| Wan Chai | |||||||||||||
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| Wan Chai as seen from the Victoria Harbour | |||||||||||||
| Chinese | 灣仔 | ||||||||||||
| Cantonese Jyutping | waan1 zai2 | ||||||||||||
| Literal meaning | "small bay" or "cove" | ||||||||||||
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Wan Chai (English pronunciation: /ˌwɑːn ˈtʃaɪ/ Chinese: 灣仔) is a metropolitan area situated at the western part of the Wan Chai District on the northern shore of Hong Kong Island, in Hong Kong. Its other boundaries are Canal Road to the east, Arsenal Street to the west and Bowen Road to the south. The area north of Gloucester Road is often called Wan Chai North. Wan Chai is one of the busiest commercial areas in Hong Kong with many small and medium-sized companies. Wan Chai North features office towers, parks, hotels and an international conference and exhibition centre. As one of the first areas developed in Hong Kong, the locale is densely populated yet with noticeable residential zones facing urban decay. Arousing considerable public concern, the government has undertaken several urban renewal projects in recent years. There are many unique buildings and skyscrapers, most notably the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (HKCEC), Central Plaza and Hopewell Centre.
Wan Chai is not to be confused with Chai Wan, which is another area on Hong Kong Island.
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Wan Chai originally began as Ha Wan (下環), literally meaning "a bottom ring" or "lower circuit".[1] As one of the earliest developed areas in Hong Kong. Central, Sheung Wan, Sai Wan and Wan Chai are collectively known as the four rings (四環) by the locals. Wan Chai literally means "a cove" in Cantonese, but the area itself is no longer a cove due to drastic city development and continual land reclamation.
Wan Chai was first home to the many Chinese villagers living along the undisturbed coastlines in proximity to Hung Shing Temple. Most of them were fishermen, who worked around the area near Hung Shing Temple overlooking the entire harbour. Hung Shing Ye, the God of the Sea, was one of the deities worshiped by the locals.[2]
With the growth of the British Hong Kong administration, centred in old Victoria, modern Central, Wan Chai attracted those on the fringes of society, such as coolies, who came to live on Queen's Road East. A focal point of development was Spring Gardens, a red-light zone.[3] By the 1850s the area was already becoming a Chinese residential area.[1] There were dockyards in Ship Street and McGregor Street for building and repairing ships. The edge of Sun Street, Moon Street and Star Street is the original site of the first power station in Hong Kong, operated by the Hongkong Electric Company, which began supplying power in 1890.[4] One of the first water-front military hospitals was the Seaman's hospital built in 1843 as part of the Royal Naval Dockyard for the British Royal Navy. It was later revitalized as the Ruttonjee hospital.[5]
The district was home to several well known schools. One of these was established by the famous traditional teacher, Mo Dunmei (莫敦梅). Started as a shushu (書塾) in 1919, the school was renamed Dunmei School (敦梅學校) in 1934.[6][7] It taught classical Chinese writings and Confucian ethics.
During the Japanese occupation in the 1940s, many bombardments took place. Stories of cannibalism, starvation, torture and abuses by Japanese soldiers, and child labour were told. Senior residents recall vividly how they survived the hardships.[7] The Dunmei school was closed during the Japanese occupation period. After the war, the school continued to provide Chinese education for children from families of higher income.[6]
During the 1950s the pro-Communist underground cell network Hailiushe (海流社) was headquartered in the rooftop of a multi-story house on Spring Garden Lane. The group was successfully raided by the Hong Kong police.[8]
Prostitution is one of the oldest occupations in Wan Chai. There are numerous historical western accounts of women trading sex for western merchandise as soon as sailors got off the trading ships.[9] In the 1960s, Wan Chai became legendary for its exotic night life, especially for the US service men resting there during the Vietnam war.[1] Therefore, it was ridden with sex crimes. Despite rapid changes due to reclamation and redevelopment, the presence of sex workers operating among ordinary residents continues to be a distinct feature of the area. Some of the lifestyle has been illustrated in the past in movies such as The World of Suzie Wong.[10]
Wan Chai's HKCEC was the site of the Hong Kong handover ceremony in 1997. The WTO Ministerial Conference in 2005 was also one of the largest international events ever hosted in Hong Kong, with 148 nations participating.
In May 2009, 300 guests and staff members at the Metropark Hotel in Wan Chai were quarantined, suspected of being infected or in contact with the H1N1 virus during the 2009 swine flu outbreak. A 25 year old Mexican man who had stayed at the hotel was later found to have the viral infection. He had traveled to Hong Kong from Mexico via Shanghai.[11][12]
Wan Chai has been extended outward with a series of land reclamation schemes. Early in 1841, where the earliest coastline was located at Queen's Road East, the first reclamation took place. The project was privately funded and the government did not take part. There was no name associated with the first project.[13] The next reclamation that had an effect on Wan Chai was the Praya East Reclamation Scheme. The coastline was extended to Praya East, that is, today's Johnston Road and Hennessy Road. The reclamation after World War II from 1965 to 1972 pulled the coastline out to the areas around Convention Avenue and the Wan Chai Pier. The 1990s Wan Chai Development project added land to where the current HKCEC exists today.
Wan Chai is a major hub of foreign and Chinese culture in Hong Kong. It is home to Alliance Francaise, Goethe Institut and the British Council. Near the waterfront are the Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts and Hong Kong Arts Centre, two of the most popular venues for theatrical and cultural performances in the region. The academy is a convenient venue for drama, mini-concerts, dance, and musicals. Every year there are many Broadway musicals playing in the academy, including Western plays such as Singin' in the Rain, Saturday Night Fever, and Annie. The Arts Centre also houses galleries, rehearsal rooms and a restaurant overlooking the harbour. In halloween, expect to see youngsters to dress in costumes trying to scare passersby.The Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (HKCEC), a HK$4.8 billion convention centre extension completed in 1997, covers over 16 acres (65,000 m²) of newly reclaimed land that added an extra 38,000 m² of functional space to the existing convention centre.[14][15] It remains a venue for international trade fairs, some of which are the biggest in the world. The July annual Hong Kong Book Fair along with cosplay competitions are also held at the facility.
Southorn Playground is a major landmark in Hong Kong, particularly to the senior residents. It is a place associated with entertainment as well as work, with its atmosphere changing throughout the day. In the morning, labourers come together to wait for employment. In the evening, it is altered into an open-air area with people selling food, performing magic and kung fu.
Some of the trademark activities include senior citizens playing Chinese chess. The younger generation would play football and basketball with street basketball games attracting flocks of young spectators and players. Occasionally, three-player drill contests and hip hop dance competitions are held in the park.
Wan Chai offers a wide range of religion like Buddhism, Taoism, Catholicism, Protestantism, Christianity, Sikhism and Islam. Despite such great differences, many religious structures are located in close proximity with one another. Hung Shing Temple, for example, is a typically Taoist temple. Inside, there are Buddhist Kwun Yum chapels next to the main altar. People coming to worship Hung Shing Ye could also burn joss sticks to Kwun Yum as well. Villain hitting is another blended ceremony, combining the disproportional Confucianism, Taoism and even folk religion. Some old female "psychics" perform this ancient ceremony under the Canal Road Flyover in particular days of a lunar month. The Wan Chai Khalsa Diwan Sikh Temple is the biggest Sikh temple in Hong Kong.[16]
Wan Chai offers historical conservation spots including Old Wan Chai Post Office, Hung Shing Temple and Pak Tai Temple. Many of the medium-sized shopping centres are named in numerals, such as Oriental 188, 328, and 298 Computer Centre. The numbers may come from the earlier days when prostitution houses were all numbered, and referred to as "big numbers" (大冧巴, dai lum bah).[1] There are also many commercial complexes and skyscrapers. The HK$4.4 billion 78-story skyscraper Central Plaza currently stand as the second tallest in Hong Kong.[17] The apex of Central Plaza is designed as a unique neon tower clock. It consists of four neon spandrel bands, each representing 15 minutes, and the colour changes from top to bottom. When the four bands are of the same colour, an hour has passed. More than an innovative clock, "Lightime" has become a new symbol the same way Eiffel Tower reminds people of Paris. Small but free art exhibitions are on also the second floor year round. Other tourist attractions include Golden Bauhinia Square featuring a flag-raising ceremony held daily outside the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. The ceremony is enhanced on July 1 (handover anniversary) and October 1 (National Day).
A 3-story pergola exhibit is built opposite to Li Chit Garden. Tai Fat Hau footbridge also holds an art display of 30,000 citizens' fingerprints slated for the Guinness Book of World Records.[18] The sticker pictures on the 50 poles of the bridge are roughly called the "50 landscapes of Wan Chai" (灣仔五十景).[18]
Lovers' Rock reclines on the hillside of Bowen Road near Shiu Fai Terrace and looks like a stone pen sticking out of a stone base. This special looking rock is said to have granted happy marriages to devoted worshippers.[19] Many people are attracted by its reputation.
Throughout Wan Chai's history, construction styles have changed according to the architectural movement at the time.
| Era | Style | Examples |
|---|---|---|
| Qing Dynasty | Chinese-style | Hung Shing Temple |
| 1910s-1920s | Neoclassical architecture | Old Wan Chai Post Office |
| 1930s | Streamline Moderne architecture | Wan Chai Market |
| Post-WWII | Bauhaus-style | Shop houses (tong-lau) on Lee Tung
Street, Tai
Yuen Street Caltex House |
In the 1950s and 1960s, an increasing number of girlie bars and nightclubs were opened in the red-light district by Jaffe and Lockhart Road. The establishments entertained visiting sailors landing at Fenwick Pier. Beyond Gloucester Road is the commercial area developed in the late 1970s and 1980s, a time at which Hong Kong underwent economic development at full speed. At the same time, buildings like the Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts, HKCEC, and Central Plaza were constructed on the newly reclaimed land.
Many of Wan Chai's older buildings now face a serious problem of urban decay. In order to tackle the problem, the government has launched a series of urban renewal projects to bring new life into the area. Many local residents have relocation worries such as whether the Urban Renewal Authority can compensate enough to put them in a new space of equal size. Other concerns involve the loss of building character that make up part of that Hong Kong cultural identity.
After the completion of the Central and Wan Chai Reclamation Feasibility Study in 1989, the Land Development Policy Committee endorsed the idea of an ongoing series of reclamation.[20] The reclamation comprises three district development cells separated by parks, namely, Central, Tamar and Exhibition. Each cell was further divided into five phases.
Geographically, Wan Chai is the midpoint between the west (West Point/Central) and the east (Causeway Bay/North Point), linking all points on Hong Kong Island. The transport infrastructure is efficient, convenient and highly accessible.
Star Ferry is the sole ferry operator in the area at Wan Chai Pier. Several lines cross Victoria Harbour from HKCEC, Wan Chai. Destinations include Cultural Centre in Tsim Sha Tsui and Whampoa Garden in Hung Hom. Even though there are now numerous ways to cross Victoria Harbour, the Star Ferry continues to provide an inexpensive option. Numerous shipping companies also have their headquarters in Wanchai such as Anglo-Eastern Group.
Wan Chai's Gloucester Road is connected to Cross-Harbour Tunnel, the first underwater tunnel in Hong Kong.[21] Bridging Hong Kong Island at Kellet Island and a reclaimed site at Hung Hom Bay in Kowloon, the tunnel provides a direct link. Prior to the tunnel's opening in 1972, crossing the harbour depended solely on the Star ferries.[22] Linking the main financial districts on both sides of Victoria Harbour, the tunnel carries 123,000 vehicles daily.[23] Other roads such as Queen’s Road East have been one of the earliest development spots in the history of Hong Kong. Landmarks such as Hennessy Road were named after previous Governors, leaving an impression of its Colonial past.
The main MTR railway is beneath Hennessy Road in the locality. Due to the large area of Wan Chai, more than 50 entry/exit gates and 8 entrances/exits are set up. One of the entrances/exits is on the footbridge along O'Brien Road, which leads to Immigration Tower in Wan Chai North.
Tram services are available between Shau Kei Wan on the east of the island, and Kennedy Town on the west, with a branch circuit in Happy Valley. The route serves Johnston Road and Hennessy Road.
Most buses travel in Wan Chai from Admiralty to Causeway Bay via Hennessy Road, whereas one would use Johnston Road or Gloucester Road as detours.
Only red taxi services are available in Wan Chai. Besides some restricted kerbs in the highways, there are some designated pick-up and drop-off points in the region.
There are two types of minibus in Wan Chai, green minibus and red minibus. In general, green minibuses operate scheduled service, with fixed routes and fixed fares. Red minibuses run on non-scheduled service, although some routes may in effect become fixed over time.
![]() Wan Chai skyline |
![]() A printing shop closed down with a sign posted by the Urban Renewal Authority |
![]() Old dilapidated buildings in metro area |
![]() Tai Yau Arcade |
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| Wan Chai District | ||
|---|---|---|
| (Victoria Harbour) | ||
| Central and Western District | Main borders and locations | Eastern District |
| Causeway Bay | Happy Valley | Jardine's Lookout | Stubbs Road | Tai Hang | Wan Chai | Wan Chai North | Wong Nai Chung Gap | ||
| Southern District | ||
Wan Chai is an administrative district of Hong Kong Island
Wan Chai is much more than a couple of blocks of girlie-bars populated by drunken American sailors; after all, the World of Suzie Wong was just a work of fiction set in Wan Chai during a bygone age. Located between Causeway Bay and Admiralty, Wanchai has an inner-city feel that makes it an interesting but safe area to walk around at any time. Wan Chai has traditional street markets that, unlike many other neighbourhoods, are still outdoors. In the so-called wet-markets, butchers hang animal carcasses on large hooks that overshadow pavements and fishmongers have stalls with live fish that do their best to escape. Between Johnston Road and Queen's Road East are numerous alleys that are worth exploring if you are looking for traditional family-run shops selling anything from tropical fish to cheap clothing.
A shopping district that is home to large department stores, such as Sogo. Causeway Bay is crowded most of the time but here you can eat and shop until very late. Some major supermarkets and eateries stay open 24 hours. Times Square in Causeway Bay is a major focal point, especially at the 'calendar' New Year when you will be wise to stay away if you hate crowds. The area is also popular among Hong Kong's youth and is a good place to check out the latest fashion trends.
Nestled behind the Happy Valley Racecourse, away from the MTR line, this district has a more laid-back feel than nearby Wan Chai and Causeway Bay. Happy Valley was not always the happiest place to be. When the first British troops were stationed in Happy Valley the death rate from malaria was so high that, with typical British sarcasm, the place was dubbed Happy Valley. It is a popular residential area, especially among expats. There is a tram line circling the racecourse that serves the district. This area is also home to the beautiful and historic Hong Kong Cemetery.
The Star Ferry arrives at Wan Chai Pier from Hung Hom and Tsim Sha Tsui.
The Tsuen Wan Line from Kowloon passes Admiralty. From here the Island Line passes through Wan Chai and Causeway Bay stations.
The tram runs from Kennedy Town to Sai Wan Ho.
The harbour-front at Wan Chai is host to one of Hong Kong's most outstanding buildings - the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. Take directions from the MTR to find this remarkable building; alternatively, use the Star ferry from Tsim Sha Tsui to arrive at the Wan Chai ferry terminal - sit on the right-hand-side of the ferry and have your camera ready to take shots of the Convention Centre as you sail towards Wan Chai.
If you are refused admittance, you can take a walk along the promenade at the front of the building to find the place where the British returned Hong Kong to mainland China. Paved in cheap concrete, the modest plaza where the Handover took place in 1997 is home to two monuments; one takes the form of a giant golden bauhinia and the other looks like a chimney stack. The bauhinia tree is sometimes known as the Hong Kong orchid and has been adopted as the emblem of the SAR which features on the Hong Kong flag that flutters above the square. For the many tourists from mainland China, this place holds a special significance, so you can expect a steady stream or tour buses.
Horse Racing has been taking place at Happy Valley racetrack since 1846. Happy Valley is particularly impressive during the evening meets with the surrounding skyscrapers lit up. Unless you know the right sort of people your best chance of getting into the races is by the public entrance. Entrance will cost you just a few dollars and you will have the advantage of being at ground level next to the race track. Alcohol, especially beer, is sold at cheap prices. Unless you like fast-food, plan to eat before or after gambling away your holiday savings.
Central Plaza [1] can be seen from most of Wan Chai. It is possible to tell the time by the changing lights on the top of this building. During business hours, you can take the lift from the ground floor to the sky lobby on the 46th floor to get a spectacular free view of the harbour and the island.
Another option for a free is view is from the observation lift in the Hopewell Centre at 183 Queen's Road East. This is one of the very few round towers found in the city. This glass lift can be taken from the 17th floor and the amazing journey to the 62nd floor takes about 90 seconds. Once at the top you have the option to eat at the revolving restaurant on top of the building, or you can just head back down again.
Across from the World Trade Center, near Causeway Bay, is the historic Noon Day Gun, deemed thus because it is fired every day at noon. To access the Noon Day Gun, enter the underground tunnel between the World Trade Center and the Excelsior Hotel and follow the signs. Finding this subway is difficult and you might need to ask staff for directions. The tradition of firing a gun into Victoria Harbour everyday at noon dates back to the 1860s. It is believed that this is the gun referred to in Noel Coward's song "Mad Dogs and Englishmen".
Victoria Park is located next to the busy Causeway Bay shopping streets. Take some time to walk through it or to watch people play football on three fields. There is also a jogging track through the park. Victoria Park can also be reached by MTR Exit B at Tin Hau station. During the summer months you can use the public open-air pool in Victoria Park. The pool costs $19 for adults ($9 kids) and payment can be made by coins or Octopus card.
Central Library feels a world apart from the hustle of Causeway Bay where it is located. Its grand post-modern facade overlooks Victoria Park and is a statement of how seriously Hong Kong people take education. Many universities across the world struggle to provide library facilities this good and visitors often leave suitably impressed. Lending services are provided to non-residents upon production of either a residents Hong Kong ID card, or a cash deposit. It is well stocked with Western periodicals, as well as free internet access. Major newspapers from all over the world are available. There are public computer terminals throughout all floors. The working tables with internet access for your laptop start on the fourth floor. Either you bring your own LAN cable or ask one of the librarians to lend you one. Do not forget to bring a power converter for the power plugs to charge your laptop (visitors from the United Kingdom can use UK plugs in Hong Kong). The library has a souvenir shop and a cafeteria which is operated by Delifrance.
The main department stores are in Causeway Bay (銅鑼灣). The biggest of these is Sogo. Nearby is the Times Square shopping mall.
Eating out in Wan Chai or Causeway Bay is a great idea, but expect to meet crowds of people doing the same. Both areas offer a bewildering range of places to eat to suit all budgets and interests. Generally, Causeway Bay is a bit more expensive than Wan Chai and attracts plenty of young trendies who may be seen eating into the small hours. Look out for specialist dessert cafes and remember to look-up to see what is on offer on higher floors where you can find cafes with balconies that enable you to get a more relaxed view of the crowded streets below. Wan Chai also has some great places to eat and it is generally a little easier to find a table than in Causeway Bay.
If you are travelling on a tight budget, then Wan Chai offers a great choice of places, with the added bonus that the neighbourhood has plenty of character and personality.
Wan Chai is home to one of the territories major nightspots. Leave Wan Chai MTR station at exit C, and you will find a wide choice of bars, clubs and places to eat. If you are offended by the sight of money girls on the pavement outside of certain bars, then don't go, but if you do go, they are unlikely to spoil your evening. For those who are looking for a party atmosphere in a place where 'east meets west', it would be shame to not include this area on your itinerary.
Happy Valley has a far snootier feel about it compared to nearby Wan Chai. If you are looking for a slower pace and want a quiet drink, Happy Valley has a few bars and coffee shops that might appeal if you are based in this area.
Causeway Bay is a great place for a night out, but there is no obvious bar area. Although this is the place to be if you are young and glamourous on a Saturday night, you maybe pushed to find a bar that sells a decent beer. Alternatively, why not go native, forget the alcohol and indulge in the hip cafe scene?
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