEK 190.

• Royal Canal Tour [82] departs from Strömkajen and takes you around the eastern parts of the city, passing through the lush Djurgården canal. 50 min, SEK 140.

• Historical Canal Tour [83] departs from Stadshusbron next to the City Hall (T T-Centralen), and passes Kungsholmen and other western islands of the city. 50 min, SEK 140.

• Stockholm Grand Tour [84] combines a boat and a bus tour. 3 hours 30 min, SEK 395.

By bus

City Tours and Open Top Tours (also divisions of the Strömma group) offers bus tours:

• Stockholm Panorama [85] is a tour of some major tourist sights that departs from Gustaf Adolf Torg (T T-Centralen). 1 hour 30 min, SEK 240.

• The Hop-on Hop-off Bus [86] is a tour with open top double decker buses that allows you to get on and off the bus as often as you want at bus stops along the route. The tour passes some major sights, but only in the central and eastern part of the city. 24 hour travel pass 220 SEK.

Stockholm Excursions [87] has a few specialized bus tours:

• The Nobel Tour [88] visits several sights connected to Alfred Nobel and the Nobel Prize. 3 hours, SEK 400.

• The Royal Tour [89] takes you out of the city center to Ulriksdals Palace and Drottningholm Palace. 4 hours, SEK 500.

By taxi

Taxi Stockholm, +46 8 15 00 00, offers a personal guide service [90], allowing up to 4 persons to travel in their own taxi. 1 hour 30 min M-F 9AM-3PM SEK 825, other hours SEK 900. 2 hours M-F 9AM-3PM SEK 1100, other hours SEK 1200.

On foot

Talk of the town offers self-guided walking tours in six languages all year round.

• Talk of the town [91] download your own audioguide to your mobile phone or mp3-player. Audioguide at 56 of the best sights in all Stockholm. The 56 sights ar spread over the old town Gamla Stan, City, Södermalm, the island of Djurgården, at Skansen open-air museum and the Drottningholm Palace. More than 2 hour listening time, SEK 100-150.

City Tours offers a walking tour in the summer months:

• Old Town Walkabout [92] takes you through the Old Town. 1 hour, SEK 100.

For sightseeing on a higher level, Upplev mer has a special tour:

• The Rooftop Tour [93] lets you look at Stockholm from the roofs of Riddarholmen island. An exciting experience if you're not afraid of heights. April-September. 1 hour 30 min, SEK 350.

• Sweden: From the Ice Age to IKEA [94], a performance walk, runs daily between May and September. SEK 125, one child free per adult.

There are several other agencies that offer occasional guided walking tours in English during the summer months. Check with the Stockholm Tourist Centre for information.

By Bike

Talk of the town offers self-guided bike tours in six languages.

• Talk of the town [95] memory card for your mobile phone can be rented at several bike rentals in Stockholm. Load your mobile phone with audioguides at 56 of the best sights in Stockholm. Rent by hour, SEK 30 or day SEK 125.

Swimming

You are never far from water in Stockholm. There are several beaches in the inner city. They might be crowded when Swedish people have time off, but you will surely find some place.

• The island Långholmen (T Hornstull) has several good spots, including a small sandy beach.

• The largest beach in inner-city Stockholm is the child-friendly Smedsuddsbadet (T Fridhemsplan), next to the Rålambshovsparken Park.

• Fredhällsbadet (T Kristineberg) is a rocky beach on western Kungsholmen.

If the water in Lake Mälaren is too cold for your tastes, you can opt for one of the outdoor swimming pools:

• Eriksdalsbadet, Hammarby Slussväg 20 (T Skanstull), +46 8 508 40 258 [96]. Offers both indoor and outdoor Olympic-size swimming pools.

• Vanadisbadet, Sveavägen 142 (T Rådmansgatan), +46 8 34 33 00. Vanadisbadet has an adventure swimming pool with water slides and spa services. NOTE: Currently closed.

Stockholm also has several indoor swimming pools and spas in very special settings:

• Storkyrkobadet, Svartmangatan 20-22 (T Gamla Stan), +46 8 20 90 27 [97]. Open for men Tu,F,Su 5-8PM, for women M,Th 5-8PM (closed during summer). A small secret hidden in what once was a wine cellar in the old town, where you can take a bath under 18th century vaults. Note that men and women cannot visit the bath together. Adults 40SEK, includes entrance to pool and sauna.

• Centralbadet, Drottninggatan 88 (entrance from the courtyard) (T Hötorget), +46 8 545 213 15, [98]. Open M-F 6AM-8PM, Sa 8AM-8PM, Su 8AM-5PM. Located in one of Stockholm's most beautiful art noveau buildings, this is a place where you can go for a swim, have a beer in the sauna bar or enjoy a full spa treatment. Rather expensive and sometimes crowded on weekends. Adults 110SEK (150SEK F,Sa after 3PM) includes entrance to pool, jacuzzi, gym and saunas. "Breakfast bath" including breakfast M-F 7-10AM 160SEK, Sa-Su 8-11AM 195SEK. Most spa treatments 350-700SEK.

• Sturebadet, Sturegallerian 36 (T Östermalmstorg), +46 8 545 015 00, [99]. Open M-F 6:30AM-10PM, Sa-Su 9AM-7PM. Considering the fact that the entrance is located in the exclusive Östermalm shopping centre Sturegallerian, it is hardly a surprise that Sturebadet is the most exclusive spa in central Stockholm. For those who can afford it, this place offers luxury in a listed 1880s building (faithfully reconstructed after a fire in 1985). Entrance costs 495SEK (395SEK M-Th 1PM-4PM). It includes rented towel, robe and slippers, and entrance to pool, spa-section, gym and saunas. Most spa treatments 540SEK and upwards.

Sports

Stockholm is home to several elite sports teams, and if you're a sports fan you might want to watch a game. The most popular spectator sports are football (soccer) and ice hockey. Also, bandy has something of a cult following. Tickets for all games can be bought online from Ticnet [100].

Football (soccer)

The Swedish top football league, Allsvenskan, is considerably weaker than most of its Western European sister leagues, and Swedish teams generally struggle in the European cups. The fans don't seem to mind that much, and the games can still be an exciting experience. Unlike in continental Europe, the football season starts in April and ends in October. There are currently four teams from Stockholm in Allsvenskan:

• AIK plays their home games at the large Råsunda stadium, Solnavägen 51 (T Solna Centrum), a national football stadium in the north-western bordering town of Solna. The arena is Stockholm's largest, with around 35,000 seats, and although seldom sold out, the club generally attracts the biggest home crowds in Sweden.

• Djurgården plays their home games at Stockholms stadion, Lidingövägen/Vallhallavägen (T Stadion), a rather small redbrick stadium on Östermalm, built for the 1912 Stockholm Olympics. Djurgården has been the most successful team in Stockholm for the last couple of years, but has been struggling with form during 2008.

• Hammarby plays their home games at Söderstadion, Arenavägen (T Globen), a 1950s stadium just south of the inner city. The club's home games are known for their atmosphere, although recent incidents of hooliganism have somewhat marred the reputation of its enthusiastic supporters.

• Brommapojkarna plays their home games at Grimsta IP, Bromma (T Hässelby Strand). Brommapojkarna advanced to the top league in 2009.

Ice hockey

The Swedish top ice hockey league, Elitserien, is arguably the third best in the world. The season starts at the end of September and ends with finals in April. Stockholm currently has only one team in Elitserien:

• Djurgården plays some of their home games in Globen (the giant Stockholm Globe Arena) and others at the smaller, neighbouring Hovet, both Arenavägen (T Globen).

• AIK play in the second division (allsvenskan). They play their home games at Hovet.

Bandy

Bandy is a sport popular mainly in Sweden, Finland and Russia, and slowly gaining popularity in Northern America, played outdoors on ice with sticks and a small ball. The field is roughly as large as a soccer field, and the rules show some similarities. If you visit Stockholm sometime from November to February, and want an exotic experience, this is for you. Remember to dress warm, the game is played in two 45-minute halves. Stockholm currently has only one team in the top men's bandy league:

• Hammarby plays their home games at Zinkensdamms IP, Ringvägen 16 (T Zinkensdamm), on Södermalm.

• AIK plays their home games at Bergshamra IP in Solna. Both the men's and the women's teams play here. The men's team plays in the third level of the league system, while the women's team has won the Championships 12 of 20 times. In the 2008/2009 season, they are the defending champions.

Sporting events

There are several big sporting events taking place in Stockholm.

Running races

• One of the most visible sporting events is the Stockholm Marathon [101], held annually on a Saturday in late May or early June, when some 18,000 participants run two laps around the inner city, while the Stockholmers gather on the sidewalks to cheer.
  • Stockholm Marathon 2010, June 5. (Deadline for entries: February 15, 2010).

• Lidingöloppet [102] claims to be the world's largest cross-contry race. Held annually in September on Lidingö, an island east of the inner city, the 30 km running event attracts around 30,000 participants.
  • Lidingöloppet 2009, September 26.

• Midnattsloppet [103] is a 10 km night-time running event held annually in mid-August on the strets of Södermalm. There is plenty of live music and other entertainment along the course, creating a party vibe that draws huge numbers of spectators.
  • Midnattsloppet 2009, August 15.

Spectator sporting events

• DN-galan [104] is the leading track and field event in Sweden and a part of the IAAF World Athletic Tour, held annually in July in the beautiful Stockholm Olympic Stadium.
  • DN-galan 2009, July 31. (Ticket sales start December 1.)

• Stockholm Open [105]. Stockholm Open is a tennis event on the ATP Tour, held in the Royal Tennis Hall in Östermalm in October, attracting many of the world's finest tennis players.
  • Stockholm Open 2009, October 17-25.

• Stockholm International Horse Show [106]. A major international indoor equestrian event, held annually in the Stockholm Globe Arena, featuring the World Cup in dressage, show jumping and World Cup Four in Hand driving.
  • Stockholm International Horse Show 2009, November 27-29.

Cinemas

There are many cinemas in Stockholm. With the exception of children's movies, films aren't dubbed but subtitled, so if your English is good enough this is a good way to pass some time. Many cinemas are THX certified. A ticket is around 100SEK.

Many of Stockholm's most charming classic cinemas have been closed in recent years, victims of the competition from modern multiplex screens. The elegant Röda Kvarn on Biblioteksgatan was recently transformed into an Urban Outfitters store, and Astoria Nybrogatan was closed following the bankruptcy of Astoria Cinemas in 2007. A few splendid venues are especially worth a visit, while they are still around.

• Skandia, Drottninggatan 82 (T Hötorget). This 1850s building houses a 1920s cinema designed by the Stockholm Public Library architect Erik Gunnar Asplund. A beautiful and intimate setting.

Stockholm International Film Festival

In November, Stockholm hosts an annual international film festival [107] that draws large crowds.

• 20th Stockholm International Film Festival, November 18-29, 2009.

The Stockholm International Film Festival also hosts an open air cinema in the Tantolunden park during one week in August.

• Summer Cinema 2009, Tantolunden, August 12-16, 2009. [108]

• Gröna Lund, Lilla Allmänna Gränd 9 (Bus 44 or 47, the latter from Sergels Torg, or the Djurgården Ferry from Slussen or Nybroplan), +46 8 587 501 00, [109]. Open at least noon-11PM most days Jun-Aug, shorter hours in May and early Sep. Djurgården has Stockholm's only amusement park, with more or less standard attractions and games. The restaurants in the park are expensive and generally far from a culinary experience. Note that no rides are included in the entrance fee. Adults 60SEK (120SEK from 6PM on concert nights, usually Fridays). Rides 20-60SEK with single tickets, day pass 260SEK.

• Junibacken, Galärvarvsvägen (Bus 44, 47 or 69, the latter two from Sergels Torg), +46 8 587 230 00, [110]. Open daily 9AM-6PM Jul, daily 10AM-5PM Jun and Aug, Tu-Su 10AM-5PM Sep-May. Astrid Lindgren, author of Pippi Longstocking, Karlsson-on-the-Roof and numerous other children's books, is revered by almost all Swedes. Located on the island Djurgården, like many other child-friendly attractions, Junibacken could be described as an indoor theme-park dedicated to the world of her (and a few other Swedish authors') stories. There is also a restaurant. Adult admission 110SEK, children 3-15 and students 95SEK.

• Casino Cosmopol, Kungsgatan 65 (T T-Centralen), +46 8 781 88 00 [111]. Open daily 1PM-5AM. Minimum 20 years of age, photo ID required. If you find yourself longing for an international casino, the Swedish state has heard your needs. In 2003 Stockholm’s first and only casino was opened, drawing a rather diverse crowd. There is a restaurant in the casino as well. Entrance 30SEK. Dress code recommended.

• Solvalla hippodrome (Free buses from the City Terminal and T Sundbyberg before races, or a 10 min walk from T Rissne) +46 8 635 90 00 [112]. For a day at the races, you can go to Stockholm's hippodrome Solvalla in the northwestern suburbs and watch trotters compete in harness racing. Races are held Wednesday nights and many weekends. The biggest event is the prestigious Elitloppet race [113] at the end of May every year.
  • Elitloppet 2009, May 29-31.

LGBT events

Attitudes towards homosexuality are generally tolerant. In the summer (generally late July/early August), there is an annual LGBT pride festival, Stockholm Pride [114], which is the largest in Scandinavia. The national LGBT organization, RFSL [115], can provide information on other events and venues. The LGBT-magazine QX [116] has a web page with listings in English.

• Stockholm Pride 2009, July 27 to August 2, 2009.

Learn

With about 80,000 university students at more than twenty universities and university colleges, Stockholm is the largest university city in the Nordic countries. The largest institutions of higher education are Stockholm University (Stockholms universitet), the Royal Institute of Technology (Kungliga tekniska högskolan), and Södertörn University College (Södertörns högskola). Karolinska institutet is a world-class medical university. There are also several fine arts university colleges. Study in Stockholm [117] has information about university studies in Stockholm.

Buy

Sweden is internationally well-known for its design, and Stockholm has many stores where you can find Swedish-designed clothes, textiles and interior decoration items. Hand-made and hand-painted glassware is also a famous Swedish speciality.

Popular Swedish clothing brands that you can find in several major stores include Acne Jeans, WESC, Cheap Monday, J Lindeberg, Whyred, Tiger and Filippa K. Recent years have seen an explosion of young designers starting their own small labels. Many of these can be found in the small shops in the SoFo area (see below). Examples are Nakkna, Jenny Hellström, Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair and The Stray Boys.

• Gamla Stan (the old town) has plenty of small stores selling souvenirs, art, handicraft and other items mainly geared towards tourists. Although there are a number of tourist traps with tacky, grossly overpriced merchandise, especially on Västerlånggatan, you can also find nice and interesting stuff. If you want a calmer experience, try Österlånggatan or any of the other streets. From late November, Stockholm's most well-known Christmas market takes place at Stortorget (open daily 11AM-6PM) [118].

• Drottninggatan is a pedestrianised street starting at the Riksbron bridge to Gamla Stan and continuing north up to the Observatorielunden park. The section south of the Sergels torg square is a typical tourist trap, dominated by stores selling tourist souvenirs and cheap clothes, and bland and bleak restaurants. Between Sergels Torg and Kungsgatan you will find the Åhléns and PUB department stores, as well as flagship stores for some national and international clothing chains. North of Kungsgatan, there are more cafés, restaurants and smaller stores.

• Norrmalmstorg, Biblioteksgatan and the southern end of Birger Jarlsgatan, together with crossing streets and the Sturegallerian shopping centre on Stureplan, form the most upscale shopping area in the city, with brands like Emporio Armani (Biblioteksgatan 3, +46 8 678 79 80), Gucci (Birger Jarlsgatan 1, +46 8 545 005 44), Hugo Boss (Birger Jarlsgatan 28, +46 8 611 42 40, Karen Millen (Biblioteksgatan 7, +46 8 611 57 06) and Louis Vuitton (Birger Jarlsgatan 17 A, +46 8 611 92 00).

• Götgatsbacken, the northernmost section of Götgatan on Södermalm, is perhaps best known for its nightlife, but also has lots of clothes stores with different profiles, including a new, small shopping centre called Bruno.

• The SoFo district [119], the cleverly rebranded area south of eastern Södermalm's Folkungagatan, has lots of designer clothes and design shops, as well as cafés and restaurants.

• Stockholm Quality Outlet [120], Majorsvägen 2-4, Järfälla (Commuter train to Jakobsberg and then bus 567) [121]. Open M-F 11AM-8PM, Sa 10AM-5PM, Su 11AM-5PM. Close to one of Stockholm's two IKEA stores, in the suburb Barkarby, rather far out northwest of the city center, you will find a factory outlet village that claims to be the first and biggest in the Nordic countries, and promises prices 30 to 60 percent lower than in the city center stores.

Selected stores

Department stores

• Åhléns City, Klarabergsgatan 50 (T T-Centralen), +46 8 676 60 00 [122]. Open M-F 10AM-8PM, Sa 10AM-7PM, Su 11AM-6PM. A large department store in a central location, with a good selection of designer clothing brands. Also beauty products, kitchenware, interior design, records and DVDs, as well as everything else you would expect from a major department store.

• PUB, Hötorget (T Hötorget), +46 8 789 19 30 [123]. Open M-F 10AM-7PM, Sa 10AM-5PM, Su 11AM-5PM. A classic Stockholm department store founded in 1882. Following something of an identity crisis in recent years, PUB is currently undergoing a major redesign, with the intention of rebranding itself as a store for young fashion and popular culture. A few new street wear shops on the ground floor is a sign of this.

• NK (Nordiska Kompaniet), Hamngatan 18-20 (T T-Centralen), + 46 8 762 80 00 [124]. Open M-F 10AM-7PM, Sa 10AM-6PM, Su noon-4PM. A large, upmarket department store popular with affluent Stockholmers of all ages. Well-known for its elaborate Christmas shop window decorations.

Shopping centers

• Gallerian, main entrance: Hamngatan 37 (T T-Centralen or T Kungsträdgården) [125]. Open M-F 10AM-7PM, Sa 10AM-6PM, Su 11AM-5PM. A relatively large and centrally located shopping mall, where you can find many of Sweden’s major mainstream fashion chains as well as some foreign brands such as Topshop/Topman, French Connection, Esprit and United Colors of Benetton.

• Sturegallerian, main entrance: Stureplan (T Östermalmstorg) [126]. Open M-F 10AM-7PM, Sa 10AM-6PM, Su 12AM-5PM. Opened in 1989, Sturegallerian is the most exclusive (and expensive) shopping center in central Stockholm, with stores carrying a good selection of exclusive brands. Also the home of the upmarket restaurants Sturehof and Tures and the nightclub Sturecompagniet.

• Västermalmsgallerian, Sankt Eriksgatan 45 (T Fridhemsplan) [127]. Open M-F 10AM-7PM, Sa 10AM-5PM, Su 11AM-5PM. Opened in 2002, Västermalmsgallerian on Kungsholmen is good-looking but relatively small.

• Ringen, Ringvägen 100 (T Skanstull), [128]. Open M-F 10AM-7PM, Sa 10AM-5PM, Su 12AM-5PM. Fashion, home decor, restaurants and more.

• Skrapan, Götgatan 78 (T Skanstull/T Medborgarplatsen) [129]. A rather small shopping centre, opened in 2007, with a number of fashion stores and a rather diverse collection of other shops, in part geared towards the students living in the skyscraper on top.

• Bruno, Götgatan 36 (T Slussen). A very small indoor shopping centre with a handful of fashion stores focusing on street wear.

Suburban shopping centers and malls

There are a number of shopping centers and malls in the major suburban centers surrounding the inner city. While different in size, they all have a similar profile, with cheap restaurants, supermarkets and major fashion, electronics and interior design chain stores, as well as some smaller shops. There is no obvious reason to venture outside the city centre, except perhaps for the possibility of Sunday evening shopping at Kista Galleria when inner-city shops all have closed.

• Farsta Centrum, (T Farsta), [130]. Open M-F 10AM-7PM, Sa 10AM-5PM, Su 11AM-5PM.

• Globen Shopping, (T Globen), [131]. Next to the Globe Arena, Globen. Open M-F 10AM-7PM, Sa 10AM-5PM, Su 11AM-5PM.

• Vällingby Centrum, (T Vällingby), [132]. Most stores open M-F 10AM-7PM, Sa 10AM-5PM, Su 11AM-5PM.

• Skärholmen Centrum, (T Skärholmen), [133]. Open M-F 10AM-7PM, Sa 10AM-5PM, Su 11AM-5PM.

• Kista Galleria, (T Kista), [134]. Open daily 10AM-9PM.

Fashion

• Weekday, Drottninggatan 65 (T Hötorget), +46 8 411 29 70. Open M-F 10AM-7PM, Sa 10AM-6PM, Su 11AM-5PM. Olofsgatan 1 (T Hötorget), +46 8 411 51 50. Open M-F 11AM-7PM, Sa 11AM-5PM, Su 12AM-4PM. Götgatan 21 (T Slussen), +46 8 642 17 72, [135]. Open M-F 11AM-8PM, Sa 11AM-6PM, Su 12AM-5PM. Three stores (the Drottninggatan one being the largest) with a focus on young fashion and street wear. Large assortment of the popular Swedish jeans Cheap Monday, which, surprisingly, is rather cheap.

• Sneakersnstuff, Åsögatan 124, +46 8 743 03 22, [136]. Open M-F 11AM-6:30PM, Sa 11AM-5PM, Su 12AM-4PM. Passionate about sneakers, this store has a huge assortment of contemporary and classic designs, including limited-range models.

• Boutique Sportif, Kocksgatan 60 A (T Medborgarplatsen), +46 8 411 12 13, [137]. Open M-F 11:30AM-6:30PM, Sa 11AM-5PM. Somewhat odd shop with a large number of very hip and rather expensive street wear brands.

• Sivletto, Malmgårdsvägen 16-18 (T Skanstull), +46 8 643 39 72[138]. Open Tu-Th noon-7PM, F noon-6PM, Sa noon-4PM. Going through a rather anonymous door on a silent back street, down a spiral staircase leading down into a dimly lit cellar, it is hard to believe you're on the right track. But when you step down, you will find yourself in the midst of a fascinating celebration of American 1950’s culture. Retro and vintage clothes, but also a lot of other stuff from the era, as well as a hairdresser and a café. Well worth a visit just for a look around.

Brand stores of Swedish fashion labels:

• Acne, Norrmalmstorg 2 (T Kungsträdgården or T Östermalmstorg), +46 8 611 64 11 and Nytorgsgatan 36 (T Medborgarplatsen), +46 8 640 04 70 [139]. Denim and some inventive young fashion.

• Carin Rodebjer, Jakobsbergsgatan 6, (T Östermalmstorg),+46 8 410 460 95 [140]. Exclusive womens' fashion.

• Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair, Bondegatan 46 B (T Medborgarplatsen), +46 8 642 80 55 [141]. Traditional tailoring, modern designs, mostly in black and white.

• Filippa K, Biblioteksgatan 2 (T Östermalmstorg), +46 8 611 88 03, Grev Turegatan 18 (T Östermalmstorg), +46 8 545 888 88 and Götgatan 36 (Man) +46 8 615 70 80/Götgatan 23 (Women), +46 8 556 985 85 (T Slussen). Everyday fashion with a broad appeal.

• J Lindeberg, Grev Turegatan 9 (T Östermalmstorg) [142]. Straightforward, casual menswear.

• Nakkna, Tjärhovsgatan 3 (T Medborgarplatsen), +46 8 615 29 50 [143]. Sophisticated young fashion in low-key colors.

• The Stray Boys, Smålandsgatan 9 (T Östermalmstorg), +46 8 611 65 10 [144]. Exclusive street wear with an edge.

• WESC, Kungsgatan 66 (T Hötorget), +46 8 21 25 15 [145]. Colorful street wear.

• Whyred, Mäster Samuelsgatan 5 (T Östermalmstorg), +46 8 660 01 70 and Götgatan 36 (inside Bruno, T Slussen), [146]. Laidback minimalistic designs in low-key colors, often with some interesting details.

Some great second hand stores:

• Lisa Larsson, Bondegatan 48.
• Beyond Retro, Åsögatan 144.
• Emmaus, Götgatan 14.
• Myrorna, Götgatan 79.
• Judiths, Hornsgatan 75.
• La Principessa, Rosenlundsgatan 1.
• Sko dig, Hagagatan 4.
• Nu och då, Norrtullsgatan 31.
• Little shop of fashion, S:t Eriksgatan 68.
• Vilse i Garderoben, Hantverkargatan 59.

Books

• Akademibokhandeln, Mäster Samuelsgatan 28 (T T-Centralen). Stockholm's largest bookstore, with a large selection of books in English as well as many international magazines.

• Bok-Skotten, Regeringsgatan 55 (T T-Centralen). [147]. Discount bookstore with a general selection. (Across the street from the Akademibokhandeln listed above.)

• Hedengrens bokhandel, Sturegallerian (T Östermalmstorg), [148]. A sophisticated bookstore with books in Swedish, English and other languages. They focus more on arty books than bestsellers.

• Sweden Bookshop, Slottsbacken 10 (T Gamla Stan or T Kungsträdgården), +46 8 453 78 00, [149]. Open M-F 10AM-6PM, Sa (Jul-Aug) 11AM-4PM. Whether you’re looking for a Swedish cookbook, a glossy coffee-table book on Swedish design or Swedish fiction in English translation, this is the place to go. Part of the Swedish Institute, Sweden Bookshop is a specialized bookstore that supplies a broad selection of information about Sweden and Swedish literature in English and other languages.

• Science Fiction Bokhandeln, Västerlånggatan 48 (T Gamla Stan) [150]. A bookshop selling science fiction, fantasy, horror, manga/anime, role-playing games, and some popular science; a lot of it is in English.

Music and media

• Pet Sounds Records, Skånegatan 53 (T Medborgarplatsen) [151]. A record store with independent pop, alternative rock and other genres of music with more cred than chart placements. A real institution among Stockholm's music fans.

• Multi Kulti, S:t Paulsgatan 3 (T Slussen), +46 8 643 61 29 [152]. A small but well-stocked music store specialising in the genres popularly called "world music", with welcoming and knowledgeable staff.

• Megastore, Sergels torg (T T-Centralen), +46 8 566 157 00. A large mainstream media store with all kinds of records, DVDs and computer games.

• For some odd reason, most of Stockholm’s second hand record shops are clustered in the area between Odenplan and St Eriksplan. Some examples (starting from the Odenplan end) are Cosmos Factory and Stockholms Skivbörs (both Upplandsgatan 47), Marquee Records (Odengatan 86), Runtrunt (Odengatan 90) [153], The Beat Goes On Records (St Eriksgatan 67) [154], Record Hunter (St Eriksgatan 70) [155], Skivbörsen (St Eriksgatan 71), and Atlas CD-Börs (St Eriksgatan 78). Most are open M-F 11AM-6PM, Sa 11AM-3PM.

Food and drink

• Östermalms Saluhall, Östermalmstorg (T Östermalmstorg) [156]. A market hall in a beautiful 1880s redbrick building, with all kinds of expensive food.

• Kosherian Blecher & Co, Nybrogatan 19 (T Östermalmstorg), +46 8 663 65 80 [157]. Open M-Tu,Th 11AM-6PM, W 11AM-9:30PM, F 9AM-1hour before Shabbat (shorter opening hours during the summer). Kosherian is Stockholm's only Kosher food store. There are no kosher restaurants in Stockholm, but Kosherian offers catering and can prepare light meals.

• Systembolaget [158]. Generally open M-W 10AM-6PM, Th-F 10AM-7PM, Sa 10AM-3PM, all stores closed Su. If you want to buy alcoholic beverages in Sweden (with the exception of low-alcohol "folköl" beer), you literally have no other choice than Systembolaget, the state-operated monopoly chain. The stores have a wide assortment and helpful, knowledgeable staff. Swedish alcohol taxation makes beer and hard liquor expensive. Surprisingly, more exclusive wines can be a bargain. A Swedish specialty is kryddat brännvin, herb-flavoured aquavit. Note that Systembolaget is not allowed to sell items chilled. You need to be able to prove that you are over 20 years old, so be sure to bring photo ID. For more information, see the section on Systembolaget in the Sweden article. Central locations include:
  • Lilla Nygatan 18 (T Gamla Stan).
  • Klarabergsgatan 62 (T T-Centralen). Extra late hours: Closes 8PM all weekdays.
  • Regeringsgatan 44 (T T-Centralen). The largest Systembolaget store in Stockholm, with a special selection of exclusive wines.
  • Vasagatan 25 (T T-Centralen)
  • Nybrogatan 47 (T Östermalmstorg)
  • Folkungagatan 56 (T Medborgarplatsen),

Glassware

• The large department stores Åhléns, NK and PUB (see above) all have a wide selection of glassware.

• Duka, several locations: Västerlånggatan 78, +46 8 22 88 07, Sveavägen 24-26, +46 8 10 45 30, Konserthuset, Kungsgatan 41, +46 8 20 60 41. Duka is a Swedish chain selling both cheaper household items and a limited selection of glassware in several stores in central Stockholm.

• Nordiska Kristall, several locations: Kungsgatan 9 (T Östermalmstorg), +46 8 10 43 72, Österlånggatan 1 (T Gamla Stan), +46 8 10 77 18, also in Strand Hotel, Grand Hotel and City Hotel [159]. Nordiska Kristall is an exclusive shop for crystal design glass. The Kungsgatan store has an art-glass gallery.

• Orrefors & Kosta Boda, Birger Jarlsgatan 15 (T Östermalmstorg), +46 8 545 040 84 [160]. Flagship store for two of Sweden's most well-known glassworks.

Furniture and design

• R.O.O.M, Alströmergatan 20 (T Fridhemsplan), +46 8 692 50 00 [161]. Open M-F 10AM-6PM, Sa 10AM-4PM. A large Habitat-like shop full of tasteful modern furniture, textiles and interior design, as well as kitchen utensils and garden accessories.

• Svenskt Tenn, Strandvägen 5 (T Östermalmstorg), +46 8 617 16 00 [162]. Open M-F 10AM–6PM, Sa 10AM–3PM. Well known store for high-quality exclusive Swedish design. Very upmarket.

• DesignTorget, several locations, including: Kulturhuset/Sergels Torg, +46 8 21 91 50, and Götgatan 31 (T Slussen), +46 8 462 35 20 [163]. Open M-F 10AM-7PM, Sa 10AM-5PM, Su 12AM-6PM. A design store specialising in smaller items, ranging from the beautiful to the useful to the downright eccentric.

• Tio gruppen/Ten Swedish designers, Götgatan 25 (T Slussen) [164].
• Bolagret, Inside "Ringen", Götgatan 98 (T Skanstull), [165].
• Castor, Österlånggatan 27 (T Gamla stan).
• Village, Kungsgatan 27 (T Hötorget or T Östermalmstorg), [166].

Miscellaneous

• Coctail, Skånegatan 71 (T Medborgarplatsen), +46 8 642 07 40, and Cocktail Deluxe, Bondegatan 34 (T Medborgarplatsen), +46 8 642 07 41 [167]. Open M-F 11AM-6PM, Sa 11AM-4PM, Su (generally) noon-4PM. Two rather eccentric sister stores with a collection of colourful household items and other stuff. Good for small gifts.

• Clas Ohlson, in Gallerian shopping centre, Hamngatan 37 (T T-Centralen), +46 8 545 189 90 [168]. A large low-price electronics and DIY store. One of the cheaper options if you’re looking for an electric adapter, a hair dryer or some batteries.

Eat

Stockholm features a large variety of restaurants, reflecting the diversity of its population. However, dining in Stockholm can be rather expensive, if you aim for something a bit more memorable than the run-of-the-mill English-style pubs and Westernized Asian restaurants that dominate the budget bracket. Be prepared to pay around 175-250SEK, or more, for most main courses at quality restaurants. If you are on a really tight budget, self-catering is probably the best option.

Most restaurants have "dagens rätt" - a lunch offer, normally including non-alcoholic beverages, bread, butter, salad and coffee M-F, usually 11AM-2PM. Expect to pay between 60-80SEK. Many Asian, Indian, Mexican and fast food restaurants offer rather cheap "all you can eat" lunch buffets.

Sweden has enforced non-smoking in all bars, pubs and restaurants. Smoking is usually only permitted outdoors.

Note that many Stockholm restaurants are closed for vacation for a few weeks in July and/or early August. In December, many restaurants offer an (often rather expensive) "julbord" ("Christmas buffet"), a variation of the classic Swedish smörgåsbord with traditional seasonal dishes such as ham, pickled herring, "lutfisk" (stockfish from cod or ling, prepared with lye) and much more.

Cafés

Taking a break for coffee and a cookie is a Swedish tradition, commonly called fika in Swedish, and there are many coffee-bars around the city. Traditional Swedish filter coffee is relatively strong when compared to American, but a far cry from the Italian espresso. In recent years, espresso, caffe latte, cappuccino and other varieties of Italian coffee have generally become available in most inner city coffee shops. If you prefer tea, note that many cafés only offer a few flavours, and only in teabags.

Although you won't find the largest international franchises such as Starbucks and Costa among Stockholm's coffee shops, there are several Swedish counterparts - Wayne's Coffee, Robert's Coffee and Espresso House are the most common names here - that are strikingly similar in design. Just as everywhere else, the small local cafés offer a more personal experience, and often (but far from always) better coffee.

Don't hesitate to ask for a refill at self-service cafeterias, as it is often free.

Södermalm & Gamla stan

• Muggen, Götgatan 24 (T Slussen). A mainstream café with modern design in a central Södermalm location.

• Cafe Rival, Mariatorget 3 (T Mariatorget). A nice café, which like the hotel next door is owned by Benny Andersson of ABBA fame. (You won't find any traces of ABBA in the place, though.)

• Skåningen Kaffebar, Skånegatan 12 (T Medborgarplatsen). Very good coffee with excellent personal service. Small outdoor service where you can smoke.

• Cafe Helgalundens Korta Varor, Grindsgatan 35 (T Skanstull). Extraordinarily good coffee and sandwiches. Not to mention the service. They also carry a good selection of Swedish indie music, some truly hard-to-find DVD's and a few freshly printed T-shirts. All of it is sold at very affordable prices.

• Fåfängan - Café and Restaurant at the top of Klockstapelsbacken (Buses from T Slussen to Londonviadukten) [169]. A café close to the eastern tip of Södermalm with a good view of the city. Music some days during lunchtime.

• Copacabana, Hornstulls strand 3 (T Hornstull), +46 8 669 29 39. Open M-Th 10AM-9PM, F-Su 10AM-7PM. Copacabana calls itself a queer feminist café and draws a LGBT crowd from all over the city, as well as locals both gay and straight. Friendly atmosphere and afternoon sun on a few outdoor tables.

• Vurma, Bergsunds strand 31 (T Hornstull) [170]. Also on Kungsholmen and in Vasastan.

• Café Puck, Hornsgatan 32 (T Slussen or Mariatorget) [171].

• String, Nytorgsgatan 38 (T Medborgarplatsen or Skanstull) [172]. WiFi access.

• Chokladkoppen & Kaffekoppen, Stortorget 18-20 (T Gamla Stan), Kaffekoppen and Chokladkoppen (literally, the Coffee Cup and the Chocolate Cup) are two LGTB-friendly sister cafes situated on the Stortorget in Gamla Stan, just off the touristy Västerlånggatan. If one is full you can just walk over to the other one. The interior in both of them is small but cosy, probably not for the claustrophobic! Gigantic sandwhiches if you're hungry, and if you're looking for something sweet try their chocolate cake!

• Chocolates Caffe House, Österlånggatan 31, S-111 31 Stockholm. An amazing little chocolate shop where milkshakes (with 3 scoops of ice cream, a chunk of chocolate) go for 70 SEK, and 50ish SEK for four scoops of ice cream. You can also freely take the handmade chocolates by the cash register, and the owner is very friendly.

Norrmalm & Östermalm

• Cafe Panorama, Kulturhuset's [173] 5th floor (T T-Centralen). A large café with large windows and a nice open terrace overlooking the lively Sergels torg.

• Cafe Ritorno, Odengatan 78 (T Odenplan). Nice café with personal service. Small outdoor service in the summer.

• Mellqvist Bar, Rörstrandsgatan 4 (T St Eriksplan). Thought by some to serve the best coffee in Stockholm. Expect to drink while standing in this very small coffee bar.

• Non Solo Bar, Odengatan 34 (T Odenplan) [174]. An Italian cafe whose baristas have won the Swedish barista championships multiple times. Amazing espressos and cappuccinos and a quite nice assortment of sandwiches.

• Konditori Valand, Surbrunnsgatan 48 (T Rådmansgatan), +46 8 30 04 76. This is an old-style Swedish "konditori" with its 1954 interior almost completely intact. Still owned and operated by the wife of the original designer, this place is a piece of living Swedish history.

Kungsholmen

• Cafe Fix, Sankt Eriksgatan 35. Stockholm's oldest coffee shop. 25SEK for coffee, 5SEK for refill. Nice food.

Budget

Norrmalm & Östermalm

• Hötorgshallen, Hötorget (T Hötorget), [175]. Open M-Th 10AM-6PM, F 10AM-6:30PM (10AM-6PM 1 Jun-31 Jul), Sa 10AM-4PM (10AM-3PM 1 Jun-31 Jul). Deli market situated in the basement of the cinema Filmstaden Sergel. Here you can get everything from sushi via meze to Swedish meatballs. Most places offer good value for money.

• Kungshallen, Kungsgatan 44 (T Hötorget), [176]. Food court with a wide variety of ethnic foods, across the street from Hötorget. Mostly good value.

• Planet Food, inside Östermalmshallen, Östermalmstorg (T Östermalmstorg). Open during lunch hours. Although the deli market Östermalmshallen is rather upmarket and its restaurants generally on the expensive side, Planet Food is an exception, offering a decent selection of excellent and very fresh wraps for 55SEK. Salads and juices are also on the menu.

• Restaurang Sumlen, in the basement of Kungliga Biblioteket (the Royal Library) in the Humlegården park (T Östermalmstorg) [177]. Open M-F 9:30AM-4PM. In an area where sit-down lunches are expensive, Sumlen, catering to poor PhD students, offer simple but decent meals for 58SEK. Closed in July.

• Max, Central Station (T T-Centralen) and Norrmalmstorg (T Östermalmstorg or T Kungsträdgården). Hamburgers in Swedish style. Free Wi-Fi, restrooms and coffee!

• Sandys, several locations throughout the city: Sergelarkaden 6 (T T-Centralen), Klarabergsgatan 31 (T T-Centralen), Stureplan 2 (T Östermalmstorg) and Götgatan 28 (T Slussen), [178]. A large Stockholm-based fast food chain focusing on submarine sandwiches, wraps and salads, Sandys offer a wide selection, reliable quality and acceptable prices, although not by any means a bargain. Sandwiches 49SEK (excluding drinks), XL sandwiches 59SEK, salads 65SEK.

• Gooh!, Klarabergsviadukten 49 (T T-Centralen), Norrlandsgatan 15 (T Östermalmstorg), +46 8 21 08 50 [179]. All open at least M-F 9AM-6PM. Although the name may be strange the food is not. The Gooh! concept is quality microwave-ready dishes that you can heat and eat on the premises or take away. Mains 39-69SEK.

• Fattoush / Roppongi / Panini, Hamngatan 31 (T T-Centralen or T Kungsträdgården). A small three-restaurant food court in a central location between the Gallerian shopping center and the NK department store. Fattoush has tasty Lebanese fast food, Roppongi has decent sushi, and Panini offers a selection of sandwiches and salads.

Södermalm & Gamla Stan

Evening restaurant dining in Gamla Stan is quite expensive - expect to pay around 120SEK for a starter and 250SEK for a main course. Check the evening menu price rather than the boards outside - the prices displayed outside are often lunch offers only. In winter months restaurant kitchens seem to close at around 9.30PM, so dine early!

• Folkets kebab, Hornsgatan 92 (T Zinkensdamm), and Folkungagatan 62 (T Medborgarplatsen), both on Södermalm. Very nice kebab shops. The buffet at Medborgarplatsen (open 11AM-7PM) is great, 69 SEK.

• Creperie fyra knop, Svartensgatan 4 (T Slussen), +46 8 640 77 27. Open 5-11PM. Authentic French-speaking crêpes/galettes place. The place is often crowded and the service can be very French, in all senses of the word, but the food is excellent. Booking recommended. Mains 70-92SEK.

• Nystekt Strömming, Södermalmstorg (T Slussen). Typical Swedish food! Fried herring in all variants, e.g. with mashed potato. Just a small stand, a few metres outside the northern exit of the Slussen subway station. Very good and quite famous! Open 11AM-6PM in the summer, 11AM-3PM in winter.

• Health Bar & Café, Repslagargatan 16 (T Slussen). This small and rather anonymous restaurant serves surprisingly good budget Asian food, with a healthy profile. No alcoholic beverages. Closes early.

• Galleria Slussen, Katarinavägen 1 (T Slussen). Just across the bridge from Gamla Stan, has several cheap dining options, though the only one open late is McDonalds.

Mid-range

Norrmalm & Östermalm

• Tennstopet, Dalagatan 50 (T Odenplan), +46 8 32 25 18 [180]. Open M-F 4PM-1AM, Sa-Su 1PM-1AM. More traditional Swedish cooking. On one evening in August each year they will serve the Swedish culinary delicacy Surströmming (fermented herring). Mains 130-265SEK, slightly lower prices at the bar.

• Claes på hörnet, Surbrunnsgatan 20 (T Tekniska Högskolan), +46 816 51 36 [181]. Tracing its history back to 1731, the inn Claes på Hörnet (in literal translation "Claes on the Corner") serves traditional Swedish food in more or less modern forms. The 18th century-inspired dining environment adds to the enjoyment. The inn also has 10 hotel rooms in 18th century style. Mains 145-265SEK.

• Prinsen, Mäster Samuelsgatan 4 (T Östermalmstorg), +46 8 611 13 31 [182]. Open M-F 11:30AM-11:30PM, Sa 1-11:30PM, Su 5-10:30PM. Traditional Swedish dishes on the more exclusive side, as well as some French bistro classics, all in a very nice setting. Mains 169-299SEK.

• Operabaren and Backfickan, Operahuset, Kungsträdgården (T Kungsträdgården) [183] [184]. Two restaurants in the Royal Opera house, sharing the same menu. Much more laidback, and considerably less expensive than the formal fine dining restaurant Operakällaren and the celebrity-obsessed nightclub Café Opera in the same building. Operabaren and Backfickan specialise in traditional Swedish cuisine. The rustique "back pocket" Backfickan is slightly cheaper, but does not allow reservations. Mains: Bakfickan 130-260SEK, Operabaren 150-300SEK.

• Peppar, Torsgatan 34 (T St Eriksplan), +46 8 34 20 52. Awesome Cajun and Creole food at decent prices. Some have argued that they make the best burger in the city. The place is especially known for having excessive decorations at all major holidays like Christmas and Halloween. They also make really good jalapeño bread.

• Byn Creperie & Ciderie, Rödabergsgatan 11A (T St Eriksplan). Galettes, crêpes, moules and cider in an authentic atmosphere with chansons on the stereo. Mains 89-169SEK.

• Döden i grytan, Norrtullsgatan 61 (T Odenplan) [185]. Like a neighbourhood Italian restaurant, but with great chefs that really know what they are doing. The winner of Dagens Nyheter's Gulddraken award 2006 in the medium-priced restaurant category. Mains 95-295SEK.

• Seikoen, Tegelbacken 2 (T T-Centralen) [186]. Classy sushi restaurant with a great view over the water and the old town. There are many cheaper sushi places in Stockholm, but it's worth the price to eat here instead. Mains 140-245SEK.

• Phi Phi Island, Birger Jarlsgatan 121 (T Tekniska Högskolan), +46 8 612 03 01. Authentic Thai restaurant with great food. The location is a little strange, but that's an opportunity to get off the beaten path and see the real Stockholm. Mains 110-195SEK.

• Lao Wai, Luntmakargatan 74 (T Rådmansgatan), +46 8 673 78 00 [187]. A vegan restaurant with spicy, tasty Chinese dishes, mainly from the genuine Sichuanese and Taiwanese cuisines. Authentic high quality ingredients, and excellent cooking that will appeal to non-vegetarians as well. Mains 125-185SEK. Lunch 80SEK.

• Örtagården, Nybrogatan 31 (T Östermalmstorg), +46 8 662 17 28. Lunch M-F 10:30AM-4PM, dinner M-F 4-9:30PM, Sa 11AM-11PM, Su 11AM-9PM. Located on the top floor of the Östermalmshallen food market, Örtagården serves a sumptuous vegetarian buffet with hot and cold vegetarian dishes at a decent price. There is also a "back pocket" serving meat dishes. Vegetarian weekday buffet lunch 85SEK, vegetarian weekday dinner and weekend buffet 135SEK.

• Blå Porten, Djurgårdsvägen 64, +46 8 663 87 59. Open M-F 11AM-PM, Sa-Su 11AM-7PM. Most of the mid-range options in the tourist-dense Djurgården offer a simple, overpriced and uninspiring fare. Blå porten, hidden in the back yard of Liljevalchs konsthall, is the one exception. Delicious food in a lush garden makes the long queues worth it. The excellent cakes and pies also makes this a good choice for a coffee break.

Södermalm & Gamla Stan

• Pelikan, Blekingegatan 40 (T Skanstull), +46 8 556 090 90 (Reservations +46 8 556 090 92). (See also the "drink" section). Offers a small selection of Swedish dishes (including the famous Köttbullar (meatballs)). The selection changes according to the season. The food is excellent and very good value for the money.

• Svejk, Östgötagatan 35 (T Medborgarplatsen), +46 8 641 33 66 [188]. On the cheap end of mid-range, this friendly, cozy and unpretentious Czech restaurant serves Central European fare and a wide selection of Czech beer. Great value for money.

• Roxy, Nytorget 6. (T Medborgarplatsen), +46 8 6409655 [189]. Open Tu-Th 5-12PM, F-Sa 5PM-1AM, Su 5-12PM. The place where Stockholm’s gays and lesbians go out to eat or just hang out in the bar. Straight-friendly and with good food.

• Ho's, Hornsgatan 151 (T Hornstull), +46 8 844420. Open Tu-Th 4-11:30PM, F 4-11PM, Sa 2:30-11PM, Su 2:30-10:30PM. While Stockholm has a fair number of cheap Chinese restaurants, most serve a rather bland and watered-down version of the most popular Westernised staple dishes. While the competition is not all that fierce, Ho's stand out as a quality choice, with a wide selection of dishes with more spice and taste.

• Koh Phangan, Skånegatan 57 (T Medborgarplatsen) [190]. Authentic Thai restaurant with great food. Booking recommended.

• Hermans, Fjällgatan 23 (T Slussen), +46 8 643 94 80 [191]. Sumptuous weekend vegetarian buffet (theme changes weekly) followed by delicious coffees, teas, and desserts (140-190SEK depending on beverage/dessert choice). The view over Stockholm is amazing, go there at sunset and sit on the back terrace. They sometimes have live entertainment.

• Nem nem qúan, Åsögatan 90 (T Medborgarplatsen), +46 8 641 94 47. Excellent and decently authentic vietnamese food. Cheap lunch offers. Booking recommended.

Kungsholmen

• Mäster Anders, Pipersgatan 1 (T-Rådhuset), +46 8 654 20 01. French and Swedish cuisine with an emphasis on grilled meats. Mains 145-295SEK.

• Kungsholmen, Norr Mälarstrand, kajplats 464 (T Rådhuset). Maybe on the expensive side of what constitutes mid-range, but this refined food court concept in a beautiful Kungsholmen quay location offers large portions of really tasty food in a variety of styles. Mains 175-260SEK.

Splurge

Norrmalm & Östermalm

• Café Opera and Operakällaren, Operahuset, Kungsträdgården (T Kungsträdgården) [192] [193]. Situated in the building of the Royal Opera, Café Opera has for long been the place if you want to be seen with celebrities. Offers good food and drinks. Dress code applies. In the same building you'll find a beautiful dining room of the formal and extremely expensive Operakällaren. If you want a less costly option, consider the other two restaurants at the Opera: Operabaren and Backfickan (see Mid-range above). Mains: Café Opera 195-325SEK, Operakällaren 210-450SEK.

• F12, Fredsgatan 12 (T T-Centralen), +46 8 24 80 52 [194]. Open M-F 11:30AM-2PM, 5-10:30PM, Sa 5-10:30 PM. The stylish F12 (short for the centrally located address) is regarded as one of the best fine dining experiences in Stockholm by most critics, including White Guide, the most ambitious Swedish restaurant guide. Mains 270-520SEK, 7-course tasting menus 1095SEK.

• Esperanto, Kungstensgatan 2 (T Tekniska Högskolan), +46 8 696 23 23 [195]. Open Tu-Sa 6PM-1AM (closed July and early August). Just a notch below F12 on the White Guide ranking, Esperanto offers innovative tasting menus featuring many examples of advanced cooking. Some of the best value for money in the top class niche. Tasting menus 745 or 1075SEK.

Södermalm & Gamla Stan

• Leijontornet, Lilla Nygatan 5 (T Gamla Stan), +46 8 506 400 80, [196]. Open M-F 11:30AM-2PM, 6-10PM, Sa 6-10PM. With the foundations of a city wall tower behind glass in the cellar dining room, Leijontornet is about exclusive food with a traditionalist slant in an exclusive historical environment. The street-level bar next door is a surprisingly vivid place with cheaper dishes from the kitchen. Three-course dinner 745SEK. Mains in Leijonbaren 115-210SEK.

• Den Gyldene Freden, Österlånggatan 51 (T Gamla Stan), +46 8 24 97 60 [197]. Open M-F 5-11PM, Sa 1-11PM (closed M in July and early August). The members of the Swedish Academy eat here every Thursday. Old traditions (traced back to 1722) in the old town. The reputation allows "The Golden Peace" to charge high prices. Mains 165-335SEK, three-course menus 565-675SEK.

• Gondolen, Stadsgården 6 (T Slussen), +46 8 641 70 90, [198]. Gondolen is a fancy and expensive restaurant run by the famous chef Erik Lallerstedt, in the peculiar 1930s elevator building Katarinahissen. There is an inexpensive branch named Köket in the same premises where you can eat the best of Swedish cuisine for considerably less than in the main dining room, although you'll miss out on the fabulous view of the city. Dress code may apply! Mains in main dining room 185-300SEK, tasting menu 650SEK.

Kungsholmen

• Lux, Primusgatan 116 (Lilla Essingen, bus 1), +46 8 619 01 90 [199]. Open Tu-Fr 11:30AM-2PM, 5-11PM, Sa 5-11PM. In a waterside location on one of Stockholm’s smaller islands, Lux offers both a relaxed atmosphere and some very good modern cooking. Mains 315-345SEK, tasting menu 940SEK.

Suburbs and bordering towns

• Edsbacka krog, Sollentunavägen 220 (Commuter train to Sollentuna, buses 607, 627 to Edsbacka), +46 8 96 33 00 [200]. Open M-F 5:30-12PM, Sa 2-12PM (Edsbacka Krog is closing down on 27th of February 2010). Located 15 km north of central Stockholm, Sollentuna’s rather traditionalist Edsbacka Krog is the only Swedish restaurant with two stars in the Michelin Guide Rouge. Extensive wine list. Mains 370-420SEK, menus 750-1200SEK.

Drink

The most famous nightlife district is Stureplan, at the crossing of Birger Jarlsgatan, Kungsgatan and Sturegatan, (T Östermalmstorg). The mushroom-shaped rain shelter is a common meeting point. High entrance fees (100SEK or more), long lines and doormen with a bad temper.

Major bar streets are Götgatan (where most places are rather cheap pubs) and Bondegatan (with a younger and more trendy crowd), both on Södermalm, Rörstrandsgatan in eastern Vasastan (also rather trendy, but drawing a slightly older crowd) and the area around the Rådhuset subway station on Kungsholmen (with many small and relaxed places).

Most restaurants and bars close at 1AM. Larger clubs usually close at 3AM. There are an exclusive few open till 5AM (currently The Lab, Solidaritet at Stureplan, La Camera at Norrmalmstorg and S/S Patricia at Slussen (a steamship)).

It is common that the more trendy bars have a long queue from midnight till closing time. Get out early (at least before midnight), well-dressed and not too drunk, and you will be welcome at most clubs.

If you can read Swedish, you can get more information about Stockholm's nightlife in the free monthly magazine Nöjesguiden, the newspaper Dagens Nyheter on Thursdays, and the free Metro and Stockholm City on Fridays.

Budget

Södermalm

If you are looking for good value for your money, you should try to find a place in Stockholm's Södermalm district. A good starting point would be the subway station Medborgarplatsen.

• Carmen, Tjärhovsgatan 14 (T Medborgarplatsen). Cheap beer and a lot of broke hipsters at this Södermalm bar.

• Gröne Jägaren, Götgatan 64 (T Medborgarplatsen). Cheap beer since 1692 and karaoke. There are several other places in the hood and you will probably find a seat.

• Kelly's, Folkungagatan 49 (T Medborgarplatsen). Cheap beer, cider and shots. Minimum age of 23 to enter. Hard rock scene. You will blend in well if you wear black leather and tattoos.

Kungsholmen

Another good starting point for a late night out is in the Kungsholmen district. Located around the Fridhemsplan subway station of Fridhemsplan, you can find quite a few cheap places.

• Dovas, S:t Eriksgatan 53 A. Cheap beer, 30SEK for a 500ml bottle of Norrlands Guld or another local ale. There is a nightclub opposite which most of the young locals seem to disappear into when this place closes.

• Theodoras, S:t Eriksgatan 53 B. Located about 10 metres further down the street, with the same owner, it is basically a quieter copy of its brother, Dovas.

• Nivå 22, Fridhemsgatan 17. Very popular place in Stockholm, particularly in winter time as the upper deck is considered outside, and smoking is allowed.

Student bars

The student unions at Kungliga Tekniska Högskolan (T Tekniska Högskolan) and Stockholm University (T Universitetet) hold pubs on weeknights at various campus locations. If you can read Swedish, you'll find a list at Fester.nu [201].

Mid-range

Södermalm & Gamla stan

Drinking in Gamla Stan itself is quite expensive - expect to pay around 60SEK for a 500ml lager in a cheap pub, rising to 95SEK for a microbrew beer in a nice pub. If you like to drink a lot it's worth heading further afield and avoiding the tourist bars.

• Oliver Twist, Repslagargatan 6 (T Slussen). Warm and cozy English-style pub offering good food, real ale, and other beers from around the world.

• Akkurat, Hornsgatan 2 (T Slussen). Friendly English-style pub offering good food, real ale, plenty of beers from all over the world as well as 450 different whiskies. A place where younger and older drinkers meet.

• Bishop's Arms. Warm and cozy English-style pubs offering good food, real ale and other beers from around the world. Live jazz music Wednesday evenings. Although this chain runs 25 pubs in Sweden, they all have a pleasant atmosphere, notable for the absence of loud music.
  • Bellmansgatan 10 (T Mariatorget)
  • Folkungagatan 105 (T Medborgarplatsen)

• Pelikan, Blekingegatan 40 (T Skanstull), +46 8 556 090 90 (Reservations +46 8 556 090 92). An old style working-class beer hall with a very authentic feeling, for those traditionalists who think Kvarnen has sold out in recent years. High noise level but quite a friendly crowd. Also offers simple and authentic Swedish food at a reasonable price.

• Kvarnen, Tjärhovsgatan 4 (T Medborgarplatsen), +46 8 643 03 80. A Stockholm beer hall with old traditions. Popular with fans of the Southside football club Hammarby IF. In recent years this place has expanded, adding more modern, trendy bars in adjoining rooms. Has a wide selection of beers and food at decent prices.

• Indigo, Götgatan 19 (T Slussen), +46 8 643 58 59. A really small bar with an eclectic color scheme, usually drawing a rather young crowd. Situated in the centre of Södermalm, this is a good place to start the evening.

• Södra Teatern Bar, Mosebacke Torg 1-3 (T Slussen). Open Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights, this very relaxed and stylish bar offers a marvellous view of Stockholm from its lounge. Be sure to come before 11PM to get seats offering the best view.

• Mosebacke Etablissement, Mosebacke Torg 3 (T Slussen), +46 8 556 098 90. In the same building as the Södra Teatern theatre and bar, this is a laid-back restaurant, bar and music venue. In the summer, its large beer garden with a panoramic view is extremely popular with Stockholmers and tourists alike. Indoors, you will find lots of clubs and live music in a wealth of genres, including brunches with live jazz on weekends 10:30AM-3PM.

• Och himlen därtill, Götgatan 78 (T Medborgarplatsen), +46 8 660 60 68, [202]. Open M-Th 6PM-1AM, F-Sa 6PM-3AM. Once upon a time, the landmark skyscraper on Götgatan housed the offices of the Swedish Tax Agency. After major renovations, the building reopened in 2008, transformed into the unlikely combination of a small shopping mall, student apartments and, on the 25th and 26th floors, an exclusive-looking sky bar and restaurant offering visitors one of the most spectacular panoramas over the city. Enter from inside the Skrapan shopping center.

• Sjögräs bar, Timmermansgatan 24 (T Mariatorget). Next door to a decent, if a bit expensive, restaurant by the name 'Sjögräs' (Seaweed), specialising in Caribbean fare, this small bar offers a wide selection of rum brands. The standard European beers are still the most popular choices for the young and rather trendy clientele, however.

• 6:e Tunnan, Stora Nygatan 43, Gamla stan (T Gamla stan). Bar open until 3AM. Medieval bar and restaurant, with medieval food and mead. Shows almost every night.

• Debaser, Karl Johans Torg 1 and Medborgarplatsen 8 (T Slussen and T Medborgarplatsen) [203]. Stockholm's premier rock club. The name of the place was taken from an old song by The Pixies, and many of the bands that play there know the Pixies discography by heart, but they also have other types of music there than alternative rock.

• O'Connell's - Irish Pub, Stora Nygatan 21 (T Gamla Stan), Open everyday 12PM-1AM. This comfortable and cozy Irish pub serves excellent pub food and has live music most nights of the week. Be sure to check out the 400-year old cellar bar.

Norrmalm & Östermalm

• Anchor, Sveavägen 90 (T Rådmansgatan) [204]. A hard rock club open till 3AM. Happy hour before 10PM. Live acts or karaoke most nights.

• Berns Bar, Berzelii Park 9 (T Östermalmstorg or T Kungsträdgården) [205]. Berns Bar is one of the trendier hangouts in the city centre, with a nice lounge.

• Bishop's Arms. There is one English-style pub in the Bishop's arms chain close to the Central station and one in Vasastan.
  • Vasagatan 7 (T T-Centralen)
  • S:t Eriksgatan 115 (T Odenplan)

• Jazzclub Fasching, Kungsgatan 63 (T T-Centralen) [206]. Stockholm's premier jazz club. Every Saturday, they are the hosts to the long-running club Soul [207] with old soul records that will put most people in a real partying mood (even if they didn't know that they liked old soul music).

• Inferno, Drottninggatan 85 (T Rådmansgatan) [208]. A recent addition to the Norrmalm bar scene, Inferno takes its name from a semi-autobiographical novel by one of Sweden's most famous authors, August Strindberg, who lived in the building from 1908 to his death in 1912. (Strindberg's apartment is now a small museum, open Tu-Su noon-4PM). The warm atmosphere, the ambitious drink list and the attentive service gave Inferno the Stockholm newspaper Dagens Nyheter's Gulddraken award for Best bar 2007.

• Musslan, Dalagatan 46 (T Odenplan), [209]. Open Tu-Th 6PM-1AM, F-Sa 6PM-2AM. The "back pocket" of seafood restaurant Wasahof next door, cozy and relaxed Musslan offers the same menu, a nice bar and DJs every night.

• Olssons Video, Odengatan 41 (T Odenplan) [210]. Clean and relaxed. Room for spontaneous dancing.

• Riche, Birger Jarlsgatan 4 (T Östermalmstorg) [211]. Branding itself a "cosmopolitan bar", Riche is one of the most popular places with the media crowd. Two large bars, often with DJs.

• Sturehof, Stureplan 2 (T Östermalmstorg) [212]. Located close to Riche, with the same owners and much the same well-to-do clientele, Sturehof's prominent location right on Stureplan draws a slightly more mixed and relaxed crowd than many of its neighbours in Stockholm's glitzy nightlife area. The restaurant has good quality food, albeit on the expensive side. The music bar O-baren is well-known for its DJ sets.

• Skybar, Radisson SAS Royal Viking Hotel, 9th floor, Vasagatan 1 (T T-Centralen). Open M-Sa 5PM-1:30AM. Not the most elevated sky bar in the world, in any sense of the word, but if you want a panoramic view to go with your drink this is the only option in the Norrmalm area (although Gondolen's Bar on Södermalm probably has better drinks).

• Storstad, Odengatan 41 (T Odenplan) [213]. A rather large bar with a modern, minimalist interior, Storstad is a popular meeting point in the Vasastan district.

• Tranan, Karlbergsvägen 14 (T Odenplan), [214]. A good brasserie-style restaurant opened in 1929, with a dark downstairs bar that is popular Vasastan hangout, with a mixed crowd. Occasional live music.

Kungsholmen

• Trädgården (The Garden), Fleminggatan 2-4 (T Rådhuset) [215]. A popular summer club, probably owing much to the fact that half of the club (including one dance floor) is situated outdoors, since Swedes love to spend as much of their brief summers as possible outdoors.

Splurge

If the price does not matter to you and you prefer well-made drinks instead of cheap beer, you should head towards Östermalm. A good starting point would be Stureplan. A large selection of nightclubs (discos) and bars are within walking distance from Stureplan.

• IceBar, Vasaplan 4 (in the Nordic Sea Hotel, T T-Centralen) [216]. The bar is made of ice. Entrance: 140SEK, including warm clothes and one drink. Additional drinks 85SEK. Note that you have to wait a long time before you can get in, because there are only 30 people allowed at a time.

• Brasserie Godot, Grev Turegatan 36 (T Östermalmstorg) [217]. If you fancy long drinks with a cool crowd this is the place for you. Ask for an Old-Fashioned, Godot Crush or a Bloody Mary.

• The Cadier Bar, S. Blasieholmshamnen 8 (in the Grand Hôtel, T Kungsträdgården) [218]. Located inside the Grand Hôtel, this is one of the more upscale places one can find in Stockholm. Recently refurbished it offers a modern yet classic atmosphere and really good drinks at that.

• Archipelago Hostel Old Town, Stora Nygatan 38, +46 8 22 99 40, [219] (info@archipelagohostel.se). Central location.

• STF Fridhemsplan, Sankt Eriksgatan 20, +46 8 653 88 00 [220] (info@fridhemsplan.se). One of the largest and most modern hostels in Stockholm.

• Skanstulls vandrarhem, Ringvägen 135 (T Skanstull), +46 8 643 02 04 (kontakt@skanstullsvandrarhem.se) [221]. You don't require a STF card at Skanstulls vandrarhem but the prices are still cheap and the standard is higher than the STF hostels. And compared to the STF hostels, this is more flexible. Skanstulls hostel opened in May 2007 and is a clean and central hostel. Very close to popular SoFo with many bars, restaurants and shopping. Book in advance since it is almost always fully booked.

• Långholmen, Långholmsmuren 20 (T Hornstull), +46 8 720 85 00 (vandrarhem@langholmen.com) [222]. Spectacular hostel built in an old prison where you actually stay in the old cells (making them limited to the size). The place is clean and the staff is nice and friendly. The prices are fair and the atmosphere is really one of a kind. It is also a hotel and the breakfast buffet holds top-standard and is worth its 75SEK cost. They have a guest kitchen, internet terminals, washing machine/dryer, and there are a lot of green areas and bathing opportunities around. Subway stop is about 7 minutes by walk.

• Zinkensdamm, Zinkens väg 20 (T Zinkensdamm), +46 8 616 81 00, [223]. Very nice and fairly big youth hostel and hotel. It is very clean, the staff is helpful and friendly and the prices are fair, however the rooms are rather small. Features a fairly big guest kitchen, a nice garden, Internet terminals, and laundry machine/dryer.

• Backpacker's Inn, Banérgatan 56 (T Karlaplan), +46 8 660 75 15 (info@backpackersinn.se), [224]. Actually a school, more or less converted into a youth hostel in summer. It is large (320 beds) and really centrally located, close to the subway (200m), and within walking distance to downtown. There is a shopping mall and several supermarkets nearby. The showers are in a separate building (since the only ones available are those at the gym hall), and the sleeping rooms (14 beds) are classrooms. Breakfast (decently priced) and internet (expensive, go to an internet cafe instead!) are available. If you need a cheap place to stay and want to meet a lot of people, this is for you. 135SEK in the dorm for STF members [225] and 180SEK for non-members. However, one should be careful about his luggage, as recently a student from India was a victim of laptop and mobile theft.
• STF Vandrarhem af Chapman, Flaggmansvägen 8 (Bus 65 from T T-Centralen, or a short walk from T Kungsträdgården), +46 8 463 22 66, [226] — A full-rigged ship, known as Af Chapman for short, and an adjacent building, just 15 minutes walk from the central station. Advance booking suggested. You can specify whether you want to stay in the ship or on land, and it really is a spectacular place to stay.

• City Backpackers, Upplandsgatan 2A (T T-Centralen or T Hötorget), +46 8 20 69 20, [227] — Located close to the train station. Clean and friendly, with free wireless internet and computers. Plenty of common areas to meet fellow travellers in, including a great cafe at reception. Prices range from 230SEK to 280SEK for a dorm bed.

• Best Hostel, Skeppsbron 22, +46 8 440 00 04 [228]. Located in the city centre on Gamla Stan, the hostel is nice enough but not the kind of place where people hang out and talk to each other. The bars and restaurants nearby are quite expensive, so you will probably want to quickly locate the supermarket in the basement of Galleria Slussen at Katarinavägen 1 about 700 metres away. If you can manage a longer walk there is a much nicer supermarket called Hemköp at Mäster Samuelsgatan 59, around 2km away.

• JumboHostel, Jumbovägen 4 near Arlanda Airport, +46 8593 604 00, [229] is a bit of a novelty and conveniently located near the airport. An old Boeing 747 Jumbo jet has been recently converted into a backpackers hostel. Everything inside is new and clean, and linen comes included on made beds. Flat screen TV's in each room are a luxury for hostels, and if you really want to splash out, there is the cockpit suite. On the downside, not much of an atmosphere once you get over the novelty of staying in a jet.

• Etienne Budget Hostel, near City Centre, +46 8294 402 24, is a nice and comfortably hostel. The owner of the hostel is a very good looking fellow, always keeping an eye out for his customers. Every room is fitted with a hot air blowdryer and a comb for the necessary hair adjustments. Strong liquor can be provided. Usually it is pretty clean although some long hairs can be found in the hallways. There might be a lot of Germans around since this is a popular place for them. Usually they play nice. Every room is also fitted with a television and double beds. Mirrors seem to be pretty important to the owner since they are everywhere. Standard room rates apply.

Mid-range

Hotels located far from city center are cheaper. If possible try to find one close to the subway or commuter trains.

• Rex Hotel, Luntmakargatan 73 (T Rådmansgatan), +46 8 16 00 40 [230]. North of the city center, the Rex Hotel has a trendy designer feel to it, rooms have vintage photographs and gilt mirrors against concrete walls and the bathrooms are tiled in slate. Free internet is available and staff are extremely helpful, even posting out letters and offering advice if needed.

• Rica Talk Hotel, Mässvägen 2, +46 8 588 820 00 (commuter train to Älvsjö) [231]. The Rica Talk Hotel is conveniently located next door to Stockholmsmässan, Stockholm's newest convention center, and a short stroll from the Älvsjö station. The hotel is spacious, clean and modern, with the bathrooms extremely pleasing; big bath, good temperature-control shower. All toiletries were in big wall-fixed dispensers, but nice ones, with good quality contents! The breakfast buffet is extensive and plentiful.

• Clarion Hotel Stockholm, Ringvägen 98 (T Skanstull) [232]. Ideal location, with lots of restaurants, a walkway along the water, and a laid-back vibe all just outside the hotel's door. Huge hotel with over 500 rooms, but the firendly staff ensure that guests feel welcomed, and there's personalised touches to be had, such as automatic checkout via email and free internet.

• Hotel Stureplan, Birger Jarlsgatan 24, +46 8 440 66 00 (T Östermalmstorg) [233]. Central, therefore relatively pricey at around 1000SEK per night. Comfortable, well designed rooms and the location is ideal for shopping and sight-seeing. There are "classic" rooms kitted out in 19th century style, and minimalist "loft" and "cabin" rooms.

• Grand Hotel, Södra Blasieholmshamnen 8 (T Kungsträdgården), +46 8 679 35 00 [234]. Considered to be one of the most luxurious hotels in Scandinavia and centrally located overlooking the Royal Palace. A bastion of elite hospitality, this is where the famous, infamous and traditional nobility stay, in fact room No 702 is the astounding Nobel Room, where the literature prize winners stay overnight. Its old world luxury and sense of style is well maintained in every room, with some in the Royal Gustavian style, others are intriguing traditional/modern mixes. The rooms are quite pricey but you get what you pay for in terms of service and comfort. The best rooms overlook the water, although these are highly sought after and invariably are booked out. The facilities include a fitness centre, several banquet halls, an upscale bar (the Cadier Bar), and a restaurant which gives an excellent Swedish Smörgåsbord, one of the very few establishments in Scandinavia that still does so. Even if you aren't staying here, its an experience to check out the piano bar, a delightful end-of-the-evening place to get a sophisticated drink.

• Nordic Light, Vasaplan 7 (T T-Centralen), +46 8 505 630 00 [235]. Stepping into the Nordic Light hotel, you're given a lesson in modern Scandinavian design. Displaying a minimalist yet well equipped decor, this hotel is as chic as it gets. Each room features individual, specially designed light exhibits, which guests can adjust to suit their mood, and several have excellent views over the city centre. Light is showcased throughout the hotel in an ever-changing variety of shapes, colours and intensities. The hotel is located in the city centre of Stockholm right next to the best shopping, nightlife and the express-train to Arlanda airport.

• Scandic Anglais Hotel, Humlegårdsgatan 23 (T Östermalmstorg), +46 8 517 340 00 [236]. Trendy boutique hotel encased in a glass extrerior. In an excellent location, combining the peace of the park, with the entertainment of the city centre. Rooms are small but functional, and the hotel contains one of the most hip bars in Stockholm, always popular and only steps away from your room. The breakfast buffet conveniently lasts until 2PM, perfect for those wanting to sleep in, and is generous and excellent, making it a great start to the day. Guests are able to rent bikes from reception, and considering its ideal location, its a great way to explore the city at your leisure.

• Hilton Slussen, Guldgränd 8 (T Slussen) [237]. International business hotel located on Södermalm with an excellent view of the Old Town and the City Hall. Sleek and modern hotel, with professional, English speaking staff. Breakfast is delightful, and well worth the cost with a tremendous amount of choice from fresh fruit, to cereals, fresh waffles, pancakes, pastries & cooked breakfast. Be sure to check out the interesting wood work displayed all around the hotel, various wood types are entwined with interesting room features.

• Hotel Rival, Mariatorget 3 (T Mariatorget) [238]. Owned by a former member of ABBA, Benny Andersson, who has restored a 1930's Art Deco red velvet cinema into a hip, elegant, and comfortable hotel. Personable staff abound, and patrons enjoy tasteful decor and bright, albeit small rooms with comfortable beds and good linens. Lobby and restaurant are trendy without being overbearing and the hotel faces a very charming city square with garden and fountain.

• Sheraton Stockholm Hotel, Tegelbacken 6 (T T-Centralen) [239]. The Sheraton Stockholm Hotel is a five-star hotel located in the very heart of Stockholm’s central business district, shopping areas, and attractions - perfect for both business and leisure guests. The hotel offers stunning views of Lake Mälaren, City Hall, and Old Town, as well as the largest average room size in town.

Contact

There are a number of places where you can access the Internet in central Stockholm.

WiFi

If you have your own laptop, many cafés offer free wi fi access.

• Skype offers wi fi access in some areas called Skype Zones [240]. This service used to be offered for free as a test, but now seems to be subject to a fee.

• Telia HomeRun [241] is a commercial wi fi service that covers many points in central Stockholm with wi fi.

• The company Sidewalk Express operates internet terminals in a number of convenience stores (most 7 Eleven and many Pressbyrån stores) and some other shops and public locations, including the main hall in the Stockholm Central railway station. Check their website [242] for a full list of locations.

• You can often use the internet for free at the public libraries (but you may have to ask first). Big libraries can be found at Medborgarplatsen (T Medborgarplatsen) and Sveavägen 73 (T Odenplan).

• The Central Station has Stockholmspanelen, information terminals with keyboards and web browsers that have full internet access but no address bar to type in the URL of the site you want to visit. But if you are clever there's a way to get to Google, you can then type in the URL you want to visit and hit "Search".

• There are also a number of more gaming-oriented internet points. These are often open late nights.
  • Matrix — The underground hall in the Kungsgatan exit of the metro station Hötorget. Open Su-Th 10AM-12PM, F-Sa 10AM-3AM. A centrally located 80-terminal gamer's den with generous opening hours.

Risks in Stockholm Crime/violence: Low - Moderate Drunk people at weekend nights, pickpockets, street gambling Authorities/corruption: Low Security guards and nightclub bouncers might be rude Transportation: Low Occasional delays in rail traffic Health: Low Infectious tick bites in the archipelago Nature: Low

Stockholm is generally a safe city, and there is no need to avoid certain areas or forms of transport. Like everywhere else, you should keep your wits about you. As in most cities, you might want to avoid late-night walks through the darkest and most desolate back streets and tunnels, as well as close encounters with rowdy groups of drunk people. The T-Centralen subway entrance to Sergels Torg is a well-known hangout for drug-dealers, but there is no need for the passer-by to feel threatened.

Most crimes against tourists are crimes of opportunity, such as pick-pocketing, bicycle theft, auto theft, and auto vandalism. As always, do not leave valuable items in your car or in a cloakroom, and watch your bag in crowded places. Most shops and all major taxi companies accept credit and debit cards, so there is no need to carry a lot of cash.

During summer, street gamblers try to swindle their audience on Drottninggatan and in other crowded areas. They use a variety of tricks one of them being planting a few of their own in the crowd. Don't play, you will lose.

Homeless people can occasionally be seen begging downtown, though in lesser extent than other parts of the world. A responsible way to deal with them is buying their magazine, Situation Stockholm, for 40 SEK. People handing out laminated begging cards in or on the subway usually belong to organized gangs, and should be ignored.

• When using escalators, people in Stockholm usually reserve the right side of the moving staircase for standing and the left side for people walking up the stairs. Standing still on the left side will certainly make people irritated and flag you as a tourist or a fool. It would also be wise to use common sense while exiting the subway, don't block their way. Take one step back and let people get off and you won't make people irritated.

Cope

Some things to pack:

See also Sweden#Bring.

• Comfortable shoes. Stockholm is best experienced on foot.
• An umbrella or a raincoat for unreliable weather.

Restrooms

Many department stores and fast-food restaurants have clean restrooms, often for the charge of 5SEK. That is also the cost of public toilet booths found in most city squares (though these might be messy) so be sure to carry some 5SEK coins. Restaurants' toilets are often reserved for customers and might be messy. Some good, clean toilets are found in Max (at Norrmalmstorg and Stockholm Central) and in the bar Sturehof (at Stureplan - the establishment is too big for crew to keep track of people borrowing the toilet). Urinating in town is illegal, but urinals are often free even if you have to pay for a WC.

Laundry

Since all Swedish apartments either have a washing machine or access to a communal laundry room, there are virtually no self-service laundries to be found in Stockholm, with one exception:

• Tvättomaten, Västmannagatan 61 (T Odenplan), + 46 8 34 64 80, [243]. Open M-F 8:30AM-6:30PM, Sa 9:30 AM-3PM (closed Sa from end of June to mid-August, closed one week at the end of July). Self service price: 50SEK without drying, 84SEK with drying (per machine, up to 5 kg).

Most youth hostels have washing machines. Some dry cleaners offer to wash shirts and bed linen as well, but this tends to be quite expensive.

Health

Swedish healthcare is generally of very high quality, although you may have to face a long wait in emergency rooms. EU/EES citizens with a European Health Insurance card pay the same (rather low) fee for emergency and necessary care as a local citizen. Others must pay the whole health care cost (which can be between 1,700 and 2,200SEK for a doctor’s visit at an emergency care unit at a hospital). More information on hospital fees can be found on the Stockholm County information site [244].

In an emergency, always call 112 for SOS Alarm, for ambulance, police, fire service, air and sea rescue, mountain patrol, or priest on call. English-speaking operators are available.

There are two hospitals with 24-hour emergency care units in the inner city:

• St Görans Sjukhus, S:t Göransplan 1 (T Fridhemsplan or T Stadshagen), +46 8 58 70 10 00, [245].
• Södersjukhuset, Sjukhusbacken 10 (Bus 3 or 4 from T Skanstull, bus 4 from T Zinkensdamm or commuter train to Stockholm Södra), +46 8 616 10 00, [246].

For less serious illnesses and ailments, getting in touch with a local clinic, vårdcentral, is a much better option than the hospital emergency rooms. The Stockholm County healthcare hotline Vårdguiden (+46 8 320 100, [247]) can give medical advice and help you find a doctor. While information is officially given in Swedish only, you may be able to get simple advice in English.

Pharmacies

The pharmacy market has recently been de-regulated, giving some competition to the state-operated monopoly chain Apoteket. Certified pharmacies have a green cross sign.

• Apoteket C W Scheele, Klarabergsgatan 64 (T T-Centralen), +46 8 454 81 30. This pharmacy is centrally located and open 24 hours, all days of the week, including holidays.
• Apoteket Enhörningen, Krukmakargatan 13 (T Mariatorget). Located on Södermalm, with extra long operating hours: 8:30AM-10PM all days of the week.

Tap water

The tap water in Stockholm is of very high quality. There is no reason for buying bottled water.

• Canada, Tegelbacken 4, 7th Floor PO Box 16129 S-103 23 Stockholm, ☎ +46 (0)8 453 30 00 (stkhm-cs@international.gc.ca, fax: +46 (0)8 453 30 16), [248]. Monday to Thursday: 08:30 - 12:25 and 13:00 - 17:00 Friday: 08:30-12:25 and 13:00-15:00.  edit

• China, Lidovägen 8，115 25 Stockholm, ☎ +46 (0)8 579 364 29 (info@cnedu.nu, fax: +46 (0)8 579 364 52), [249].  edit

• United States, Dag Hammarskjölds Väg 31 SE-115 89 Stockholm, Sweden, ☎ (+46) 8 783 5300 (fax: +46 (8) 660 58 79), [250].  edit

• United Kingdom, Skarpögatan 6-8 Box 27819 115 93 Stockholm, ☎ (46) (8) 671 3000 (fax: (46) (8) 662 9989), [251].  edit

• Turkey, Dag Hammarskjölds Vag 20 115 27 Stockholm - Sweden, ☎ (46) (8) 23 08 40-45 (fax: (46) (8) 663 55 14), [252].  edit

• Drottningholm— Although the Royal Palace is situated in the center of the city, the Royal family actually lives at Drottningholm Palace on the Lovö island in Lake Mälaren, about forty minutes from the city centre by public transport. The 18th century palace is beautiful, and much of it is open to the public. The surroundings are well worth a walk as well. Take the subway (T-bana) to Brommaplan, change to bus 301 or 323, or 177 or 178 to Drottningholm. In the summertime, there is also regular boat service from Stadshuskajen (the City Hall Quay) to Drottningholm operated by Strömma Kanalbolaget [253] (130SEK for a return ticket). Consider the combination return ferry ticket (210SEK, includes the palace and the Chinese Pavilion). But, if you are a student with an ISIC card, don't buy the combo ticket because you won't get the discounts offered by the Palace and Chinese Pavilion. Sadly, there are no interpretative signs in the Palace or in the Chinese Pavilion. So, catch a (free) guided tour, offered nearly every half hour in Swedish and English, and you'll get a lot more out of it. Or, buy a guide book (50SEK). If you use Talk of the town [254] the mobile audioguide for Stockholm. You can listen at six sights spread over Drottningholm Royal domain in six languages.

• Birka— For the real Viking buff, there's Birka [255], the site of a former Viking city of about 1,000 inhabitants situated on Björkö, an island in Lake Mälaren. Today, however, traces of the settlement are hard to spot and the small museum (+46 8 56051445, closed during winter) is really only worth the ride if you are genuinely interested in the subject. Boats to Björkö are operated by Strömma Kanalbolaget [256].

Birka can also be reached by driving to Ekerö (Ekerövägen/road 261), taking a car ferry to Adelsö, and finally taking a short ferry to Björkö. The car ferry to Adelsö is free and takes approximately 10 minutes. Immediately after driving of the Adelsö ferry, you should turn to the left. Drive until you see a church, Adelsö Church, and park in the parking lot located across the street from the church. Walk across the road (that you just arrived on) and follow the country road that is paralell to the church (i.e., walk towards the lake). After a five-minute walk, you will see a gate on the left. Open it and let yourself in to the field, but do not forget to close it behind yourself. The rocks and rune stone on the field are remains from a royal residence. Continue along the path until you reach a jetty. The Björkö ferry leaves Adelsö jetty at 11:30 (during the summer), and the crossing to Björkö takes approximately 15 minutes.

There is a pleasant cafe across the street from Adelsö Church.

• Uppsala— A lively pretty old university city. Fourth largest city in Sweden.

• Sigtuna [257]— Oldest medieval town in Sweden. Streets are small here and dotted with low built wooden houses. Lies north of Stockholm and makes an excellent daytrip.

• Bornsjön— For a real wild animal safari close to Stockholm, Bornsjön is the best spot. It is a nature reserve 30 minutes drive south of Stockholm. The natural environment is perfect here for watching mammals like moose, row deer and wild boar. Stockholm Outback offers tours down to the reserve every evening during the summer. For further information call +46 73-6578708 or visit their homepage [258].

Routes through Stockholm

Norrköping ← Nyköping ←	S  N	→ Märsta → Sundsvall
Oslo ← Västerås ←	W  E	→ Norrtälje → Turku ()
Göteborg ← Örebro ←	W  E	→ → Tallinn

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