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Western dress codes

A man dressed in a three-piece suit and bowler hat.
For other garments (protective, etc) sometimes called suits, see suit (disambiguation).

In clothing, a suit is a set of garments made from the same cloth, consisting of at least a jacket and trousers. Lounge suits are the most common style of Western suit, originating in England as country wear.[1] Other types of suit still worn today are the dinner suit, part of black tie, which arose as a lounging alternative to dress coats in much the same way as the day lounge suit came to replace frock coats and morning coats; and, rarely worn today, the morning suit. This article discusses the lounge suit (including business suits), elements of informal dress code.

The variations in design, cut, and cloth, such as two- and three- piece, or single- and double- breasted, determine the social and work suitability of the garment. Often, suits are worn, as is traditional, with a collared shirt and necktie.[2] Until around the 1960s, as with all men's clothes, a hat would have been also worn when the wearer was outdoors. Suits also come with different numbers of pieces: a two-piece suit has a jacket and the trousers; a three piece adds a waistcoat; further pieces might include a matching flat cap.

Originally, as with most clothes, a tailor made the suit from his client's selected cloth; these are now often known as bespoke suits. The suit was custom made to the measurements, taste, and style of the man. Since the Industrial Revolution, most suits are mass-produced, and, as such, are sold as ready-to-wear garments (though alteration by a tailor prior to wearing is common). Currently, suits are sold in roughly three ways:

  • bespoke, in which the garment is custom-made from a pattern created entirely from the customer's measurements, giving the best fit and free choice of fabric;
  • made to measure, in which a pre-made pattern is modified to fit the customer, and a limited selection of options and fabrics is available;
  • and finally ready-to-wear, which is least expensive and hence most common.[3]

Contents

History

The current styles were founded in the revolution during the early seventeenth century that sharply changed the elaborately embroidered and jewelled formal clothing into the simpler clothing of the Regency period, which gradually evolved to the stark formality of the Victorian era. It was in the search for more comfort that the loosening of rules gave rise in the late nineteenth century to the modern lounge suit.

Etymology

The word suit derives from the French suite,[4] meaning "following", from some Late Latin derivative form of the Latin verb sequor = "I follow", because the component garments (jacket and trousers and waistcoat) follow each other and have the same cloth and colour and are worn together.

As a suit (in this sense) covers all or most of the wearer's body, the term "suit" was extended to a single garment that covers all or most of the body, such as boilersuits and diving suits and spacesuits (see Suit).

Parts of a suit

There are many possible variations in the choice of the style, the garments and the details of a suit.

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The cut

U.S. President J.F. Kennedy in a two-piece, single-breasted suit.

The silhouette of a suit is its outline. No suit is skin-tight; the amount of extra fabric and the way it hangs is known as the drape. The shape of the front of the suit is particularly affected by the way the suit buttons. The two main cuts consist firstly of double-breasted suits, a conservative design with two vertical rows of buttons, spanned by a large overlap of the left and right sides; and secondly, single-breasted suits, on which the sides just meet at the front down a single row of buttons.

British suits are characterised by moderately tapered sides, minimal shoulder padding, and two vents. Italian suits are characterised by strongly padded shoulders, strongly tapered sides, and no vent. American suits are considered more casual than the preceding styles, and are characterised by moderate shoulder padding, minimally tapered sides, and a single vent. The sack suit is a loose American style. Contemporary is a term that includes a variety of recently designed garments that do not fit into the preceding categories.[5]

The suit is cut out from a length of fabric from a roll by a cutter using a cutting pattern, a paper outline of the parts. The pattern can be draughted in various ways. With a ready-to-wear suit, the same pattern is used many times to make identical suits. Made-to-measure and bespoke cutters can work by pattern manipulation, altering a stock pattern, or by using a drafting formula to calculate adjusted lengths. Some bespoke tailors work by "Rock Of Eye", drawing and cutting by eye.[6]

Fabric

Suits are made in a variety of fabrics, but most commonly from wool. The two main yarns produce worsteds (where the fibres are combed before spinning) and woollens (where they are not). These can be woven in a number of ways producing flannel, tweed, gabardine, and fresco among others. These fabrics all have different weights and feel, and some fabrics have an S (or Super S) number describing the fineness of the fibres. For hot weather, linen is also used, and in North America cotton seersucker is worn. Other materials are used sometimes, such as cashmere.[7] Silk and silk blended with wool are sometimes used. Synthetic materials, while cheap, are very rarely recommended by experts.

The main three colours for suits worn in business are light grey, dark grey, and navy, either with or without patterns. In particular, grey flannel suiting has been worn very widely since the 1930s. In non-business settings or less-formal business contexts, brown is another important colour; olive also occurs. In summer, lighter shades, such as tan or cream, are popular.[8][9]

A man wearing a pinstriped pattern suit

For non-business use tweed has been popular since Victorian times, and still is commonly worn. A wide range of colour is available, including greens, browns, reds, and greys.[10] Tweeds are usually checked, or plain with a herringbone weave, and are most associated with the country. While full tweed suits are not worn by many now, the jackets are often worn as sports jackets with odd trousers (trousers of different cloth).

In the US and UK, suits were never traditionally made in plain black, this colour instead being reserved for formal wear[11] (including dinner jackets or strollers). However, the decline of formal wear in recent years has meant that black, as well as being popular in fashionable scenes,[11] such as clubbing, is now also being worn in formal contexts (such as to a funeral or religious function) in place of the traditional more formal wear.

Traditional business suits are generally in solid colours or with pin stripes;[12] windowpane checks are also acceptable. Outside business, the range of acceptable patterns widens, with plaids such as the traditional Glen plaid, though apart from some very traditional environments such as London banking, these are worn for business now too. The colour of the patterned element (stripes, plaids, and checks) varies by gender and location. For example, bold checks, particularly with tweeds, have fallen out of use in America, while they continue to be worn as traditionally in Britain. Some unusual old patterns such as diamonds are now rare everywhere.

Inside the jacket of a suit, between the outer fabric and the inner lining, there is a layer of fabric that has the purpose of letting the coat keep its shape; this layer of cloth is called the canvas. Expensive jackets have a floating canvas, while cheaply manufactured models have a fused (glued) canvas.[13] A fused canvas is less soft and, if poorly done, damages the suppleness and durability of the jacket,[14] so many tailors are quick to deride fused canvas as being less durable.[15] However, some selling this type of jacket claim that the difference in quality is very small.[16] A few London tailors state that all bespoke suits should use a floating canvas.[17] In June 2008, the Advertising Standards Authority (ASA), a British advertising regulator, ruled otherwise, citing the Oxford English Dictionary definition of bespoke as "made to order".[18]

Jacket

Front buttons

Single- vs. double-breasted jacket

Most single-breasted suits have two or three buttons, and one or four buttons are unusual. It is rare to find a suit with more than four buttons, although zoot suits can have as many as six or more due to their longer length. There is also variation in the placement and style of buttons,[19] since the button placement is critical to the overall impression of height conveyed by the jacket. The centre or top button will typically line up quite closely with the natural waistline.[20]

Double-breasted jackets have only half their outer buttons functional, as the second row is for display only, forcing them to come in pairs. Some rare jackets can have as few as two buttons, and during various periods, for instance the 1960s and 70s, as many as eight were seen. Six buttons are typical, with two to button; the last pair floats above the overlap. The three buttons down each side may in this case be in a straight line (the 'keystone' layout) or more commonly, the top pair is half as far apart again as each pair in the bottom square. A four-button double-breasted jacket usually buttons in a square.[21] The layout of the buttons and the shape of the lapel are co-ordinated in order to direct the eyes of an observer. For example, if the buttons are too low, or the lapel roll too pronounced, the eyes are drawn down from the face, and the waist appears larger.[22]

The custom that a man's coat should button "left side over right", anecdotally originates in the use of the sword, where such cut avoided catching the top of the weapon in the opening of the cloth (since the sword was usually drawn right-handed).[23] Women's suits are buttoned "right side over left". A similar anecdotal story to explain this is that women were dressed by maids, and so the buttons were arranged for the convenience of their, typically, right-handed servants; men on the other hand dressed themselves and so the buttons were positioned to simplify that task.[citation needed]

Lapels

A notched lapel
A peaked lapel
A shawl lapel

The jacket's lapels can be notched (also called "stepped"), peaked ("pointed"), shawl, or "trick" (Mandarin and other unconventional styles). Each lapel style carries different connotations, and is worn with different cuts of suit. Notched lapels are only found on single-breasted jackets and are the most informal style. Double-breasted jackets usually have peaked lapels. Shawl lapels are a style derived from the Victorian informal evening wear, and as such are not normally seen on suit jackets except for dinner suits.[24]

In the 1980s, double-breasted suits with notched lapels were popular among the Power suit and the New Wave style.

In the late 1920s and 1930s, a design considered very stylish was the single-breasted peaked lapel jacket. This has gone in and out of vogue periodically, being popular once again during the 1970s,[citation needed] and is still a recognised alternative. The ability to properly cut peak lapels on a single-breasted suit is one of the most challenging tailoring tasks, even for very experienced tailors.[25]

The width of the lapel is a varying aspect of suits, and has changed over the years. The 1930s and 1970s featured exceptionally wide lapels, whereas during the late 1950s and most of the 1960s suits with very narrow lapels—often only about an inch wide—were in fashion. The 1980s saw mid-size lapels with a low gorge (the point on the jacket that forms the "notch" or "peak" between the collar and front lapel). Current (mid-2000s) trends are towards a narrower lapel and higher gorge.[citation needed]

Lapels also have a buttonhole on the lapels, intended to hold a boutonnière, a decorative flower. These are now only commonly seen at more formal events. Usually double-breasted suits have one hole on each lapel (with a flower just on the left), while single-breasted suits have just one on the left.[26]

Pockets

Most jackets have a variety of inner pockets, and two main outer pockets, which are generally either patch pockets, flap pockets, or jetted pockets.[27] The patch pocket is, with its single extra piece of cloth sewn directly onto the front of the jacket, a sporting option, sometimes seen on summer linen suits, or other informal styles. The flap pocket is standard for side pockets, and has an extra lined flap of matching fabric covering the top of the pocket. A jetted pocket is most formal, with a small strip of fabric taping the top and bottom of the slit for the pocket. This style is most often on seen on formalwear, such as a dinner jacket.

In addition to the standard two outer pockets, some suits have a third, the ticket pocket, usually located just above the right pocket and roughly half as wide. While this was originally exclusively a feature of country suits, used for conveniently storing a train ticket, it is now seen on some town suits. Another country feature also worn sometimes in cities is a pair of hacking pockets, which are similar to normal ones, but slanted; this was originally designed to make the pockets easier to open on horseback while hacking.[5][28]

Sleeves

Suit jackets in all styles typically have three or four buttons on each cuff, which are often purely decorative (the sleeve is sewn closed and cannot be unbuttoned to open). Five buttons are unusual and are a modern fashion innovation. The number of buttons is primarily a function of the formality of the suit; a very casual summer sports jacket might traditionally (1930s) have had only one button, while tweed suits typically have three and city suits four. In the 1970s, two buttons were seen on some city suits.[citation needed] Today, four buttons are common on most business suits and even casual suits.

Although the sleeve buttons usually cannot be undone, the stitching is such that it appears they could. Functional cuff buttons may be found on high-end or bespoke suits; this feature is called a surgeon's cuff.[29] Some wearers leave these buttons undone to reveal that they can afford a bespoke suit, although it is proper to leave these buttons done up.[30] Modern bespoke styles and high end off-the-rack suits equipped with surgeon's cuffs have the last two buttons stitched off-centre, so that the sleeve hangs more cleanly should the buttons ever be undone.

A cuffed sleeve has an extra length of fabric folded back over the arm, or just some piping or stitching above the buttons to allude to the edge of a cuff. This was popular in the Edwardian era, as a feature of formalwear such as frock coats carried over to informalwear, but is now rare.

Vents

A vent is a slit in the bottom rear (the "tail") of the jacket.[28] Originally, vents were a sporting option, designed to make riding easier, so are traditional on hacking jackets, formal coats such as a morning coat, and, for reasons of pragmatism, overcoats. Today there are three styles of venting: the single-vented style (with one vent at the centre); the ventless style; and the double-vented style (one vent on each side). Vents are convenient, particularly when using a pocket or sitting down, to improve the hang of the jacket,[31] so are now used on most jackets. Ventless jackets are associated with Italian tailoring, while the double-vented style is typically British.[5] (This is not the case with all types of jackets. For instance, dinner jackets traditionally take no vents.)

Belted jackets

Suit jackets with belts on them became popular after World War I, especially on the exaggerated "jazz suits" which were popular in 1920 and 1921.[citation needed] After 1921, a more subdued style prevailed in which the belt was placed solely on the back of the coat, a half-belted back. This continued on many suit coats throughout the 1920s and early 1930s, usually on very fashionably made suits for the young. This style made a brief comeback in the 1970s when some suit coats again featured belts on the back.[citation needed]

Waistcoats

Waistcoats (often called vests in the USA) were almost always worn with suits prior to the 1940s. They were revived in the 1970s and remained popular throughout that decade in some parts of the world, and remain popular still, particularly for example in Germany. Waistcoats can be either single-breasted or double-breasted. A style that was quite popular among fashionable young men in the 1920s was to wear a single-breasted coat with a high-waisted double-breasted waistcoat. High-waisted single-breasted waistcoats were popular in both the 1920s–1930s and in the 1970s, and were often made with either five or six buttons. Today, many suit makers sell suits with waistcoats, although they often cost much more than a simple two-piece suit. A suit with a matching waistcoat is often called a three-piece suit. They are much more popular in continental Europe than in the USA, Britain, or Japan.[citation needed]

Trousers

Suit trousers are always made of the same material as the jacket. Even from the 1910s to 1920s, before the invention of sports jackets specifically to be worn with odd trousers, wearing a suit jacket with odd trousers was as an alternative to a full suit.[32] However, with the modern advent of sports jackets, suit jackets are always worn with matching trousers, and the trousers have always been worn with the appropriate jacket.[citation needed]

Trouser width has varied considerably throughout the decades. In the 1920s, trousers were straight-legged and wide-legged, with a standard width at the cuff of 23 inches. After 1935, trousers began to be tapered in at the bottom half of the leg. Trousers remained wide at the top of the leg throughout the 1940s. By the 1950s and 1960s, a more slim look had become popular. In the 1970s, suit makers offered a variety of styles of trousers, including flared, bell bottomed, wide-legged, and more traditional tapered trousers. In the 1980s these styles disappeared in favor of tapered, slim-legged trousers.

One variation in the design of trousers is the use or not of pleats. The most classic style of trouser is to have two pleats, usually forward, since this gives more comfort sitting and better hang standing.[33] This is still a common style, and for these reasons of utility has been worn throughout the twentieth century. The style originally descended from the exaggeratedly widened Oxford bags worn in the 1930s in Oxford, which, though themselves short-lived, began a trend for fuller fronts.[34] The style is still seen as the smartest, featuring on dress trousers with black and white tie. However, at various periods throughout the last century, flat fronted trousers with no pleats have been worn, and the swing in fashions has been marked enough that the more fashion-oriented ready-to-wear brands have not produced both types continuously.

Turn-ups on the bottom of trousers, or cuffs, were initially popularised in the 1890s by Edward VII,[35] and were popular with suits throughout the 1920s and 1930s. After falling out of style in World War II, they were not generally popular again, despite serving the useful purpose of adding weight to straighten the hang of the trousers. They have always been an informal option, being inappropriate on all formalwear.

Other variations in trouser style include the rise of the trouser. This was very high in the early half of the century, particularly with formalwear, with rises above the natural waist,[36] to allow the waistcoat covering the waistband to come down just below the narrowest point of the chest. Though serving less purpose, this high height was duplicated in the daywear of the period. Since then, fashions have changed, and have rarely been that high again with styles returning more to low-rise trousers, even dropping down have waistbands resting on the hips. Other changing aspects of the cut include the length, which determines the break, the bunching of fabric just above the shoe when the front seam is marginally longer than height to the shoe's top. Some parts of the world, such as Europe, traditionally opt for shorter trousers with little or no break, while Americans often choose to wear a slight break.[37]

A final major distinction is made in whether the trousers take a belt or braces (suspenders). While a belt was originally never worn with a suit, the forced wearing of belts during wartime years (caused by restrictions on use of elastic caused by wartime shortages) contributed to their rise in popularity, with braces now much less popular than belts. When braces were common, the buttons for attaching them were placed on the outside of the waistband, because they would be covered by a waistcoat or cardigan, but now it is more frequent to button on the inside of the trouser. Trousers taking braces are rather different in cut at the waist, employing inches of extra girth and also height at the back. The split in the waistband at the back is in the fishtail shape.

Breeches

As an alternative to trousers, breeches (or knickers in variations of English where this does not refer to underwear) may be worn with informal suits, such as tweed. These are shorter, descending to just below the knees, fastened closely at the top of the calf by a tab or button cuff. While once common, they are now typically only worn when engaged in traditional outdoor sports, such as shooting. The length and design is closely related to the plus-fours (and plus-sixes etc.) worn for sport, but differ in having no bagginess. They are usually designed to be worn with long socks meeting just below the knee, but riding breeches, worn with long boots such as top boots, are long enough to meet the boot and display no sock.[38]

Situations for wearing and perceptions of suits

Former US Secretary of State Condoleezza Rice and Turkish President Abdullah Gül wearing Western-style business suits.

The uniform impression of a suit can carry numerous connotations. In business settings, it can communicate respectability and taste. In different milieus, the connotations of corporate life that the suit represents convey unadventurous conformism. Extreme variations on the suit (like flamboyant colours) can convey the opposite.

Because wearing a suit conveys a respectable image, many people dress in suits during the job interview process.[39] An interview suit is usually a conservative style, and often made of blue or grey fabric. Interview suits are frequently composed of wool or wool-blend fabric, with a solid or pin stripe pattern.[40] The style of an interview suit, however, will depend on the organizational culture of the industry in which a person seeks employment.

When used to refer to management staff in corporations as "suits", the term "suit" can express contempt for the perceived absence of autonomy imposed on members in a uniform elitist bureaucracy. It may also be a comment on the perceived amorality of those who work for corporations.

In modern society, men's suits have become less common as an outfit of daily wear. During the 1990s, prevailing management philosophy of the time, particularly in the high technology sector, began to eschew suits and ties in favour of more casual attire for employees; the aim was to encourage a sense of openness and egalitarianism, and was also an outgrowth of the fact that many of the computer analysts and programmers affected by this had little to no face-to-face contact with clients, making a sense of formality less necessary. The suit and tie returned to the American office in the years following the collapse of the "dot-com bubble" and the subsequent demise of many of the start-up firms that had originated the idea of casual work attire; however, "business casual" dress still tends to be the norm for most workers up to and sometimes including mid-level management. Traditional business dress as an everyday style is generally relegated to middle- and upper-level corporate management, and to the professions (particularly law). For other men, particularly in Western society, a suit is an ensemble of clothing reserved for special occasions, such as weddings, funerals, and other more formal social events. Hence, because they are not a daily outfit for most men, they are often viewed as being "stuffy" and uncomfortable, mostly because poor suits limit freedom of movement. The combination of a tie, belt and vest can be tight and restrictive compared to contemporary casual wear. The Christian Science Monitor reported that a suit combined with a necktie and slacks was "a design that guarantees that its wearer will be uncomfortable." [41] Therefore, in nearly all classes of society, suits are no longer a required part of daily work or leisure attire, except in higher-level business circles. During the late 1960s and early 1970s, men's suits became less commonly worn in much the same way as skirts and dresses were dropped by many women in favour of trousers. This was seen as a liberation from the conformity of earlier periods and declined concurrently with the women's liberation movement. For professions which still call for a dressier approach to clothing (sometimes referred to in the US as white collar jobs), an acceptable alternative to a suit may be a shirt with a tie.

Suit etiquette for men

Buttoning the suit jacket

The buttoning of the jacket is primarily determined by the button stance, a measure of how high the buttons are in relation to the natural waist. In some (now unusual) styles where the buttons are placed high, the tailor would have intended the suit to be buttoned differently from the more common lower stance. Nevertheless, some general guidelines are given here.

Double-breasted suit coats are almost always kept buttoned. When there is more than one to fasten (as in a traditional six-on-two arrangement), only the top one need be fastened; in some configurations, the wearer may elect to fasten only the bottom button, in order to present a longer line (a style popularised by the Prince George, Duke of Kent).

Single-breasted suit coats may be either fastened or unfastened. In two-button suits the bottom button is traditionally left unfastened except with certain unusual cuts of jacket. When fastening a three-button suit, the middle button is fastened, and the top one sometimes, but the bottom is traditionally not designed to be (although in the past some jackets were cut so that it could be fastened without distorting the drape, this is not the case with current clothing). A four-button suit is untraditional and so has no traditional guidelines on buttoning, but the middle ones at least should be fastened. Additionally, the one button suit has regained some popularity (it is also a classic style for some Savile Row tailors). The button should always be fastened while standing.

With a single-breasted suit, it is proper to have the buttons unfastened while sitting down to avoid an ugly drape. A good double-breasted suit is usually able to be left buttoned, to avoid the difficulty of constantly redoing inner buttons when standing up.

Ties with suits

Working with neckties is very much a matter of personal taste, but in conservative terms there are some basic guidelines.

Colour: Ties should always be darker than the wearer's shirt. The background colour of the tie should not be the same as that of the shirt, while the foreground of the tie should contain the colour of the shirt and thereby "pick up" on the colour of the shirt. Ideally, the tie should also integrate the colour of the suit in the same way. Generally, simple or subdued patterns are preferred for conservative dress, though these are terms with a wide range of interpretation. During the late 1990s and early 2000s, it became popular to match the necktie colour with the shirt (a "monochromatic" look popularized by TV personality Regis Philbin) or even wearing a lighter coloured tie with a darker shirt, usually during formal occasions. A light blue shirt with a blue tie that is darker in its colour is also common.

Knot: Some of the most common knots are the Four-in-hand, the Half-Windsor, the Windsor (or Full-Windsor), and the Shelby or Pratt. A Four-in-hand, Half-Windsor, or Windsor is generally the most appropriate with a suit, particularly by contemporary guidelines. Once properly knotted and arranged, the bottom of the tie can extend anywhere from the wearer's navel level, to slightly below the waistband. The thin end should not extend below the wide end, though this can occasionally be seen to be acceptable with thin ties.

Alternatives: In the 1960s, it was fashionable for men as well as women to wear scarves with a suit in a tied knot either inside a shirt as an Ascot or under the collar as a would be worn like a tie. This style was more common towards anyone in the art departments such as film directors or more commonly musicians[citation needed]. This style began to fade by the mid 1970s and came back in the 1990s mainly for women. It did however make a small comeback by 2005 and some famous stars wear them. Although some wore scarves back in the 1960s, ties were still preferred among business workers.

Shirts with suits

The type of shirt worn by men with a suit is a top made of woven cloth, with long sleeves, a full-length buttoned opening down the front, and a collar. This type of garment is known in American English as a dress shirt but simply as a shirt in other English dialects. This type of shirt is sometimes called an Oxford shirt; however, this properly refers to a shirt made from a specific kind of fabric, namely Oxford cloth, in a specific style (i.e., with button-down collars). The (dress) shirt is ironed, neatly tucked into its wearer's trousers, and otherwise worn according to the etiquette described in the article Dress shirt.

The classic shirt colours are light blue or white, with white considered most conservative. However, numerous colours and shades are available, with pastels particularly popular in America, though less-formal colours are not always acceptable. The most formal type of dress shirt worn with a standard suit is a shirt with linked, but not French, cuffs, which are closed using cuff links or silk knots instead of buttons. However, this type of shirt is optional, and essentially up to the preferences of the wearer and the vagaries of fashion.

The most traditional collar is a spread collar. This is frequently the default collar type for French cuff shirts, though they can sometimes be found with point collars. Normally, button-down collars are reserved for casual use with a sports jacket or without a coat at all, though they have long been acceptable in America. The button-down collar is not seeing as much wear today, particularly with the resurgence of more formal shirts with spread collars and French cuffs, even in business casual wear.

Socks with suits

In the United States it is common for socks to match the trouser leg.[42] This makes the leg appear longer and minimises the attention drawn by a trouser leg tailored to be too short. A more general rule is for socks to be darker than the shade of the trousers, but potentially a different colour. With patterned socks, ideally the background colour of the sock should match the primary colour of the suit. If it is not possible to match the trouser leg, socks may match one's shoes. In particular, pale or even white socks might be worn with, for example, a cream linen suit with white shoes. Although white socks may be worn with very light coloured suits, it is less common and considered a faux pas with darker suits. In practice therefore socks are usually black or brown, particularly for more conservative occasions.

Socks are preferably[citation needed] at least mid-calf height (over-the-calf), if not knee-height, and are usually made predominantly of cotton or wool, though luxury or dress socks may use more exotic blends such as silk and cashmere. Before WWII, patterned socks were common, and a variety of designs like Argyle or contrasting clocks was commonly seen. After WWII, socks became more subdued in colour.

Shoes with suits

The correct footwear varies from country to country. Shoes should always be smarter shoes, such as Oxfords (Balmorals in American English), Derbies (Blüchers), or smart slip-ons; never very casual shoes such as trainers (sneakers) or deck shoes. A slip-on is normally only worn with a modern and very informal suit: brown or sometimes navy. Shoes also have differing degrees of decoration, with less ornamentation being more formal, leaving half- and full- brogues as less formal options. Shoes are broadly divided into the two categories of black and not black. Black shoes are worn with all business suits by the English, who traditionally keep brown shoes with suits for tweed or linen only. The rest of the world wears black with grey or black suits, and brown with navy and non-business suits. The shades of brown also vary considerably, as only Americans generally wear colours like cordovan or oxblood; lighter browns are less formal and more appropriate for summer, for example with linen.

Accessories with suits

A pinstriped navy blue suit, with a grey one in the background, necktie and pocket square.

Belts come in and out of fashion; at the turn of the century and in the 1930s–40s they were worn less than braces (suspenders), but now are generally worn more; in some countries such as the UK, traditionalist men still do not wear belts with suits. If worn, the belt and shoes must be roughly the same colour, with the belt a smart one (leather, plain silver or gold coloured buckle). Braces are often worn if a belt is not.

Jewelry should be kept to an absolute minimum, consisting at most of cuff links, tie bars or tacks, and a timepiece. The thinner the watch, the more formal, and analogue watches are more formal than digital. In the most formal situations, a pocket watch, or no watch at all, should be worn. When worn, a pocket watch is not placed in the trouser pocket, but usually accompanies a waistcoat. In this case it may be carried in any of its pockets, but commonly where it can be easily accessed, such as a left pocket for a right-handed man. The watch is not carried loose, but is attached by a watch chain, which is threaded through the watch-hole: on traditional waistcoats, halfway down is an extra horizontal hole, not intended for a button, which is meant to be used for the watch chain; if no such hole is present, a buttonhole is used instead. A chain normally has one or two ends, the first of which attaches to the watch, the second holding either a decorative fob or a key for winding the watch; a bar in the middle catches on the buttonhole, holding the watch if it is dropped. Pocket watches are occasionally placed in the breast pocket, secured to the lapel buttonhole.

Handkerchiefs (pocket squares) in the upper welt (chest) pocket are not especially common today. Originally, handkerchiefs were worn partially protruding from the left jacket sleeve. Over time, they migrated to the breast pocket. When silk was still a rare and expensive commodity, they were considered a flamboyant extravagance by conservative commentators. By the end of the 19th century, however, they had become a standard accoutrement for gentlemen, and in some places are still considered obligatory on any jacket or coat with a breast pocket.

Suit etiquette for women

Suit-wearing etiquette for women generally follows the same guidelines used by men, with a few differences and slightly more flexibility.

For women, a dress or skirts are acceptable suits; a blouse (usually white) takes the place of a shirt. Blue and pink blouses are also seen. Women have more leeway in selecting their tops than men have in selecting their shirts. Sometimes a high-quality knitted top replaces the blouse; this is not universally accepted but is common, particularly if the top is made of a luxurious material.

Women's suits come in a larger variety of colors such as darks, pastels, and gem colors. Skirt suits are as popular as pant suits (trouser suits).

Women generally do not wear neckties with their suits. Fancy silk scarves that resemble a floppy ascot tie were popular in North America in the 1970s, worn with pant suits. At that time women entered the white-collar workforce in large numbers and their dress fashions imitated men's business wear.

Notes

  1. ^ Antongiavanni (2006). p. 74
  2. ^ Flusser (2002). p. 146
  3. ^ Antongiavanni (2006). p. 35
  4. ^ Oxford English Dictionary Online (2008). suit, n. 19b.
  5. ^ a b c Flusser (1985). ch. 2
  6. ^ Mahon, Thomas (2005-09-23). "How to draft a pattern". English Cut. http://www.englishcut.com/archives/2005_02.html. Retrieved 2008-09-20. 
  7. ^ Antongiavanni (2006). p. 76
  8. ^ Flusser (2002). pp. 93–99
  9. ^ Antongiavanni (2006). pp. 80–86
  10. ^ Flusser (2002). p. 95
  11. ^ a b Antongiavanni (2006). p. 81
  12. ^ Flusser (2002). p. 94
  13. ^ Flusser (2002). p. 288
  14. ^ Antongiavanni (2006). p. 66
  15. ^ Mahon, Thomas (2005-02-08). "Fused vs. floating". English Cut. http://www.englishcut.com/archives/000020.html. Retrieved 2008-09-20. 
  16. ^ Merrion, Desmond (2008-11-08). "Recent made to measure tailoring". http://www.desmerrionbespoketailor.com/folders/weblog/20081108/. Retrieved 2008-11-19. 
  17. ^ Mahon, Thomas (2005-01-06). "How to pick a "bespoke" tailor". English Cut. http://www.englishcut.com/archives/000005.html. Retrieved 2008-09-20. 
  18. ^ Advertising Standards Authority (2008-06-18). "Sartoriani London". ASA Adjudications. http://www.asa.org.uk/asa/adjudications/Public/TF_ADJ_44555.htm. Retrieved 2008-10-09. 
  19. ^ Druesdow (1990). p. vi. "...for often the difference in style from season to season was in the distance between buttons..."
  20. ^ Flusser (2002). p. 83
  21. ^ Antongiavanni (2006). p. 14
  22. ^ Antongiavanni (2006). p. 16
  23. ^ "About Suits and Jackets". BenSilver.com. http://www.bensilver.com/style04/about_SuitsJackets.htm. Retrieved 2008-09-20. 
  24. ^ Flusser (2002). pp. 82–85
  25. ^ Mahon, Thomas (2005-03-29). "Single-breasted, peaked lapel". English Cut. http://www.englishcut.com/archives/000052.html. Retrieved 2008-09-20. 
  26. ^ Boehlke, Will (2007-01-07). "What's in your lapel?". A Suitable Wardrobe. http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2007/01/whats-in-your-lapel.html. Retrieved 2008-09-24. 
  27. ^ The Nu-Way Course in Fashionable Clothes Making (1926). Lesson 33
  28. ^ a b Bookster, a manufacturer of tweed jackets, has illustrations of various features of jackets: "Jacket options". http://www.tweed-jacket.com/GALLERY%20PAGE/Bespoke%20Options/index.htm. Retrieved 2008-09-20. 
  29. ^ Mahon, Thomas (2007-01-18). "Real cuff holes...". English Cut. http://www.englishcut.com/archives/000215.html. Retrieved 2008-10-26. 
  30. ^ Rosenbloom, Stephanie (February 13, 2009). "For Fine Recession Wear, $7,000 Suits From Saks (Off the Rack)". New York Times. http://www.nytimes.com/2009/02/14/business/14saks.html. Retrieved 2009-02-14. 
  31. ^ Antongiavanni (2006). p. 172
  32. ^ Flusser (2002). p. 100
  33. ^ Flusser (2002). p. 92
  34. ^ Flusser (2002). p. 112
  35. ^ Flusser (2002). p. 284
  36. ^ Croonborg (1907). p. 100 lists tables of trousers heights
  37. ^ Flusser (2002). p. 61
  38. ^ Croonborg (1907). p. 118
  39. ^ Wilson, Eric (2008–11–13). "The Return of the Interview Suit". The New York Times. pp. E1, E10. http://www.nytimes.com/2008/11/13/fashion/13INTERVIEW.html. Retrieved 2008–11–22. 
  40. ^ Canisius College MBA Program (2008-04-24). "Confused about Buying an Interview Suit...This is all you will ever need to know!". http://www.buffalo-mba.com/confused-about-buying-an-interview-suitthis-is-all-you-will-ever-need-to-know/. Retrieved 2008–11–22. 
  41. ^ To save power, Bangladesh bans suits and ties, Christian Science Monitor, September 5, 2009
  42. ^ Flusser (2002). p. 173

References

External links


Simple English

A suit is an ensemble (an outfit made from more than one piece) of clothing which includes a dress shirt, dress pants, a suit jacket, dress socks, leather dress shoes, very often a tie and sometimes a vest. This outfit is worn in many countries by men in professional jobs such as business, law, and politics. It is also sometimes worn by women and in such cases a dress skirt is sometimes worn.

Parts of a suit

  • A suit jacket is usually made of wool, silk, cotton, linen or polyester. Suit jackets often have a collar, pockets, and a silk or polyester lining. Suit jackets come in many colors, but the most common are black, dark blue, brown and grey. Suit jackets come in different styles including double-breasted (buttons on both sides of the front, single-breasted (buttons down one side of the front only), two-button, three-button or more.
  • The dress shirt is usually made of silk, cotton or linen. A dress shirt often has a stiff collar and it is ironed before it is worn. Dress shirts come in many colors. Some dress shirts have patterns woven into them or printed onto them.
  • A necktie is usually made of silk or polyester, and it usually has a color or pattern on it. Occasionally, a suit is worn with a bow tie or no tie at all.
  • Dress pants are often made of cotton, linen, wool or polyester, and they are ironed before they are worn. Traditionally in a suit the pants are made to match the suit jacket in both color and fabric.
  • Dress socks are often made of silk, cotton or a mix of cotton and polyester. Dress socks are usually in a dark color such as black, dark blue or grey. In some countries such as Germany many men wear tights under their suits.
  • Sometimes, people wearing a suit and tie will also wear a sleeveless vest with buttons in the front.


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