From Wikitravel
Shinjuku (新宿) is a central ward of Tokyo, known as the metropolis'
second center (副都心, fukutoshin). The area
surrounding Shinjuku Station is a huge business,
commercial, and entertainment center located atop the world's
busiest railway station complex. To the north lies
Takadanobaba, where students from nearby
Waseda University cross paths. The residential
areas of Yotsuya and Ichigaya,
with their many small restaurants and drinking establishments, lie
to the east. Kagurazaka, one of Tokyo's last
remaining hanamachi (geisha districts), is also home to
some of the city's most authentic French and Italian restaurants.
Over 300,000 people--including nearly 30,000 foreign
residents--call Shinjuku their home, and the city offers a wide
variety of options for work or play.
Understand
The west side of Shinjuku, a seismically stable area that
escaped the last earthquake with nary a scratch, is Tokyo's
skyscraper district featuring (among others) the gargantuan
Tokyo Metropolitan Government Offices and the
curved form and webbed façade of the Mode Gakuen Cocoon
Tower.
The east side of Shinjuku is devoted to shopping and nightlife,
including Tokyo's largest red-light district
Kabukicho (歌舞伎町) and gay nightlife central
Shinjuku ni-chōme (新宿2丁目).
Nearby Ōkubo (大久保), one stop west of Shinjuku
on the Chuo line (also Shin-Ōkubo, on the Yamanote), has many
Korean-owned restaurants and grocery stores.
Takadanobaba (高田馬場), the next stop on the Yamanote
Line after Shin-Ōkubo, is popular with students from nearby Waseda
University.
Get in
By train
Train is the obvious option for arrival, as Shinjuku
Station is on the JR Yamanote, Chuo, Sobu, Saikyo, and
Shonan-Shinjuku lines. Subway service is provided by the Tokyo
Metro Marunouchi and Fukutoshin lines and the Toei Shinjuku and
Ōedo lines. There are also terminal stations for the Keio, Odakyu
and Seibu Shinjuku private railway lines. Most Narita Express
trains from Narita
Airport travel directly to Shinjuku (¥3,110, 85 min.), though
budget-minded travelers can save money by riding a combination of
the Keisei and Yamanote lines (¥1,190, 98 min. via limited express;
¥2,110, 83 min. via Skyliner; large baggage should not be brought
on board the Yamanote line during peak periods). Passengers coming
from Haneda Airport can take the
Keikyu and Yamanote lines, changing at Shinagawa (¥590, 50
min.).
By some measures Shinjuku Station is the busiest
railway station in the world; try to board the Marunouchi line
towards Tokyo Station at 8:00 on a Monday morning if you doubt
this. The station is a sight in itself, effectively forming a giant
multi-level warren of department stores, restaurants, commercial
buildings, railway facilities and underground shopping malls which
radiate out for kilometers under the surrounding area.
By bus
Keio, JR, and Odakyu operate highway buses from Shinjuku. There
are also a large variety of night buses that arrive from all over
Honshu. JR buses are centered
around the New South Exit (新南口 shin-minami-guchi). Odakyu
buses arrive and depart in front of Odakyu Halc, and Keio buses
arrive and depart in front of Yodobashi Camera's main branch.
Various other highway and tour buses stop near the Subaru
building.
Airport limousine buses from Narita (¥3,100, roughly 100 min.)
and Haneda (¥1,200, 50 min) stop at the station and at all major
hotels in Shinjuku, but are prone to traffic delays.
Tokyo Metropolitan Government Center
- Tokyo Metropolitan Government Center (都庁 tochō),
2-8-1
Nishi-Shinjuku (Metro
Tochōmae E-28), [1].
The two enormous buildings of this giant
hive of bureaucracy are an Orwellian architectural masterpiece
designed by noted architect Kenzo Tange. The main reasons to come
here, though, are the twin observatories. At a
height of 202 m on the 45th floor, they have some of the best views
of Tokyo. The North Observatory is open daily from 9:30 AM to 11:00
PM (closed second and fourth Mondays of each month), while the
South Observatory is open daily from 9:30 AM to 5:30 PM (until 11PM
on the days the North Observatory is closed; closed on the first
and third Tuesdays of each month). Last entry is 30 minutes before
closing. Free. edit
- NTT DoCoMo Building (sometimes called DoCoMo Tower). This gigantic tower resembling a granite Empire
State Building, south of the station, is owned by NTT DoCoMo,
Japan's largest cell-phone carrier. The upper part of the building
is a mobile communications tower. edit
- Shinjuku Gyoen (新宿御苑), (a ten-minute walk east from JR Shinjuku
station), [2].
A large public garden, and one of the
most popular places for viewing cherry blossoms in the spring. It
has an English garden, a Taiwanese teahouse, and a botanical
conservatory. ¥200, children under 15
¥50, children under 6 free. edit
- For people watching, the place to be is the large square in
front of the station's Kabukicho entrance, next to the
Studio Alta shopping center.
- Hanazono Shrine (花園神社), located near the intersection of Meiji-dori
and Yasukuni-dori. More
remarkable for its location than its appearance, but it's a nice
place to take a breather. There's often a flea market in the
surrounding park on weekends. edit
- Southern Terrace, across from the South Exit of Shinjuku
Station (the Southern
Terrace exit from JR Shinjuku station is closest). The promenade next to the Southern Terrace exit
offers a magnificent view of the Takashimaya department store and a
bridge that offers the best views for watching the trains enter and
exit. edit
- Shinjuku-sanchome and related red-light
districts to the east of the station. It is perfectly harmless to
walk around these during the day and marvel at the photo billboards
of various male and female escorts on offer as well as the live
gangster-types acting shady. While walking around this area should
probably not be done with children, for adults the result is far
more "cultural interest" than sleaze.
- Tokyo Opera City, (take the Keio New Line subway to Hatsudai
station). A skyscraper with a
shopping center and art museum that often has interesting
multimedia exhibits. edit
- Karaokekan, Various locations (one minute walk from Seibushinjuku Line,
Seibushinjuku station. Or a 5 minute walk from JR Shinjuku
Station), ☎ +81
03-5285-7007 (fax: 03-5285-7008), [3]. Karaokekan is a large chain of karaoke shops.
They have rooms available from one person up to a large party. All
you can drink set menus are available. edit
- Boy and Girl Mylord, Nishi-Shinjuku 1-1-3 Mylord 4F
(west exit of JR Shinjuku
Station), ☎ +81
03-3349-5720. Boy and Girl
is a hair salon where you can also get spa treatments.
edit
- Shinjuku Piccadilly, Shinjuku 3-15-5 (north of exits B7 and B8 of the Tokyo Metro
Underground walkway), [5]. Shinjuku Piccadilly is the newest movie theater
in Shinjuku. The theater features stadium seating and "platinum"
seating. Platinum seating ranges from a semi-private room,
including a private lounge (¥5000 per person) to a private room,
including a relaxation room (¥30,000 for 2 people). ¥1800. edit
- Wald
9, Shinjuku
3-1-26 (in Marui's
largest building next to Shinjuku Gyoen), ☎ +81 03-5369-4955, [6]. Part of the new generation of movie theaters in
Tokyo. It features stadium seating, a small gift shop, and clean
theaters. ¥1800. edit
- Cinem@rt, Shinjuku 3-13-3, Shinjuku Building
6,7F (one minute walk
from Shinjuku 3 chome station of Tokyo Metro Marunochi line,
Fukutoshin line, and the Toei Shinjuku line), ☎ +81 03-5369-2831. 335 seats total. Mondays are Men's Days, when
men can watch movies for ¥1000. Wednesdays are Ladies' Days, when
ladies can watch movies for only ¥1000. edit
- Kadokawa Cinema Shinjuku, Shinjuku 3-13-3, Shinjuku
Culture Bldg. 4・5F, ☎ +81
03-5361-7878, [7]. Old cultural history theater. edit
- Isetan, Shinjuku 3-14-1 (Exit B3, B4, & B5 from Shinjuku
Sanchome Station), ☎ +81
03-3352-1111, [8].
Isetan is one of the most popular
department stores in Shinjuku. It caters to a broad 20+ age group.
It has a beautiful depachika (basement floor selling food and
gifts) that is a little more expensive than other department stores
in Shinjuku. edit
- Keio,
Nishi-shinjuku
1-1-4 (West Exit and
Central West Exit from the JR Shinjuku Station), ☎ +81 03-3342-2111, [9]. Keio is similar to the Odakyu department store
in terms of goods and services. The depachika is smaller and more
cramped than Odakyu. edit
- Lumine, Nishi-shinjuku 1-1-5 (JR Shinjuku Station), ☎ +81 03-3348-5211, [10]. Lumine has 3 buildings around the JR Shinjuku
Station. Lumine 1 and 2 cater to all ages with average priced
goods. Both buildings are located at the South Exit. Lumine Est is
located at the East Exit and Central East Exit. Lumine Est focuses
more on haute fashion for younger women and famous
restaurants. edit
- Marui, Shinjuku 3-1-26 (Various locations located near Shinjuku
Sanchome Station), ☎ +81
03-3354-0101, [11]. Marui is well known department store known for
focusing on the 16-32 year age group. Spread out around Shinjuku
Sanchome, the main building is located next to Shinjuku Gyoen. The
men's building is located North of the main building and Marui
Young is located West of Isetan. edit
- Mitsukoshi ALCOTT, Shinjuku 3-29-1 (West of Shinjuku Sanchome Station),
☎ +81 03-3354-1111, [12]. Mitsukoshi ALCOTT is an upscale department
store that caters more towards the upper class shoppers. However,
they still have a variety of reasonably priced shops and a large
book store occupying the top 3 floors. edit
- Odakyu, Nishi-shinuku 1-1-3 (West Exit of the JR Shinjuku
Station), ☎ +81
03-3342-1111, [13].
Odakyu is the largest department store on
the West side of Shinjuku Station. It caters to the 30+ age group
and has various buildings. Mylord is located behind the Keio
Department Store and caters to a younger age group. Halc is located
South of the West Bus Loop and focuses on sports clothing and
electronics (Bic Camera's largest Shinjuku location is within
Halc). edit
- Takashimaya, Sendagaya 5-24-2 (New South Exit and the Southern Terrace
Exit from the JR Shinjuku Station), ☎ +81
03-5361-1111, [14].
Takashimaya is the Southern most
department store in Shinjuku located between the JR Shinjuku and JR
Yoyogi stations. This department store caters towards the mid-20s
and up, along with families. The depachika is comparable to Isetan,
but not as famous. Look for Tokyu Hands and Books Kinokuniya at the
Southern end of the department store. edit
- Bookoff, Various Locations (Go south from the JR Shinjuku Southern
Terrace Exit, head down the stairs at the end of the Southern
Terrace, and cross the Odakyu train tracks. Alternatively, head out
of the North Exit of the JR Yoyogi Station and turn right).
10AM-11PM. Bookoff is a well known second hand book store.
They also offer various albums, games, and movies. The closest
branch to Shinjuku Station is South of Southern Terrace.
Alternatively, (Nishi-shinjuku 7-7-29) you can head North from the
West Exit, or (Shinjuku 5-2-1) North of Shinjuku Gyoenmae Station
on the Marunouchi Line. edit
- Books Kinokuniya, (the Main Branch is located between Shinjuku
Sanchome and Shinjuku Stations. The South Branch is located South
of Takeshimaya close to Yoyogi Station), [15]. Books Kinokuniya is the best book store for
foreign language books. The Main Branch is the older of the 2,
however, the Southern Branch is bigger and has a greater selection
of foreign language books. edit
- Junkudo, Shinjuku 3-29-1 (Floors 6-8 of Mitsukoshi ALCOTT),
☎ +81 03-5363-1300, [16]. Junkudo is a major book store that carries a
lot of Japanese language books. Their specialty is carrying hard to
find books. edit
Electronics
Major discount camera stores are concentrated
on both sides of Shinjuku station, although there is a particularly
large cluster just outside the West Exit. The undisputed king
Yodobashi has branches on practically every block;
note that the branches specialize, so you may have to look for the
right branch to find what interests you (digital cameras, video
cameras, medium-format photography, etc.). The other major names
are Sakuraya and Bic. These
stores have been transformed by computers and the Internet, and
their computer departments match Akihabara in
volume, price, and selection.
- Bic
Camera, Nishi-shinjuku 1-5-1 (inside Odakyu Halc just outside the JR
Shinjuku West Exit), ☎ +81
03-5326-1111, [17].
10AM-9PM. Second-largest electronics shop in Shinjuku.
While not as big as Yodobashi Camera, prices and product range is
roughly the same. The East side shop, located near Mitsukoshi
ALCOTT, next to Books Kinokuniya, is bigger than Yodobashi's East
side shop, but still smaller than the West side location.
edit
- Sakuraya, Shinjuku 3-26-10 (across from Lumine EST from the JR Shinjuku
East Exit), ☎ +81
03-3352-4711, [18]. 10AM-10PM. Sakuraya
is mainly located on the East side of Shinjuku station. Their West
side location, next to Odakyu department store, is relatively
small. They also have a regular branch located within Shinjuku
Sanchome, along with a watch shop on Shinjuku-dori and a large
Hobby shop behind Shinjuku Piccadilly. edit
- Yodobashi Camera, Nishi-shinjuku 1-11-1 (2 minutes West of the JR Shinjuku West
Exit. Look South-West at the bus stop.), ☎ +81 03-3346-1010, [19].
9:30AM-10PM. Yodobashi is the largest electronics retailer
in Shinjuku. The main building is their multimedia centre. They
also have a dedicated Games building, Camera building, and Watch
building among others. Yodobashi also has a branch on the East side
of Shinjuku, across from Lumine EST. edit
- Don
Quijote, 1-16-5 Kabuki-cho (on Yasukuni-Dori), [20]. A
hectic 24-hour discount store that sells just about everything that
you would never imagine needing at three in the morning but might
just pick up anyway, such as clothing, bicycles, electronics,
jewelry, and gag gifts. edit
- Tokyu
Hands, Sendagaya 5-24-2 (within Takashimaya near the JR Shinjuku New
South Exit), ☎ +81
03-5361-3111, [21]. This is a large variety goods shop, and if
"large" doesn't impress you, you have probably never faced the
dilemma which kind of sand to use for your model railway. Because
here, you can choose from a dozen kinds of sand alone - from yellow
Sahara sand to reddish Nullarbor sand, everything in handy plastic
packets. This shop is the best proof that in a rich mega city,
there is a clientele for anything. You can buy almost anything you
want. edit
- Disk
Union, Shinjuku 3-31-4 (Main Branch is located near Shinjuku
Sanchome Station), ☎ +81
03-3352-2697, [22]. You can get music, movies, and music books.
They have a large selection of used goods with over 10 locations.
Aside from the main branch, other branches specialize in specific
genres or goods. This shop is great for music enthusiasts.
edit
- HMV,
Shibuya-ku,
Sendagaya 5-24-2 (Takashimaya Times Square 12F), ☎ +81 03-5361-3060, [23]. HMV is one of the bigger record stores in Japan
with a good selection of music and movies. HMV has 2 locations in
Shinjuku: one in Takashimaya Times Square and another on the 6th
floor of Lumine Est. edit
- Tower Records, Shinjuku 3-37-1 (Southeast Exit of the JR Shinjuku
Station), ☎ +81
03-5360-7811, [24].
Tower Records is one of the biggest
record stores in Japan. They have any CD or DVD you can imagine,
and if not, you can probably order or reserve it. edit
- Tsutaya, Shinjuku 3-26-14 (East of the JR Shinjuku East Exit. Across
from Books Kinokuniya on Shinjuku-dori), ☎ 03-5269-6969 (fax: +81 03-5269-6990), [25]. 10AM-2AM. Tsutaya is
a major video/music rental store but the Shinjuku shop sells a
large variety of music, games, and videos. They also have a decent
variety of used products at reduced prices. edit
- Nishi-Shinjuku 7-chome, (northwest of JR Shinjuku station).
Packed with music shops specializing in
various genres such as punk and heavy metal. Many sell nothing but
bootlegs and collectibles. edit
- Between the underground entrance to the Keio department store
and the taxi rotary is an area hosting a rotating series of stalls
or exhibits. Some recent stalls/exhibits have included various
local foods from around Japan, furniture, and information about
various government projects around Tokyo.
Eat
A great way to get by in Tokyo on a budget is to make lunch your
main meal. Many restaurants cater to the business lunch crowd and
offer an excellent two or three course meal for between ¥800-1300.
Going to the same places for dinner would be up to three times more
expensive.
- The Lumine and Mylord
department stores atop the south side of the JR station both have
inexpensive restaurant arcades on their upper floors.
- Keuwjai, Lumine 1, B2F. A good place for Thai street-stall style food.
It's always packed and hectic for lunch, with attendants hollering
to attract customers. edit
- Café
Haïti, Nishi-Shinjuku 1-19-2 B1F,
☎ +81 3-3346-2389. Strong coffee and spicy curry. edit
- Christon Cafe, Oriental Wave Bldg 8F, 5-17-13
Shinjuku, ☎ +81
3-5287-2426, [26].
A great atmosphere for those looking to
lounge around on a leather couch surrounded by cathedral lighting,
gargoyles, and an array of Christian decor. First class service
with price that is hard to believe considering how great the food
is, with most mains well under ¥1000. "Amuse" charge of ¥300 per
person on top. Very very nice place for somebody on a tight budget
that would like to indulge in a top class establishment.
edit
- Doner Kebab Stand, (take the New South exit and walk straight
ahead; the stand is on the left side, near the IDC Otsuka furniture
store). 11AM-11:30PM. ¥500. edit
- Takoyaki Stand, (take the East exits from the station and
walk straight ahead). Nearby the
McDonald's and Wendy's you'll see a small cart selling this strange
but delicious snack: small pieces of octopus mixed into a sort of
pancake batter and fried in small spheres. Watch as the elderly
vendor liberally applies sauces, scallions and fish flakes. You get
six for only ¥500 and it's a terrific snack after a night of sake
and beer. Unfortunately there's no seats but no one will fault you
for standing there and chowing down. edit
- Saam-Rot THAI&VIETNAM Cafe Restaurant,
Kabukicho 1-2-19,
2F, ☎ +81
03-3205-0148, [27]. Original Thai & Vietnamese food.
edit
- Blumare, Shinjuku 3-28-9, Shinjuku Lion Kaikan
3F, ☎ +81
03-3352-6606. All-you-can-eat pizza and pasta chain
restaurant. Lunch ¥1300. edit
- Sansyoku-Sansun-Bashi (三尺三寸箸),
Nishi-shinjuku
1-1-5, Lumine One 7F, ☎ +81
03-5909-5123. All-you-can-eat food. Lunch ¥1800. edit
- Okonomiyaki Wahaha Fugetsu (お好み焼き わっはっはっ風月), [28]. The Japanese favorite okonomiyaki, done
Osaka-style. edit
- Botejyu, Tokyo, Shinjuku-ku, Kabukicho 1, Subnade
B1, ☎ +81
03-3348-5322, [29]. 11AM-10:30PM (Last order 10PM). Botejyu is an okonomiyaki shop that sells a
variety of okonomiyaki. They also have various yaki-soba dishes.
Beware that at times, this restaurant can be busy with wait times
of up to 30 min. edit
- Juttoku (十徳), New Sentora Bldg B1F, 1-5-12
Nishi-Shinjuku, ☎ +81
3-3342-0339, [30]. M-Sa
4PM-12AM, Su 4PM-4AM. This izakaya
has an excellent selection of sake. edit
- The
Lockup, Kabuki-cho 1-16-3, Shinjuku Square Bldg
6-7F, ☎ +81
3-5272-7055. 5PM-5AM.
A Shinjuku original that has since
spawned several branches elsewhere in Tokyo. It has a hybrid
prison/dungeon/horror movie theme: customers are led to tables
inside stone cells by waitresses in plastic-miniskirt police
uniforms, where they are "locked up" and given menus filled with
bizarre drinks (the most well-known of which consists of a rack of
test tubes filled with flavored syrups, a flask full of alcohol,
and a beaker to mix everything in) and relatively normal food.
Twice every night, a "jailbreak" is staged in which the lights go
out and costumed hoodlums scare the living daylights out of random
patrons. edit
- Kappō Nakajima (割烹 中島), Shinjuku 3-32-5 basement.
Closed Sundays. Specializes in sardine dishes. Yanagawa
teishoku is deep-fried sardines with scrambled eggs on rice
(it tastes better than it sounds). edit
- Shunka Shuto (春花秋灯), 53rd floor of Tokyo Opera City (see
above), ☎ +81
3-5353-7111. Enjoy the view
while dining on seafood and other specialties of Hokkaido. edit
- Yanbaru (やんばる), Shinjuku 3-23-6 (north of Kabukicho exit), ☎ +81 3-3353-2028. There's nothing pretentious about this
restaurant specializing in Okinawan food, which emphasizes pork and
vegetables that are unusual even to Honshu Japanese. Recommend is
beni imo (¥450), tempura-style sweet potato; and
hechima misoni (¥600), an eggplant-like vegetable served
in a strongly fermented miso sauce. A picture menu is
available. edit
- There's a cluster of interesting ethnic restaurants on the
south side of Koshu-Kaido-dori, to the west of the station.
- Rose de Sahara, ☎ +81
3-3379-6427. Offers fried
alligator and other African foods. edit
- España, ☎ +81
3-3379-1159. In the same
building, has good paella. edit
- Court
Lodge, ☎ +81
3-3376-7733. A few
buildings away on the ground floor; serves spicy dishes of Sri
Lanka. edit
- Bosphorus Hasan, Shinjuku 3-chome, ☎ +81 3-3354-7947. Authentic Turkish food. edit
- Din
Tai Fung, Sendagaya 5-24-2, Takashimaya
10F, ☎ +81
03-5361-1381. 10AM-7:30PM, closed
Wednesdays. Tokyo branch of the
renowned Taiwan dim sum restaurant; speciality is the
dumplings. edit
- Brusca, 107 Yarai-cho, Hosoya Bldg 2F
(Tozai line, Kagurazaka station, exit
1), ☎ +81
03-6457-5788, [31]. 11:30AM-2:30PM, 6PM-midnight. Excellent Italian bruschetta, bread topped with
a variety of meat, cheese, vegetables and herbs. Wide selection of
bottled beers, and 6 beers on tap. Second restaurant opened by the
enthusiastic Stefano. ¥800-1000 for one
bruschetta. edit
- Torafugu-Tei (とらふぐ亭), Kabukicho 2-11-7 Metro Bldg.
B1F. Specializing in the
infamous fugu (blowfish), it's one of the huge number of
seafood restaurants in Kabukicho (see below). Set dinners go for
around ¥5000, featuring fugu prepared five or six ways, fresh from
the tank. edit
Festival procession in the neon-drenched alleys of Kabukichō
The Kabukichō (歌舞伎町) district, to the northeast
of JR Shinjuku station, is Tokyo's most notorious red-light
district - although during the daytime you might not even notice,
especially if you can't decode the elaborate Japanese codewords on
the billboards. At night it's a different story though, as
sharkskin-suited junior yakuza gangsters hustle and girls
in miniskirts beckon customers amid the adults-only vending
machines. Night or day, it's always packed with people, and until
recently quite a bit of gangland violence went on in the vicinity
(though at any rate outsiders are generally not involved).
To the south of Kabuki-cho is Shinjuku ni-chome
(新宿2丁目), Tokyo's largest gay district.
Golden Gai (ゴールデン街) is the name given to a few
narrow alleys in a block on the east edge of Kabukicho. It's packed
with tiny aging "hole-in-the-wall" bars and started as a red light
district some decades ago; morphing into some sort of a subversive
hangout; and finally now into an odd assortment of tiny bars (some
up very steep steps.) The irony of the place is that while it has
become somewhat of a tourist attraction, many of the bars rely on
regulars, so strangers wandering in may receive either a frosty
reception, cover charge or both. If the door is open and you get a
smile go in, it's an experience not to be had anywhere else. Many
of the bars have karaoke and ancient mama-sans, while one has an
old man who speaks Spanish and plays flamenco videos on a tiny
black and white TV, and who occasionally plays guitar; another has
a great collection of jazz music. Some places charge extra for
karaoke with coin machines or a surcharge added to the bill while
others, such as Bar K, have it available for free.
Be aware that commercial photography in some parts of the Golden
Gai is prohibited without permission.
- Araku, Golden Gai St #2 2FL, ☎ +81 03-5272-1651, [32]. Australian-run, considerably larger and can be
less intimidating than many other Golden Gai establishments.
edit
- Bar
K. Always welcoming of foreigners
with beers. ¥1000 mini long neck.
edit
- Rock Bar: Mother. Has an extensive collection of Punk and Metal
CDs for those looking for some alternative rock. edit
- Champions (Coin
Bar), just
before the Golden Gai entrance and slightly west as you head back
towards Kabuki-cho. Sells
all drinks for 500 yen and is staffed mostly by Filipinas who speak
excellent English. edit
On the west side of the Yamanote tracks, Omoide
Yokochō (思い出横丁, "Memory Lane") is a small alley filled
with yakitori joints. Omoide Yokochō is also sometimes
referred to as gokiburi yokochō (cockroach alley) or
shomben yokochō (piss alley - no prizes for guessing
why).
Once you get beyond Omoide Yokochō into the skyscrapers of West
Shinjuku, the nightlife pretty much dies out, with the solitary
exception of what is probably Tokyo's best-known bar among
foreigners:
- New York Bar & Grill, Nishi-Shinjuku
3-7-1 (Park Hyatt
Tokyo), ☎ +81
03-5323-3458,
[33]. Daily 5PM-midnight. One of the main sets for Lost in
Translation, this slick joint on the 52th floor has dark decor
and floor-to-ceiling windows with jaw-dropping vistas, with live
jazz nightly. Eating a steak here would cost you well north of
¥10,000 per head, but you can nurse a beer for a mere ¥1000 or,
"for relaxing times", try out Bill Murray's 17-year-old Suntory
Hibiki for ¥2,300. Cover charge ¥2000
after 8PM (Sun 7PM). edit
Clubs
Oddly, there are few nightclubs left in Shinjuku, perhaps due to
the price of real estate. Liquid Room, once one of
the Tokyo's best-known party places, decamped to Ebisu several years
ago.
- Casablanca, J2 Bldg, 1-7-1 Kabukicho,
[34]. A two level nightclub and
lounge with a large dance floor and darts. edit
- Loft/Plus One (ロフトプラスワン), Hiyashi Bldg B2F, Kabukicho
1-14-7 (Off Chuo-dori
opp. Koma Theatre), [35]. Shows at 2PM, 7:30PM, and midnight. Performance art space meets bar run with a
simple concept: different people and groups rent a block of time
and do whatever they want to. The end result runs from stand-up
comedy and lectures to porn star photo shoots and incredibly
violent live S&M. Erotic shows 18+ only (ID required).
Tickets ¥1000-6000 (discounts for advance
purchase). edit
- Oto,
[36]. Upscale club of mostly locals that have live
jazz bands and DJ's. Music ranges from jazz, electro, to Euro
rock. edit
- Tokyo
Loose, 2-37-3
Kabuki-cho, Marutomo Bldg B1, ☎ +81
03-3207-5677, [37]. Small friendly international darts bar. It's
not easy to find, so call for directions. edit
- Bun The world of coffee, Shijuku-ku Shinjuku
3-15-17, Isetan Bl.1F, ☎ +81
03-3354-7226. Specialty
coffee store feeling, with coffee styles from 15 countries.
edit
- Doutor, Various locations, [38]. Doutor is a relatively "salary man" coffee
shop. You will see lots of business men within this shop. Expect
most shops to be all smoking, or only 2-3 seats for a non-smoking
section. ¥200-450 for drinks.
edit
- Excelsior Caffe, Various locations, [39]. Excelsior Caffe and Doutor are the same
company, however Excelsior Caffe caters to a younger crowd, more
feminine crowd. Most shops tend to have a better non-smoking
section, however smoking still occupies the majority of the cafe's
seating area. Thankfully, bigger shops have smoking and non-smoking
on different floors. ¥280-460 for
drinks. edit
- Pronto, Various locations, see website and click on
店舗リスト, [40]. opens around 7AM, closes around 5:30PM. The bar is
usually opened within minutes. Pronto is a very relaxed cafe/bar that is a
cafe during the day. They offer premium style drinks. ¥200-400 for drinks. edit
- Segafredo ZANETTI, 3 locations near Shinjuku
Station, [41].
Segafredo is a somewhat upscale style
cafe that has various locations near Shinjuku. Segafredo tends to
have a darker atmosphere akin to Pronto. ¥280-500 for drinks. edit
- Starbucks Coffee, Shinjuku has 22 Starbucks Coffee
shops, [42]. edit
- Shinjuku Dianne Bldg 3-36-6
(one minute from Shinjuku station by
walk, 8 minutes from Seibu-shinjuku station by walk; between
OIOIcity and Flags), ☎ +81
03-3353-4775.
- Shinjuku Green Tower, Nishi-shinjuku
6-14-1 (4 minutes from
Nishi-shinjuku station by walk, 6 minutes from Tochomae station by
walk, 10 minutes from Shinjuku station by walk; near the Hilton
Hotel), ☎ +81
03-3342-7737.
- Canal
Cafe, 1-9
Kagurazaka (Iidabashi
station, JR west exit or subway exit B2A), ☎ +81 3-3260-8068 (fax: +81 3-3260-8052), [43]. 11:30AM-9:30PM, until 11PM on weekend. Closed Mondays
or the day following a holiday. Located in the far east of Shinjuku City in the
Kagurazaka district. With views remarkable for Tokyo, Canal Cafe
consists of a separate restaurant and cafe situated alongside a
canal. The open-air cafe has great ambiance. At the restaurant
figure ¥6000-9000 for dinner, but at the café, which is a long
patio-like dock, drinks and snacks are purchased at the bar and can
be quite reasonable. edit
- The
Dubliners, Shinjuku 3-28-9 (two minutes from JR east exit),
☎ +81 03-3352-6606. Down a pint of Guinness and mingle with the
local expats. edit
- The
Hub, [44]. Popular chain of English pubs. Have some fish
and chips with your pint at one of four Shinjuku locations.
edit
- 1-6-1 Kabukicho, Shirou Building
B1, ☎ +81
03-5155-2622.
- 1-22-8 Kabukicho, Kojimaya Building
B1, ☎ +81
03-3208-1462.
- 1-3-17 Nishi-Shinjuku, Aoi Building
B1, ☎ +81
03-3345-5310.
- 3-36-15 Shinjuku, Uchino building B1 &
6F, ☎ +81
03-5379-1949.
- Marone, (Unfortunately the address (in English) is
incredibly difficult to find, but luckily it's only a few doors
down from the famous restaurant Tsunahachi (east of the station).
Look for their chalkboard outside a non-descript building and then
go up to 2F). Tucked away in this
tiny cubbyhole of a space is one of the most interesting small bars
in Tokyo. A country western theme with Chet Baker and Nat King Cole
pouring from the stereo. The food is cheap and superbly done (think
chili nachos and the like); beer and spirits are also available.
The place is tiny but it attracts a great mix of young groups of
friends and office workers. Be forewarned though: some nights
Marone puts on live music and cover charges are upwards of ¥4000!
The older couple who run the bar are terrifically friendly but
their English is minimal. edit
- Vagabond, 1-4-20 Nishi Shinjuku (In west Shinjuku, in the 2nd alley behind
(north of) Odakyu Halc, Shinjuku), ☎ +81
03-3348-9109. A great
little pub with two floors. The first floor is a little more
private while the top floor is a very cozy jazz bar with live music
and a good selection of finger foods cooked right at the bar for
you. Caution to taller travelers: it's a little cramped at the
bar. edit
- Sakura Hotel Hatagaya, 32-3 Hatagaya
Shibuya-ku, ☎ +81
3-3469-5211 (fax: +81
3-3468-4307), [45]. Just 2 stations (3 min.) to Shinjuku.
Affordable hotel accommodation in central Tokyo. Staff can speak
English. Single rooms ¥6930, double
rooms ¥9000, twin & triple room with breakfast..
edit
- Tama
Ryokan, 1-25-33 Takadanobaba, ☎ +81 3-3209-8062 (fax: +81 3-3209-8068), [46]. There is a lounge for relaxing and internet
access. Three-minute walk from Takadanobaba Station. Prices for one person no higher than ¥4,500, and the
prices drop if more than 1 person stays per room. edit
- Ten Ten Guesthouse, Takadanobaba, ☎ +81 070-5652-8628, [47]. The cheapest youth hostel in Tokyo. Don't
expect too much for the price. The manager manages 6 of these
guesthouses, all the same price, same style. Price for a dorm bed starts with ¥1,200 (per day for
1 month stay), ¥1,400 (per day/1 week stay), up to ¥1,600 (2-6
nights). edit
- Tokyo International Hostel, 1-1
Kagurakashi, ☎ +81
3-3235-1107 (fax: +81
3-3267-4000), [48]. Located on the 18th and 19th floors of a
high-rise in Shinjuku, with great views over the city (including a
hot tub and baths overlooking the lights and skyscrapers of
Shinjuku) and comfortable rooms. edit
- Manboo Internet & Comic Cafe. Internet cafe that has small, private rooms to
crash out in. Rooms have a comfortable reclining chair, internet,
TV, and headphones. There's also a shower room/toilet and
toiletries on sale. Good as a last resort. ¥1,800. edit
- Hotel Sunlite Shinjuku, ☎ +81 03-3356-0391 (fax: +81 03-3356-1223), [49]. Singles start at ¥8,715; doubles at ¥12,075 per
night. Discounts are offered if you refer to their web page.
edit
- Hotel Sunroute Plaza Shinjuku, 2-3-1
Yoyogi, ☎ +81
3-3375-3211, [50]. Includes a restaurant, a bar, and massage
parlor. Located just 2 minutes walking from Shinju-ku station south
exit. Recommended for taller guests. Prices range ¥14000 and up. edit
- New City Shinjuku, 4-31-1 Nishi-shinjuku, ☎ 66 3 836 4700. Located in a tranquil spot across Shinjuku
Central Park from the Tokyo Metropolitan Government building, this
hotel has clean rooms with nice views of the skyscraper district,
two decent onsite restaurants for the truly lazy, and a free
shuttle bus to and from Shinjuku station. Singles start at ¥9500. edit
- Shinjuku Prince Hotel, Kabushigi-cho
1-30-1, ☎ +81
03-3205-1111, [51].
Includes restaurants, a bakery, and
salon. edit
- Tokyu Stay Yotsuya, 2-1 Yotsuya, ☎ +81 03-3354-0109 (fax: +81 03-3354-0191), [52].
Part of the Tokyu Stay chain, these
hotels are popular with business travelers. The small kitchenettes,
washer/dryers, and free LAN access in all rooms makes these a good
value. Singles start at ¥9,450; doubles
at ¥17,850 per night. Slight discounts are offered for extended
stays. edit
Splurge
The western side of Shinjuku has a notable concentration of
luxury hotels.
- Four Seasons Tokyo. With only 57 rooms, some them the largest in
the city, plus a stunning gym with amazing views, it's no wonder
why it's Tokyo's most expensive hotel. edit
- Hyatt Regency Tokyo, 2-7-2 Nishi-Shinjuku (close to Shinjuku Station), ☎ +81 03-3348-1234 (tokyo.regency@hyatt.com),
[53]. 744 rooms and suites with views of Mt Fuji and
Shinjuku Central Park. Regency Club lounge for free continental
breakfast, tea service and evening cocktails. Hosts a roof-top pool
and healh spa. edit
- Keio Plaza Hotel, 2-2-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, ☎ +81 03-3344-0111, [54]. Less than 10 minutes by foot from Shinjuku
Station, has rooms that face the Shinjuku Metropolitan Government
office. edit
- Park Hyatt Tokyo, 3-7-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, ☎ +81 03-5322-1234, [55]. Towering above the rest literally and
figuratively, this hotel is best known for featuring prominently in
the movie Lost in Translation. Service and amenities are
superlative, but rates are astronomical even by Japanese
standards. Singles starting at
¥50,000. edit
- Sakura House, Nishi-Shinjuku K-1 Bldg 2F,
7-2-6, ☎ +81
3-5330-5250 (info@sakura-house.com), [56]. If you plan on staying in Tokyo for a month or more you might want to check
this place out. edit
- Tokyo Tourist Information Center, on the 1st floor of the
Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building 1,
[57]. 9:30AM-6PM daily. A good source of information on not just Tokyo
but all of Japan. This office is geared for foreign visitors, so
all materials are in languages other than Japanese and all staff
speak English. edit
- Shibuya is located 3 stations
south of Shinjuku on the Yamanote Line.
- Ikebukuro is located 3
stations north of Shinjuku on the Yamanote Line.
- Mitaka is
located West along the Chuo Line. It is the home of the Ghibli
Museum.
- Hachioji is a suburban city of Tokyo
located west of Shinjuku along the Keio Line and Chuo Line, with
access to Takao-san, a popular mountain for
hiking or just escaping the urban sprawl for a day.
- Hakone is
a popular area for onsens and easily accessible by the Odakyu
Line.
| Routes through Tokyo/Shinjuku |
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