The South Downs is one of the four areas of chalk downland in southern England.[1] They extend from the eastern side of Hampshire through Sussex, culminating in the cliffs at Beachy Head. Two areas of the Downs have been designated Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB); there are many Sites of Special Scientific Interest; and much of the Downs will be included in the future South Downs National Park[2].
The area is relatively unpopulated, although along its southern periphery there is an almost uninterrupted ribbon of seaside towns: it is extremely popular with walkers, having one principal long distance footpath, the South Downs Way, and many interconnecting ones. There are three principal gaps in the upland through which rivers flow; and there are also many dry valleys along its length.
The South Downs have a long history; there are archaeological remains from Neolithic times. Until the middle of the 20th century, sheep-rearing was the main occupation of those living on the Downs.[3]
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'Downs' is from Old English dun meaning, amongst other things, 'hill'. The word acquired the sense of 'elevated rolling grassland' around the fourteenth century. [4] These hills are prefixed 'south' to distinguish them from the morphologically similar range of hills - the North Downs - which run roughly parallel to them but some 50km to the north.
The South Downs are formed from a thick band of chalk which was deposited during the Cretaceous Period around sixty million years ago within a shallow sea which extended across much of northwest Europe. The rock is composed of the microscopic skeletons of plankton which lived in the sea, hence its colour. The chalk has many fossils, and bands of flint occur throughout the formation.[5] The Chalk is divided into the Lower, Middle and Upper Chalk, a thin band of cream-coloured nodular chalk known as the Melbourn Rock marking the boundary between the Lower and Middle units. The strata of southeast England, including the Chalk was gently folded during a phase of the Alpine Orogeny to produce the Weald-Artois Anticline, a dome-like structure with a long east-west axis. Erosion has removed the central part of the dome, leaving the north-facing escarpment of the South Downs along its southern margin with the North Downs as its counterpart, as shown on the diagram. The softer underlying rocks form the vale beneath the Downs with Ashdown Forest upstanding centrally within the Weald between the North and South Downs.[6]
The chalk, being porous, allows water to soak through; as a result there are many winterbournes along the northern edge.
The South Downs extend about 70 miles (112 km) from west to east, and seven miles (11.2 km) wide, north to south. Both the North and South Downs come together at the Wessex Downs, just inside the Hampshire border at the River Meon valley. The eastern end, where it reaches the coast between Seaford and Beachy Head, produces the spectacular scenery of the Seven Sisters, the undulating cliffs which are the remnants of dry valleys being eroded by the sea.
There are four river valleys which cut through the Downs: from west to east they are the Rivers Arun, Adur, Ouse and Cuckmere. Chalk acquifers and winterbourne streams supply much of the water required by the surrounding settlements. Dew ponds are a characteristic feature on the hillside: artificial ponds for watering livestock.
The highest point on the South Downs is Butser Hill, just south of Petersfield, Hampshire. At 270 m (886 ft) high, it qualifies as one of England's Marilyns. A list of those points on the South Downs above 700ft (213m) follows, in a west to east direction:
| Name of hill | Nearest settlement | Height | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Butser Hill | Petersfield | 270m (886ft) | Highest point in the South Downs National Park and the highest point in the East Hampshire ANOB |
| West Harting Down | South Harting | 215m (707ft) | |
| Beacon Hill | South Harting | 242m (793ft) | |
| Linch Down | Bepton | 248m (814ft) | |
| Littleton Down | East Lavington | 255m (836ft) | Summit is ‘’Crown Tegleaze’’: the highest point on the South Downs in Sussex [7] |
| Glatting Beacon | Sutton | 245m (803ft) | |
| Chanctonbury Hill | Washington | 238m (782ft) | Site of Chanctonbury Ring hill fort |
| Truleigh Hill | Upper Beeding | 216m (708ft) | |
| Ditchling Beacon | Ditchling | 248m (814ft) | |
| Firle Beacon | Firle | 217m (713ft) |
Archaeological evidence has revealed that the Downs have been inhabited and utilised for thousands of years. Neolithic flint mines and settlements; Bronze Age burial mounds; and Iron Age forts are all in evidence.[8].
It has been estimated that the tree cover of the downs was cleared some 2500 years ago, and the present closely-grazed turf is the result of continual grazing by sheep.
Two areas of the Downs are designated AONB: East Hampshire and Sussex Downs AONBs.
The proposal to set up the South Downs National Park first received governmental support in 1999. After a public enquiry between 2003-2005, and various legal objections, the enquiry re-opened in February 2008. On the 31st March 2009, it was announced that the South Downs would become a national park, after 60 years on the shortlist.[2]
Among the National Nature Reserves (NNR) is Kingley Vale NNR, near Chichester.
In 1923 the Society of Sussex Downsmen (now the South Downs Society) was formed with the aim of protecting the area's unique landscape.
The South Downs is a popular area for ramblers with a network of over 2,000 miles (3,200 km) of well-managed, well-signed and easily accessible trails. The principal bridleway, and longest of them, is the South Downs Way. [9]. The Monarch's Way, having originated at Worcester, crosses the South Downs and ends at Shoreham-by-Sea.[10]
Sports undertaken on the Downs include paragliding, mountain-biking, horse riding and walking.[11]
Two of the landmarks on the Downs are the Long Man of Wilmington, a chalk carved figure, and Clayton Windmills. There is also a war memorial, The Chattri, dedicated to Indian soldiers who died in the Brighton area, having been brought there for treatment after being injured fighting on the Western Front in the First World War.
Rudyard Kipling who lived at Rottingdean described the South Downs as "Our blunt, bow-headed whale-backed Downs".[12] Writing in 1920 in his poem The South Country, poet Hilaire Belloc describes the South Downs as "the great hills of the South Country".[13] In On The South Coast, poet Algernon Charles Swinburne describes the South Downs as "the green smooth-swelling unending downs".[14]
The naturalist-writer William Henry Hudson wrote that "during the whole 53-three mile length from Beachy Head to Harting the ground never rises above a height of 850 feet, but we feel on top of the world".[15]
Poet Francis William Bourdillon also wrote a poem "On the South Downs".[16] The South Downs have been home to several writers including Jane Austen who lived at Chawton on the edge of the Downs in Hampshire. The Bloomsbury Group often visited Monk's House in Rodmell, the home of Virginia Woolf. Alfred, Lord Tennyson had a second home at Aldworth on the edge of the Downs at Blackdown. Geologically part of the Weald, Blackdown lies close to the chalk downland and is part of the South Downs National Park.
Roundabout to Canterbury Charles S. Brooks 1926 copyright
![]() Part of the Downs near Devil's Dyke, Sussex |
![]() South Downs close to Beachy Head |
![]() Flowers on the South Downs |
![]() Flowers on the South Downs |
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Coordinates: 50°55′N 0°30′W / 50.917°N 0.5°W
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South Downs[1] is in East Sussex, England
The South Downs passes through the counties of East Sussex, West Sussex and Hampshire; there is no great difference between the counties.

East to West:
all the towns above have a shop, public toilets, transport links and some form of life
The south Downs are the remnants of the former Wealden Anticline, which stretched across Sussex, The chalk was laided down between 100 and 65 million years ago, on top of the weaker Greensand and Sandstone which makes up much of the Weald, the beds were then folded from 30 to 1 million years ago, the top of the chalk was then eroded, leaving two nearly parallel ridges, which is why 'The Downs' form a long ridge. They are mirrored in the north by the North Downs.
The Downs have undergoing inhabitation since the Bronze age at least, with numerous camps and figures on the hills. There are remains dating from The Bronze Age to the Second World War, the Battle of Lewes was fought on the downs and in the Elizabethan times their height was used for beacons (this is preserved within names, such as Firle Beacon).
The South Downs extend about 70 miles (100 km) through East Sussex, West Sussex, and part of Hampshire. The South Downs Way is a bridleway that follows the South Downs. Towns include Eastbourne with its 164 m high headland Beachy Head, Lewes, Ditchling, Clayton and the nearby Clayton Windmills, Hassocks, Hurstpierpoint and the nearby Wolstonbury Hill, Brighton, Hove, Portslade, Shoreham-by-Sea, Washington, Arundel, and Midhurst.
The Downs are penetrated by several rivers, such as the (from East to West) Cuckmere (its lower reaches form the famous meanders), the Ouse, the Adur, the Arun (passing through Arundel). The Views from the Downs take in some of the most beautiful countryside in the South East of England.
There are main line trains and long distance coaches to both Winchester and Eastbourne as well as several places in between. Allow around 60 – 90 minutes from London. Ferries to Newhaven and Portsmouth, and the London Airports (especially Gatwick) are handy for overseas visitors. Train's from London stop at these places close to the route:
Cyclists Please note that at some periods of the day and on some operators bikes are not allowed on the trains. also most of the more modern trains only have space for 3-4 bikes, thus large groups may have to book ahead or travel in smaller groups. Southern for example requests that 'limited number' of cycles are carried free on all services except on trains due to arrive into London or Brighton between 07.00 and 10.00, or due to depart from London stations or Brighton between 1600 and 1900 on Mondays to Fridays. Reservations for cycles are not required.
Car parks Car parking is normally good, although in towns and villages be expected to have to search and pay for parking spaces. Car parks are usually free from crime. but normal precortions must be taken. narrow lanes are common, as are steep hills, trying to take a caravan around the South Downs is not recommended.
No Bus routes run the complete length of the path, although there are coastal and inland routes, the park is serviced by routes passing through it, and has a fairly decent train service. Check out Traveline South East for full transport routes.
If you want to travel by car (advised) the A27 runs parrel to the South Downs, with various roads passing through the area (A23, A284, A24 and more).
A popular way is by foot, bike or horse, there is a route through the park (South Downs Way) which will take you over some of the best scenery in the UK (and you're not really affected by traffic).
The Devil's Dyke is the largest chalkland dry combe (a big waterless valley) in Britain and home to many associated plants and butterflies. From the summit there are dramatic views north towards the Weald and south over the sea. the area became a popular visiting spot during the 19th century, due to its proximity to Brighton,
The nearest pubs are in villages which means you have to walk down, and then back up. Some of the closest places to the the Downs to eat are:
Ditchling Beacon Car Park normally has a couple of ice cream vans floating about.
South Downs Way a long distance bridleway From Eastbourne to Heathfield (in the heart of the Weald) there is the Cuckoo Trail a cycle and walking path along a disused railway line.
Every Village has its own pub, each with its own character, expect good quality food and great beers (normally the local beer, Harveys, brewed in Lewes).
If you want to try some of the lamb produced on the Downs visit a local butcher or see if it is a special at a pub. You won't be disappointed!
Accommodation is plentiful; Camping sites, barns, hotels, pubs, cottages, YHA Bed and Breakfasts are all available. Consult the city and town articles for specific listings. Often smaller villages will have perhaps a restaurant and a small hotel, but not anything else for a traveller.
As far as 'wild' camping is concerned it is legal; however landowners permission is needed and for now it is difficult to cover the whole route by backpacking. The Sussex section has more opportunities to 'wild' camp than the Hampshire section.
Although the Downs are far from remote people have died on them, therefore ensure you have good quality footwear and a map. The South Downs Way is as safe as anywhere and much safer than any city – you need have no security concerns about going alone by day, however it is probably best to ensure you are not alone at night, the area is commonly used as a social gathering area for teenagers. The route often has sections with steep sides.
If you are planning some serious activity, especially alone remember the area as a whole is not suitable for people who are frail and due to its nature is not specially surfaced for wheelchairs and so can be rough and/or steep in places.
If you want to take young children on the downs, since it can be very hilly it is probably best to bring a pushchair.
If you are older you’ll need a suitable electric cross-country buggy such as a Tramper. Contact the Trail Officer for detailed information about the path surfaces, slopes, and useful contacts.
A basic kit should be as follows:
Luggage movement For those who may not want to carry all the things they need for 3 days on their backs; [4] has information on luggage movement services.
Take warm clothing e.g a jumper or fleece as even if it's sunny the wind speed can be high up on the downs.
Just check out the pages for East Sussex, West Sussex and Hampshire, there's always France, from Newhaven.
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